Cam Chain Tensioner info

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Found this on an FJR forum I frequent. :thumbup:

Some very intersting reading as the CCT is the same set up as the FZ. Some really good tips/pictures of how easy it is to have your engine SKIP A TOOTH at the cranskshaft doing basic manitainance.

Securring the chain, especially when doing a CCT tensioner swap, is almost a must to prevent potential problems:

Intake Pressure Sensor reading low. - Technical Discussions - FJRForum (post #7 specifically)

 

[Water Bear]

I'm not ready to do eg. a valve clearance check yet, but if / when I do I want to understand what I just read.

When he slacked the cam timing chain, the chain skipped a tooth at the crank. I assume that in the second picture, the three closely spaced notches are supposed to have the middle one pointing down, not the rightward one straight down. IIRC the cam gears have notches on the sides so you can be sure they're both set correctly.

Is that correct?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm not ready to do eg. a valve clearance check yet, but if / when I do I want to understand what I just read.

When he slacked the cam timing chain, the chain skipped a tooth at the crank. I assume that in the second picture, the three closely spaced notches are supposed to have the middle one pointing down, not the rightward one straight down. IIRC the cam gears have notches on the sides so you can be sure they're both set correctly.

Is that correct?

Yes, the cam gears have marks on them as does the FZ6 ignition trigger(the star shaped doo-see the below picture of an FZ6 trigger)

Should you have to pull a cam or its off for some reason, the cams should be set dead even with the head surface, chain SLOP MUST be taken up on the FRONT RUN. Then onto the crank which the marks are lined up. The CCT would then be installed, re-check marks and you should be good.


Here's also a link for more in depth checking:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/47593-valve-clearance-check.html

(Picture is from the above link)

 

[Water Bear]

So in your picture, you mean the horizontal line marked "T" should be dead horizontal with the line in the engine case?

Edit: Also what is the front run?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So in your picture, you mean the horizontal line marked "T" should be dead horizontal with the line in the engine case?

Edit: Also what is the front run?

Yes, the mark should be lined up with the mark on the block at TDC, Top Dead Center, (both cam lobes for cylinder #1, left cylinder as you sit on the bike, face AWAY FROM EACH OTHER) on the compression stroke(see page 5-10 in the 07-09 Yamaha shop manual).

Re the front run. The chain is continuous. When the chain is horizontal across the two cams, that's the top run (should be taught when re-assembling and checking marks).

The front run is simply that, the chain runs between the front exhaust cam and the crankshaft (towards the front of the bike, (which also MUST BE TAUGHT when aligning marks).

Any slop in the chain is taken up with the cam chain tensioner in the rear, or "rear run"

 

[Water Bear]

Cool, thanks! Really detailed explanation.

Can I PM you about engine stuff if I get stuck in the future? It would be good to have the ear of someone with approximately as much skill as enthusiasm, unlike myself.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Cool, thanks! Really detailed explanation.

Can I PM you about engine stuff if I get stuck in the future? It would be good to have the ear of someone with approximately as much skill as enthusiasm, unlike myself.

Your very welcome and no problem re any PM's... :thumbup:

 

[Water Bear]

Totally awesome. I'm a little short for words, don't really know how to thank you enough!

 

[regder]

When I did my CCT, I took off the chain cover and jammed a socket between the back chain guide and engine block wall to take up slack.

Seemed to work fine. Good thing I didn't forget the socket in there, which I almost did.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The FJR chain is a bit longer so its more likely to be an issue than the FZ6.

What works well is just taking a plastic zip tie and zip tie the rear chain run and front chain run together snug, do the CCT swap, release the CCT to extend, then cut and remove the zip tie. Easy peasy! :thumbup: