Buying Used 08 FZ6 Question

[lawlberg]

The scratches are actually on the interior of the tank, almost directly below the opening.

Those are just scratches from the pump nozzle resting inside the tank while it's being filled. I've got them on mine, nothing dangerous there - though mine aren't rusty at all. If those scratches are rusty on it, probably a bit of water in the tank like others have said. Shouldn't be too big of an issue though.

 

[Ssky0078]

When I had bought my '08 Fz6 with 7200 miles I went ahead and changed the plugs at 8,000 miles. I don't remember what the manual said if it was 8,000 or 12,000 miles for the service schedule but I was glad I did because the bike ran a little smoother and had better power. I did upgrade to iridium plugs as well. Two of the old plugs had darker/black rings while 2 of them had a nice tan color.

It was approximately $40 for the plugs and about 1.5 hours of my time. I've heard [people that are good mechanic types can do the job in about 20 minutes. I haven't worked on a bike before so I did a lot of looking and figuring how everything went together.

 

[newrider13]

The seller has no issues with having a shop look over the bike prior to purchase. I just have to work out getting the bike there.

Hopefully something can be worked out for this upcoming weekend.

 

[fb40dash5]

When I had bought my '08 Fz6 with 7200 miles I went ahead and changed the plugs at 8,000 miles. I don't remember what the manual said if it was 8,000 or 12,000 miles for the service schedule but I was glad I did because the bike ran a little smoother and had better power. I did upgrade to iridium plugs as well. Two of the old plugs had darker/black rings while 2 of them had a nice tan color.

It was approximately $40 for the plugs and about 1.5 hours of my time. I've heard [people that are good mechanic types can do the job in about 20 minutes. I haven't worked on a bike before so I did a lot of looking and figuring how everything went together.

I just replaced my Iridiums with stock plugs the other weekend. Granted I've got semi-pro tools at work, but I did them in about 30 without straining. The worst part is getting the plug boots out, if you've got the right tools. Fine tooth 1/4" ratchet, 3" 1/4 extension, 3/8" adapter, plug socket, and for me a bendy magnet to fish the plugs out because they're too small for the plug socket to grab. Drop the socket in, feed the extension and adapter in, then throw the ratchet on, reverse to remove, possibly with needlenose pliers.

I thought the Iridiums were awesome at first. I'd been chasing a poor idle all last season, and the plugs fixed it right up. I dunno why, but mine did not like 'em at all. I checked them at ~0.030" gap, and they were all nice and tan, but it idled like pure crap and fell flat on its face below 2k, and I mean flat. YMMV. I might give the platinum/iridium NGK Lasers in and see if they're any better, I dunno.

 

[Daniel_Aus]

The seller has no issues with having a shop look over the bike prior to purchase. I just have to work out getting the bike there.

Hopefully something can be worked out for this upcoming weekend.

The dealership I use for services have a pick up service for $30 each way which is pretty fair. Ask around you might find something similar.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The seller has no issues with having a shop look over the bike prior to purchase. I just have to work out getting the bike there.

Hopefully something can be worked out for this upcoming weekend.

I think it'd be well worth the investment. Hopefully they'd have an experianced (and familiar with the FZ) and not a neebie mechanic look at the bike. A quick test ride to check the transmission for any issues would be mandatory in my book...

You could offer the seller a couple of bucks for gas and have him ride it there. If the bike doesn't make it there under its own power, you already have your answer...

*If it passes, purchase it right there or shortly thereafter.. Actually, you can have the shop do the ft tire (and any other issues should there be any-adjust price accordingly) and just leave it there.

Good luck!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I just replaced my Iridiums with stock plugs the other weekend. Granted I've got semi-pro tools at work, but I did them in about 30 without straining. The worst part is getting the plug boots out, if you've got the right tools. Fine tooth 1/4" ratchet, 3" 1/4 extension, 3/8" adapter, plug socket, and for me a bendy magnet to fish the plugs out because they're too small for the plug socket to grab. Drop the socket in, feed the extension and adapter in, then throw the ratchet on, reverse to remove, possibly with needlenose pliers.

I thought the Iridiums were awesome at first. I'd been chasing a poor idle all last season, and the plugs fixed it right up. I dunno why, but mine did not like 'em at all. I checked them at ~0.030" gap, and they were all nice and tan, but it idled like pure crap and fell flat on its face below 2k, and I mean flat. YMMV. I might give the platinum/iridium NGK Lasers in and see if they're any better, I dunno.

Per the Yamaha shop manual, the gap should be .023-028" gap, your a tad bit wide at .030"

A couple of tips re the socket.

Put a layer or two of electrical tape inside the socket. Re-peat if necessary until the socket fits snuggly over the spark plug for removal. For re-installation, a short piece of rubber tube slipped over the porcelin allows you to gently set the plug in the hole and start the threads (don't use anti-sieze, the NGK plugs have a finish to prevent siezing). Pull the hose off once installed.

Also, re the iridiums, they need to be checked with a WIRE style plug gap tool, a flat feeler gauge will not give an accurate reading. If afjustment is needed, the ground strap has to be bent, you shouldn't tap the ground like standard plugs.

On the 07 and up models, you can just loosen the radiator and NOT remove it.

I didn't notice ANY DIFFERENCE putting in standard iridiums at about 12,000 miles. My original plugs looked new...

 

[fb40dash5]

On the 07 and up models, you can just loosen the radiator and NOT remove it.

You can do this on the S1 as well, all you need is the upper hose out of the way. Unbolt it and push it forward and down, done.

Everything I saw on the gap is 0.028", which is right around 0.7mm. Who knows, maybe that couple thousandths was the difference between firing well at idle (with low voltage) and firing poorly. It picked right up above 2k. The Laser Iridium/platinum plug is an IMR9C-9H, PN 6777 just for the record. Same heat range and other specs, just needs the gap tightened up a hair.

I just checked with one of the old plugs, a little piece of 3/8" fuel or vacuum hose should work as an insert to actually hold the plug. Apparently you can just push the rubber insert right down by the tip, too... oops.

 

[newrider13]

I think it'd be well worth the investment. Hopefully they'd have an experianced (and familiar with the FZ) and not a neebie mechanic look at the bike. A quick test ride to check the transmission for any issues would be mandatory in my book...

You could offer the seller a couple of bucks for gas and have him ride it there. If the bike doesn't make it there under its own power, you already have your answer...

*If it passes, purchase it right there or shortly thereafter.. Actually, you can have the shop do the ft tire (and any other issues should there be any-adjust price accordingly) and just leave it there.

Good luck!

That was my original plan. I told the seller I’d follow him over to the shop from his house and if the bike passed without any issue I would buy it right then.

It has hit a bit of a snag as he said that he doesnt have time to ride the bike over himself.

I'm going to try to find someone local with a pick-up or trailer.

 

[pookamatic]

Just catching up on this, and my opinion on the concerns (all of them grouped):

They could just be nothing.
They could be a little annoyance.
They could lead to much bigger pains and heartache.

I paid 3,750 for my 08 last April with 9.5K, TB, and tires with half their life left.

So I think to start with, either I got a steal, or this guys asking price is slightly on the high side to begin with (but still within range... regional price might be spot on). Once you start considering questionable maintenance, you start to worry.

I guess what I'm getting at is, can you make the whole process easier on yourself by looking for another bike? Craigslist has several in the MA area. You won't remember the extra 3-400 you spent on the bike, but you may regret it every time you have to deal with another issue.

 

[FinalImpact]

Yamaha's are good Bikes in General and nothing here stands out for that price! Grab it before it goes away!

Your todo list would look like this:
Clean and lube chain
Flush and replace coolant
Flush and replace brake fluid - bleeding brakes
Check battery date of manufacture (if only a few years old, it may be ok) but - it may be due for replacement from sitting
Lube the cables
Replace the tires
Inspect all fasteners for proper tension
Acquire a FSM
Acquire riding buddies!
Get Scott's home phone number!
Ride!

PS - surface rust on the chain is NBD. Don't worry about.
If the bike is from a coastal town, I'd be up for inspecting all of the electrical connections buts that's just my personal preference!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can do this on the S1 as well, all you need is the upper hose out of the way. Unbolt it and push it forward and down, done.

Everything I saw on the gap is 0.028", which is right around 0.7mm. Who knows, maybe that couple thousandths was the difference between firing well at idle (with low voltage) and firing poorly. It picked right up above 2k. The Laser Iridium/platinum plug is an IMR9C-9H, PN 6777 just for the record. Same heat range and other specs, just needs the gap tightened up a hair.

I just checked with one of the old plugs, a little piece of 3/8" fuel or vacuum hose should work as an insert to actually hold the plug. Apparently you can just push the rubber insert right down by the tip, too... oops.

Yepper, as the plug wears out, the gap gets wider.

Ever check the TPS or do a throttle sync?

 

[Ssky0078]

I just replaced my Iridiums with stock plugs the other weekend. Granted I've got semi-pro tools at work, but I did them in about 30 without straining. The worst part is getting the plug boots out, if you've got the right tools. Fine tooth 1/4" ratchet, 3" 1/4 extension, 3/8" adapter, plug socket, and for me a bendy magnet to fish the plugs out because they're too small for the plug socket to grab. Drop the socket in, feed the extension and adapter in, then throw the ratchet on, reverse to remove, possibly with needlenose pliers.

I thought the Iridiums were awesome at first. I'd been chasing a poor idle all last season, and the plugs fixed it right up. I dunno why, but mine did not like 'em at all. I checked them at ~0.030" gap, and they were all nice and tan, but it idled like pure crap and fell flat on its face below 2k, and I mean flat. YMMV. I might give the platinum/iridium NGK Lasers in and see if they're any better, I dunno.

I would invest in a Morgan Carbtune or if you are invention minded make up your own manometer following the various threads about it on the forum. I did a throttle body sync on my Fz1 and it made the throttle/idle smooth as silk. I thought it was definitely worth the $100 spent for the tool for shear entertainment value of hard/smooth acceleration.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would invest in a Morgan Carbtune or if you are invention minded make up your own manometer following the various threads about it on the forum. I did a throttle body sync on my Fz1 and it made the throttle/idle smooth as silk. I thought it was definitely worth the $100 spent for the tool for shear entertainment value of hard/smooth acceleration.

+1 on the Morgan carbtune, it's paid for itself several times over. No liquids to worry about or suck into your engine. Yamaha will charge you well over $100 for a sync..

Also, when syncing, check/adjust it again at approx 4,000 RPM's, you'd be surprised at how much difference there sometimes is (when idle is set dead even). You'll still be within sync but it'll run MUCH smoother

 

[fb40dash5]

Yepper, as the plug wears out, the gap gets wider.

Ever check the TPS or do a throttle sync?

I don't think the gap opened up any from erosion. Those Iridiums had maybe 7-8k on them? If the gap opened up like that, the guys claiming 100k on them would have a 1" gap by the end.

Yes I've checked the TPS and made sure the recall was done, no I haven't done a sync. I did, however, clear the idle right up with stock plugs. I'm effin' magic if that means the sync or TPS was the problem. :BLAA: From what I've seen on here, I'm far from the only one to have the same issue with the IX Iridiums... start out fine, slowly lose mileage and idle quality.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't think the gap opened up any from erosion. Those Iridiums had maybe 7-8k on them? If the gap opened up like that, the guys claiming 100k on them would have a 1" gap by the end.

Yes I've checked the TPS and made sure the recall was done, no I haven't done a sync. I did, however, clear the idle right up with stock plugs. I'm effin' magic if that means the sync or TPS was the problem. :BLAA: From what I've seen on here, I'm far from the only one to have the same issue with the IX Iridiums... start out fine, slowly lose mileage and idle quality.

Either a misunderstanding on my part or ?

When I replaced mine, I used the standard NGK iridium CR9EIX which should be .030" per: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/apps/motorcycles/make4.asp?id=7728&type=ir

As noted earlier, the gap should be checked using a wire gauge, not a flat gauge as thier easily damaged.

**Is it possible an iridium got damaged on the install?

I just checked my maintainance log, I have a little over 5,000 miles on the iridium plugs, idles still fine (about the same as the regular plugs). The mileage, did not drop, if anything, up slightly (probably from less throttle on the last mileage check-about 48MPG around town).

I have read that thread you mentioned re the iridiums performance down the road.

I do have my idle set at 1,000 RPM's as it idles smoother (same with the stock plugs) than 1,200. I do use either Seafoam or Yamaha "Ringfree" on occassion to keep the top end/injectors clean. You may want to try some good fuel additive if the idle is hunting, can't hurt. My sync is dead on within 2 MM's up to 4K RPM's.

I do NOT have an after market PC, stone stock, short of the open Scorps and iridiums.

BTW, I found and ordered my iridiums on Amazon, a bit cheaper:
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/NGK-CR9EIX-Iridium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000CSGWZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363773657&sr=8-1&keywords=ngk+iridium+spark+plugs+CR9EIX"]NGK CR9EIX Iridium IX Spark Plug : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

 

[fb40dash5]

Same plugs I had in there, I didn't check when I put them in, but I did check them when I pulled them and found them all to be right at 0.030" like I said.

I used plenty of fuel additives, since the Iridiums are supposed to be great plugs I figured there was no way they were the problem, so I was thinking I had a fuel problem last year. Seafoam and Marine Sta-Bil out the wazoo.

I don't know why you keep telling me to chase down other things when I've said like 3 times now, I swapped the plugs back to stock, and the problem went away. What do I know, I'm only a mechanic, but when I swap something and the problem goes away, I generally assume what I swapped was the culprit.

Not saying not to try them or that they're junk, just that they didn't work for me, and I'm not alone. Maybe with the gap tightened down to 0.026" or so, they'll be fine. I remember reading somewhere that platinum/iridium actually require MORE voltage to fire well, but they fire hotter and last longer than copper. Since the FZ isn't really charging at idle, that would seem to help explain the crappy idle and off-idle performance, and why it clears up at riding RPMs.

 

[newrider13]

Seller is dropping the bike off at a shop tonight for a pre-purchase evaluation.

I should have the shop's assessment of the condition tomorrow and if all goes well will be finalizing the purchase this weekend.

 

[Kazza]

:welcome:

Agree with the tyres - get rid of those originals and get some Metzler Z8's :rockon:

If you buy it - change the oil, tyres and check brakes etc. Otherwise, she should be fine

 

[kingston123]

I am not sure but i think this price is reasonable. First you check the bike and then i think you can buy this one.