08 FZ6 Condensed Build thread ~Final Impact~

[FinalImpact]

An overview of one Raven bike and what's been done to it (mods) follow the links if the past is of interest. I bought Crisis used in March of 2011 w/4300 miles on the clock and NO mods i.e. bone stock! She's used mainly for exploring, playing, entertainment!

Spring of 2011 New to Me:

The first time I rode the FZ I knew the nose needed some suspension work done. It was first on my to do list and took 10mo to get some good forks up front. My primary complaint is the lack of any damping and how bumps in a corner change our lines. It was by far the best money spent on this bike after its purchase! See "R6 Fork, Best Investment EVER!"

Along the way some of the basics were done.

• Adjustable Black Levers
• R6 Fork, Best Investment EVER!
• FZ1 Bars - Painted Black (2D1-26111-01) and Spider Grips!
• Integrated Blinkers/Brake and Running Lights
• Tail Tidy - EvoTech (Stock Muff)
• Pod Lights - R1 sockets installed
• Headlight - to Dual
• Stickers - Gone
• Rear Sets - painted black-> Then Powder Coated Black 12mo Later
• Remove the Triple for Powder coat
• Polish those Headers! oh - Yah!! Denim Jeans & Mothers Mag Polish FTW!
• How to Install R1 Shock w/Pics
• Two Brothers Exhaust
• AIS Block off plates installed
• How to Fix Throttle Chop (by F/I)
• CAT killings - part one
• 20,000 mile valve adjustment Post 13, this thread. More detail in this thread - post 23
• CAT Killings - part two - S1 headers to S2 Chassis! (post 47 for pic)
• Bazzaz Z-Fi & Z-AFM Maps at 13.0:1 work Great! This thread!
• Rear Sets Isolation Bushings removed - Mount them solid (this thread)
• Build your tail tidy...

Summer of 2013:

Links to places we've been in the last couple of years:
**********************************************************
2012 - Look Where My FZ went Today At post 41!
2013 - Fizzer turned Adventure Bike
2014 - Adventures of Final Impact PNW rides, maps, friends

**********************************************************
--> Click Pic for Audio track!

**********************************************************
JJD952 Crisis

 

[FinalImpact]

2014-01-25 Settings as of this writing:

SUSPENSION SETUP:
Spring Sag:
FRONT: 31 mm R6 Fork
REAR: 29 mm R1 coil over, FZ6 Spring

Stanchion tube depth from triple: 8 mm (tube not cap)
Front Compression (bottom): 7 t/o
Front Rebound (top): 8 t/o
Front Free spring Length: 251 mm
Fork oil wt; 7.5

Spring installed height: 170 mm
Rear Compression (top): 11 t/o
Rear Rebound (bottom): 12 t/o
Oil wt: 10 (stock is 5 wt)
Charge at: err, can't find it but its 50 PSI more than stock.

Yamaha FZ6 Forum Community _ Gas Pressure in your Shocks | Kaz Technologies

Tires:
Bridgestone S20 front: 34 - 34.5 PSI seems optimal
Bridgestone BT023 rear 37 PSI


General Maintenance done:
Fork oil dumped after 2 years. Oil was remarkably clean, unlike the oil I dumped from the forks when I bought them which was near blacks with loads of small silver specs.

Critical Step during re-assembly of fork, set lock nut depth to 11.0 mm to center the rebound valve in relation to the fork cap:

Tail end of caliper is 11 mm:

Damage control of wood floor....

YUMMMM! 10wt Seasoned Cooking oil!

Custom brackets to mount stock fender on R6 Forks:

Enlarged slot for dropping fender over brackets:

Other items done, calipers cleaned and brakes bled. Axle, seals, forks cleaned and assembled with grease / loctite where needed.

 

[FinalImpact]

Next project; Tail Tidy for Two Brothers Exhaust:
The Two Brothers exhaust on the bike came with a TT and it's ok but it lacks fore/aft support and is bouncing in the breeze under me as the big V shaped bracket doesn't fit under the OVAL pipes!

GOAL:
Replace tail tidy with aluminum powder coated design
Support Tail Tidy
Secure pod mounts

Project gained traction in the WTB thread: http://www.600riders.com/forum/bike...tail-bracket-support-big-u-shape-see-pic.html :thumbup::thumbup: Thanks Everyone!

Get rid of this:

Replace w/something like this (card board Demo) w/LED:

I picked up a spare bracket and will cut the ends off throwing the rest away so the plastic with grommets for the sides pods have support.

LIKE SO!

Then I'll add a single mounting point for the TT from under the seat.

Need to acquire some 0.125" aluminum plate and transfer template.

Edit, done....
Made one from 0.125" aluminum...
Still needs powder coated and it hasn't been a priority!

 

[FinalImpact]

Next on the chopping block... Well, blocking up the air induction...

 

[FinalImpact]

Video gone wrong - sharing AUDIO ONLY of FZ6 with Two Brothers Slip on cans. Shot through tinted windscreen on Stupid Phone. It's ~8 min long. Was an MP3 192bpm Stereo.

Two Bro Sound Clip (mp3) from FZ6

Anyone wanting to know how the Two brothers Exhaust SOUNDS on an stock FZ6, this is it! Still has Pre-CAT and post CAT.

~ 1:10 good pull up through 3 gears to ah - higher speeds
~ 5:30 is a pleasant double dip gear selection 4->3 ->2
~ 6:05 a sweeper, on it!!!
~ 7:45 launch through 3 gears, redline was close I suspect!!

- terrain is up hill, down hill, back road, country road, flat land and I chopped up the audio as there were some long straights in there.
- Audio is from Motorola Razr HD
- Note: it appears you can click in the browser and any selection (shows a wave form)! Works better than I expected!!
- PS - It's SNOWING and layer of Freezing rain outside! I'm STUCK HERE AND I'M BORED!!!
====
EDIT: Added this... Its 16 min of FZ sounds to help you sleep! Its a lullaby!
https://soundcloud.com/fz6-rippedmp3/vid-20131024-chop1 now to get a real vid recorder!

====
Tags: Yamaha FZ6, Two-Brothers, 2Bro, Sound, Audio, Clip

 

[Carlos840]

Great sound!

To be honest it sounds exactly like what i get when riding mine with a Leo Vince exhaust!
I mean it sounds like what i get in my helmet when riding!

Not sure i could tell he difference between the two!

 

[FinalImpact]

2014-04 Notes

Recoding some suspension info....
A nice read about setting the bike up: Motorcycle Suspension Set-up

FZ6 2014-04 Spring Settings

Front Static: 20.6 mm
Front Rider: 33.3 mm

Rear Static: 12.7 mm
Rear Rider: 44.4 mm << need to verify with a helper. Either my adjuster moved, the spring lost tension, or there was measurement error. I suspect the later doing this by myself.

Usable range of travel:

Travel, Front R6: 120 mm (4.7")
122 - 20.4 = 101.6 mm travel available
122 - 33.0 = 89.0 mm travel available (3.5" of 4.7")
============================

Travel, Rear R1 Shock to FZ6 S/A: 165mm (6.5") **possible**
165 - 12.7 = 152.3 mm travel available
165 - 44.4 = 120.6 mm travel available
High Durometer bumper installed to limit travel to 145 mm (5.7")
145 - 12.7 = 132.3 mm travel available
145 - 44.4 = 100.6 mm travel available

** Not ideal but I've never bottomed the rear out or used the full travel to the bumper. Also, the OEM coil does not stack when compressed to the full travel of the shock. That is why this works even though its possible for it to have more travel then the FZ6 shock.
============================

One article says Street bikes need 10 - 15 mm of static sag.
>10mm = need higher rate springs
<10mm = need lower rate springs

============================
Note: FZ6 shock is 50 mm travel vs R1 65mm travel. FZ6 OEM 130mm (5.12"), R1 shock is harder into bumper at 57mm of travel.

 

[FinalImpact]

Next on the chopping block... Well, blocking up the air induction...

Finally got around to the block off plates. Pretty straight forward and I did some cleaning while there. Also - the FZ doesn't seem to care about the loss of the solenoid as the ECM isn't checking for continuity from the AIR INDUCTION SYSTEM SOLENOID (AISS). So its laying on the floor!
I also did some other testing on the bike regarding load both key on and key off. I found it interesting, but thats just me. See - post 14 --> http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/52362-draw-killing-battery.html


Spare parts....

AISS Block Off Plates Installed:

The plates I used use the OEM seal to seal them. As such, the reeds stay in the valve cover. It's nice to see Yama'r placed a cage around them should they destruct they likely won't find their way back into the engine.

These port through the valve cover, into the head, and down to the exhaust port. They must be blocked for a Dyno run or it throws off the AFR / CO readings in the exhaust making it look lean when its not.

FWIW: Air box removal is best done with a 6" 4mm ball head Allen wrench. From the ball head to the socket is 6.5". So a long reach Allen is really handy. Yes, I welded that POS together from scraps...

Looking into the Exhaust ports past the valves stem you can see the ports from the valve cover:

 

[FinalImpact]

More tweaking..... $6.00 midpipe with a shine. Almost looks HD compatible! lol
Even with Two Bro 005-P1X tips in, it sure wakes up the Two Bro pipes.... A nice Crisp Sound now!

Weight reduction in progress. Perk is throttle response. 10min of TIG work and 30min to polish...

Old midpipe comes out w/out major disassembly! :thumbup:

Ever wonder about those strange burning smellls? A new drain hole was created!

 

[FinalImpact]

[MENTION=14469]motojoe122[/MENTION]

The changes made paid off!!! Throttle chop is NEAR NONEXISTENT!!! So I'm very happy with the combined results of a few simple mods!

As of 2014-10-03:
1) CAT delete w/a straight through mid-pipe.
2) Advance timing 5.0°
3) Add fuel by means of CO adjust From 0/0 to 38/38 < my case...
4) ->> 89 - 91 Octane fuel ALWAYS (USA grading)
?) AISS plates. Not sure if they help this. However, by not adding air at the exhaust valves when throttle plates are closed, the exhaust should retain a lower pressure and thus, pull in gases better (think scavenge). So, these may in fact help this.

Bike is happy, rider is VERY HAPPY! Its just a pleasure to ride and will likely keep it for another season and continue to tinker and see what can be done to the little 600 to bring its performance up...

This winter may get it a port job, pre-cat removal from headers, and thinner head gasket to bump the compression. Drop in some CR10E plugs and the Bazzaz F/I controller and see how she does! ​

Lovable features:
+ Throttle response - engine tracks throttle position much quicker.
+ Clutchless shifting is cake (due to better throttle response)
+ Low RPM rewet - although not 100% fixed, I'm going to say the typically rider would not have a complaint much less notice.
+ Throttle input is smooth, i.e. roll-on throttle action more more linear even pull from lower RPMs. i.e. Pulls better from 5K to 10K!
+ 0 to 100 pull is better. Its breathing. No proof except factory installed @ss dyno....
+ Two Bro pipes have a nice sharp crackle.
+ Engine temps unchanged from stock.
+ Fuel MPG didn't take huge hit. Advancing the timing helps this.

Drawbacks:
- Plus or better grade fuel required
- Idle RPM seems to vary a little more with temperature. Need to investigate.

Playing with Trigger:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...imppact-winter-project-playing-w-trigger.html

De-CAT:

AISS removal:

How - To CO Mod....

Noticeable changes from C1/C2 = 0/0 to 25/25 -- later to 38/38

Idle speed dropped about 200 RPM (it richened the mixture)
Off idle throttle response improved both static and via @ss dyno 1st - 4th
In addition:
- it pulls smoother
- it pulls quicker
- max power change ??? Its not like head snap, but it sings a pleasant song now....
- pipe are popping more indicating unburned fuel is present!
* now we can go back and play with the trigger wheel some more!

Some added info just in case someone wants to do this.
1) Pull the main power from the top of the battery by removing this connector. (See Attached)

2) Pull the clear connector apart like OP stated.

3) Push out rubber plug. (see attached) -->> CO thread elsewhere

4) Insert test lead into socket. (see attached)

5) Plug socket together. Confirm connection.
I used to test lamp to ground to ensure I did not inadvertently short anything. If I did, this 12V lamp would light as the other side is shorted to ground. With the key on, the lamp did not light and when ohm'd to ground, the connection to the ECM indicated to 1600 ohms. SO, that is my way of knowing I had a valid connection. Its time to proceed!

6) Reconnect main harness power. Follow process, of key on, holding and pushing buttons 8sec etc.

7) Record values C1/C2

8) Change values and test drive OR just look if you need to know. So, I set the values to 25/25 using a test lamp instead of straight wire and the ECM responded as expected.

9) Remove probe and insert plug to keep moisture out. FWIW: I can pull the plug easily now and stick a probe in there for minor tweaks.

Why did I document this? Because the 12v test lamp is a valid means of getting that wire to ground AND doing it SAFELY without fear of damaging something by shorting it out. The concern here, is IF there were changes by Yamaha along the way and I could DAMAGE MY ECM, its very likely that test lamp would be lit indicating I was ABOUT TO GROUND +12V and short something that should not be shorted! Make sense? Also, as a rule of thumb, something that indicates resistance like this did (1600 ohms) tells me its nearly safe to short it. Plus it has very tiny wires. If it read like 3 ohms and we apply 12.5V, that could be hazardous 12.5/3ohms = 4.1 AMps (not good).

TOOL:

INSERT:

NEW OPTION:

That sums it up.... The 07 - 09 will respond nicely w/out a fuel controller added. Just read the voltage directly from the O2 sensor and thats what the ECM is getting (I'll talk about this later). Although fueling is not optimal for max power (12.8:1) it is suitable for canyon carving now that the chop is gone and throttle response has improved!

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Man, I didn't know that I wanted to advance my timing until I read that damn thread. Also, I'm going to talk to a buddy I work with and find out if he has a mandrel bender. The guy is a welding machine and I'd love to give a decat/single side exhaust a try. [emoji1]

 

[FinalImpact]

It's valve adjustment time! New shim kit came in so I inspected 20 of the 47 sets to see the average variation in thickness from the HCSHIM01 (7.48mm dia) kit.

Most all of the shims from vary no more than +/-0.003mm (+/- 0.00011) from the listed value! That's pretty good! The OD varies a bit but those measured are all below 7.48mm so none will be getting stuck!

Temps are above 40°F so there may be hope of doing this on the weekend if my degree wheel gets here in time.

 

[FinalImpact]

Valve adjustment is DONE! :thumbup:
All of the exhaust valves were too loose and out of spec! Intakes were OK! Those seem pretty stable! :thumbup:
Maybe it's from too much of this:

How it all went down! Notice 1L, 1R, & 3R. All exceeding spec which resulted in "tap tap tap" you could hear.

^^ Chart made it easy to pick a middle of the road "Desired Spec" of 0.27mm on the exhaust and quickly pick shims and KNOW the Expected clearance once assembled!



ONE HOUR TO GET HERE (slide show tear down to valve cover off):

Naked Look! Ready to go back together!

 

[FinalImpact]

Work in progress sound tracks.....

2014-11-2X audio via MP3... Notice Tick is gone from valve adjust.
0:00 - 1:30 = warm start and warm up - no tick!
3:15 = pull from 4500 to 12K ** Throttle response **is the best its ever been!
4:00 = hail storm trashes road! Cruise till parked.
7:10 - foot slipped, double clutch
7:20 = Walk around - tick is gone!
CLICK --> Soundcloud MP3 After Valve Adjust .. .. .. less raspy, little to no backfire (pop), & it pulls good!

2014-10 = CAT Delete
Exhaust tone CAT-Delete, Ignition Advance and same recording device... Crisis on her way to hibernation/winter rest
CLICK --> SoundCloud MP3 2014-10 DeCAT

2014-04 walk around for Valve Tick, 48 Secs. Taps can easily be heard in the first 12 seconds and last 8 seconds. i.e. its most noticeably at the beginning and end.
CLICK --> SoundCloud MP3 Cam lash taps (before adj)...


From 2013 Before Trigger Mod and CAT Delete....
CLICK --> SoundCloud MP3 Two Bro FZ6

There - all in one place.... ^^

************************
This could be the last polish on these. The rock chips make them feel like the asphalt itself.... Also the rocks though the headers have removed the paint from the oil pan... Its that bad. Fender extender anyone?

Old Denim being put to use!

 

[FinalImpact]

[MENTION=25723]ChanceCoats123[/MENTION]
IIRC its 304 but may have been 316 SS. Its welded vs seamless.
I bought a 36" long section as it wasn't much more than a 24" piece...

1.75" OD x .065" Wall x 36" Length

The CAT on the S1 is less than 6.0" long while the S2 is closer to 7.5". As best I can tell the OEM pipe is not manderal bent as you can see it has some oval shape too it once cut. So once cut you may need to massage it until its round to match your new pipe. Especially if you go long and get into the bend for your weld. I just used some unknown SS wire to TIG it together. It seemed to weld find. You do want to clean the old pipe pretty well with emery cloth or a new SS wire brush (something) that has not been used on steel or aluminum. You don't want contaminants as that make it splatter. The better the joint of the two parts (no gap) , means less filler rod.

Hope that helps!
Have fun! Oh - if you don't have distributor in your area, you can order via amazoo but it'll cost you more in shipping than the SS tube itself! Also, a reputable muffler shop may have some 6" scraps for pennies....

 

[FinalImpact]

Time for new springs and seals.... Bike sag is greater than desired so it seems like good time to pull the forks apart. I could just drop the springs in but thought I'd go into more detail.

2004 R6 Forks internals....

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/54545-question-about-fork-bushes.html

I was able to use a long screw driver and retain the cartridge. Lets see if that works for assembly purposes...

 

[FinalImpact]

S1 headers came in the mail!
I've got some cleaning to do as well as weld in an O2 bung and another mount.
S2 mounts in the center. S1 to the side.

The Goal, get rid of the harsh 90° turn at the exit and the mini cats...

Out with the old (harsh 90°).....

 

[FinalImpact]

Well that was very mean of them!!! Now to mod the header or grind the oil sump??

Me thinks - SUMP will loose this battle!

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Really cool exhaust port pictures there!

I see you have a clearance issue, but do you also have a length problem too?

 

[FinalImpact]

That's not what she said! Haha Blah

And now i haz more issues.... Who welds aluminum? :spank::spank: figured that nub could handle nore than a cpl file strokes. Nope! oh my is it thin.

Mega fail! Pan is leaking. Oh well, either an S1 pan or weld it. Lets see what it takes to fill in that cavity.
Its got 3qts of fresh oil in it too!