08 FZ6 Condensed Build thread ~Final Impact~

[fazil]

You swapped s2 header with s1. Is this just because of S2 header pipe had an 90 degrees turn ?
I know nothing about headers, 2 into 1, 4 into 2 etc.
Can someone explain the function of these pipe routes ?

 

[ChanceCoats123]

You swapped s2 header with s1. Is this just because of S2 header pipe had an 90 degrees turn ?
I know nothing about headers, 2 into 1, 4 into 2 etc.
Can someone explain the function of these pipe routes ?

The S2 header also had a couple of pre-cats which obstructed flow. The S1 headers never had these. So now he absolutely nothing stopping exhaust flow from the ports all the way back to his two Bros mufflers. It should flow a damn good amount of air now.

 

[FinalImpact]

You swapped s2 header with s1. Is this just because of S2 header pipe had an 90 degrees turn ?
I know nothing about headers, 2 into 1, 4 into 2 etc.
Can someone explain the function of these pipe routes ?

S2 factory header has 2 Catalytic converts in it and that Nasty bend. Thats 2 strikes against it! So yes, S2 bike with S1 Header! :thumbup:

Look here you can see everything....

Right side is S2 with CATs...

Configuration is: is 3X2-into-1, but some might call it a 4 into 1 which is mistaken IMO.

===== 2 -into- 1 -> \
......................----- 2 -into- 1 --->>> exit
===== 2 -into- 1 -> /

It depends on the engines firing order as to which Primary Tubes are paired if any. As sometimes its just not practical to pair them by firing order. The goal of good set of headers is to Scavange or pull AIR INTO the Combustion chamber by using the last cylinder fired to suck air into the adjacent pipe through the collector.

A cheap V8 header is often times 4 primary pipes into 1 collector and there is one for both sides.

Before throwing the header on the bike I wanted to remove any loose debris in the primary pipes so i used compressed air to blow into each pipe. The S1 header pulls a nice vacuum on the pipe its paired with.
i.e. blow into #1 and #2 has a very strong scavenging vacuum. 3 and 4 also have a fair vacuum but not as strong as the "Y" pair.
Its the same principal as a basic paint gun using a venturi to create a vacuum and suck the paint out of the can. High velocity air flow can create suction over an opening.

Doing this to the S2 header and the air flow is impaired by the mini CATs that there is hardly a vacuum signal at all in the adjacent pipe. In my book I have three wins by moving back in time and getting an early assembly on there.

PS bike is also running colder single ground strap CR10E plugs... Lets see how they look in after some miles.

 

[fazil]

Thanks for the info. Moving back in time is nice
Did you feel any change in torque?

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ Didn't ride it too far is was pouring rain and very cold. It will likely be a while based upon the current weather forecast.

On the Bazzaz site for 07-09 FZ6 they have this posted. I'd guess its why the S2's do well with mods w/out fuel controllers as it appears the OEM ECU keeps it decently rich. Notice AFR is ~12.5:1 at the happy spot.

Also the only place the stock map is > greater than 14:1 is at 4000 RPM or less. If this is accurate, not a lot of gains for S2 folks other than potential fuel economy.
If I had to guess, it explains how the CO mod, fills the hole down low from idle to 3k and then the O2 sensor takes over. When you look at MAPS for the FZ most are taking fuel away on the S2 maps....

In short, its why I've gotten away with what I've done here.

Folks - Post here and lets see those fuel maps! --> POST your Tune Map, Bazzaz, PCIII, PCV - AutoTune, Z-AFM

 

[FinalImpact]

Materials List for S1 header swap:
S1 Header - 5VX-14602-00-00, EXHAUST PIPE COMP. $50
O2 Bung M18 - 1.5, Vibrant Performance, VIB 1194A $6
SS Mid Pipe, 1.75" OD x .065" Wall x 12" Length, $6
S1/S2 CAT - needed the ends, $0
Header, rear mount from S1 chassis:

• 90109-082A1-00; BOLT
• 90201-086P8-00; WASHER, PLATE
• 5VX-21446-10-00; STAY, MUFFLER
• 4XV-27424-00-00; DAMPER, MUFFLER
• 90387-082W9-00; COLLAR

1 X 6, Deschutes Black Butte Porter :thumbup:

Work: lift tank, disconnect O2 sensor, drop S2 exhaust and mid-pipe, drop pan, weld pan from inside. File pan flat, spray a patch of high temp black on the area removed. Clean pan, block, mating surfaces and install. Tq in criss cross pattern making a couple of passes. While header is off, weld in SS bung unless you're going get a tune. Install header and begin fitment of mid pipe.

Weld up sunken section at back of pan here:
View attachment 55956

PS - I left the 2bro slip ons in place without moving them but I did loosen the mid-pipe top mount at the frame.
Using an exhaust pipe cutter, chop out bulge. Hint: After market parts tend not to use the quality of connectors between the pipes that Yamaha had on there. Thus they can induce vibrations if not aligned perfectly. Its why I sacrificed parts to make the delete section.

Fit the remaining ends to bike. Take a measurement and fit a section of SS pipe in the middle. Index and remove for welding (if you don't have the equipment needed). Otherwise disconnect battery and tack in place.
View attachment 55953 View attachment 55954 View attachment 55955

As mentioned above, you could swap pans to an early pan and then its just nuts and bolts. That said, I now have a spare S1 pan if someone needs one. Vanity side of me said its difficult to match OEM powder coat black so I opted to weld up a quarter sized area filling in the hole in the S2 pan.
S1 pan PN: 1B3-13417-00-00; COVER, STRAINER. Got it on fleebay just in case things didn't go well in the form, fit, function, arena.

Side note: nothing was found in my pan which I was delighted to observe! Also, Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle oil does not clean and dissolve with lacquer thinner. It won't touch it. MAF sensor is the ticket. Point: it resists solvents pretty well!

It feels like the ECM has adapted to the changes; also a Volt meter to O2 sensor indicates its copping, but I fear this may be more than the engineers had in mind. So she's going to get a fuel controller as I don't want it to run lean. That's it for now.

EDIT: ATTACHMENTS ARE GONE - Basic concept is here...

Wide Band O2 Sensor for Z-AFM:

Conflict:

 

[FinalImpact]

Finished product and a little joy ride (below)!
Off hand, the biggest improvement has to be the off the line response. PULLS MUCH better! And coming out of corner there is Zero throttle chop! Although I have to admit thats somewhat of a lie as a carb'd bike is smoother there!

I have no regrets! Worth every penny!

Wind was so strong here it nearly blew the bike over! Made me leap as she was moving!

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Man that is such a sleeper of a bike... Don't get me wrong, it looks awesome. But no one (aside from a select few who know where to look) could ever tell the amount of work done to that bike to really give it some oomph. I love it!

 

[FinalImpact]

Man that is such a sleeper of a bike... Don't get me wrong, it looks awesome. But no one (aside from a select few who know where to look) could ever tell the amount of work done to that bike to really give it some oomph. I love it!

Thanks man!
Next on the chopping block is 48 tooth rear sprocket and adding the Bazzaz hardware; Z-Fi mapper Z-AFM logger.

Sadly, the local speed shop (won't name names like they do), but they make race bikes and they said they can't check the timing under load. And these guys build race bikes? haha!!

I figured if they could get the data I can't (ign curve under load/dyno), I'd also pay them to map it. If they can't do that, I'm thinking why bother! I'll throw a fat map at it and subtract fuel until I get it dialed.

FWIW: I love sleepers. The unsuspecting vehicles in the crowd! :thumbup:

 

[fazil]

I have a question about oil pan.

I bought a used spare oil pan recently. When i opened the box, i saw debris in it like an astray. Very dirty black tiny metal debris all over the pan. Is this normal? Then i thought, if my bikes oil pan is like that, oil pump may stuck someday.
Did you see any debris when you swap them?

 

[FinalImpact]

I have a question about oil pan.

I bought a used spare oil pan recently. When i opened the box, i saw debris in it like an astray. Very dirty black tiny metal debris all over the pan. Is this normal? Then i thought, if my bikes oil pan is like that, oil pump may stuck someday.
Did you see any debris when you swap them?

"Normal" as in, "when the ENGINE BLOWS UP" yes. But for people who take care of their stuff, that would be "ABNORMAL!!"

Grey matter is likely the engines bearings. I was thankful to see nothing in my oil pan. Clean as whistle except a tiny string of silicone. And I use the bare minimum and only apply to the outer edges. Not sure if it was OEM stuff or something I did. The sealant used on the RS cover was greyish. This was black. I think its OEM and been there since she came to life.

That looks like an S2 pan (black), isn't your bike an S1?

 

[fazil]

This pan is the one that i bought as a spare. My bike is S1 and grey as you said. I bought it from UK, so there are black S1 bikes may be.

I am not sure if this part is S1 or S2. They look similar to me.
I realized that oil pans are different after i read your thread.

 

[FinalImpact]

This pan is the one that i bought as a spare. My bike is S1 and grey as you said. I bought it from UK, so there are black S1 bikes may be.

I am not sure if this part is S1 or S2. They look similar to me.
I realized that oil pans are different after i read your thread.

Its an S1. The S2 doesn't have that square cut out towards the rear!
S2's have a hang down pointer at the rear where that one has sunken square section.

You wanna trade? Blah
Shipping would cost more than the pan itself. I have a silver S1 pan now that I really don't need. I may powder coat it black and see how it holds up.

 

[fazil]

That's good news.

Shipping won't be too much, weights less than 2kg means it is cheap. We can do that if neccessery. But i can paint it grey also.

Do you make powder coating yourself?

 

[FinalImpact]

Got them from Prismatic Powders. Just don't expect Yamaha Black to be BLACK! Its more like YAMAHA BROWN! It was not Black at all. Not sure what they did but it was a horrible match and it has too much metallic in it.

I ended up mixing Gloss Black + Flat Black + "Yamaha Black" to do the triple and rear sets, brake and shifter. It came out very close the actual S2 black.
The passenger sets are the matching reference.

LIES ALL LIES....
YAMA BLACK, Item: PMB-5718

Description: A black with a metallic finish
Prismatic Powders: PMB-5718 YAMA BLACK


EDIT: See post 56 below:
FLASH ACTIVATES THE Metallic bits in the finish... It does have slightly more gloss, but in the sun the bike gets plenty of kind words!
This and the picture above were taken at the same time but this is without flash.

PS - Two full seasons on the P/Crear sets. Boots have not worn through! :thumbup: Paint barely made it 4 months.

Match here is good enough for me!

 

[fazil]

i see.
passenger sets are not glossy like the other ones.
May be it would be better not using any gloss black in it.
I always use spray can Ral 9005 water based matt black colour for painting.
But it's not that strong as original paint.

 

[FinalImpact]

Rear sets are no longer suspended in rubber. Perhaps few more vibes, but we're going to end the nonsense of mobile pegs...
Installed 4 aluminum bushings in place of the rubber isolation.

Hint - start with an 1/8" drill and drill between the core and the shell. The goal being to weaken the shell until it cracks. Then pop the bushing out. I had to go up a drill size each on two of the 4 bushings. Beyond that, they came out very easy with just a couple taps of the hammer and a drift.

EDIT: Safety note:
If you remove these bushings using this method; notice I drilled through the outer shell and made contact with the rear sets. Also notice I DRILLED IN A SECTION WITH REINFORCEMENT!!! NOT on the outer edge!!!
Look close here:


PS - Yes, you can press them out from either side. I chose not to as I didn't want to mess up the powder coat by pressing on the surface.

 

[FinalImpact]

Fuel Management: Don't follow the directions verbatim.
Reliability is important so I wrote the manufacture and asked about the Fuse rating requirement for the fuel controller. The instructions state to Clamp on to the "TAIL LAMP CIRCUIT" downstream of the 10A fuse to power the Bazzaz Z-Fi Fuel Controller (FC).

Guess what size the manufacture suggest the FC have? A 10A fuse! BAZZAZ - this is STUPID! If I follow your directions and brake light circuit pops the fuse, my engine dies and I am at ask risk!! Relying on the BRAKE FUSE to power the FC (ah - fuel injectors), that's just STUPID!

Folks, don't follow everything to the letter from Manufactures. This clearly needs its OWN fuse from a switched source. :thumbup:

Taillight fuse 10.0 A (OEM)
Fuel injection system fuse 10.0 A (OEM)
Bazzaz FC Fuse 10.0 A (Add on)

Just thought I'd share...

Item is: Bussman BP/HHH-RP

EDIT: 2015-02-06 = FUSED SOLUTION!

To power this mess!!!

 

[fazil]

Did you ride with new aluminyum bushings yet? How does it feel?

I've changed my bike's rear sets last summer. Removing those bushings was a pain but i didn't use any drill, i used some heat before the operation to soften the rubber part then just hammer and some drive sockets to push them out.

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ Ya! Its not a WOW kinda change until you settle into a good twist and realize your fit are stationary or if you shift standing up which I do on occasion (rough roads and what not).

Added perk is shifting is more responsive without the sets squirming. I'll leave it! :thumbup: