USB + iPhone 5 + 10 minute = discharged battery?

[nthdegreeburns]

Here's the battery from the bike -- no idea where the codes are to tell me how old it might be...

Front...

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Back...

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I DID notice that the bolts were loose on the battery box from my headlight mod, but the battery terminals seems ok. I'm gonna finish charging the battery and see about getting a YT12B-BS which seems to have replaced this model for Yuasa.

 

[Motogiro]

Also: When you first start the bike from a another battery the charging system will see the low resistance of the battery which will create a load on the charging system. This will result in a lower voltage reading to start out with but as the battery charges the internal resistance increases, reducing load and the voltage will climb. This is normal and when the battery is well charged you should see close to 14 VDC at 2000 rpm.

 

[FinalImpact]

If they'll match locally (or come real close), I'd go that route.

BTW, on the Amazon link: "Comes with pre-measured acid tubes that dealer easily empties into battery. Includes a seal that is then placed across top of battery to create a sealed, spill-proof battery. Never needs refilling but may need periodic charging. 1-year manufacturers warranty".


The lithiums have advanced alot in the very recent years but their still NOT proven as dependable as the stock AGM from what I've read...

Don't forget to check the charging voltage once its in and running. The tank will be up and the new battery right there anyway.. :thumbup:

Pretty sure we went down this road before - but ya, 1099cc of high compression Brutale RR gave two of those paper light high output $250 batteries the :Flip::Flip: It now has a lead acid battery in it again and cranks just fine. Those things hated the cold - it was like half power...

100% agree with this "still NOT proven as dependable as the stock AGM"

Besides - most of us are cheap b@stards!

 

[nthdegreeburns]

Is there a trick to determining the age of one of these Yuasa's short of calling them about it?

I had a 6-digit code printed in the top of the plastic casing for the battery but it didn't match up any code schemes I found for Yuasa batteries during a cursory web search.

Nthdegreeburns

 

[tejkowskit]

I tried deciphering the code on my battery when I first bought the bike. You'll most likely have to contact yuasa as they refused to share the code system with me, but they were able to tell me the date (this is as of a few years ago). I too couldn't find any info on the code system.

I remember I couldn't determine any correlation between the code and the date they gave me. I don't think there is any sure way to decipher it; unlike on most car batteries you look for a letter and a number.

I recommend just shooting them an email.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can leave a new, un-filled battery left on the shelf for YEARS and it'll stay new. So the year maufactured year really isn't important.

Once its filled and put into service is when the clock starts. Time, riding habits, accessories, etc will determine how how long the battery lasts.

When I replace a battery, I'll yellow marker the month and year on the case (just for myself).

I also have a service log, date and miles, anything I do pertinent to the bike (brake fluid, rebuild, oil changes, battery, tires, etc). Actually, I have the same log for all my vehicles, boat and small machines (generator, chipper/shredder, etc)

 

[FinalImpact]

Not that this will help us because as Scott said, its when its filled that counts.
But if someone has a lot code to throw out there, feel free. Often times these codes include the plant number as letters/numbers, while production date is the calendar week of production.
Example for 2014-04-03 could be: 1414 (year 14, week 14), now add in plant codes and batch number....

 

[FinalImpact]

When I replace a battery, I'll yellow marker the month and year on the case (just for myself).

Funny - when I replace things I usually Sharpie the date on them. Same with batteries. You know, cool things like the water heater, furnace, range, shelving in the garage. Its just easier than trying to remember!

Where did that wife go? Blah

 

[nthdegreeburns]

Ordered battery from Amazon. Called around locally -- no one was willing to hedge on the Amazon price of $73. $40 less than any other price I got from stealerships and Cyclegear.

The old / dead battery charged on the tender overnight, and I was able to start the bike this morning. It's raining 2 days of the next 3, so I can wait until Monday. In the meantime, I'll also hunt down a multimeter to check the output from the bike while charging.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ordered battery from Amazon. Called around locally -- no one was willing to hedge on the Amazon price of $73. $40 less than any other price I got from stealerships and Cyclegear.

The battery charged on the tender overnight, and I was able to start the bike this morning. It's raining 2 days of the next 3, so I can wait until Monday. In the meantime, I'll also hunt down a multimeter to check the output from the bike while charging.

It sometimes takes some topping of of acid when at the end of charging, so you may want to carefully peek if you have some extra acid left.. Might be too late now...

 

[nthdegreeburns]

It sometimes takes some topping of of acid when at the end of charging, so you may want to carefully peek if you have some extra acid left.. Might be too late now...

Battery from Amazon doesn't show 'til Monday. I charged the old one last night in the off chance I wanna try a ride.

 

[cranduit]

Oh lithium.
Great batteries between 20-30 C (68-86 F) and even better capacities as you climb a bit higher (40 C/104 F) gives nice numbers from a manufacture. Outside of that range, they lose a lot. My job is to test these, and I can say I see swings between 16-18 Ah (roughly) from temperatures of -25 to 55 C. Pulse current (more traditionally cranking amps) depends highly on the chemistry, anywhere from 2C to 20C (C being the Ah capacity).

All that, and they don't take kindly to overcharging or over discharging, sitting on a shelf for extended periods, or other things lead acid doesn't consider abuse. The weight to Ah ratio is really their shining light, and some of the new cell chemistries are getting safer bit by bit.

I know, tmi...

 

[nthdegreeburns]

I have a few questions before I get this new battery in...

First, the new vs. old battery...

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Next, a how to video recommended a) charging the battery overnight (already suggested here) and b) leaving the caps loose to allow for out gassing.

I'm concerned about B -- is that necessary? And is that something I would NOT want to leave unattended in a garage overnight?

Finally -- the charger. Is a Schumacher maintenance charger acceptable for carving the new battery overnight? The how to video had a fancy charger which has settings for battery sizes and such.

View attachment 52673

Please advise. I wanted to try and do this before I went to bed, but I'm wondering if I need to allow more time to do it properly.

NOTE - I still need a multimeter. I wouldn't be able to check the voltages before I needed to ride again.

nthdegreeburns

 

[FinalImpact]

Assuming NEW is on the left which shows the charge rate as 1.2 Amps for X5 - 10 hrs. Or Quick at: 5A X 1Hr

This appears pretty standard so if your charger has an "AMP setting" of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, ect use the lower of the group and time it so you can take it off when you're awake in 4 - 5 hrs.

Lets say its a 12A battery and you follow their lead with a setting of 1.2A applied. If it were dead, that would be 12Amp/hr / @1.2 amp rate = ~10hrs just like the battery says. But its not completely dead so it could be done as soon as 5 hrs or even less.

The key thing to keep in mind is you don't want to shove more AMPs into it than its rated for as that can/will create heat and boil the acid out.

Example would be a setting of 20Amp on your charger.
12A/hr battery / @20 Amp charge rate = 0.6 hrs. That would be Too Much too fast!​

In short - don't exceed the 5A setting of an hour. In fact, anything less than 3 Amp should be fine and it should not heat or out-gas. Does that make sense?

 

[oaks]

Last summer I installed the same new battery and charged with the same charger with no problems, so no worries there.

Seal the battery caps as soon as you put the acid in. Don't want it splashing out if the battery gets hot and bubbles while charging. It will vent gases even if sealed.

It took about 3 hours for my charger to indicate fully charged and cycle off -- as indicated by the green light -- so it's okay to run overnight.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

In short - don't exceed the 5A setting of an hour. In fact, anything less than 3 Amp should be fine and it should not heat or out-gas. Does that make sense?

Specs on this Schumacher charger are 12V or 6V at 1.5A. There are no settings. It's just plug and play.

Sounds like I should be OK. Do you recommend just sealing the caps on up like the next poster mentioned?

 

[oaks]

Also, the GT12B-4 battery is the original, so 7+ years ain't too bad.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

CRAP...

I kept smelling gas when I had the tank lifted.

This happened the other night before I removed the old battery. I checked and didn't notice leaks. Figured it was venting somewhere since the tank is full. Let the garage air out and lowered the tank a few days while waiting to get the battery.

Tonight -- gas leak on the right side underneath the center stand. Found a small puddle under the center stand and some gas in this area...

View attachment 52674

What's did I do? Pull the tank too far back? Where should I be checking for a leak?

 

[oaks]

If the tank was full it's normal for it to drip out the overflow/vent hoses that hang down near the center stand, when the tank is lifted. If you must keep the tank up for a long period, fold the end of the dripping hose and pinch it closed with a clamp. Or catch the fuel in a clean pan and dump it back in the tank, if the tank is only up briefly.

Be sure to tug the hoses back down when you lower the tank for the last time.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

If the tank was full it's normal for it to drip out the overflow/vent hoses that hang down near the center stand, when the tank is lifted.

Is there any chance I've loosened something? Or is this just standard for the full tank? I JUST recreated the problem a minute ago -- this didn't happen when I did bd43's headlight mod on a 1/2 tank.

This height seems to cause the leak...

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This height does not...

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I had pulled the tank back rather far enough to warrant disconnecting those sensors in the tank before. Too far for a full tank?