Cheap levers -- is this typical?

[Carlos840]

So... Is there a trick to getting the clutch to disengage properly? I installed the new lever and cannot pull the clutch in and freely roll the bike back and forth. I can feel the the clutch sticking while rolling the bike back and forth.

Here's the clutch lever installed...

View attachment 55564

In the process of removing the original lever, I did manage to tear up this little plastic piece -- is this part critical to installation? The little plastic clutch cable end piece?

View attachment 55565

Final question -- is this sufficient to lubricate the lever?

View attachment 55566

Maybe you have tightened it to much?

There is no need to tighten the pivot like a mentalist, if you do so, you will squeeze it so much that the lever will barely move.

I don't think that the little plastic bit is essential.

WD40 will give you a mixed bag of answers, it's not really a good lubricant. It might work to lube the cables, but for the pivot points etc you should use white lithium grease.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

Try adjusting the cable before you lube anything. For me, it was a direct swap from the old levers to the new ones, but you may need to adjust the clutch cable to engage and disengage correctly.

As far as I know, there are two adjusters (by the lever, and under the tank). Try the one by the lever first, obviously.

I let the cable in and out as much as possible at the handlebar. Sat on the bike and rolled it back and forth at all points to see if the clutch was fully disengaged. No joy. I'm getting a distinct bump like the clutch is still engaged / in first gear.

I'll have to try this again tonight from under the tank. Am I really going to get that much adjustment to fix this though from he tank adjustment? Seems like under there you're grasping at small adjustments.

Oh great -- I can't get the collar for the lever out to put the old lever back on to go to work...

View attachment 55567

 

[nthdegreeburns]

Maybe you have tightened it to much?



There is no need to tighten the pivot like a mentalist, if you do so, you will squeeze it so much that the lever will barely move.



I don't think that the little plastic bit is essential.



WD40 will give you a mixed bag of answers, it's not really a good lubricant. It might work to lube the cables, but for the pivot points etc you should use white lithium grease.

Thx. That WD-40 is lithium grease specialty lubricant. I was worried about using it. I can't tell which tub or tube of grease it pure white lithium grease at AutoZone or NAPA.

If / when I figure this issue out with the collar, I'll visit Advanced Auto Parts and see what they have.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

Maybe you have tightened it to much?



There is no need to tighten the pivot like a mentalist, if you do so, you will squeeze it so much that the lever will barely move.



I don't think that the little plastic bit is essential.



WD40 will give you a mixed bag of answers, it's not really a good lubricant. It might work to lube the cables, but for the pivot points etc you should use white lithium grease.

Oh -- checked the parts fiche too for that little plastic piece around the end of the clutch cable. Unless it's a part of the clutch cable part itself, it can't be bought on its own. I shall chuck it if I ever am able to use these levers...

 

[FinalImpact]

* WD dissolves most greases so its OK for freeing things up, but it has no lasting properties to stay where you put it. Use engine oil.

*The bushing needs to be free in the lever[/B]. And it **SHOULD BE** the same height or taller than the levers thickness. If its completely flush or lower than the levers thickness, its going to bind as soon as tension is applied to the bolt/nut assembly.

*On mine the OEM bushing is Stainless Steel. Above it looks to be brass. Mine can be tightened to nearly any torque value and HAS NO IMPACT on lever operation as the BUSHING IS TALLER than the lever. This seems NORMAL and the way it should be. Its nearly difficult to get the busing into the perch. But at the right angle it slides in. It needs light grease.

*Although it may work without the plastic filler its adding a good bit of free play you don't need. So its making your problem worse.

*Adjust the aluminum thumb wheel threading it AWAY from the lever. Get it out there so maybe only 3 threads remain holding it in position. Set the LEVERS adjuster for MAX pull so the LEVER is as FAW AWAY from the grip as possible. Now confirm the clutch will completely disengage.

 

[Carlos840]

I let the cable in and out as much as possible at the handlebar. Sat on the bike and rolled it back and forth at all points to see if the clutch was fully disengaged. No joy. I'm getting a distinct bump like the clutch is still engaged / in first gear.

I'll have to try this again tonight from under the tank. Am I really going to get that much adjustment to fix this though from he tank adjustment? Seems like under there you're grasping at small adjustments.

Oh great -- I can't get the collar for the lever out to put the old lever back on to go to work...

View attachment 55567

A trick to remove the bushing is to use a small socket.

Just put the lever over a surface with a hole (i have a hole on my work bench) find a socket that is the same diameter as the bushing and use it to hammer it out.

Mine needed to be hammered in and out.

 

[ChanceCoats123]

A trick to remove the bushing is to use a small socket.

Just put the lever over a surface with a hole (i have a hole on my work bench) find a socket that is the same diameter as the bushing and use it to hammer it out.

Mine needed to be hammered in and out.

That's what I did as well. I put the stock lever in a vise and it worked just as well. My old bushing did NOT need to be pressed into the new lever though. It was actually loose (which is fine since a minimal amount of grease is needed to keep them free).

 

[FinalImpact]

That's interesting several here had to Push the bushing out forcefully. It should push in/out of the lever with light finger pressure. It should also freely rotate in the lever.

When the bolt is tightened - the bushing also prevents the housing from collapsing on the lever and causing it to bind.

Remove any small burrs using some fine emery cloth.

 

[ErikNYC]

My old bushing did NOT need to be pressed into the new lever though. It was actually loose (which is fine since a minimal amount of grease is needed to keep them free).

Same here, mines came right out.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

* WD dissolves most greases so its OK for freeing things up, but it has no lasting properties to stay where you put it. Use engine oil.

So I've been to 2-3 places looking for white lithium grease (per the manual), and I see everything but. Now engine oil. I can haz a confused.

Most of what I see at AutoZone and Advanced Auto Parts is tubes of high temp grease. That can of WD-40 White Lithium Grease Spray was the closest I found (White Lithium Grease Spray & Lubricant | WD-40 Specialist).

*The bushing needs to be free in the lever. And it **SHOULD BE** the same height or taller than the levers thickness. If its completely flush or lower than the levers thickness, its going to bind as soon as tension is applied to the bolt/nut assembly.

The bushing was free and removable in the OEM lever, but it was tight and got stuck in the Chinese lever about 2/3 of the way in. I finished the job by pushing it in with some pliers, and now I'll be tapping it out using other suggestions here to remove it. It does NOT spin freely in the Chinese lever.

*On mine the OEM bushing is Stainless Steel. Above it looks to be brass.

The 2nd Chinese lever had no brass bushing. The 1st Chinese lever had the weird brass bushing included in the clutch.

*Although it may work without the plastic filler its adding a good bit of free play you don't need. So its making your problem worse.

RonAyers.com fiche / Yamaha parts fiche doesn't show a part to replace that little plastic filler. Is it part of a new clutch cable?

*Adjust the aluminum thumb wheel threading it AWAY from the lever. Get it out there so maybe only 3 threads remain holding it in position. Set the LEVERS adjuster for MAX pull so the LEVER is as FAW AWAY from the grip as possible. Now confirm the clutch will completely disengage.

If the bushing needs to be free in the lever, I'll probably just focus on removing it from the 2nd Chinese lever and getting the OEM lever installed. I don't have a grinding tool to loosen it up enough to spin freely, I don't think.

nthdegreeburns

P.S. - Not sure if any Chinese readers here -- no offense intended with the Chinese lever references. Thought about it after I realized I'd said that about 10 times in this post.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

A trick to remove the bushing is to use a small socket.

Just put the lever over a surface with a hole (i have a hole on my work bench) find a socket that is the same diameter as the bushing and use it to hammer it out.

Mine needed to be hammered in and out.

I tried needle nose pliers and a screwdriver larger than the bushing. No joy.

I've left the bushing soaking in Penetrating Catalyst spray to see if it loosens up. If the bushing doesn't come out, I'll order 2-3 spares to have so I can at least get the factory lever re-attached.

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Try using the brass bushing that came with the second set of levers to try and tap that oem bushing out. I believe that's how I got my oem bushing out of my oem clutch lever. If you've got a vise, it'll make things way easier.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

Try using the brass bushing that came with the second set of levers to try and tap that oem bushing out. I believe that's how I got my oem bushing out of my oem clutch lever. If you've got a vise, it'll make things way easier.

Loosened up the OEM bushing and get it free with needle nose pliers.

Uncertain if it's worth toying with this second set of Chinese levers of the bushing fit is so bad. The OEM over was much looser.

I'm at least returning the first set tot the eBay retailer.