Check engine light at high RPMs

[darth47]

Hi guys,

I've been having some trouble since yesterday evening, I noticed that at high speeds or high RPMs, the MIL comes on. When I roll off the throttle, the light goes off.

I had replaced the battery and rectifier (with an R6 rectifier) on Monday as I was getting a 46 error code and the battery ran down on me over the weekend. This cleared the error code but now the MIL comes on at high RPMs.

I could do with some advice...

Thanks.

 

[Nelly]

Hi guys,

I've been having some trouble since yesterday evening, I noticed that at high speeds or high RPMs, the MIL comes on. When I roll off the throttle, the light goes off.

I had replaced the battery and rectifier (with an R6 rectifier) on Monday as I was getting a 46 error code and the battery ran down on me over the weekend. This cleared the error code but now the MIL comes on at high RPMs.

I could do with some advice...

Thanks.

What error codes are you getting now?

Nelly

 

[darth47]

No error codes, it starts normally but once you raise the RPMs to >4k, the MIL comes on, roll off the throttle and it goes off...

 

[Nelly]

Is the R6 rectifier compatible? If there was a charging issue I would expect there to be an error code.
It won't be long before someone more mechanically ept than I reads this post and helps you out.

Nelly

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Whats a "MIL" ?

 

[darth47]

Well it started the bike and cleared the code. Oh I forgot to mention, while changing the rectifier, the fuel pump assy was removed and the tank emptied and washed with gasoline to wash out the rust. The assy was put back and the fuel indicator gauge has been blinking since then. However the bike started and rode well for 2 days before this came up. I've ordered for a new FZ6 rectifier, should be getting it in 2 weeks.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Disregard, answered below..

 

[Nelly]

You have pulled a wire out off your fuel pump. Very easy to do when removing the tank. This does not throw an error code.
I have written thread about rectifying it.

Nelly

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[darth47]

It's a Malfunction Indicator Lamp or check engine light

 

[darth47]

You have pulled a wire out off your fuel pump. Very easy to do when removing the tank. This does not throw an error code.
I have written thread about rectifying it.

Nelly

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Ok, seems probable as those cables are quite short, Do I have to replace the fuel pump unit (approx $500 for a new one). I am searching for the thread you speak of.

Thanks.

 

[FinalImpact]

Do you have a hand held volt meter?
If so, you could gather some data. Idle, 2000, and 3000 RPM. By 2500 you should go from 12.8 to ~14.2vdc and hold steady at 14+ volts dc.

What would be good to know is setting the meter to AC VOLTS, do you register AC on the DC battery? As in, is the regulator working to rectify AC into DC? It may work at lower RPMs and then be naughty at higher RPMs throwing spikes on the DC bus and reeking havoc with the ECM.

Also, there is a another thread just like for the same reason. His cutoff is roughly 8000 RPM and the problem has yet to be resolved. However, like yours, his bike does not have the OEM RR. So, not that you have the same issue, but the circumstances have some similarities.

Next time I get out to my bike I'll do a test to see how much AC noise makes it through the RR so we have a baseline.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, seems probable as those cables are quite short, Do I have to replace the fuel pump unit (approx $500 for a new one). I am searching for the thread you speak of.

Thanks.

The below picture, with the red circle is the fuel gauge plug.

Simply lift the tank, support it and check the plugs to the pump. Specifically, that the wires aren't pulled out from the actual plug and the plug is fully seated.

Even of you ripped the wires out, it shouldn't have affect the fuel pump. Now, if you bust off the actual hose attachment fitting, that's new pump time...

(I believe thats what Neils referring to)

 

[darth47]

I have removed the tank this morning, cleaned the connectors with CRC spray, they both (fuel gauge & fuel pump connectors ) seem ok i.e. No pulled cables from the connectors. I put plugs back into the sockets firmly but still the problem persists. I can do without the gauge but the check engine light worries me, I wouldn't like to be stranded. I will park it till I get the OEM rectifier and replace it.


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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well it started the bike and cleared the code. Oh I forgot to mention, while changing the rectifier, the fuel pump assy was removed and the tank emptied and washed with gasoline to wash out the rust. The assy was put back and the fuel indicator gauge has been blinking since then. However the bike started and rode well for 2 days before this came up. I've ordered for a new FZ6 rectifier, should be getting it in 2 weeks.

Probably not related, but if you had the clean the tank out (for rust) there is a NON-replaceable filter inside the fuel pump. You can usually get a good park of the crap out.

I bring this up just in case the fuel filter is clogged, limiting fuel to the pump, pump overheating, etc, may have something to do with it (likely not, but cleaning/checking that filter won't hurt)

 

[darth47]

Do you have a hand held volt meter?

If so, you could gather some data. Idle, 2000, and 3000 RPM. By 2500 you should go from 12.8 to ~14.2vdc and hold steady at 14+ volts dc.



What would be good to know is setting the meter to AC VOLTS, do you register AC on the DC battery? As in, is the regulator working to rectify AC into DC? It may work at lower RPMs and then be naughty at higher RPMs throwing spikes on the DC bus and reeking havoc with the ECM.



Also, there is a another thread just like for the same reason. His cutoff is roughly 8000 RPM and the problem has yet to be resolved. However, like yours, his bike does not have the OEM RR. So, not that you have the same issue, but the circumstances have some similarities.



Next time I get out to my bike I'll do a test to see how much AC noise makes it through the RR so we have a baseline.

I don't have a multi meter but I can borrow one, where do I put the leads to check the output, the rectifier has 5 terminals, which do I connect it to?


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[darth47]

Probably not related, but if you had the clean the tank out (for rust) there is a NON-replaceable filter inside the fuel pump. You can usually get a good park of the crap out.



I bring this up just in case the fuel filter is clogged, limiting fuel to the pump, pump overheating, etc, may have something to do with it (likely not, but cleaning/checking that filter won't hurt)

Yeah, the pump assy was cleaned when the tank was removed for cleaning. When the tech saw rust in the tank he decided to clean the pump in case some rust got in there, and that's when my fuel gauge started blinking but that was all.


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[FinalImpact]

I don't have a multi meter but I can borrow one, where do I put the leads to check the output, the rectifier has 5 terminals, which do I connect it to?


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You can do either the battery or the rectifier. I would opt for the rectifier and use the RED and BLACK. Ignore the white wires as those are straight from the stator windings.

Gather info in DC volts for idle and step up to 2000 and 3000, and then the problem area(s) >4000 RPMs.

Set meter to AC volts and repeat the same RPM ranges.

FWIW:

/return..... Blah

Some empirical data from a USD 08, with Dual headlight mod and original battery. At the time of this testing, the bike was sitting for 3 months, I don't use a trickle, just park it with a full charge and leave it be. No starting unless I intend to ride it.

As found: 12.90V (the same as last year after sitting for 4 months vs 3)
Charge cuts in just over 2350 RPM @14.26V
1300 RPM - 12.10V w/dual headlights (after 10 minutes of idle 210°F w/fan on)
2500 RPM - 14.25V fan on
2500 RPM - 14.30V fan off
1300 RPM - 12.82V fan off (after 10 min idle)

From this I see the battery loosing ground at idle pretty quickly thus its running on reserve capacity with dual head lights and fan on.

Please note: a healthy fully charged battery IS NOT 12.0 Volts - its 12.75 to 12.95V depending on its temperature.

 

[darth47]

I'll try it out as soon as I get my hands on a meter.


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[Nelly]

Ok, seems probable as those cables are quite short, Do I have to replace the fuel pump unit (approx $500 for a new one). I am searching for the thread you speak of.

Thanks.

No I manage to re-crimp mine with a small engineers screwdriver by looking down the back of the plug.

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[Nelly]

The below picture, with the red circle is the fuel gauge plug.

Simply lift the tank, support it and check the plugs to the pump. Specifically, that the wires aren't pulled out from the actual plug and the plug is fully seated.

Even of you ripped the wires out, it shouldn't have affect the fuel pump. Now, if you bust off the actual hose attachment fitting, that's new pump time...

(I believe thats what Neils referring to)

Scott my wires came lose from the white plug. Worth checking both.

Nelly

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