Anyone fitted a 190 rear tyre to an FZ6?

[MarinaFazer]

I put a 190 tire on....ONLY because it was free. I then went to the track to test it. Yes, of course it was night and day compared to my squared off stock tire! But I agree that you could probably get more nimble with the 180.

all said and done, I'm very happy with the 190, but I'll be going back to a 180 when I have to pay again LOL. Since it's the first tire change since stock tires, I don't have a lot to compare it to except squared stock tires...bleh. But in my NON-professional opinion, it held on the track and allowed a great day. It won't hold you back depending on your level of riding

 

[Wolfman]

I was kidding ding-dong! :spank:

Oh i knew that.....but thought i wold have a rant anyway....as i get asked that silly question so freaking often....the answer is so obvious!

:thumbup:

 

[DefyInertia]

I'm pulling together some good references that discuss this very subject...keth code, sportrider mag, etc. TBD....

One quikc question though, did you notice a decrease in acceleration?

Isn't the tire more rounded from being squeezed onto a smaller rim?

No! Common misconception. The sidewall is the only thing to bend!

 

[Wolfman]

I'm pulling together some good references that discuss this very subject...keth code, sportrider mag, etc. TBD....

One quikc question though, did you notice a decrease in acceleration?

Not that i noticed, correct me if i am being dumb, but if the circumference of the tyre is bigger, isnt that akin to putting on a bigger rear sprocket?

 

[Hellgate]

Oh i knew that.....but thought i wold have a rant anyway....as i get asked that silly question so freaking often....the answer is so obvious!

:thumbup:

I thought you would appreciate that.

You could change your valve caps out and people will scream, "Why don't you get an R6???"

 

[Wolfman]

I thought you would appreciate that.

You could change your valve caps out and people will scream, \"Why don't you get an R6???\"

LMAO......I did that too today! Got the guy that fitted my tyre to put some of those nice 90 degree valves, with some nice chrome valve caps...

Better start shopping for that R6.....No it's more fun watching the R6 riders scratch their heads when they get rounded up by an FZ6....

:sinister:

 

[DefyInertia]

Not that i noticed, correct me if i am being dumb, but if the circumference of the tyre is bigger, isnt that akin to putting on a bigger rear sprocket?

No...just the opposite...you'll need to add teeth to the rear sprocket to maintain the same acceleration in a straight line. Ever notice small bore dirt bikes have really small rear wheels?

Same things applies when putting monster tires on a regular truck.

 

[Wolfman]

No...just the opposite...you'll need to add teeth to the rear sprocket to maintain the same acceleration in a straight line. Ever notice small bore dirt bikes have really small rear wheels?

Same things applies when putting monster tires on a regular truck.

I did not ride hard today, very gentle on the throttle, as i was scrubbing in the tyre, so there was no great indicator. Am waiting for a -2 (14) front sprocket, and a +1 rear sprocket, and new chain, doing a 520 conversion. presently running a 15 front, and standard rear at the moment.

So i guess that will help counteract any losses.

 

[Steph]

LMAO......I did that too today! Got the guy that fitted my tyre to put some of those nice 90 degree valves, with some nice chrome valve caps...

Better start shopping for that R6.....No it's more fun watching the R6 riders scratch their heads when they get rounded up by an FZ6....

:sinister:

At the risk of sounding like a knob....how much does it cost to get the 90 degree valve stems? Or do you have to get them done when you get new tires/tyres? I HATE getting my hands all black from the chain lube!!

 

[mstewar1]

Wolfman, from what you said about your compression damping setting, it does sound as if your rear spring is too light for your weight. I'd check into a heavier spring.

When we set the compression damping up into the higher end of its range we don't get the best characteristics from a damper. Think about the behavior of a spring this way: when a spring is at full length, uncompressed in any way, it offers/presents its full potential for use. It is at its most "supple" in this uncompressed state. As we crank spring pre-load (damping), we are compressing the spring through this initial, most supple state. If we go beyond half-way through our adjustment range, and higher, we end up compromising the ride quality of the damper as the inherent "spring-ness" of the spring is diminished. We are left working with (enjoying) much less of a spring than what we've paid for.

The other compression damping on a fine damper such as your Ohlins, some little blue knob that you're probably turning, is actually changing (restricting) the flow of oil through various orifices within the shock. When set with no or low compression damping, the oil within the damper is moving through, relatively, large orifices. The shock is easy to compress because as we do so, the oil is being channeled through big holes. But as we crank up the compression damping, we are changing the orifice size to smaller and smaller sizes, we're increasing the resistance of the shock to compression.

I'm not sure how the guts of an Ohlins are built. Shock manufacturers use a number of different means to create damping circuitry. But irrespective of the means by which they do so, generally speaking, the less damping pre-load we use, the better the damper will "feel."

Getting to the "sweet spot" is achieved by starting with the correctly sized damper and the correct spring rate for your body weight. Starting from there, the pre-load adjustments should be somewhat minimal and you should be able to notice behavioral changes in the damper from, relatively, minor adjustments.

Now, as for rebound. Here again, setting this too high can introduce undesirable ride qualities. There's a sweet spot with rebound, too. On bicycles we check this by how quickly the seat comes back up at us when we hit a bump. Yeah, I know, we're not talking about bicycles. But the behavior, the desired behavior, is the same. If the rebound is set too high, as you're riding the bike through the twisties it will have a tendency to feel too stiff in the rear. It will lack feel as, instead of remaining somewhere in the middle of its travel, moving up and down, absorbing bumps, the damper will shoot right back to full length. And that's no fun at all.

When cornering a motorcycle the desired behavior of the rear end is that it doesn't wallow first off (blow through the compression stroke right away) but then, on the rebound, that it doesn't just jump right back to full extension at its first opportunity. We want the damper to work with us, not against us, as we corner. So as we tip into a turn and accelerate as we hit the apex, hopefully we haven't slammed on the binders thereby totally upsetting the balance from front to rear. If we've gone into the corner smoothly, not shifting the balance abruptly from rear to front, then the rear damper should be poised to do its thing: provide us with smooth and predictable extension of the swingarm as power is applied.

I'm sure there's probably an engineer or true suspension guru on the forum who can explain this concept using more concise, professional terms, but hopefully I've managed to make my point. And I hope you'll forgive me if this is all a bit pedantic -- stuff you already knew.

 

[Wolfman]

Ok folks, i went for a decent ride tonight, and now that the trye is scrubbed in, i got stuck in.

Front trye pressure 34psi, Rear tyre, 37psi, more rebound damping, another click.....and now the bike is behaving beautifully, not a hint of wallow, bike is rock stable into corners, very easy to keep on line, and, or change line if needed. No squirming under brakes, and very settled, mid corner, allowing me to get on the throttle a lot quicker on the way out.

Bike is also very flickable, and feels planted whilst doing so, all in all, it's just how i want it.

Looks like it was a combination of a screwed rear tyre, and not enough rebound damping at the rear.

Phew...it has been a journey, but am now very happy with suspension...

Got the setting's right on my new Pazzo's as well, 5 for the clutch, giving a long lever pull, and great for when i need to feather the cluch. Brake lever set at 4 too, very short take up, which i also like.

All in all.....life is good again!

:rockon:

 

[wrightme43]

Its really not a big difference. Just the bead seat more than anything

55% of 180 is a 99mm sidewall.
50% of 190 is a 95mm sidewall.

Dunlop Tires | Care & Maintenance | Rim width and aspect ratio

Here is why I said it is too wide for our rim. ^^^

NOT KNOCKING YOU man. LOL
Just trying to let you know why its not recomended. Tires are amazing things that have everything to do with how our bikes, interact with the road.
The sidewalls are made a certian thickness, for a certain strength, and a certain angle relitive to the bead and tread. When you change that the design of tire is not right anymore.
Does it work? YEP.
Is it right. Nope.
The result is less seating area for the bead, increased side wall load and heat, and a greater chance of rim damage from pot holes.
Of course everything is over engineered. You can use a 2.5 ton jack to lift 3 tons but is it the right way to do it?
Again not knocking you man. I am all for you. I just want to make sure you know why its not recomended.

 

[Wolfman]

LOL,I did not think anyonecwas against me but I must say that I was taken aback by a couple of responses that were freaking out re my choice.had checked with a couple of knowledgable racer types around me that what I was proposing to do was not dangerous.so I knew I was not in danger.was hard finding a 190/55 as most people want 190/50's.am so happy with the result.handling is now right on the money.

Sometimes it pays to go out on a limb to get what you want and I have always liked to think outside the square.in this case it's a case of so far so good,which is not always the case.

Got a 400km ride through the twisties happening in the morning with 4 other riders- all with 20 years riding experience on a z1000,ducati 996,08 buss,and my favourite,a MT-01.

That lot should keep me honest and the ride should be a great opportunity to further explore my bike set up further.

 

[mstewar1]

Sweetness. Glad to hear it's treating you well. Let us know how she behaves on the ride.

By the way, I miss the orange. I guess I didn't vote often enough... In any case, your bike is looking awesome. You must be giggin' your hiney off to support your habit!

 

[FZ6OZ]

Has anyone here got a 190/50/17 tyre fitted instead of the 55. I have one and i wonder if i can put it on our bikes with out causing any problems

 

[fz6974]

i have also lowered my front forks one and a half inches and am making a set of drag bars also can u give me feed back on the bars

 

[MarinaFazer]

Has anyone here got a 190/50/17 tyre fitted instead of the 55. I have one and i wonder if i can put it on our bikes with out causing any problems

sorry man, wish I could tell ya! Talk to a moto racer or track junkie! Otherwise, here's a bump to maybe get you an answer!

 

[live2ride600]

OK So.... I finally gave in and went with a 190/50 because I was very curious as to how they would handle or change the bike. I went with them because I love the look of a fat rear tire and wanted the extra 10mm. I was nervous because of the bad reviews they have gotten on here but went with them anyways. I went with the Dunlop Roadsmarts. I got the set 120/70/17 front and 190/50/17 rear for 289.99 out the door including tax and shipping from tireexpress.com....They came REALLY fast. I ordered at 8pm on a tues night and they came thurs morning. I took two rides on them so far and have about 650 miles on them now. I LOVE THEM! Best tire I have ridden on by far. I had the BT021 on before this and they never really felt planted and I got wallow in the corners. I took it easy on the tires for 200miles or so and they were smooth as could be. I then went on a sporty ride up to idyllwild playing in all the twisties. I couldnt be happier with the 190s. They feel solid in the corners...more so than the 180 stones i had. I feel as though they are easier to turn into a corner and didnt slow it up at all. On the switchbacks its almost exactly the same and they flop over quite easily. All in all I love these tires and recommend them for anyone who loves the mountain roads

Tires doing well with no signs of wear at all. My dads tires got the sticky rubber all over the sides of his BT021s from pushing it hard to keep up with me. Mine used to do the same but hopefully I found a tire that will give me more milage than 4000-4500!!!!! My dad has ridden bikes for years and when he rode my bike he agrees and says thats what he is getting next for his 08 C-14

 

[logan77]

I have a 190 now. Its not that bad.

A bit harder to get that last part of the tire down...

-bryan

if that's in your living room you are my hero! :thumbup:

 

[gew]

wolfman,

if you're interested in playing around drop off the preload a click in the rear and cut 6-12mm off the spacers in the front (or change the spring). your sag settings are pretty drastic from my notes, but those are MY notes. also be aware that the more you drop the front and increase the pivot angle of the swingarm you are trading stability and braking power for fast transitions.
a great thing about the 190 is your getting the rear higher without putting on a forward bias, as opposed to changing the shock length or going with high preload.

for aggressive riding typical bikes generally need around 30mm rear and 30-40 range in the front depending on rider preference. as well new GSXR's and R6 are found to be so drastic from the factory that to set them up you must LOWER the rear and RAISE the front....yep its true. something to ponder.

:thumbup: