Installing FZ1 bar - question about grips / heaters

cmantis

Junior Member
I am going to do the FZ1 bar swap soon and was wondering if I shouldn't get some new grips and even install some heaters while I am at it. Any advice or recommendations on what to get? Want to try to get this order in so I can do this swap. Thanks.
 

PFD023

Junior Member
Will be doing the very same thing (along with Oxford heated grips) as soon as I get back from Fla.. Curious to see what others have to say.
 

regder

Junior Member
I use the cheap heated grip kit with two heating positions that you can find in any bike shop. Works well and is cheap. There used to be a good install guide on the net somewhere, don't know if it's still around

grip-heaters.jpg
 

Cloggy

Euro Mod
Elite Member
I use the cheap heated grip kit with two heating positions that you can find in any bike shop. Works well and is cheap. There used to be a good install guide on the net somewhere, don't know if it's still around

grip-heaters.jpg

I realise this is a cheap heated grip but I somehow doubt that it is regulated by a controler. Without a controller the extra energy is dissapated in a resistor, which means it uses as much power in Hi as in the low position, which is not a biggy unless like me you ride all year around, then I don't want to unnecessarily use extra power (and conserve my battery).

I have the Oxford hot grips. with a controller and 4 different power levels.
 
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regder

Junior Member
I realise this is a cheap heated grip but I somehow doubt that it is regulated by a controler. Without a controller the extra energy is dissapated in a resistor, which means it uses as much power in Hi as in the low position, which is not a biggy unless like me you ride all year around, then I don't want to unnecessarily use extra power (and conserve my battery).

I have the Oxford hot grips. with a controller and 4 different power levels.

This is true, but really only a concern if you're running other heated clothing or power hungry doodads.

If I remember right, the FZ6 outputs an extra 7amps at 5-6k rpm. Cheapo heated groups will sap about 3amps, leaving you with a safety buffer of 4amps. Still enough to charge the battery as it normally would.
 

odachi13

Junior Member
Newest versions of the Oxford HotGrips claim to draw under 4a and come with a 5a fuse fitted as standard.
They also claim to have an intelligent heat controller that turns itself off when you turn your enginge off - saving you wiring it elsewhere light into your lights. My older hotgrips I've run the battery down countless times so would be nice if that actually works.
 

regder

Junior Member
They also claim to have an intelligent heat controller that turns itself off when you turn your enginge off - saving you wiring it elsewhere light into your lights. My older hotgrips I've run the battery down countless times so would be nice if that actually works.

This is smart. I have mine wired through a standard five pin relay so it cuts power with the engine off.
 

beatle

Junior Member
I have the older style Oxford heated grips with an FZ1 bar. No issues. Full power is actually too much, so there's plenty of heat to spare.
 

MattR302

Awesomeness, Inc.
I realise this is a cheap heated grip but I somehow doubt that it is regulated by a controler. Without a controller the extra energy is dissapated in a resistor, which means it uses as much power in Hi as in the low position, which is not a biggy unless like me you ride all year around, then I don't want to unnecessarily use extra power (and conserve my battery).

Yes, that "low" setting on the cheap kits dumps heat through that big white resistor. The temperature you'll feel will be lower, because the resistor will be real hot, that's why they say to mount it to something metal as a heat-sink, otherwise the resistor can fail from too much heat. It will work, but it won't save you any power on "low" setting. What you can do, is replace the resistor with a 2-pin turn signal relay spliced in-line. What this does is cycle the wires on and off, similar to the same way a heat-troller operates, saving you power since it's on a ~50% duty cycle.

Edit - you should also run heated grips through a relay switched by your headlight or ignition, so you don't drain the battery if you forget to turn the grips off before parking the bike.
 

outasight20

Junior Member
I have Moose Racing heated grips on mine. They have two seperate heating elements for low and high. I don't know the current draw, but I do know that while running the grips on high, my heated gloves on high, and my highbeam on I had no battery issues or slow starts througout the winter.
 

pookamatic

Junior Member
This thread.... HILARIOUS. It's like you're all making fun of me and my cheap grip heater experience.

So here is the first hand info: the cheap grip heaters work. They will warm the snot out of your hands on high, and really nice on low. As others have said, the resistor method won't save you any juice. My particular install was a regrettable one. It was done at a friends house during a gathering. There were lots of distractions. Wired them hot so it didn't take long. You know where this is going... New battery. Thankfully the previous one was original.

As the the draw, I never did put a meter on them but I can say that even without extra mods, it tops the stator out. I found myself making up for lost juice in the battery every night with the tender. I like the flasher relay idea for low... may do that.

Go with a quality set.
 

outasight20

Junior Member
I got a pair of the cheap Chinese grip warmers on ebay a while back. They lasted two days then shorted out and started smoking while I was riding down the road. Melted part of my grip and a little of the clutch side control housing.

Go with a quality set.
 
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