Bike will not start

[alittletoored]

2006 FZ6 Will not start. I have looked at everything, but nothing that I can tell is wrong.
Battery Good Shows 12v
Kick Stand switch Good Had resistance through
Kill switch Good Shows twelve volt power when in the on position
Starter Switch Good Shows around 9v going to it and zero when not engaged
Rear fuses are good.
Front 30A fuses are good.
Power is going to the starter Via the Power cord through relay, assuming relay to be good.
I beleive that the Neutral Safety switch is working. It has some four volts flowing to it and when disconnected the check engine light comes one. However, the neutral light on the gauge cluster is not on. Im not sure if it even works though.
I am currently looking at the wiring diagram, but it is rather hard to make heads or tails of. :banghead:

Any help would be much appriciated.

 

[RJ2112]

12V is not necessarily an indication of a good charge on the battery. At rest, fully charged it should read closer to 14. The fuel injection pump uses current, as well as the starter motor, and the ignition coils. It's most probable that the battery is discharged enough that it cannot supply everything needed, to start the bike.

Try charging the battery. Look at the battery to determine if it is the OEM unit. A 5 YO battery is near the end of it's useful life. May be time to replace it.

 

[Erci]

Have you tried to bump-start it?

 

[alittletoored]

I did think about that with the battery, so I tried jumping it. The issue was that my cables where to big for the connections. I very well may try that again after giving the battery a full charge, because this just happened sporatically.

As for pop starting it. Will these bikes pop start with the FI? I haven't tried because it is in a few peices, but this would give a good indication of the ECU is out. (If it will run vs. starter circuit bad).

Thanks for the tips, hope it is as simple as this.

 

[RJ2112]

If you hear the FI pump whine for a second or two when you turn on the ignition, there's enough juice for the FI, and it will probably start with a bump start.

 

[alittletoored]

Thanks for the bump start idea. I took a little hustle, but she started. So that rules out the entire ECU, but not the starter section.

As for the battery, that is not the issue. I disconnected the terminals and hooked them up to the truck. We are back to it being an actual electrical problem.

So, any more idea? I'm still having issues figuring out the wiring diagram.

You guy don't think to many people would laugh if I just pop started it ever where i went? :cheer:

 

[RJ2112]

Take a look at the terminals and connectors throughout the wiring harness.... if you see anything other than bright, shiny metal on the contacts, you may well have some surface corrosion that is limiting the amount of juice that can flow.

There should also be a fusible link in the leads going to the starter.... check to make sure you have continuity from the battery, to the solenoid, and to the starter terminals them selves.

 

[Numpty]

Have you tried the spare key to see what happens?

 

[alittletoored]

Take a look at the terminals and connectors throughout the wiring harness.... if you see anything other than bright, shiny metal on the contacts, you may well have some surface corrosion that is limiting the amount of juice that can flow.

There should also be a fusible link in the leads going to the starter.... check to make sure you have continuity from the battery, to the solenoid, and to the starter terminals them selves.

I have checked most of the connections and they all seem to be fine. This doesn't seem like it would be the issue seeing as there isn't much corrosion at all and the bike worked just a week ago. But as for the fusible link, this is what I was looking for. I do have power to the wire that gives main power to the starter. (Checked after the relay and fuses, but at the beginning of the wire not the actual starter connection). Is there any other wires that go to the starter other than the main twelve gauge one? (If so they are hidden well) Also do you know exactly where this fuseable link is?

Thanks a bunch guys.

 

[killernoodle]

The motor needs 3 things (compression, fuel, spark) to start, but only 2 need to be diagnosed here:

Try to start it for a few seconds, then quickly pull a spark plug out. Is the plug wet after you try to start it? If not, if you ground the plug against the motor and crank it, does it spark? If you can do that, this will be a lot easier to diagnose.

EDIT: nevermind, if its not turning over, then you have a different issue.

I'd try bump starting it first. It may take a few tries, so you might want a buddy to help push. Just put it in 2nd, get it moving pretty good, and bounce on the seat right when you let off the clutch. As soon as it fires up, make sure you pull the clutch back in quickly or it may catch you off guard.

 

[alittletoored]

The motor needs 3 things (compression, fuel, spark) to start, but only 2 need to be diagnosed here:

Try to start it for a few seconds, then quickly pull a spark plug out. Is the plug wet after you try to start it? If not, if you ground the plug against the motor and crank it, does it spark? If you can do that, this will be a lot easier to diagnose.

EDIT: nevermind, if its not turning over, then you have a different issue.

I'd try bump starting it first. It may take a few tries, so you might want a buddy to help push. Just put it in 2nd, get it moving pretty good, and bounce on the seat right when you let off the clutch. As soon as it fires up, make sure you pull the clutch back in quickly or it may catch you off guard.

She will bump start, so the issue is not the ECU or fuel pump. It has to be somewhere in the actual starting electrical system. IE fuseable link or sensor.
All of the atual fuses look good and the relay appears to work. Maybe one of the sensors is not giving it the appropriate feed back for it to allow the bike to start.

 

[Motogiro]

Check fuse #6 in the diagram. You will see all the components on the attached PDF diagram I'm attaching. These are the components related to the starter operation. Notice also #10 which is named starter interrupt. It looks as if this area would interrupt the starter operation but it is also part of the fuel injection logic. It looks to be one assembly with 2 relays and the interrupt relay section may have failed. You could also have a bad starter relay.
If you can do it safely you might put the bike in neutral. Maybe put it on the center stand. Key in the off position, and jump 12 volt directly to the starter. If it turns then you know you need to back track to where the circuit has failed.

 

[texcollect]

This may be way off the mark, but have you tried looking at the safety lock outs (clutch, Sidestand). Maybe the bike thinks it's in gear and the clutch isn't pulled in ??? When the dealership PDI'd my bike they forgot the clutch switch so it wouldn't start in gear even if I pulled the clutch in.

Just a thought.

 

[Motogiro]

She will bump start, so the issue is not the ECU or fuel pump. It has to be somewhere in the actual starting electrical system. IE fuseable link or sensor.
All of the atual fuses look good and the relay appears to work. Maybe one of the sensors is not giving it the appropriate feed back for it to allow the bike to start.

Are you hearing the starter relay? If you are the contacts might be toast or the starter motor itself has failed.

Do not do a starter jump test with the key on.

 

[charlietuna04]

I just went through this with my bike. Sometimes it would start, sometimes it wouldn't.
Are you getting a code on the speedometer when it doesn't start? That would be a good place to start. Mine was the kickstand switch. If you get a number 19 on the speedo, that's what it means. The code should still be on there, so if you turn the key look at the bottom of the display.
If it's a different number, look in the service manual for problem or post it.
Hope this helps.
Charlie

 

[segue00]

Check the clutch switch connector... unplug then re-plug in. Left handlebar.

 

[alittletoored]

Thanks for the replies guys. It is not the kickstand switch. However I have not ruled out the neutral saftey switch just yet.

As for now, I have to take some time away from it... The motor blew up in my truck... Bad WEEK!!!

 

[FinalImpact]

Are you hearing the starter relay? If you are the contacts might be toast or the starter motor itself has failed.

Do not do a starter jump test with the key on.

Although I'm new to this forum, not so new to life's issues. . .

You need to pull the battery and load test the battery. Batteries that sit for long periods of time may produce 12v but fail a load test. A quick test is to induce a load and measure the voltage. If you see the voltage drop to 3 or 4 volts across the terminals, the battery is likely shot. If you push the start button and the voltage does not change, its likely something else.

Example; it can run the FI and ECM but not crank the engine.
In detail, what all do you hear from the moment the key is switched to the run position and start position?

Also, if you get a click sound but no starter actuation, begin feeling all of the major connections from both battery posts. A warm area indicates resistance which equals voltage drop. Check all small ground wires too.
If there is no click and the battery load tests Good, find the small gauge wire going to the starter solenoid and measure the voltage when the start button is pushed. It should be 11+ or so.

 

[Ev018]

opps wrong thread sorry guys