What is the best Oil.

[mglowe]

Re: Oil Change?

Damn, I didn't mean to start a war over oil.

I find there are two topics that do get the War Drums Beating: Oil and Tires

I use Shell Rotella T 15W-40 Triple Protection, others may use something else.

 

[wrightme43]

Re: Oil Change?

I got amsoil in my eye once, and now I can see thru womens cloths. Its pretty cool. :hijack:

 

[Wavex]

Re: Oil Change?

Rotella T full-syn FTMFW!!!

+1

Get it at Walmart for cheap.

Can someone plz sticky one of the 6 million oil threads we have, so we can hope to maybe one day not see oil threads anymore? I know I am dreaming, but it's worth a shot right?

 

[GConn]

Re: Oil Change?

I find there are two topics that do get the War Drums Beating: Oil and Tires

Heh....you forgot WD40 for cleaning the chain...

 

[mglowe]

Re: Oil Change?

Also, there is another thread Dealers can be so closed minded!, which many posted info on oil.

 

[Hellgate]

Re: Oil Change?

I find there are two topics that do get the War Drums Beating: Oil and Tires

I use Shell Rotella T 15W-40 Triple Protection, others may use something else.

Don't forget air filters!

 

[jsteinb95]

Re: Oil Change?

Can someone plz sticky one of the 6 million oil threads we have, so we can hope to maybe one day not see oil threads anymore? I know I am dreaming, but it's worth a shot right?

Done!!!!!!

 

[BranNwebster]

Re: Oil Change?

You think 20w50 would be a problem? The guy at cycle gear said it is good because it's a full synthetic Repsol 4t racing.

 

[OneTrack]

Re: Oil Change?

Rotella T full-syn FTMFW!!!

I bought a gallon of Shell Rotella T full-synthetic 5W40 at Wal-Mart down in Bellingham, WA.
Am I GTG with it in my FZ6?

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Re: Oil Change?

You think 20w50 would be a problem? The guy at cycle gear said it is good because it's a full synthetic Repsol 4t racing.

It's fine, but it doesn't have to be that overpriced motorcycle oil... Synthetic oils such as Rotella T 5W-40 and Mobil 1 15W-50 are much cheaper and willing to bet work better in your bike. As mentioned a million times before avoid oils that say "energy conserving" like a generic 5w-30 or 10W- 40 car oils.

 

[BranNwebster]

Re: Oil Change?

It's fine, but it doesn't have to be that overpriced motorcycle oil... Synthetic oils such as Rotella T 5W-40 and Mobil 1 15W-50 are much cheaper and willing to bet work better in your bike. As mentioned a million times before avoid oils that say "energy conserving" like a generic 5w-30 or 10W- 40 car oils.

Thanks here is another one for you. You know for the warranty they say they want proof that your doing the maintenance yourself and that just keeping a log isn't good enough, I wonder if they can void the warranty because of the oil brand/type you choose?

 

[Scott64a]

Which oil?!?

For crying out loud, I've never seen so many dissenting pinions on any such mundane exercise as changing oil from a motor. I mean, sounds simple right?

Wrong.


I'm at 451 miles on my FZ6, and it's almost time to change the manufacturer's oil out.

A mechanic who has raced all kinds of bikes says to change oil and filter at 500 miles, and with regular oil, and then switch to synthetic at 1000 miles and change the filter again. He says use Yamaha filters and Yamalube 4 (either weight,).

A very good friend of mine for many years who is supremely anal and has been a mechanic for years also says he uses Rotella-T synthetic and purolator pre-1 filters, but also added that I should only use what's specified in the manual.

I'm leaning towards a full sunthetic in 20w50, per the book, with the purolator filters. The friend said they are $5-6.00 and are way better than Yamaha filters that cost twice that.

Some guys here say Rotella-T is ok, but the manual clearly and in bold lettering says not to use oils for diesel or with additives AT ALL.

Is SAE20w50 available in synthetic?

I don't want to use anything with additives that will make my clutch slip...

What are some great quality SAE synthetics?!?

What's a good oil to use for the first change?

 

[FZ1inNH]

Re: Which oil?!?

The best I can tell you is go with the specs recommended by the manual and whatever you're comfortable with. I can tell you only that I use the Rotella 5w-40 Synthetic (Walmart for $16 a gallon). That's the BLUE bottle only!

 

[DocFZ6]

Re: Which oil?!?

Castrol GPS here. 10W-40. Good for all temps and riding styles. Been using Castrol synthetics in all my cars and trucks and even my lawnmower for 18 years. Hasn't let me down yet.:Flash:

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Re: Which oil?!?

For crying out loud, I've never seen so many dissenting pinions on any such mundane exercise as changing oil from a motor. I mean, sounds simple right?

Wrong.


I'm at 451 miles on my FZ6, and it's almost time to change the manufacturer's oil out.

A mechanic who has raced all kinds of bikes says to change oil and filter at 500 miles, and with regular oil, and then switch to synthetic at 1000 miles and change the filter again. He says use Yamaha filters and Yamalube 4 (either weight,).

A very good friend of mine for many years who is supremely anal and has been a mechanic for years also says he uses Rotella-T synthetic and purolator pre-1 filters, but also added that I should only use what's specified in the manual.

I'm leaning towards a full sunthetic in 20w50, per the book, with the purolator filters. The friend said they are $5-6.00 and are way better than Yamaha filters that cost twice that.

Some guys here say Rotella-T is ok, but the manual clearly and in bold lettering says not to use oils for diesel or with additives AT ALL.

Is SAE20w50 available in synthetic?

I don't want to use anything with additives that will make my clutch slip...

What are some great quality SAE synthetics?!?

What's a good oil to use for the first change?

What page does this "Don't use diesel oil" on? Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic is is rated for gasloline engines as well API SJ rated. Yes SM is a higher rating, but most of the stuff that is good for motorcycles (zinc, Phosphorous, boron, etc) has all been removed from SM oils. Yes, zinc & Phosphorous is not good for cats, but unless you're blowing blue smoke out your exhaust (at this point wrecking your cat would be the least of your worries), very little will ever get to your cat. I switched to Rotella T 5w-40 syn at 138km...

*edit* found it "Don't use diesel oil with CD rating" Rotella is not CD rated... just checked the back of the container...

 

[mglowe]

Re: Which oil?!?

...Some guys here say Rotella-T is ok, but the manual clearly and in bold lettering says not to use oils for diesel or with additives AT ALL.

The Owners Manual [LIT-11626-20-60, page 6-13] does state: "Do not use oils with a diesel specification of “CD” or oils of a higher quality than specified."

However... CD classification was introduced in 1955, it's usage is now obsolete. While Rotella T does not list CD specification, I know with the new Triple Protection it is Good stuff!

It is true additives are bad for us. The "or oils of a higher quality than specified" wording your misunderstanding. Maybe your reading WAY to much into this.

Anyone else hear the WAR DRUMS? I swear they were beating just the other day too.

 

[Tour Guide]

Re: Which oil?!?

after 3 new bikes in the last 8 years, i go 3,000 miles with dino oil then switch over to full synthetic. the compounds in the engines are so hard in the newer engines. pick your own flavor in synthetic. personally i use amsoil.

 

[mglowe]

Re: Which oil?!?

...pick your own flavor ...

+1

:beer:

 

[Scott64a]

Re: Which oil?!?

Ah, thanks for clearing this up for me...

So the Rotella-T in the blue jug is OK, huh?
That and Purolator PureOne filters, I'll use the long kind.

I just want to be doing the best thing possible for a bike that I love. :Flash:

Not trying to start an oil war, lol...

Is it still a good idea to use dyno oil until 1000mi after my first oil change? I'd just as soon switch over to synthetic at 600 and let it go for 4000 miles.

I broke in a new Nissan 2.4L dual overhead cammed pick-em-up truck motor back in 98 by the same method, and it's been running like a top since.

I guess it's what works for me, but I always like to pick brains for stuff I'm not sure of.
:noworries:

 

[wrightme43]

Re: Which oil?!?

Since Nate is not here to post this for you. I will.

Credit Nate.

This is the best answer ever.
Defy Inertia

I know that you may be considering the use of synthetic oil in your bikes. But you really should Very cautious of synthetic oil! It can do terrible things both to you, and to your bike. Synthetic oil will not only leak out of your engine faster than you can put it in, but it will also cause your oil filter to clog and implode, dumping debris and dirt into your lubrication system. It also will make every part of your bike permanently slippery because of its linear molecular chain dispersion action.

Then it will leak onto your kickstand causing it to retract automatically and without warning, dropping your bike flat on the rocky ground! But that's not all . . . . Synthetic oil will round off your gears and spin your bearings. Synthetic oil will also splatter onto your seat causing your girlfriend to fall off in the apex of a turn and then she will never ride with, or sleep with, you again. Synthetic oil coats your oil sight window with a whitish pro-emulsification additive that is both non-removable and highly corrosive. Synthetic oil will completely leak out onto the ground overnight, force your favorite dog to drink it at gunpoint, and he will then die a slow horrible writhing death.

Synthetic oil will wear out your tires and make your battery leak. It will give you the desperate need to urinate after you put your full leathers on and then jam all your zippers shut. Synthetic oil will contaminate your gasoline causing your bike to stall on railroad tracks and accelerate uncontrollably near police cars. Synthetic oil will make it rain during rallies and on every weekend. It will causing your cam drive to jump teeth and break your valves to bits. Synthetic oil chemically weakens desmodromic valves and causes the clearances to change every sixteen miles. Then it melts the black soles of your riding boots night before you walk across your new carpeting.

While riding past groups of attractive women it will cause both of your handlebar grips to slip off at the same time so you smash your windscreen with the bridge of your nose. It also causes your swingarm to crack, your studs to break, and your rotors to warp. Synthetic oil then voids your warranty by changing your odometer reading to 55,555 overnight. It also dries out your wet clutch and wets your dryclutch. It makes your clutch cable or slave cylinder seal fail in the heaviest traffic on the hottest day of the year while putting an angry wasp in your helmet for good measure.

Synthetic oil hides your 13mm socket and puts superglue on your earplugs. Synthetic oil will scratch your face shield and make your gloves shrink two sizes the night before track day. Synthetic oil will then steal your neutral and sell it for $1.25.

So let's be careful out there
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