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Build your own Manometer for Throttle Body Sync!

Built it and used it. Simply brilliant! Thanks for the great how-to. It worked perfectly with a little Marvel Mystery Oil.

Awesome! :thumbup:

I think I may do another throttle body sync this spring and see if it changed since I did this initially.
 
Evening all,

I know I'm in a bad mood with a temper. Sorry in advance.

I went out bought the hose, the connectors, and spend the time to craft this. Perhaps I have sub quality connectors I don't know. All I know is when I turn it on all is good for a couple second then air gets into the system.

3/16 hose with 3/16 connectors. All went together very snug.

Anyone have a quick air leak solution I could try?

**********

Solved my own issue. Used some adhesive sealant and smothered the connections where the oil is with it. #3 was way out low, 2# was way high, #4 was a bit high. All nice and level now. Thanks for posting the guide.
 
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Evening all,

I know I'm in a bad mood with a temper. Sorry in advance.

I went out bought the hose, the connectors, and spend the time to craft this. Perhaps I have sub quality connectors I don't know. All I know is when I turn it on all is good for a couple second then air gets into the system.

3/16 hose with 3/16 connectors. All went together very snug.

Anyone have a quick air leak solution I could try?

**********

Solved my own issue. Used some adhesive sealant and smothered the connections where the oil is with it. #3 was way out low, 2# was way high, #4 was a bit high. All nice and level now. Thanks for posting the guide.


hot glue or clear silicone over the joints
.. maybe your one size hose to big
 
Thank you so much! I ordered the parts, built the manometer and sync'd the throttle bodies this weekend. My bike was horribly out of sync. Cylinders 1 and 4 were literally off the scale. At first I thought I managed to build the gauge wrong or didn't have enough oil in the tubes so I added more oil and let it settle. When I hooked it up again I had the same problem. I drained the excess oil out of the manometer and tried again. Then I realized that my bike was just horrible out of sync. I can't believe how big a difference the syncing made.

Thank you so much for making this excellent write up!
 
Thank you so much! I ordered the parts, built the manometer and sync'd the throttle bodies this weekend. My bike was horribly out of sync. Cylinders 1 and 4 were literally off the scale. At first I thought I managed to build the gauge wrong or didn't have enough oil in the tubes so I added more oil and let it settle. When I hooked it up again I had the same problem. I drained the excess oil out of the manometer and tried again. Then I realized that my bike was just horrible out of sync. I can't believe how big a difference the syncing made.

Thank you so much for making this excellent write up!
Did you adjust the #1 TB? It is the baseline for the other three and is not to be adjusted.
 
Thank you so much! I ordered the parts, built the manometer and sync'd the throttle bodies this weekend. My bike was horribly out of sync. Cylinders 1 and 4 were literally off the scale. At first I thought I managed to build the gauge wrong or didn't have enough oil in the tubes so I added more oil and let it settle. When I hooked it up again I had the same problem. I drained the excess oil out of the manometer and tried again. Then I realized that my bike was just horrible out of sync. I can't believe how big a difference the syncing made.

Thank you so much for making this excellent write up!

Thanks! Yea it's amazing how much of a difference this makes in smoothness on this bike. How far off most throttle bodies are when adjusted makes me wonder if they even sync them at the factory before shipment.
 
Motojoe yea I started with cylinder 1. Before I could though I had to adjust a few of the others, two of them were so off they were sucking all the oil from the others so I had to get it somewhat in check before I could fine tune it. After that it worked great and made a very noticeable difference in vibrations and performance in my bike. I'm willing to bet that in 7 years and 10,000 miles it had never been done.
 
thanks for an excellent post OP :thumbup:

and to you guys who came up with looking in pet stores for those of us not in CONUS. :cheer:

trying to build this out of parts available in my little back water country and have a couple o' questions:

I. found these F-connects (even come with three) - does anyone foresee trouble from them
a. being metal or​
b. having those on/off switches (please supply terminology)​
?

II. have been unable to find vacuum restrictors or equivalent...
a. are they critical (and if yes, what is their function exactly?)​
b. would this (straight connect, no frills) or this (one way valve / back flow stopper) be a sufficient replacement do you think?​

thanks guys - this is going to be a great project!
 
thanks for an excellent post OP :thumbup:

and to you guys who came up with looking in pet stores for those of us not in CONUS. :cheer:

trying to build this out of parts available in my little back water country and have a couple o' questions:

I. found these F-connects (even come with three) - does anyone foresee trouble from them
a. being metal or​
b. having those on/off switches (please supply terminology)​
?

II. have been unable to find vacuum restrictors or equivalent...
a. are they critical (and if yes, what is their function exactly?)​
b. would this (straight connect, no frills) or this (one way valve / back flow stopper) be a sufficient replacement do you think?​

thanks guys - this is going to be a great project!

I do not see a link for your "F-connectors" you are asking about.

Not sure what those fittings are or if they would work as vacuum restrictors but the purpose of the restrictor is to minimize the bouncing of the fluid in the hoses by causing the vacuum pressure to be softer. Plenty of people have done it without restrictors but if you do I recommend giving yourself more hose length and taking the hoses up and hang them at least 2 meters above the manometer to prevent the fluid getting sucked into the engine before it stabilizes.
 
oh ffs....grumble. lets try that link again

thanks for your reply, they aren't restrictors, they are just connects. Will prbly have to do it w/o restrictors but w/ plenty of tubing then.
 
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just stumbled on this....I guess it's mostly for those who are in the dark on exactly how and what concerning the mano. I'm more informed now. Guess restrictors can be built with relative ease.
 
Did the TB Sync on my 06 today. Thanks for all the how-to info here.

Until today I had only done the basic oil, plugs and filters for maintenance.

Here is where it was when I first hooked it up:

original.jpg


This is how it finished up:

final.jpg


And this was at 4k RPMs:

4k.jpg


2 questions that I did not see answered.
Does it matter which way the restrictors go in the tubing? I put the part with metal in it into the clear tubing, made more sense to me. But I noticed in one of the how-to pics it was the other way.

And, I noticed by the time I finished the tubing was flattening out around the engine heat. Not so much once it cleared the frame area. Even though it was sucked flat very small adjustments still showed in the fluid.

It does seem to be smoother, but will all this rain it is hard to tell because the test ride was very short.

Did anybody notice I used the faster RED fluid??
 
I built my manometer the other night in about 20 minutes and what a difference after syncing the TBs! My hands don't vibrate anymore.

I didn't have vacuum restrictors or any male-to-male connectors so I drilled holes through the bases of spent .22 long rifle casings. It worked alright, but the holes may have been too big. Picked up a vacuum restrictor from one Advance store, and am picking up the other three from three more Advance stores after work today. Apparently they only keep one in stock at each location.
 
Did the TB Sync on my 06 today. Thanks for all the how-to info here.

Until today I had only done the basic oil, plugs and filters for maintenance.

Here is where it was when I first hooked it up:

original.jpg


This is how it finished up:

final.jpg


And this was at 4k RPMs:

4k.jpg


2 questions that I did not see answered.
Does it matter which way the restrictors go in the tubing? I put the part with metal in it into the clear tubing, made more sense to me. But I noticed in one of the how-to pics it was the other way.

And, I noticed by the time I finished the tubing was flattening out around the engine heat. Not so much once it cleared the frame area. Even though it was sucked flat very small adjustments still showed in the fluid.

It does seem to be smoother, but will all this rain it is hard to tell because the test ride was very short.

Did anybody notice I used the faster RED fluid??

It does not matter which way the restrictors go in. But it would be wise to just put all 4 in the same way to keep it uniform.

As long as the tubing is not pinching shut it should not matter if it flattens a bit the vacuum is still working through it. When I did mine I was able to keep the tubing well away from the engine heat. Perhaps if it's also a hot day in direct sunlight this problem would be more likely.
 
I was able to visit 4 Advance locations to get my 4 vacuum restrictors. For anyone who has tried syncing their throttle bodies without vacuum restrictors do yourself a favor and order them. Those restrictors were the best part of the whole system and kept the oil calm in the tubes. A standard male-to-male connector will cause the oil to bounce up and down a lot. It'll also require all of your connections to be sealed tight or they'll suck air.

Thanks to everyone who was involved in bringing this topic to the forum. It feels like I'm riding a brand new bike.
 
Here is my version (thanks!!)

1/4" cable clips fit perfectly! The extra Stabil I had lying around also looks cool and leveled out in no time at all.
 
Just got done doing this to my bike. It's been a little over a year since I've done it and it needed it badly! This should be checked more often than people think. I think the manual calls for it once a year.

Edit: The maintenance schedule calls for synchronization every 6 months or 4000 miles.
 
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Just got done doing this to my bike. It's been a little over a year since I've done it and it needed it badly! This should be checked more often than people think. I think the manual calls for it once a year.

Edit: The maintenance schedule calls for synchronization every 6 months or 4000 miles.

I had no idea the maintenance schedule calls for it that often. It's been 2 years for me! I guess I know what I'm doing tonight! :D
 
For anyone building these, I bought a length of case molding at Home Depot that had channels in it. I glued the lines into the channels. Made for a very nice clean and slick looking piece without any fasteners going over the lines.
 
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