Broken fuel pump outlet, what should I do?

TownsendsFJR1300

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Is this the one you were looking for brand new and direct replacement? I'm seeing shop selling it like $69 + shipping

New Intank EFI Fuel Pump Yamaha FZ6, FZ6R 2007-2013

New Intank EFI Fuel Pump Yamaha YZFR6, YZF R6, 600, YZFR6, R6L R6S R6R 2003-2012



M103459376

If you read the fine print on the bottom of the pic, their selling the PUMP ONLY, not the housing which is broke(as I understand, I may be wrong)..

Here's a snip of the fine print under their picture(click on my pic to enlarge so you can read it);
 
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artibramuir

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He'd be replacing a good pump motor with another good aftermarket pump BUT still have the damaged housing.

Yup. The first thing I did when it broke was check eBay, get excited that they were so reasonable, and disappointed when I figured that out. But now I'm thinking about following ya'lls advice and setting an eBay alert for used pumps.

JB Weld update:
I don't have a lot of experience with JB Weld, this is probably my third project to use it. After confirming that it was fuel-safe and rated for temperatures and pressures far in excess of what the outlet would experience, I took my (original) broken pump housing and

-Cleaned off the remains of the previous owner's epoxy (or whatever it was),
-Roughed up the surface of the plastic housing where the JB Weld would go,
-Fit the pieces together
-Plastered over a large section in as thick a layer of the stuff as would stick.
-Triple checked that the opening was unobstructed and there was no sign of JB Weld leaking in

When I came back in 45 minutes, excess was dripping off in every direction, but it was still soft enough for me to clean it up. Another 30 minutes later it looked the same, so I left it overnight.

I just checked on it, and while it appears very solid and sturdy, I should have quadruple-checked the opening. Somehow JB Weld dripped through the crack and completely blocked the outlet.

So now I have a perfectly strong paperweight. I'm leaving town for a week and a half this morning, so I won't be able to try anything else for a while. Thanks again to everyone for all your help and contributions, especially FB400 for sending me your old pump. I'll be back on the case as soon as I'm in town.
 

FinalImpact

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If in fact an FZ6R housing is the same, grab one and put your regulator in it. Pump too if you like.
Obviously the PN will be different too.

I know some have tried an R6 but it uses a return line and is not a good candidate. Remember ours is returnless so more holes to plug. But it may work if you know where the PR senses from. If it dumps pressure/volume from the return line thats a no go. If its from the main line (pump side), then use the FZ6 P/R....

FWIW: i would NEVER use a glued component on a pressure rail. With vibes anx gas = bad idea...
 

Motogiro

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FWIW: i would NEVER use a glued component on a pressure rail. With vibes anx gas = bad idea...

Added to this ^^^^ The plastic the pump housing is made from is probably an inert plastic, meaning it will not be effected by chemicals. This basically means there will be no bonding of part or adhesive to another part and anything you use will not give solid physical or hydraulic integrity.
 

FinalImpact

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fleebay - NOW $120 for used oem part... [MENTION=26399]artibramuir[/MENTION]

04 -14 Yamaha FZ6 FZ 6 R 600 FZ600 Fazer petrol gas fuel pump and sending unit << Never mind the FZ6R Part #.
The PN is for 04 - 09 -->5VX-13907-01-00 FUEL PUMP COMP :welcome:


Although this is entertaining... 3 bikes, FZ6, FZ6R, FZ1 CA editions....

20S-13907-00-00 FUEL PUMP COMP.

20S-13907-00-00 FUEL PUMP COMP.

2009 FZ1 (GRANITE GRAY) (CA ED.) - FZS10YCG FUEL TANK
2009 FZ6 (BLACK METALLIC X) (CA ED.) - FZ6RYCB FUEL TANK
2009 FZ6 (DARK PURPLISH BLUE METALLIC C) (CA ED.) - FZ6RYCL FUEL TANK
2009 FZ6 (DARK PURPLISH BLUE METALLIC C) - FZ6RYL FUEL TANK
2009 FZ6R (BLUISH WHITE ****TAIL 1) (CA ED.) - FZ6RYCW FUEL TANK
2009 FZ6R (BLUISH WHITE ****TAIL 1) - FZ6RYW FUEL TANK
2009 FZ6R (REDISH YELLOW ****TAIL 1) (CA ED.) - FZ6RYCY FUEL TANK
2009 FZ6R (REDISH YELLOW ****TAIL 1) - FZ6RYY FUEL TANK
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZB FUEL TANK
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCB FUEL TANK
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCL FUEL TANK
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCR FUEL TANK
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZCW FUEL TANK
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZL FUEL TANK
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZR FUEL TANK
2010 FZ6R - FZ6RZW FUEL TANK​
 

artibramuir

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On a related note, does anyone know where to find a replacement fuel line bracket? Or whatever it's called--the black plastic piece that keeps pressure off the pump outlet / fuel line joint?

I may have misplaced mine in the chaos Saturday. I was planning on fabricating a new one out of PVC pipe, but it would be nice to be able to buy the real thing.
 

FinalImpact

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I think Finalimpact said it didn't fit; " Never mind the FZ6R Part #." Unless I read it wrong..

The PN's are different, both run the same fuel pressure, the pumps inside are the same and yet boats.net says the fz1, fz6 and the R are all the same!

One could speculate the fuel meter calibration to be based upon tank shape and size but im pretty sure the resistor is linear on all of them regardless. Whow knows what they did!
 

FinalImpact

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Jumble of information...... :spank:

It just dawned on me - the wire to the float arm may be the difference and obviously the cap/condenser to normalize the fuel reading as the bikes nose goes up and down (R1/R6), and the fuel pressure regulator. All these can be swapped out tho!

As stated, the electric pump motor assembly is pretty generic and used in some small cars.

In short, many of the plastic parts interchange so there is little need to buy a whole new pump assembly for $400. You just have to mix and match! Right side picture; unclip the meter assembly. Far Right side be careful not to break these clips installing assembly into tank.

The whole pump comes apart. Attached is an 08 R1 pump (4C8-13907-01-00). The base appears the same as ours. It could be used in this case. So you swap your GOOD FZ parts into the mix and your set. Even go after a bad pump and take the base. It all just clips together.

From the FZ6 you keep your:
- Fuel level Resistor, unclip as shown in attachment.
- Float and float arm
- Pressure regulator
- Pumps interchange
- Mesh filter interchanges

Just be kind to the clips and spreading them just enough to take them apart.

EDIT: Adding more bits to the list:
It appears **some** R1 and R6 components are compatible! << MEANING - read the details. THIS IS NOT a DROP IN! But if you broke the HP outlet, here are some cheap parts! Bad pumps go for $20!!!

PN: 4C8-13907-01-00 << These may drop into all models (Not Sure!?!)
FZ6 2009 CA model
FZ6R 2009 - 2010 48 States
FZ1 2009 CA model


DONOR PARTS ONLY
PN: 4C8-13907-00-00
R6; 08 - 14
R1; 07 - 08

JJD952 - Fuel Pump
Edit #2, adding another picture or two...
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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It just dawned on me - the wire to the float arm may be the difference??

Dredge up an FZ1 manual and find the fuel pressure for that. As stated, the electric pump motor are pretty generic and used in some small cars.

In short, too many of the plastic parts and interchange so there is little need to buy a whole new pump assembly for $400. You just have to mix and match!

For the OP, should the fuel float arm be different than yours, you should (in a perect world) be able to swap your sending unit to the new one..
 

artibramuir

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I got it running again!

The replacement fuel pump came while I was gone. I did the same procedure as before (albeit much faster since I knew exactly what to do). When I finished last time I drained and disconnected the fuel tank, so this time all I had to do was:

1. Remove the metal retaining bracket
2. Disconnect the outer housing on the new pump
3. Unplug the two harnesses on the new pump (I used a metal pick to pry the tab back while I pulled them out)
4. Pull the old pump halfway out of the tank and disconnect the outer housing
5. Unplug one harness from the old pump, plug it into the new housing. Repeat for the other.
6. Snap it back together, slide the new O-ring on, and reinstall.

Through all the drama I ended up accidentally ripping off the fuel gauge harness, so I'll have to repair that somehow. Of course, one of the main reasons I took the tank off and broke the outlet in the first place was because that harness had come unplugged. So now I'm back roughly where I started.

But at least I have a running bike! So excited. Thanks again everyone for your help! Feel free to ask if you have similar questions and need advice.

Also, I now have two probably-operational fuel pump cores to pay forward if there's someone in need.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I got it running again!

The replacement fuel pump came while I was gone. I did the same procedure as before (albeit much faster since I knew exactly what to do). When I finished last time I drained and disconnected the fuel tank, so this time all I had to do was:

1. Remove the metal retaining bracket
2. Disconnect the outer housing on the new pump
3. Unplug the two harnesses on the new pump (I used a metal pick to pry the tab back while I pulled them out)
4. Pull the old pump halfway out of the tank and disconnect the outer housing
5. Unplug one harness from the old pump, plug it into the new housing. Repeat for the other.
6. Snap it back together, slide the new O-ring on, and reinstall.

Through all the drama I ended up accidentally ripping off the fuel gauge harness, so I'll have to repair that somehow. Of course, one of the main reasons I took the tank off and broke the outlet in the first place was because that harness had come unplugged. So now I'm back roughly where I started.

But at least I have a running bike! So excited. Thanks again everyone for your help! Feel free to ask if you have similar questions and need advice.

Also, I now have two probably-operational fuel pump cores to pay forward if there's someone in need.


Excellent!

Do a search, your definitly NOT the first to damage that plug.

Someone posted previously a link to get new wire end connectors if you need them (I didn't save it..:( )
 
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