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08 FZ6 Condensed Build thread ~Final Impact~

They are bright but now I am thinking about some dimming the front position lights while running the indicators. I have this impression that the white light somehow overpowers the yellow one. If I could dim the white for the time when the indicators work it would be great.

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Done and my first video w/body parts! :popcorn::popcorn:

[video=youtube_share;H8ypOztW3qA]https://youtu.be/H8ypOztW3qA[/video]

I may have been moving the switch position a bit swiftly but you get the idea. I'll make a final post of a few assembly steps some time....

Now I need some brighter T10's in the pods. Anyone have some known good ones?

[MENTION=19634]Ohendo[/MENTION]
 
Great. Now I need to look at the drawings and do one myself :)

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Fantastic job on this FI! At first I didn't get what D3 was for then realized your set up and the logic in it. Great job on this build and documentation!
 
Done and my first video w/body parts! :popcorn::popcorn:

[video=youtube_share;H8ypOztW3qA]https://youtu.be/H8ypOztW3qA[/video]

I may have been moving the switch position a bit swiftly but you get the idea. I'll make a final post of a few assembly steps some time....

Now I need some brighter T10's in the pods. Anyone have some known good ones?

[MENTION=19634]Ohendo[/MENTION]

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...h-power-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/205/

I have these in the pods, used as running lights and turn signals.


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After much hibernation bike finally got a long run in today.
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Holidays finally here so maybe I will get to making these circuits for front indicators. Meanwhile I put a 1kiloohm resistor on rear pos lights - friends riding behind me kept complaining that they are too bright and braking light was not so much stronger. Now everything is better.

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Update and big thanks - I made the circuits both for front and rear. Now front positions switch off for the time when indicators turn on. With rear I did it with stop lights. Since position lights are already less bright by powering them through a resistor the brake light goes off anytime the left or right indicator switches on. So the yellow indicator light gets the best visibility :)

Oh, and did some lightning work on Kappa case :) This is what happens when I hit the brakes :)
3fabcf87eb85d70ed26b14c996b4f9ba.jpg

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Update and big thanks - I made the circuits both for front and rear. Now front positions switch off for the time when indicators turn on. With rear I did it with stop lights. Since position lights are already less bright by powering them through a resistor the brake light goes off anytime the left or right indicator switches on. So the yellow indicator light gets the best visibility :)

Oh, and did some lightning work on Kappa case :) This is what happens when I hit the brakes :)
3fabcf87eb85d70ed26b14c996b4f9ba.jpg

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You light up my life!!!

Good job! :thumbup:
Although a drag racer may mistake that Tree Light!!
 
[MENTION=23872]Marcin[/MENTION] how did the build and packaging go? Everything worked to plan? Hopefully there was enough info in the thread...
 
[MENTION=23872]Marcin[/MENTION] how did the build and packaging go? Everything worked to plan? Hopefully there was enough info in the thread...

Yes, the info is oerfect. I simply put parts one after another onto the pcb, soldered, connected and it worked :) one relay was bad - was making the switching sound but didn't switch so I had to replace it, but the rest went smoothly. This is the picture of the rear module - 2 in 1 for rear brake lights control.
2f2857a97eafff15d1a6cf3463944c22.jpg


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I was wondering - if you could somehow modify the circuit so instead of a big relay a small transistor is used? It would make the whole thing more compact and easier to hide somewhere under the fairings.
 
Do you happen to have a picture of how the S2 fender spacers work for the R6 fork mod? I can't find any surviving instructions and am a bit confused.

*update* Managed to get ahold of dako and he had some old PDF instructions someone had made. I'll get those uploaded with a picture as soon as I get my cuts cleaned up (didn't have a dremel handy, so had to do it with an angle grinder and some files).
 
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Something for later perhaps...
Oh my.... hit by the bug again.
OK - I did some calculations to see if theses values correspond to published values and they are super close.
I found an htm/java based compression ratio calculator I wrote 20 years ago. And ya, English units throughout most of it. lol


YEC OPTIONS:
5SL-11181-70, 0.40mm = 13.03:1
5SL-11181-75, 0.45mm = 12.87:1
5SL-11181-80, 0.50mm = 12.72:1
5SL-11181-85, 0.55mm = 12.55:1
5SL-11181-00, 0.60mm = 12.40:1
0.65mm = 12.27:1
-
5VX-11181-00-00, 0.70mm = 12.15:1
0.75mm = 11.97:1
0.80mm = 11.84:1

Bore: 65.55mm / 2.58"
Stroke: 44.5mm / 1.75"
Head Volume from 10.33cc to 10.93cc // used 10.6cc
Piston Skit Clearance: 0.001"
Dome/Dish Volume: used 0.49cc - Doesn't seem right though.

I have the code for this if anyone wants it and could convert it to metric if someone has a need. It's from my old V8 build days trying to figure out what head, piston, gasket would yield 10:1 CR.
View attachment 69610

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I was wondering - if you could somehow modify the circuit so instead of a big relay a small transistor is used? It would make the whole thing more compact and easier to hide somewhere under the fairings.

Oh dear, I never saw this. Sorry Marcin.
Yes, it could be done with FETs and ditch the switch. I used the relay for its off cycle too to reduce part count.
Let me know if you're still interested. Somehow I think you moved on....
 
Hey,
thanks for being interested. Well, my prototype version is doing just fine, I was simply thinking about making it as small as possible. So, if you ever have time, I'll appreciate the help, but don't feel under pressure - it's nothing important.
 
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