~~~ What did you do to your Bike Today Thread??? ~~~

New rear numberplate and secure fixings! :D

Out for a ride around the countryside twisties, got home and realised number plate had fallen off.. (it was definately there when I left) How this happened I do not know..

Back out in the car to retrace steps up and down the road three times could not find it.. I did find two other number plates that were not mine though! :D I guess it bounced into high grass or hedge..
 
Dropped off bar ends/weights for new powder-coat yesterday!

Should be done today!

Im not sure what that cost you but if you have a means to bead blast the surface, you are almost there.
PC guns are cheap $100
Grab a used toaster oven good for 450F or so and you're set. Basiclly anyone who has an air compressor and you can DIY!
Triple, bar clamp, bars, rear sets, shift shaft lever, and tail tidy all done at home. OEM pegs to but I replaced them with knurled and anodized. Anyway, Powder is $20 and even a cheapo HF PC gun will do the trick.
 
Im not sure what that cost you but if you have a means to bead blast the surface, you are almost there.
PC guns are cheap $100
Grab a used toaster oven good for 450F or so and you're set. Basiclly anyone who has an air compressor and you can DIY!
Triple, bar clamp, bars, rear sets, shift shaft lever, and tail tidy all done at home. OEM pegs to but I replaced them with knurled and anodized. Anyway, Powder is $20 and even a cheapo HF PC gun will do the trick.

I've been doing business with the owner for over a decade and watched his business
grow to a huge VERY successful business.
West Coast Powder Coating, Inc. - Fort Myers FL - Welcome to West Coast Powder Coating Online

I'd be surprised if it wasn't a freebie.. But I'll throw him a couple of bucks..

They'll be done this Saturday am, (satin black), so a good reason for a ride...


6-4-16. Got them back and installed, look brand new!!!
 
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took delivery of a new brand of bar riser/set backs
different dimensions to the Motech so we'll see how they go
The Naked has a different routing of throttle and clutch cables as it's all hidden behind the headlight so everything is a little tighter than the faired version.

Hopefully this weekend we have time to have a play!
 
took delivery of a new brand of bar riser/set backs
different dimensions to the Motech so we'll see how they go
The Naked has a different routing of throttle and clutch cables as it's all hidden behind the headlight so everything is a little tighter than the faired version.

Hopefully this weekend we have time to have a play!
so it took until today to fit the bar risers, and I have to say the dimensions work this time I can get the bars into the groove in the risers and I can turn lock to lock without stretching cables or wiring
So that was all really good. I was about to head out for a spin to try them out and got on the bike and thought oooh this is wrong, not the bars set up, but the seat height and the bike was as heavy as to move.
wasn't til I sat on it ,that the flat tyre was soooo evident. Out with the treadly pump and got 7psi into the tyre. Then a air bulb thingy got it up to 15psi. A call to my Yamaha mechanic to check if he had a hoop and a drive via the local servo across town befor it went down again. $300+ later I have a new PR4 to scrub in

But the risers work a treat- I like the ergonomics, bit more upright, better reach, just need to get my mirrors where I like them
 
Hey has anyone found that their footpegs start to get a little forward angle on them, I found mine did when I was fitting metal inserts instead of the rubber ones ( thanks again Jerry)
To try and remedy this,
I have glued (with epoxy resin) a small 20x30mm piece of sheetmetal where the peg rests, to get them to sit in the original spot— hopefully it holds up.


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That seems odd. Is the hole turning oval shape and peg pivot all wearing?

You have the setback plates. Did you mount the sets solid? I did as I hated the squishy feeling. I knocked the bushings out and replaced them with solid aluminum.
 
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Hi Randy, the pivot hole is still true, its the two little flanges that act as the "stop" on the inner and under side of the peg.basically when ever the peg is flicked up and then comes back to its normal resting point. Those two litttle bits of the peg look like they have been hitting for some time and have flattened out. I'll try and add a pic to this thread at lunch time, so you can what I m thinking of.footpeg 1.jpgfootpeg 2.jpg

You can see the litte bit of metal I added.
 
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I am still running the rubber bushes- i dont mind that little bit of flex in the pegs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hey has anyone found that their footpegs start to get a little forward angle on them, I found mine did when I was fitting metal inserts instead of the rubber ones ( thanks again Jerry)
To try and remedy this,
I have glued (with epoxy resin) a small 20x30mm piece of sheetmetal where the peg rests, to get them to sit in the original spot— hopefully it holds up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Funny - yes I just noticed this the other day. Didn't investigate yet, but maybe you and FI can do the heavy lifting and I'll sneak in behind
 
When I replaced mine with aftermarket they had the opposite problem and I ended up filling a bit off the peg.
These do have great grip.

My boots have rubber between the heel ans toe and combined with h2o and oem peg was treacherous. I swapped them out and bushed the sets solid. I hate the movement so that stopped that.
 
So during the last year I have been a bit negligent on maintenance because of quitting the Air Force, moving to Germany and starting a new job here. But finally found the time to get the bike going again. So over the last weekend I did:
Clean the chain thoroughly! Was really dirty with dust and grease. Now clean and shiny, well lubricated and put to the right tension.
Dropped the triples 25mm, turn-in is a bit lighter now.
Replaced Clutch cable, old one was worn and binding, new one feels so smooth now! Makes shifting a lot easier and the heavy catch point is now hardly noticeable.
Adjusted Idle Rpm, normally I always have my trip indicator showing, and noticed now that my idle rpm was 950-1050. And apparently the that should be a bit higher (noticed it by coincidence in the manual). So now set to 1300.
Also had to much slack on the throttle so tightened it a bit up now.

Almost feels like a new bike now, throttle response seems faster, shifting (with and without clutch) is so smooth and easy now it doesn't take any effort anymore. There's still some stuff to do but that will be in the coming weeks (renew cooling liquid mostly), and later this year I will replace my brake lines (for Braided Steel ones) and I'm planning on advancing my timing a bit (Final Impacts Trigger Mod).
 
Slowly but surely polishing my headers.
IMG_20170507_134450.jpg

Cleaning up the whole bike again will have to wait until these rains are done.
 
Sunday marks the first real ride since parking it in November 2016. PS city has highest rainfall in over 75 years... I blame Seattle! :spank:
New DRL with switchback circuit installed.
New Dunlop Q3 up front.
Rim tape.
Fork oil.
Lots of cleaning. Waxed.
Chain cleaned and lubed...

To be continued.. .. ..
 
Yesterday I installed new rear turn signals and wired them up. Was going to do fronts but need an adapter plate. Its on order now.
Sunday changed the oil and cleaned the entire bike. The deep purple/blue shines mighty fine after a wash.
 
Coolant flush - long overdue I think. New clutch cable to arrive next week. Thinking about doing TB sync while I'm at it (and it is raining outside so I'm kinda' grounded).

Anyone know what this is off the top of your head? Lifted the tank, and it was just sitting there, just behind the battery. A 'bumper' of some sort I guess.

DSC_0505.jpg
DSC_0506.jpg
 
I had the same question when I first lifted my tank. It goes on the bottom of the tank and rests on the frame. Mine falls off every time I lift the tank so may need some glue on it.
20090522-_MG_1035.jpg
 
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