Change the spark plug

[reiobard]

just keep an eye on the brakes and when they get thin replace them, just be aware that i always have the inside hard to see pads get thin faster then the outside ones that are easy to see.

Technically there should be a wear bar in the pads just like tires that you can go by too.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

I too have a bit over 14,000 with the OEM plugs and the bike is running flawlessly.[/QUOTE

Thanks for the 14,000 mile update guys. After Wrightme43's plugs went sour at 8000 miles, at 9000, I was wondering how much spark I had left on mine.

 

[DefyInertia]

like rich said, if spark plugs are important, i would think that we should check them atleast every 6 months. I try to change the oil every month, as far as the plugs i will start doing them or looking at them every 6 months. Another question is how often do you do the brakes?

You change your oil every month regardless of miles???

The brake pads have wear indicators so change them when they wear out or you want to upgrade. The time/miles it take to wear them out will depend on the type of riding you do. When touring and sportriding out in the twisties I barely use my brakes at all but cover a ton of miles...on the track they get a lot of use with only 150 to 250 miles in a day.

On the street, I would estimate they last 5,000 to 15,000 miles.
________
Park Royal 2 Condo

 

[opds9091]

yep, i change the oil every month, even when i owned my cars i always did it that way. Now with the bike, i am doing on average 2000miles a month, besides 3 qts of oil and a filter costs about $30 if that.

 

[opds9091]

ok i just downloaded the man's and i cant believe it was right under my nose this whole time, so i know what i am doing this weekend thanks all, and here comes the little icon:rtfm::rtfm::rtfm: lol at myself:thumbup:

 

[steveindenmark]

You change the plugs from the brake side of the bike and removing the tank or airbox will not help you.

I have just done mine.

Steve

 

[xeres]

guys, trying to replace my plugs right now and what a ******* position theyre in. Ive loosened off the radiator bolts so's i got beter access but i cant wrk out the plugs. How the hell do i get the covering off? someone guide me thru this pls...

X

 

[steveindenmark]

I managed to change all the plugs by removing just the left hand radiator hose. It was a bit tight but not that hard.

Most of the work is done from the handbrake side.

Steve

 

[Fred]

I'll add two things to this thread, then I'll shut up.

1. Even if you don't change the plugs often, it's not a bad idea to occasionally loosen them up and retighten them. Why? Steel spark plugs in an aluminum head, with a current flowing between them, equals electrolysis. In other words, the plugs can bind to the head and when you unscrew them, the plugs stay intact while the softer aluminum threads in the head are stripped out.

A good copper based anti-sieze will prevent this.

2. Blowing out the plug holes is a neccessary thing to do. You'll be amazed how much trash gets down in there. But do it one better. Blow out the holes. Loosen all the plugs one turn, and then blow them out again. Some grit can get jammed between the plug body and the head and won't get blown out the first time. Loosening the plugs and blowing again should get it all out.

Fred

 

[Rich]

guys, trying to replace my plugs right now and what a ******* position theyre in. Ive loosened off the radiator bolts so's i got beter access but i cant wrk out the plugs. How the hell do i get the covering off? someone guide me thru this pls...

X

It's been a while, but I think you have do do more than loosen the bolts, you need to remove the lower mounting so the radiator will pull ahead. Like I mentioned earlier, pull the radiator as far ahead as it can get, and block it there with something like a piece of wood cut the right length. It will help you out a lot. It's still a pain, but it's very doable if you approach it from this angle.

Or did you get it done already?

 

[Nobby]

guys, trying to replace my plugs right now and what a ******* position theyre in. Ive loosened off the radiator bolts so's i got beter access but i cant wrk out the plugs. How the hell do i get the covering off? someone guide me thru this pls...

X

Blow some compressed air through the hole in the side of the cylinder

 

[Rich]

From the manual:

1. Remove: radiator lower bolt and radiator lower hose bracket bolt

2. Remove: spark plug caps

3. Remove plugs:

Right side #1 and #2 and #3
Left side #4

CAUTION:
Before removing the spark plugs, blow away any dirt accumulated in the park plug wells with compressed air to prevent it from falling into the cylinders.

 

[xeres]

holy crap that was a headache. Thank god i play lacrosse and have strong wrists and fingers cos they're are job to pull out and position. Ended up having to hang the radiator completely to get the last plug out but once you've done it one, it'll be 10x faster next time.

Just to note, i installed Iridium plugs cos i managed to get them cheaper (believe it or not) than the standard. Will post up on if they make any difference whatsoever.

Note of thanks to this guy from SBN, this article is a comprehensive lifesaver on the job.

How to: Replace your sparkplugs in 20 minutes - Sportbikes.net

X

 

[headache56]

Nelly,

I have also checked the circa 500 page manual whcih makes no mention of removing the airbox and radiator. I wonder if of one should kind of twist the radiator a bit (having disconnected the bracket/s) then use a special shallow thoated spark plug spanner to remove the spark plugs. Any ideas please ? In the absnce I will try and remove the rad and airbox.


Regards
Kevin / Headache56

Hi mate,
I beleive that you need to remove tank, and air box to get to plugs. I have also searched the manual and it has no mention. Have you checked the technical section on this site? There are PDF service manuals in there. Its on page 4 or 5 I think.

Failing that Sportsrider and wrightme do there own servicing and they could help you.

Neil

 

[headache56]

Fantastic, thanks

 

[CooperFZ6]

It's not easy, but, I got them changed today. #1 is a pain. The other 3, not so bad. You do have to get the radiator loosened and tipped back a bit.

I'm not sure I want to do this every fall (I was winterizing the bike and wanted to put some fogging oil in the cyclinders). We'll see how I feel next year, albeit having done this once, I think I could do it much faster the next time around.

Anyway, here's a pic of the ones I took out. I think they look ok, may be I'm running a little rich since they seem to be more black then brown, but, the bike seemed to run fine before I put it away. Any comments?

 

[Jedi]

They look a little rich, when did you last change or clean your air filter?

 

[CooperFZ6]

I'm thinking the same thing. I just got the bike used in September checked the oil and coolant etc. then went riding. I don't know how long these plugs were in, but, they don't look eroded or anything like that. Also, the bike ran fine the last time I went riding, so, if it is rich, it can't be too far off optimal (I hope).

As I'm still getting familiar with the bike, I'm taking it slow in terms of what maintenance I'm doing. I got the battery out last night and saw the air box staring me in the face, but, I didn't jump into it yet. I'll be pulling the old air filter out soon and putting the new one in. In the spring, after riding a bit, I'll pull plug # 4 and take a look and see what I've got.

Also, I put Stabil in a little early, and ended up running a tank of gas through with the stuff in it. I think the Stabil contributes to plug fouling, so, that might explain the colour too. I'm also thinking may be my photography skills make them look worse then they actually are!

 

[VEGASRIDER]

So after 20,800 miles, I decided to change my plugs. Bike was still starting and running fine, no issues at all. I know the recommended mileage for spark plug change is 8,000 miles, but I stretched it out. I replaced them with the Iridum plugs.

 

[sideshow_downs]

Those plugs look nice and worn. I bet it runs better now with the new ones