Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Install

[Khurley424]

Hello! After quite a bit of searching I noticed that we don't have a single definitive thread to illustrate how to change the tensioner/install a manual cam chain tensioner. I'd like to help make a guide to help others get through this, but the problem is I'm not 100% sure what I'm doing myself, and understand how critical this tensioner is to the engine's well being.

The first thing I want to ask about is making sure the engine is at top dead center as so that there is not any tension on the cam chain via the valve springs. Earlier today I removed the side cover to have a look, and I attached what that looks like in a picture. I see the T mark on the gold disc, but am confused as to what exactly that needs to be lined up with to find top dead center?

Secondly, do you need some kind of specialty Allen wrench to remove the timing chain tensioner? To my knowledge to take it out it is just the 2 5mm Allen bolts on either side of it, but the inside one is a bit burried. Ill attach another shot of that.

Finally, setting the proper tension. From what I read, one is supposed to have it backed all the way out as it is installed. Then you tighten the tensioner until you feel it make contact with the chain. Then you slowly roll the crank forward as you tighten the cct until you feel resistance, at which point you back the cct out 1/4 turn. Is this correct?

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[FinalImpact]

There is a thread on here somewhere although it wasn't concise in nature as a step by step. IMO - no need to pull the cover, place it at TDC, or do anything more than evenly unbolt the old one and prepare for install. With these exceptions which MOST will find to be overkill if you've done a couple. Thus I am writing this with the idea that MOST HAVE NEVER DONE IT BEFORE. If this is your first, read on and lets not make a mistake. If you have experience and know how the correct tension "feels", throw the CCT in, adjust it and ride.

Step one: Take NOTE OF IDLE SPEED - both COLD and WARM.

BEFORE UNBOLTING OLD CCT:
* Remover the Spark plugs
* Remove cap exposing crank bolt and turn the engine by hand. Trans in "N", rear tire off the ground if possible.
* Feel how much tension it takes to turn the engine by hand.
* Additionally - you can pull the ignition fuse and run it with the starter. Listen to how it sounds.

REMOVE THE OLD CCT:
* EVENLY back out the bolts.
** DO NOT turn the engine while the CCT is out! **
* Back out the adjuster on the NEW manual CCT.
* Clean the surfaces and install new CCT with a new gasket. Torque the TWO bolts to spec.
- The tedious part is setting the proper tension. I'd recommend you follow the manufactures suggestion with these caveats:
** Confirm your OLD CCT IS NOT COMPLETELY COLLAPSED! The manual says to apply pressure to the plunger, screw it in (CW) until it stops. Once bottomed, let pressure off and it should smoothly and evenly extend. If it does not, its defective and was likely very loose and making noise. If it pops out, you should be fine.

ONCE NEW CCT IS INSTALLED & adjusted to Manf spec:
* did you feel the tension when the bolt made contact with the chain guide?
- - - If yes, and you backed it out to spec, you should be close to correct tension.
- - - If you DID NOT feel it contact the chain guide, TRY AGAIN by backing it out and using a shorter ratchet to "Feel the tension". Back out according to spec.
* When you think its set correct, proceed. No hurry here. Try a few times.
* Confirm the engine rotates as freely as it did before by turning it by hand at least 720 degrees of rotation. It SHOULD NOT bind up!
* Run it with the starter. Listen to how it sounds. Does it sound the same?
* Install plugs, confirm wires are snug in the caps, install ignition fuse.
* Run engine taking note of the following:
- Noise - it should be quite
- RPM should be the same as it was before
- Rev it. It should rev freely and NOT stop quickly! If it doesn't and the idle is lower than it was, you likely have it adjusted TOO TIGHT creating wear and drag eating the chain guides. Turn it off and loosen it.
- If its noisy in the chain area but revs freely, it may be too loose. Turn it off an tighten it.

Bottom line - its a chain not a piano string. It need not be stretched tight by the guides. A little loose is OK.
DO NOT Adjust your RPMs / IDLE UP, to correct it if the idle dropped. Loosen the adjuster a 1/4 to 3/8 of turn at time until it idles at the SAME RPM it was and is mostly quiet. Its going to make some noise.

That's about it.

EDIT: I see different manufactures call out different ways. Some have you pull it apart and measure guide movement. Some do it while engine is running, and others do it by turns from point of contact. Treat this as a guide. Just don't make it too tight.

JJD952 - Valve Adjust Manual

 

[aclayonb]

I want to get one of these. I've heard that the stock tensioners tend to fail. Plus, it reminds me of the old days when you actually had to do REAL maintenance every time you rode....without all the maintenance.

 

[FinalImpact]

One thing I didn't say. If too tight, the guides wear and you adjust often until the guides are destroyed. If set right, the chain has some freedom, and the guides wear very little. Make sense?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Being you already have the side cover off, the guys on the FJR forum (same set up, just a longer chain) put a zip tie around the front and rear runs of the chain before pulling the original tensioner. This gaurantees no chain skipping from a tooth.

Approx 98% of time, as noted above, the cover doesn't have to come off. If its a really loose chain, worn guides, high mileage, IMHO, I'd pull the cover and zip tie.

The "T" should line up (for TDC) with a mark on the actual, flat, gasket surface on the block (about 9:00). Clean the block gasket surface real well, you'll see it..

The link(instructions) and video, (at least for the R1), show it being changed at TDC and pulling the side cover.

Good luck and please post the condition of the original tensioner (smoothness, etc)


http://www.aperaceparts.com/tech/tensioners.html


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpc_Ow5gWis"]2009 Yamaha R1 Cam Chain Tensioner - YouTube[/ame]

 

[FinalImpact]

Being you already have the side cover off, the guys on the FJR forum (same set up, just a longer chain) put a zip tie around the front and rear runs of the chain before pulling the original tensioner. This gaurantees no chain skipping from a tooth.

Approx 98% of time, as noted above, the cover doesn't have to come off. If its a really loose chain, worn guides, high mileage, IMHO, I'd pull the cover and zip tie.

The "T" should line up (for TDC) with a mark on the actual, flat, gasket surface on the block (about 9:00). Clean the block gasket surface real well, you'll see it..

The link(instructions) and video, (at least for the R1), show it being changed at TDC and pulling the side cover.

Good luck and please post the condition of the original tensioner (smoothness, etc)


APE Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Installation


2009 Yamaha R1 Cam Chain Tensioner - YouTube

FWIW: putting it at TDC is of no value unless you're actually going to index the cams which would also require the valve cover to come off. Please note that in that video, there is 50/50 chance its actually on the compression stroke, so WITHOUT removing the valve cover or inserting a compression gauge to know the #1 cylinder is building compression, nothing has been gained. If this were a SINGLE cylinder engine, the cam position "could" reduce load on the cam chain by having all valves closed on compression stroke but its NOT. Therefor its moot point as the cam chain will likely have some kind of rotational tension applied by the valves/springs trying to rotate one direction or the other. The point being we don't want slack on the pulling side of the chain.

Chains only pull, never push, so in the ideal world when adjusting the guide tension, the chain on the pulling side (away from the adjuster) has ZERO SLACK, and the user is feeling the CCT take out the slack on the adjuster side. However, the cam having valves and springs trying to force it the opposite direction of rotation means there may in fact be some slack on the "pulling side" of the chain.

For a visual reference, watch the drive chain on your bike when its left in gear and you attempt to roll it backwards. The top side of chain goes slack. This is where "feeling" the proper tension on the CCT is critical. Did you take the slack out of the "PULLING SIDE" of the chain?? If not, it may be too loose.

Just saying - don't believe everything you see. Also it looks like the R1 shown may also use oil pressure to control guide tension as it has an oil feed port.

Thanks for sharing Scott.

Edit: from Scott's link: To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts (guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt out 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut.

DOING THIS action, (rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in) takes the slack out of the chain on the pulling side (VERY IMPORTANT)! Also, hindsight says that Cyl #1 and #4 are always applying the same roatational load to the cam gears as they are fixed firing 1 revolution apart (FZ6) - i.e. one or the other is firing. So that is there logic in putting it at TDC.

 

[oldfast007]

Been pondering doing this myself in the off season, however after reading about this, I will be bringing it to a qualified wrench, seems way too much can go wrong..I don't think it's something to try unless you have very good engine knowledge and skills. Good luck to those who give it a go.

GS3

 

[Motogiro]

The 09 R1 is using oil pressure. There were a few failures on the R1 engines and some controversy with a recall. The part number changed for the CCT and owners felt there was a problem that Yamaha was denying.

In the video the sequence is to set the crank at a TDC. That's on the 09 R1 engine which is not the typical I4 because it's a crossplane crank. You'll have firing orders 90 deg from each other.

I know people say you don't have to find a TDC, 180 Deg. or otherwise when doing this on the standard I4 but would it be less rotating pressure from cam lobes at TDC than there would be at just any other crank rotation? Also if somehow things got loose enough and you did hop a tooth would you be closer to getting the marks back in sync regardless of whether you were TDC or 180 out TDC?

We had a member here in San Diego that was doing the CCT change on his FZ6 and he didn't set the crank to TDC. The cam jumped a tooth. He contacted me after he tried to get it back where he thought TDC should be but he didn't pull the cams and you can guess what happened. Even though it wasn't a catastrophic engine failure it wasn't an economically feasible repair unless he did all the work himself.

Also I want to thank Scott and Randy for always spending so much energy helping out with the mechanicals! You guys rock! :rockon:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

FWIW: putting it at TDC is of no value unless you're actually going to index the cams which would also require the valve cover to come off. Please note that in that video, there is 50/50 chance its actually on the compression stroke, so WITHOUT removing the valve cover or inserting a compression gauge to know the #1 cylinder is building compression, nothing has been gained. If this were a SINGLE cylinder engine, the cam position "could" reduce load on the cam chain by having all valves closed on compression stroke but its NOT. Therefor its moot point as the cam chain will likely have some kind of rotational tension applied by the valves/springs trying to rotate one direction or the other. The point being we don't want slack on the pulling side of the chain.

Chains only pull, never push, so in the ideal world when adjusting the guide tension, the chain on the pulling side (away from the adjuster) has ZERO SLACK, and the user is feeling the CCT take out the slack on the adjuster side. However, the cam having valves and springs trying to force it the opposite direction of rotation means there may in fact be some slack on the "pulling side" of the chain.

For a visual reference, watch the drive chain on your bike when its left in gear and you attempt to roll it backwards. The top side of chain goes slack. This is where "feeling" the proper tension on the CCT is critical. Did you take the slack out of the "PULLING SIDE" of the chain?? If not, it may be too loose.

Just saying - don't believe everything you see. Also it looks like the R1 shown may also use oil pressure to control guide tension as it has an oil feed port.

Thanks for sharing Scott.

Edit: from Scott's link: To set the tensioner adjustment, rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in. When you feel the engine tensioner parts (guide, rollers, etc.) make contact with the moving cam chain, back the tensioner bolt out 1/4 turn and tighten the jam nut.

DOING THIS action, (rotate the engine forward while screwing the tensioner bolt in) takes the slack out of the chain on the pulling side! And hindsight says that Cyl #1 and #4 are always timed via cams 1 revolution apart - i.e. one or the other is firing. So that is there logic in putting it at TDC.

If you wanted TDC on #1, as you stated, a compression gauge would gaurentee your there without pulling a valve cover.

As stated earlier, a fool proof way to install it, pull the side cover, put a zip tie around both sides of the chain showing and zip it tight. Nothing will jump or move at this point...

Swap the tensioner, snug the adjuster down, cut the zip tie and adjust per the manufacturer.

It should be noted that at least 90% of the FJR's (the FJR has had MANY MORE failures than the FZ probably due to the long chain) that had an APE CCT installed didn't pull the cover nor zip tie or find TDC when installing the APE.

I stongly suspect, if you brought the bike to the shop to have it installed, they'd pull the stocker, and put in the APE without pulling anything...

Installation is NOT big deal, getting it adjusted just right and keeping after it would be a bigger chore...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The 09 R1 is using oil pressure. There were a few failures on the R1 engines and some controversy with a recall. The part number changed for the CCT and owners felt there was a problem that Yamaha was denying.

In the video the sequence is to set the crank at a TDC. That's on the 09 R1 engine which is not the typical I4 because it's a crossplane crank. You'll have firing orders 90 deg from each other.

I know people say you don't have to find a TDC, 180 Deg. or otherwise when doing this on the standard I4 but would it be less rotating pressure from cam lobes at TDC than there would be at just any other crank rotation? Also if somehow things got loose enough and you did hop a tooth would you be closer to getting the marks back in sync regardless of whether you were TDC or 180 out TDC?

We had a member here in San Diego that was doing the CCT change on his FZ6 and he didn't set the crank to TDC. The cam jumped a tooth. He contacted me after he tried to get it back where he thought TDC should be but he didn't pull the cams and you can guess what happened. Even though it wasn't a catastrophic engine failure it wasn't an economically feasible repair unless he did all the work himself.

Also I want to thank Scott and Randy for always spending so much energy helping out with the mechanicals! You guys rock! :rockon:

Thanks Cliff,

Certain BMW's use oil pressure as well for their CCT. They sometimes had issues upon start up when there was NO / little oil pressure to tighten the cam chain. BMW's fix was to put a new guide in the block when the side cover was off (NOT COVERED under warranty). I know the FJR will run like crap, but run, one tooth off. I suspect, the FZ will also run crappy without any damage. A completly failed stock, CCT, in at least two cases on the FJR forum, resulted in two destroyed engines.

IMHO, its probably not a bad idea to pull the side cover just to at least visually inspect the guides and inspect for ANY chain/block/pick up sensor contact from a loose /worn chain, CCT, etc...

Please guys, don't ignore new noises, especially from the right side...

 

[FinalImpact]

I swear I'm done after this post! lol

Here is some perspective giving DESIRED and UNDESIRED chain tension during CCT install. The engine shown here turns Clockwise like our FZ. From this, the right side (Near straight section) is being pulled tight while the rearward section of chain after the CRANK with the huge curve in it where the CCT takes up slack. In the first picture the chain is tight from the most rearward cam all the way to the crank. In this position the CCT can be adjusted for proper tension.

DESIRED TENSION:

In the bottom picture you can see a large mount of slack on both sides of the crank. If you were to simply tighten the slack at the CCT and NOT take up the slack on the Pulling side of the crank ((NOTICE GAP between guide and chain) - AND YOU STARTED YOUR engine, the chain would likely be loose enough to jump teeth, skip timing, and cause damage by allowing the pistons to hit the valves. By rotating the engine in direction of rotation it will pull the chain tight allowing CCT to be manually adjusted.

EXTREME EXAMPLE (UNDESIRED) :

PS - engine is a Ford Durtec 3.0L V6 from a Mazda 6 2003 - 20011

 

[Marthy]

Been thru the motion few time on the 6R. Pulling the side cover off is the safest way, TDC or not. I use a screw driver behind the guide to keep the tension on the chain and change the tensioner, be gentle! I didn't mention a pry bar! LOL

With the screw driver still in place I crank the engine for a bit until it build oil psi in the tensioner and the chain is tight. It's a 15 minutes job max with the right tools. You could always have someone help out holding the tension for you.

I change my tensioner 2-3 months ago and still a bit noisy for 2-3 sec when I first start the bike. Not sure if it's because I use 5W40? I'll go back to 20W50 next time to see if it change anything. I need to check my valves this week anyway... I'll investigate a bit more what's going on. If everything seems normal I might try the manual tensioner this time.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I swear I'm done after this post! lol

Here is some perspective giving DESIRED and UNDESIRED chain tension during CCT install. The engine shown here turns Clockwise like our FZ. From this, the right side (Near straight section) is being pulled tight while the rearward section of chain after the CRANK with the huge curve in it where the CCT takes up slack. In the first picture the chain is tight from the most rearward cam all the way to the crank. In this position the CCT can be adjusted for proper tension.

DESIRED TENSION:

In the bottom picture you can see a large mount of slack on both sides of the crank. If you were to simply tighten the slack at the CCT and NOT take up the slack on the Pulling side of the crank ((NOTICE GAP between guide and chain) - AND YOU STARTED YOUR engine, the chain would likely be loose enough to jump teeth, skip timing, and cause damage by allowing the pistons to hit the valves. By rotating the engine in direction of rotation it will pull the chain tight allowing CCT to be manually adjusted.

EXTREME EXAMPLE (UNDESIRED) :

PS - engine is a Ford Durtec 3.0L V6 from a Mazda 6 2003 - 20011

Agreed, the engine should be cranked by hand forward taking the slack out of the chain at the cams and crank, the loose part of the chain would be taken up with the CCT. This is confirmed in the Yamaha shop manual bringing the engine to TDC (page 5-13, 07-09 manual)



In that above engine, it appears the CCT on each head (the inner gear(s)?, looks like an adjuster of some sort) are adjusted (or are automatic) on the slack side (same as the FZ and most if not all engines)

Question, on the last picture, it appears the chain slack, on the left (as you look at it), is due to the upper adjuster being loose and not pulling upward enough, (between the bend in the chain and being unable to see the casting high up on the block right in the same area) correct?

 

[FinalImpact]

Agreed, the engine should be cranked by hand forward taking the slack out of the chain at the cams and crank, the loose part of the chain would be taken up with the CCT. This is confirmed in the Yamaha shop manual bringing the engine to TDC (page 5-13, 07-09 manual)



In that above engine, it appears the CCT on each head (the inner gear(s)?, looks like an adjuster of some sort) are adjusted (or are automatic) on the slack side (same as the FZ and most if not all engines)

Question, on the last picture, it appears the chain slack, on the left (as you look at it), is due to the upper adjuster being loose and not pulling upward enough, (between the bend in the chain and being unable to see the casting high up on the block right in the same area) correct?

Lower Pic; the CCT has been removed allowing the guide to drop away excessively. NOTE: IF the timing chain cover were in place, it could not move this far, but it can move substantially. Sadly, just like our FZ, some CCT's fail and during replacement they skip teeth because people turn the crank the WRONG WAY and w/out pressure on the guide. As noted; From the pivot at the top of the guide (adjacent large plug in head), the chain and guide are being abused at those angles.

This CCT uses both a spring and oil pressure during operation; the spring gives it constant pressure (example during start up when oil pressure is low), then the oil assists via a controlled leak.

On a separate note, ("looks like an adjuster of some sort") this Engine also has variable valve timing (two oil control actuators) on the INTAKE (two cams closest together in the V, outers are Exhaust). Notice on the Intake gear there is somewhat of an X pattern. That's for the CAM angle sensor in relation to the Crank. The sensors are in the valve cover and not shown here. Neither of these have anything to do the CAM chain tension per say and/or slack in the chain. Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes it does make sense...

Nothing like a nice long chain for later problems...

I'd rather have the short, double row, old style, Chevy, cam chain with NO ADJUSTERs (none needed as its so short).

Yes, you loose power without the overhead cams, but, IMHO, KISS (keep it simple stupid). Lasts forever, no adjusters to fail or screw with, etc.. :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hello! After quite a bit of searching I noticed that we don't have a single definitive thread to illustrate how to change the tensioner/install a manual cam chain tensioner. I'd like to help make a guide to help others get through this, but the problem is I'm not 100% sure what I'm doing myself, and understand how critical this tensioner is to the engine's well being.

The first thing I want to ask about is making sure the engine is at top dead center as so that there is not any tension on the cam chain via the valve springs. Earlier today I removed the side cover to have a look, and I attached what that looks like in a picture. I see the T mark on the gold disc, but am confused as to what exactly that needs to be lined up with to find top dead center?

Secondly, do you need some kind of specialty Allen wrench to remove the timing chain tensioner? To my knowledge to take it out it is just the 2 5mm Allen bolts on either side of it, but the inside one is a bit burried. Ill attach another shot of that.

Finally, setting the proper tension. From what I read, one is supposed to have it backed all the way out as it is installed. Then you tighten the tensioner until you feel it make contact with the chain. Then you slowly roll the crank forward as you tighten the cct until you feel resistance, at which point you back the cct out 1/4 turn. Is this correct?

Thanks for the help guys!

Did you ever get it installed/adjusted?

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Thanks for the write-up Finalimpact, and zip-tie trick Townsend.

Can anybody tell me what APE Manual CCT the FZ6 can use? I assume it is the Tensioner that is used on the older R6 engine like the one our bike is derived from?

R6 (THRU 2005) YT1000 Use gasket #EC109 - $2.95

and not:

R6 (2006-2013) YTR6 Use gasket #EC019 - $4.53

Thank you.