Broke coolant drain bolt

[Karate.Snoopy]

So after changing the coolant to Honda Type 2 coolant, I started to torque the drain bolt with a brand new torque wrench I bought from Amazon. It is the clicking type, I noticed some coolant jump come out and as soon as I pulled the wrench away the drain bolt came out with it. It was broken in 2 with the tail still in side.

I put the bike on the side stand and put a bucket to catch the coolant.

How do I rectify this situation?
How do I pull out the part of the drain bolt still lodged in side?
What is the drain bolt size that I should get from Autozone?

Also for the future should I even bother torquing the damn bolt. May be the wrench wasn't calibrated, never heard it click.

Thanks all

 

[Erci]

Can't tell you the bolt size, but to get the broken part out, an extractor bit should do the trick.

I've not seen complaints about that particular bolt on this forum, but on FZ1 forum, there's a thread about many people breaking it and the suggestion is to never touch it, but to drain coolant by pulling off hoses.

 

[Karate.Snoopy]

Is this the correct part number for the Coolant drain bolt

95024-10020-00 BOLT

 

[FinalImpact]

With the coolant out, pull the remaining bolts around the cover water pump and the shank will likely be exposed. Usually when the head snaps off, the remaining threads turn by hand. You just need to grip it enough to spin it.

You need new gaskets/seals so get those and the bolt online or from the dealer. IIRC its a special bolt.

I hope this is easily resolved by taking the cover off.

 

[Erci]

Bolts that turn in by finger for 10 turns and then stop are a good guide as you feel change occur. Bolts that turn hard all the way and then stop are much harder to feel a difference and this is where problems are exposed. Typically when all is well they turn by hand and when they don't its because the threads are dirty or damaged.

Here's how you can figure out proper torque for any given bolt: tighten until the head snaps off and then back off a quarter turn :rof:

 

[FIZZER6]

I may take some heat for this but here it goes. I own several torque wrenches. I rarely use them on for example a single bolt like drain plug. I do use them on items which need the same torque spread over a given load. Like a car wheel, engine head bolts, covers with more than two bolts. I am not saying "don't use a torque wrench". I am saying, attention to detail is everything. Bolts that turn in by finger for 10 turns and then stop are a good guide as you feel change occur. Bolts that turn hard all the way and then stop are much harder to feel a difference and this is where problems are exposed. Typically when all is well they turn by hand and when they don't its because the threads are dirty or damaged.
From watching
for the exception of items

I agree. I only use a torque wrench on headbolts, wheel lugs and suspension components on cars.

Smaller bolts, especially 12mm and smaller I always go by feel, keeping in mind that you can't torque a small bolt that is tapped into aluminum threads very much at all!

Some people have a "feel" for how much torque a particular bolt needs, some people need to follow the spec or they will get into trouble!

 

[FinalImpact]

Just an observation about repairs in general:

I know everyone wants to do things by the book following the manufactures spec, and this is good. It is! :thumbup: The trick is you also have "feel" and what is happening too. On small bolts sometimes a very short wrench or ratchet is the best tool as you can feel exactly when bolts quit turning. From this, you know its tight and application of more torque can be damaging. Even though it may/may not be at torque spec care must be taken when bolts stop turning so its critical to keep on eye on the fasteners being tightened.

I may take some heat for this but here it goes.
I own several torque wrenches. I rarely use them on for example a single bolt like drain plug. I do use them on items which need the same torque applied to multi bolts to spread the load evenly. Like a car wheel, engine head bolts, covers with more than two bolts. I am not saying "don't use a torque wrench". I am saying, attention to detail is everything. Bolts that turn in by finger for 10 turns and then stop are a good guide as you feel change occur. Bolts that turn hard all the way and then stop are much harder to feel a difference and these can lead to problems. Typically when all is well they turn by hand and when they don't its because the threads are dirty or damaged.

Bottom line: If you have a torque wrench with an 18" handle (or longer) and you're goal is to torque a pea sized bolt, you don't get much feed back from a long handle. If a torque wrench is to be used, run the bolt/nut down with a wrench or ratchet to lightly seat it. With this you can feel when it starts to apply load. From here, pay close attention to how much the head rotates before it stops turning with "minimal force" as too much can lead to pulled threads or broken heads.

Good luck!

 

[FinalImpact]

I agree. I only use a torque wrench on headbolts, wheel lugs and suspension components on cars.

Smaller bolts, especially 12mm and smaller I always go by feel, keeping in mind that you can't torque a small bolt that is tapped into aluminum threads very much at all!

Some people have a "feel" for how much torque a particular bolt needs, some people need to follow the spec or they will get into trouble!

^^ you caught me before I could fix what I started. :spank:

 

[Karate.Snoopy]

Good advise folks, I will be using the "Easy Out" to pull out the shank.
Any one know what the correct part # might be for the Coolant drain bolt

 

[pookamatic]

I don't own a torque wrench. Never have. But I would like one for the bigger, more critical bolts.

What I did to tighten the coolant drain bolt (like 6 times now):

Small 1/4" drive ratchet, index and middle on one side of the wrench, thumb on the other. I pretty much was holding only the head of the ratchet. I then gave a good tightening. But a good tightening with one inch of torque really doesn't amount to much.

I think it dripped on me once. Gave it tad more oomph and it was good to go.

Thanks for the part number. Will be added to my next order.

 

[Karate.Snoopy]

Called Boats.net , called a couple of dealers, no one can find the exact part # for the damn Coolant drain bolt
I am thinking its probably a 6 mm bolt and anything around the same size and not too long should do the trick?

 

[FinalImpact]

Good advise folks, I will be using the "Easy Out" to pull out the shank.
Any one know what the correct part # might be for the Coolant drain bolt

Can't imagine you need an easy out for this. That involves, center punch direct hit to middle, drill to correct size, insert EO, and turn. If all goes well and the drilling doesn't stick it in the bottom of the hole, it comes out.

Or - remove a few bolts and thread with fingers. You have a picture it? Did it break flush?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Here's how you can figure out proper torque for any given bolt: tighten until the head snaps off and then back off a quarter turn :rof:

OMG, LOL!!

Hate when that happens....

Also, that bolt is so small and easily broken, it'll likely come out pretty easy.

As Randy stated, remove the cover so you don't bugger that up. If you can grab whats left, great. If not smooth it out with some sort of power grinding tool Dremel, small grinder, etc) so you can accurately center punch it.

There's not of aluminum back there so just smack the center punch lightly. A reverse drill bit couldn't hurt, a small cheap set of "Easy outs" are cheap too.. Shouldn't be too difficult, normal torque is about 6 or 8 ft lbs or so (I do small ones like that by hand as well).

 

[Karate.Snoopy]

Think I found the bolt is part number 95024-06020-00 and the gasket is
part # 90430-06014-00

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

This is a Genuine "Yamaha" parts ONLY website BY Yamaha:

My Yamaha Prompt - Parts Catalog

Shouldn't be a problem finding correct part #'s etc there..

 

[iSteve]

You broke it using a torque wrench... did you confuse inch/lbs with ft/lbs.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

At 7.2 ft lbs, hopefully he was using an inch torque wrench (if your going to use a torque wrench) ((7.2 x 12=86.4 inch lbs )).

I believe that bolt is a 5mm, NOT a 6mm, but you'll know once its out.:thumbup:

 

[Karate.Snoopy]

At 7.2 ft lbs, hopefully he was using an inch torque wrench (if your going to use a torque wrench) ((7.2 x 12=86.4 inch lbs )).

I believe that bolt is a 5mm, NOT a 6mm, but you'll know once its out.:thumbup:

You might be right about the bolt being a 5mm bolt. it did say M6 thread size in the service manual though. I will be ordering the part from the dealer if available else order it from the online link that you provided. Appreciate the help

 

[Ssky0078]

I did this same thing on my Fz1. I wasn't using a torque wrench, and was really just one, maybe two fingers tight. The head just snapped off and upon examining the remains it seemed as if the bolt was corroded (the bike came from Minnesota/Wisconsin). I had the shop fix it, and all they did was taken off the metal section/tube that the bolt hole was a part of. then they drilld and tapped out the shank. I think mine was an 8mm bolt but it may have been a 6mm.

I asked the guy at the shop and they said they would see a couple bikes a year this had happened to and they were always bikes from up north.

 

[FinalImpact]

this is also great option....

If any part of the head is exposed, slotting the shank with a Dremel thin cut off disc and then use a flat head screw driver....