USB + iPhone 5 + 10 minute = discharged battery?

nthdegreeburns

nthdegreeburns

Junior Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Messages
253
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Location
Atlanta, GA
Visit site
I have the Deltran quick connect USB adapter for my 2007 FZ6. I have an iPhone 5 connected to it. I turn on the nav app (Waze) and leave it connected, knowing full well it's (the USB adapter and anything connected to it) drawing from the battery.

10 minutes later gathering up my keys and locking doors...

...won't start. It's on a tender now.

Two questions...

Will 2.1A from that USB port really pull the battery down that fast in 10 minutes (I have no concept of available juice in a motorcycle battery)?

Could the recent addition of the BD43 headlight mod be impacting the battery? I sit in a lot of traffic unfortunately, and I have seen a post about a guy who lost his battery in traffic.

Thanks,
nthdegreeburns
 
A battery in good condition shouldn't be run down in 10 minutes from an I phone.

Yes the BD 43 pulls 55 watts but the lights were't on when charging the phone. If you had the ignition on (probably not with that set up) the running lights, fuel pump priming, etc, would pull some current.

Make sure your warm idle is around 1,300 RPM's. Fully charge the battery and have it load tested. I suspect it'll fail and time for replacement...

If you have a volt meter, check accross the termnals for sitting voltage and also the voltage when cranking. It'll normally drop just a tad cranking, yours, I'll bet is under 8 or 9 volts (toast). The clock on the dash re-setting or the dash lights dimming when cranking is the first sign of a battery failing...

How old is the battery?
 
Last edited:
The phone being plugged in should not drain the battery that quick. The phone probably isn't even drawing 2.1 amps anyways; probably closer to 1 amp. 5 volts at 1 amp is a draw of 5watts; figure 6 watts to factor in some inefficiency. 6watts at 12volts=.5A. Idk what your battery's Ah is but a battery with 12Ah (pretty standard for a mc battery) can supply .5A for 24 hours. -note I'm no electrician so my understanding of electrical may be off. The headlight mod and low rpms being stuck in traffic definitely adds to the draw with the fz's weak charging system. There have been threads on the bikes system and it's capabilities. I think it's been said the rpms have to be higher than 2500 for the system to charge the battery?

Edit:this battery is 10Ah. This will supply .5A for 20 hours.
Good thread on the charging system. http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/32324-charging-system.html
 
Last edited:
Sadly it sounds like new battery time mate.
I kept my dead battery going for about ten months before I faced up to the reality that it was gone:(

Nelly
 
Make sure you check the voltage at the battery once it running. At 5,000 RPM, max charge should be around 14 volts.

Just above idle, roughly 2k or so its usually around 13 volts or so. If the voltage doesn't rise with the RPM's, besides the battery, you have charging issues...

DO NOT jump start with a RUNNING car engine battery. A 12 volt car battery (turned off), is fine to jump start..
 
Nelly said:
Sadly it sounds like new battery time mate.
I kept my dead battery going for about ten months before I faced up to the reality that it was gone:(

Nelly
Click to expand...

Don't do this. Limping along a dead battery is a great way to cook your stator on the bike as it's constantly trying to charge a dead battery. This is how I cooked an alternator on my car. The alternator or stator is not designed to charge a dead battery, only to keep it topped off.
 
FIZZER6 said:
Don't do this. Limping along a dead battery is a great way to cook your stator on the bike as it's constantly trying to charge a dead battery. This is how I cooked an alternator on my car. The alternator or stator is not designed to charge a dead battery, only to keep it topped off.
Click to expand...
Thanks mate, the battery was on the tender 24/7 even at work. It was a slow death that has now been rectified. I was putting it down to freezing temperatures and alarm drain.
I agree though once you start to have charge issues its time to investigate. A mistake I will not repeat in the future.

Nelly
 
Nelly said:
Sadly it sounds like new battery time mate.

I kept my dead battery going for about ten months before I faced up to the reality that it was gone:(



Nelly
Click to expand...


This battery -- after doing the headlight mod this past weekend and noticing that it was PROBABLY original -- has had an interesting life in the past year that I've owned the bike...

I bought the bike in 2/2013. It was delivered running to my house. It sat for a cold month until I found time to ride and got my gear.

That forced me to get the tender the first night I rolled it out of the garage and down my driveway.

I've put it on a tender occasionally since then if I felt the start was weak -- once a week during the winter.

Soooo, yeah. I started out a year ago with a dead battery post. Sale and never did anything t check it other than put it on a tender.

I'll hit up Amazon or Batteries Plus...
 
nthdegreeburns said:
Took a look. Probably cheaper for me to go to Batteries Plus around here in Atlanta, GA.

Nthdegreeburns
Click to expand...


Yes, shipping toxic materials comes at cost. Let someone else take the shipping hit.

Also, I have some long probes and NO tender or suit connection to the bike so I reach under the frame with my probes poke the RR Red and Black wires. That gets us battery voltage without lifting the tank. However my RR is closer to the frame to make way for non-standard shock!

FWIW: I second that your battery was compromised before the "new" load was applied. It should be able to handle that easily. Its a 10 Ah battery from the factory.
 
IMO, I'd stick with an OEM but thats your choice.

Wether you purchase thru the mail or at a shop, the battery comes approx 80% charged.

To get a long, healthy life out of it, it should be put on a trickle charger BEFORE ANY LOAD to top it off (either the selling shop can do it, or you can) to 100%.

It can take up to 8 hours to top it off (automatic charger)..
 
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
IMO, I'd stick with an OEM but thats your choice.



Wether you purchase thru the mail or at a shop, the battery comes approx 80% charged.



To get a long, healthy life out of it, it should be put on a trickle charger BEFORE ANY LOAD to top it off (either the selling shop can do it, or you can) to 100%.



It can take up to 8 hours to top it off (automatic charger)..
Click to expand...


Good to know. I will end up taking the battery home and installing it there so it's properly charged on the tender...

Nthdegreeburns
 
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
IMO, I'd stick with an OEM but thats your choice.
Click to expand...


Looks like I might try and get a Yuasa YT12B-BS replacement for $75 from Amazon.

The sale mentioned earlier is for Deltran batteries that are lithium ion. They require a non-desulfation mode tender.

The URL for the 2007 FZ6 replacement is here:

Yuasa YUAM6212B YT12B-BS Battery
301 Moved Permanently

I'll have to risk the shipping being an issue. That's the only problem I foresee. I will see if Cyclegear can match the Amazon price locally tonight.

nthdegreeburns
 
If they'll match locally (or come real close), I'd go that route.

BTW, on the Amazon link: "Comes with pre-measured acid tubes that dealer easily empties into battery. Includes a seal that is then placed across top of battery to create a sealed, spill-proof battery. Never needs refilling but may need periodic charging. 1-year manufacturers warranty".


The lithiums have advanced alot in the very recent years but their still NOT proven as dependable as the stock AGM from what I've read...

Don't forget to check the charging voltage once its in and running. The tank will be up and the new battery right there anyway.. :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
nthdegreeburns said:
Looks like I might try and get a Yuasa YT12B-BS replacement for $75 from Amazon.

The sale mentioned earlier is for Deltran batteries that are lithium ion. They require a non-desulfation mode tender.

The URL for the 2007 FZ6 replacement is here:

Yuasa YUAM6212B YT12B-BS Battery
301 Moved Permanently

I'll have to risk the shipping being an issue. That's the only problem I foresee. I will see if Cyclegear can match the Amazon price locally tonight.

nthdegreeburns
Click to expand...
Just a bit of clarification, the Deltran batteries are lithium iron phosphate. I imagine they are different than lithium ion, but couldn't tell you what the differences are.

Anyway, hope the new battery solves your issue.
 
Sooo...

View attachment 52573

Had to stop bike at bottom of steep driveway to manually open garage door (yay, terrible week). Bike did won't start.

Got it on a tender right now. I won't get to a Batteries Plus or Cyclegear before closing (yay, traffic).

Ignore what I had here before about jumping across the tender. I need to lift the tank if the charger doesn't work.

Thx! :)
 
Last edited:
nthdegreeburns said:
Sooo...

View attachment 52573

Had to stop bike at bottom of steep driveway to manually open garage door (yay, terrible week). Bike did won't start.

Got it on a tender right now. I won't get to a Batteries Plus or Cyclegear before closing (yay, traffic).

Ignore what I had here before about jumping across the tender. I need to lift the tank if the charger doesn't work.

Thx! :)
Click to expand...

With the tank up (battery access), you can jump start the bike from a 12 volt car battery(auto NOT RUNNING).

With the starting battery still hooked up, you can check the charging voltage at different RPM's to confirm the charging system working (most likely is fine).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Bogdanphb
Fz6 S2 ABS - stator alternator, R/R or battery
2
Replies
39
Views
2K
Bogdanphb
Bogdanphb
Back
Top