Increasing Stator Output

[LVNeptune]

Found the following thread but it went dead: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/27460-increasing-stator-output-rewinding-stator-6.html

Has any new information been found regarding this? If not is there any mods I can do to add extra wattage to my bike? Might be interested in adding some extra lights and some heaters which will definately take the bike over capacity. Or throw a 1,000 watt speaker setup in it (jk)...

I was thinking if this ISN'T possible maybe I can get a spare battery and a tender to charge it after use or something? Not sure how much the battery could handle without a charge attached to it.

My final idea was setting it up for solar power to generate about 100-150 watts if possible.

 

[ChevyFazer]

Your best bet is to reduce your current amp.draw on your bike by going hid headlights and led for everything else, and unless you want to run a microwave youll be fine

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[LVNeptune]

I'm ordering an HID setup but we'll see if that helps, was just wondering for curiousity's sake.

 

[CanadianFZ6]

My final idea was setting it up for solar power to generate about 100-150 watts if possible.

That would be one rather large panel... an 80 watt panel is around 3' x 4' ft or so in dimension... You could probably turn your FZ6 into a glider as well with that sized panel... Another battery would be useless (fully charged stock battery has 10amps of reserve power)... The 55w stock low beam draws 4.5amps alone....
Or you could just buy the new Tiger 1200... it has a sizzling, pizza oven rated 950watt alternator... :thumbup:

 

[Motogiro]

That would be one rather large panel... an 80 watt panel is around 3' x 4' ft or so in dimension... You could probably turn your FZ6 into a glider as well with that sized panel... Another battery would be useless (fully charged stock battery has 10amps of reserve power)... The 55w stock low beam draws 4.5amps alone....
Or you could just buy the new Tiger 1200... it has a sizzling, pizza oven rated 950watt alternator... :thumbup:

Did someone say Pizza?! :BLAA:

Wow! 950 watts! :rockon:

 

[Motogiro]

I'm actually thinking of an idea that might work to increase charging on any bike. I may build a prototype.
Along with increasing wattage from the charging system you would have to change or add another regulator/rectifier because the stock OEM R/R would have to dissipate the additional wattage once the battery was topped off. If this is not done the OEM R/R will be short lived.

 

[Shamus McFeeley]

I'm actually thinking of an idea that might work to increase charging on any bike. I may build a prototype.
Along with increasing wattage from the charging system you would have to change or add another regulator/rectifier because the stock OEM R/R would have to dissipate the additional wattage once the battery was topped off. If this is not done the OEM R/R will be short lived.

I hope it has something to do with fusion at room temperature!

 

[greg]

you might be able to fit a few more windings on the stator (maybe giving you an extra 10-15% which would amount to around 50W), but i suspect you would need to upgrade your R/R to cope with the extra power, otherwise you may end up frying it. A more efficient R/R may free up an amp or two too.

i created a thread a while back on how to re-wind your stator, which may be of some use.

 

[CanadianFZ6]

I'm actually thinking of an idea that might work to increase charging on any bike. I may build a prototype.
Along with increasing wattage from the charging system you would have to change or add another regulator/rectifier because the stock OEM R/R would have to dissipate the additional wattage once the battery was topped off. If this is not done the OEM R/R will be short lived.

You are correct... I believe the Yamaha shunts excess power to the ground when not being used... That is hard on the stator as well... A cheap and easy upgrade would be a Mosfet type R/R... If it overheats it just shuts off instead of burning out....If I end up keeping my FZ6 I will probably buy this http://roadstercycle.com/index.html

 

[Motogiro]

I hope it has something to do with fusion at room temperature!

Unfortunately not but what I'm thinking is I can phase modulate the shields till I find the resonant frequency of fluidic space, contact species 8472 and borrow a bio battery tender! :BLAA: Uh nope nope....can't do that cuz I'd have to eject the warp core....

 

[Motogiro]

You are correct... I believe the Yamaha shunts excess power to the ground when not being used... That is hard on the stator as well... A cheap and easy upgrade would be a Mosfet type R/R... If it overheats it just shuts off instead of burning out....If I end up keeping my FZ6 I will probably buy this Roadstercycle-Index

I think you're talking about this regulator, the CE 605 SB Kit. It's a series regulator that open circuits and takes the load off by eliminating hysteresis at the stator.
This is a cool site. I've read on forums where certain bikes like the early VFRs were at one time plagued with failing R/Rs I believe it was insufficient heat sinking and there was a guy that would add a heat sink for a fee and cure the problem. I believe Honda fixed the problem.

 

[Zargof]

Since bmccrary never posted back, do we know if having that stator rewound would require a bigger r/r? Would the mosfet type r/r increase the stock charging capacity?

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Would the mosfet type r/r increase the stock charging capacity?

No, you need a higher output stator/alternator for that.... Although the mosfet R/R is still a shunt type rectifier (meaning it shunts excess power to ground)... it still is far better than the stock R/R... off the top of my head, one advantage is the mosfet runs cooler and if it does happen to overheat, it simply shuts down until it cools... My understanding is the series type R/R has more protective qualities of the stator than either the mosfet or stock R/R...

 

[CanadianFZ6]

I think you're talking about this regulator, the CE 605 SB Kit. It's a series regulator that open circuits and takes the load off by eliminating hysteresis at the stator.

Yep, the series type R/R is a non-shunt type... probably the best for not burning up your Stator...

 

[Motogiro]

Since bmccrary never posted back, do we know if having that stator rewound would require a bigger r/r? Would the mosfet type r/r increase the stock charging capacity?

Not knowing what the OEM R/R wattage rating to dissipate the current and what bmccrary's stator output came out to be it would just be a guess.

The charge rate will be largely dependent on stator wattage output.

If you were using a series regulator the charge rate would be limited to what the unit could pass wattage wise.

If you were using parallel (shunt type FZ6) regulation you would have to consider what wattage being produce by the stator the shunt can handle. Basically the stator is always under load and creating heat with the shunt system. Not so with the series regulator.

With an alternator as in a car, the field current is how the regulation is managed. There are no permanent magnets as in the bike so when there is no magnetic field produced by battery current there is no charge.

The charging systems on our bikes are basically very simple in the sense of components.
As far as mosfet being used it's more design choice for a plethora of characteristics that engineers may choose mosfet over bi-polar transistors.

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Basically the stator is always under load and creating heat with the shunt system. Not so with the series regulator.

Even though the stator is bathed in oil to cool it, I now may actually go with the series type R/R for the reason you just mentioned....

 

[Zargof]

Since this is way over my head, guess I will have to wait on your solution Motogiro or someone giving a better solution.

 

[ChevyFazer]

I know just enogh about electronics to get myself n trouble or make myself look like a a$$, but i was thinking about this....could you just install 1 or more big capacitors like they hook up to crazy sound systems? Or are they only good for surges of power?

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[bmccrary]

My appologies. I should have finished that thread but unfortunitly I forgot about it. Ended up finishing that single wheeled trailer, graduated college, got a job, all that good stuff.

Anywho... I didnt see any results. I ended up frying the R/R and had to purchased a used stator and R/R on ebay. It looked as though I was getting more current out of the stator after the re-wind but I wasnt getting a bit more current, but with that I was getting more resitance so the gains were minimal if any.

So that was a no go.

Now that I have moved up to a larger bike that has similar issues but more options available, my advise would be:

HID headlights - just make sure you find some with low operational power. Also find osme that are for motorcycles. Slim balast that is rugged and ok with vibrations, moisture, etc.

If you dont want to go that route and you have already completed the dual head light mod, install a switch so that you can turn the extra head light on and off while on low beam to conserve power. You could do the same with the highbeam if you really wanted.

LED lights everywhere that you can, safely. (Turn signals and do not set the bike up for running lights.)

If you go with aux lights, purchase LED or HID style lights. I have been eying the Denali's myself

Denali Lights


Im sure by this point you have a volt meter on the bike as well as a tender plug for easy access.

Hope this helps.

-bryan

 

[Motogiro]

Thank you for the reply Bryan!

As far as running lights go I wouldn't eliminate them for the safety factor they represent. The running lights and tail light should be on on the same circuit but a separate circuit from the headlamps. This configuration is for the safety factor/design in the event the headlamp circuit fails. This way the bike has twice the possibility of some kind of light in the event of one of the circuits failing. Naturally this type of failure would be more critical at night. I know our state (Ca.) requires running lights on the front. Some bikes have separate light assemblies for the running lights and some incorporate a dual filament 1157 type lamp in the front signal stalks as the FZ6 does. One filament is the running lamp and the other is the directional signal filament.

I totally agree we can get more power with smarter power management and better components. I would caution that it's a good idea to retain the front running lights for safety as well as legal reasoning.

There is a way to wire LED directionals and have both circuits available in the single function LED. See attached schematic.