Any tips on using Mityvac for Brake bleeding?

[Boneman]

Just got my HEL SS brake lines yesterday (mmmmmmm) and I'll be installing them in the next few weeks (Carbon/Smoke with Gold banjos).

I picked up a Mityvac vacuum a while back and was just wondering if anyone here has used one for brake bleeding? I read the instructions for it last night and it seems very straight forward. I've done brake bleeding for cars many times, just never on a bike yet and never using a Mityvac.

I'll take any general brake bleeing tips too!

I'll be using DOT 4 brake fluid (non-synthetic) and doing a fulid flush at the same time.

 

[Ryan T]

I just did mine about a week ago but didn't have the mityvac. Just did it the standard way. Press, open bleeder, close bleeder release. I had the hose attached to the bleeder on one end and the other in a jar with brake fluid. Did this a few times for the rear brake and twice as much for the front and all seems to be working without a hitch on the test ride afterwards.

I know you won't have any problems, not with some of the mods you've already done. Hey, you're one of the guys here that I always pay attention to when you have a post. Crazy, funny, and wise is a heck of a combination.

Take it easy.

 

[Boneman]

Crazy, funny, and wise is a heck of a combination.

Thanks Ryan. I think I just found my new 'motto'!

BTW, would you mind emailing that to my wife too? She would never believe me if I said it....:thumbup:

 

[tuningfork]

I used one on my FZR600, it worked well although I would caution to make sure the the hose is very secure on the bleed nipple and to not open the nipple too far (to limit suction) it can pull air into the system otherwise (aroudn seals and such).

Have you seen the reverse-bleed kits?

Motion Pro - DIY BRAKE AND CLUTCH BLEEDER

They look like a big syringe and force fluid from caliper to master cylinder. These work great IMO because it pushes air bubbles up instead of pulling them down, something bubbles do not like to do. I have a setup like this for my MTB's hydro discs.

 

[Norbert]

I got a cheapo brake bleeder from Harbor Freight. It broke.
The brake fluid went back up through the "pump" and leaked out the other end (where your hand is at).
Fortunately nothing got onto my bike.
I think it was user error.
The bleeder hoses should always be submerged in fluid. When you first start, you should pour some new brake fluid to ensure that the hoses are submerged.
This should prevent air from going up the hoses and cause brake fluid from seeping out the other end (where your hand is at).

Not sure if this makes any sense, or is even factually accurate. Standard disclaimers apply. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, because I'd like to bleed my brakes again and not have a mess on my driveway.

 

[Boneman]

I used one on my FZR600, it worked well although I would caution to make sure the the hose is very secure on the bleed nipple and to not open the nipple too far (to limit suction) it can pull air into the system otherwise (aroudn seals and such).

Have you seen the reverse-bleed kits?

Motion Pro - DIY BRAKE AND CLUTCH BLEEDER

They look like a big syringe and force fluid from caliper to master cylinder. These work great IMO because it pushes air bubbles up instead of pulling them down, something bubbles do not like to do. I have a setup like this for my MTB's hydro discs.

Funny enough I did watch a video on Youtube yesterday with a guy (kinda goofy) doing a segment for his show and him using one of those uints on his car and exclaiming that bubbles (air) likes to go up, so why not go with what's natural for air = up!.

 

[reiobard]

ok, putting on my stupid hat..

I just got my SS brake lines too and was just planning on bleeding them like i bleed car brakes.... canister on the bottom, unscrew bleeder nipple and pump pump hold the brake lever until the bubbles stop coming out and make sure i keep enough fluid in the resevoir....


No?

do i need a bleeder? am i heading for a huge mess without at least some tubes on the bleeder nipples?

 

[Boneman]

ok, putting on my stupid hat..

I just got my SS brake lines too and was just planning on bleeding them like i bleed car brakes.... canister on the bottom, unscrew bleeder nipple and pump pump hold the brake lever until the bubbles stop coming out and make sure i keep enough fluid in the resevoir....


No?

do i need a bleeder? am i heading for a huge mess without at least some tubes on the bleeder nipples?

No you don't need a bleeder, they are just sometimes handy to use. Whenever I've done brake bleeding (car), I've always had a tube over the nipple and going into a jar of new fluid. This will keep air from being sucked back into the brake cylinder or caliper. You do the process you described, until you see solid fluid coming out of the nipple/tube with no bubbles in it. Exactly like this:

 

[Fred]

I can get a better bleed, and faster, using the manual method. My Mity-vac is in the garbage.

Skip the bottle of brake fluid on the end of the hose. It's useless except as a catch can.

Pumping the lever with the bleeder screw open will get you nowhere.

Open the screw. Squeeze the lever. Close the screw. Release the lever.

Repeat until the system is bled.

Bleeding the banjo bolts helps too. Loosen banjo bolt. Squeeze lever until fluid seeps out at banjo. Tighten bolt. Release lever. Wipe up fluid.

Fred

 

[LERecords]

so bone.. are you going to make us a write up on your site about how to properly use a miti-vac??? install new brake lines?? might be a good idea with a bunch of pictures too for lazy people like me who need a write up to learn :thumbup:

besides.. that and tires are the only things i dont play with on the bike.. i leave it to the professionals.. I would like to learn how to do a brake bleed on the fiz, thus making it alot less costly for me to change brake pads... so what do you say bone, writeup w/ pictures.. eh... :thumbup:

 

[Norbert]

so bone.. are you going to make us a write up on your site about how to properly use a miti-vac??? install new brake lines?? might be a good idea with a bunch of pictures too for lazy people like me who need a write up to learn :thumbup:

+ eleventy billion

 

[Norbert]

Bleeding the banjo bolts helps too. Loosen banjo bolt. Squeeze lever until fluid seeps out at banjo. Tighten bolt. Release lever. Wipe up fluid.

Fred

Do you mean to loosen the banjo bolts that go into the master cylinder?
Is that really a good idea?
Aren't they sealed by the crush washers?
Doesn't that technically mean that you would need new crush washers before re-tightening?

 

[reiobard]

found this excellent video on how to bleed brakes... this is what i will be doing!


Anyone know what to buy for a tube to run to a catch can? I am sure that i can figure it out by going to the store and looking, but this method looks great (and almost free) to me!

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkxcQzhgJLU]YouTube - Motorcycle Brake Bleeding Procedure from Sportbiketrackgear.com[/ame]

 

[Ryan T]

Thanks Ryan. I think I just found my new 'motto'!

BTW, would you mind emailing that to my wife too? She would never believe me if I said it....:thumbup:

More than happy to. She would probably think you paid me to say it (ha, ha).

 

[Boneman]

so bone.. are you going to make us a write up on your site about how to properly use a miti-vac??? install new brake lines?? might be a good idea with a bunch of pictures too for lazy people like me who need a write up to learn :thumbup:

so what do you say bone, writeup w/ pictures.. eh... :thumbup:

I'm on it like Sally Struthers on a danish! (nom, nom, nom)

Besides, my site needs some new updates anyway. They will include:

- HEL SS Brake Line installation
- Brake bleed using Mityvac (if I don't do it the manual way)
- Two Brothers CF Repacking

Stay tuned! :cheer:

[gonna start charging you lazy SOB's for this stuff....]

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When using the Mityvac, just make sure you have a vacuum on the gauge when the lower bleed valve(s) are open.

Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder as the MV will pull more fluid thru (quicker than doing the lever by hand). Also use the tightest fitting rubber boot (that fits inbetween the clear hose and the bleeder nipple).

It is not difficult on bikes with a smaller master cylinder to suck em dry in one pull if you have a bit of pressure and its not topped off fully. (Did that on my KLR 250 when practicing with it when it was new).

 

[LERecords]

yea but what about the prep involved.. like covering painted surfaces and such..

 

[Boneman]

yea but what about the prep involved.. like covering painted surfaces and such..

Mehhh. Never had an issue with brake fluid. If you wipe it up right away (some suggest using glass cleaner like Windex) it's not a problem. It's only a problem if you let it sit on a painted surface for more than 5min.
The only time I could see it getting messy is reomving the exisiting brake lines that are full of fluid.

But being a self proclaimed 'lazy person' LER, you'd have to get off the couch first in order to even start making a mess.....

 

[Boneman]

found this excellent video on how to bleed brakes... this is what i will be doing!

Great video! The Mityvac he shows at the begining is the EXACT one I bought.

After seeing this now, I might chicken out and go the old fashion route! But I think I'll at least try the Mityvac and if all else fails, use the ol failful method.

 

[LERecords]

But being a self proclaimed 'lazy person' LER, you'd have to get off the couch first in order to even start making a mess.....

in know right.. honestly im not that lazy to be on the couch 24/7.. but i do like a good writeup especially about things i kn ow very little about..

as for mess.. one time i changed the oil in the bike and "accidently" kicked the container of used oil (all 3 qts of it) all over the garage.. talk about a mess..