Brake line install help

[sideshow_downs]

I have had HEL braded lines in my garage for a while. Now that the wife just had surgery i cant venture off too far for a few days so ive becided it is finally time to put them on.

My questions are what type of brake fluid would be best? (any automotive or motorcycle spacific)

..and how much fluid is needed to fill the lines? I know to buy extra for bleeding i just dont want to have to go back to the store or wind up with a lot of extra

 

[mercm3]

I used motul DOT 5.1 fluid(NOT DOT5) and 1 container was plenty enough

 

[lytehouse]

I have had HEL braded lines in my garage for a while. Now that the wife just had surgery i cant venture off too far

You got married? Well Congratulations Eric! Very happy for you two.
Hope she is healing up ok....
oh and good luck with the brake thingy!

 

[RJ2112]

I have had HEL braded lines in my garage for a while. Now that the wife just had surgery i cant venture off too far for a few days so ive becided it is finally time to put them on.

My questions are what type of brake fluid would be best? (any automotive or motorcycle spacific)

..and how much fluid is needed to fill the lines? I know to buy extra for bleeding i just dont want to have to go back to the store or wind up with a lot of extra

As the seals in the calipers, and master cylinder are not being changed out.... go with what is marked on top of the resevoir. Whichever DOT rated fluid that is, use that grade. A one pint container will be plenty.... what you do not use, throw away. Once the container is open, the fluid will start to degrade just as quickly as it would installed on the bike.

There has to be some guidance on this forum for precautions when changing brake fluid...... if you can't find anything specific, we can run through the more obvious problems you can create.......

 

[sideshow_downs]

As the seals in the calipers, and master cylinder are not being changed out.... go with what is marked on top of the resevoir. Whichever DOT rated fluid that is, use that grade. A one pint container will be plenty.... what you do not use, throw away. Once the container is open, the fluid will start to degrade just as quickly as it would installed on the bike.

There has to be some guidance on this forum for precautions when changing brake fluid...... if you can't find anything specific, we can run through the more obvious problems you can create.......

Thanks for the info. Ive been working on cars pretty much since i could use a wrench. But I have never done brakes on a bike before and i wanted any info from people that have done a bike before. Thanks again though :thumbup:

 

[wrightme43]

Easy breezy man. I used the dot 4 or 5.1 either one will work fine. The small bottle will be more than enough. Its a good idea to flush the rear as well while your doing it. I flush and replace my fluid once a year. Racers do it even more often.

 

[sideshow_downs]

I got the full set of lines front and rear so i will be doing all of them. Thanks for the info though.

 

[RJ2112]

Thanks for the info. Ive been working on cars pretty much since i could use a wrench. But I have never done brakes on a bike before and i wanted any info from people that have done a bike before. Thanks again though :thumbup:

The biggest PITA doing a bike's lines, is that they are vertical...... makes if difficult to bleed out a bubble. Alternatively, it's a one person job -- you can reach the lever, and the schrader valve of inteterst with no outside assistance.

As you probably have two individual lines for the front instead of the 'loop over' from the right caliper to left like the OEM setup, it's not as difficult to bleed the bubbles out.

I have yet to buy a mighty vac..... I can manage to bleed the brakes with the standard pump, squeeze, bleed, seal, pump, squeeze technique. It's much easier if you use a catch bottle, and a clear piece of tubing to arc into the jar to prevent sucking a bubble into the schrader you are working on. Put some fresh fluid in the jar, to make sure the line attached to the schrader stays submerged, and you'll be golden.

 

[Gcontroller]

Another good way is to back bleed your lines. Get a big syringe fill it with fluid attach a hose to the end of it. Attach the other end to the bleed valves on your calipers. Open the valves and push fluid up the lines into the reservoir. Do a web search for more info. This has worked well for me.

 

[knightrider]

Another good way is to back bleed your lines. Get a big syringe fill it with fluid attach a hose to the end of it. Attach the other end to the bleed valves on your calipers. Open the valves and push fluid up the lines into the reservoir. Do a web search for more info. This has worked well for me.

That sounds even easier than using a Mity Vac. Might try that next as my Mity Vac skills aren't that great, so I waste a bunch of fluid.

 

[Speedygonzales]

That syringe methode isn't realy the best in my opinion.

The old school bleed technique is still the best.
It takes time, but if you ain't running a bike shop. Why hurry.

The jar with brake fluid is a good thing to do :thumbup: when bleeding.

As far as fluid. DOT 4, DOT 5.1 and Racing fluid (which states that you can use it in DOT4 systems ) is Ok.

NO DOT 5 !

 

[FZ6-ZN]

That sounds even easier than using a Mity Vac. Might try that next as my Mity Vac skills aren't that great, so I waste a bunch of fluid.

I always back bleed using a 60ml syringe; it’s a 5 minute job with no mess.

FZ6-ZN

 

[wolfc70]

I have always used a MityVac vacuum pump, it makes it much easier to do by yourself, and at around $30, not too big of an investment. It is no different than doing it on a car.

If you have issues getting a firm lever after bleeding, remove the caliper and move it around in your hand as you bleed it, this helps get trapped air out. Other than that, it is a pretty straight forward procedure, and a easy mod. Enjoy!!!!:cheer:

 

[Norbert]

I have always used a MityVac vacuum pump, it makes it much easier to do by yourself, and at around $30, not too big of an investment. It is no different than doing it on a car.

If you have issues getting a firm lever after bleeding, remove the caliper and move it around in your hand as you bleed it, this helps get trapped air out. Other than that, it is a pretty straight forward procedure, and a easy mod. Enjoy!!!!:cheer:

I heard lightly tapping the caliper with a rubber mallet helps get the air bubbles out. I think I saw it on a how-to video.

As others have noted for the brake bleeder, keep the end of the hose where the old brake fluid exits submerged in a jar of fluid. This should prevent air from entering the hose.

I neglected to do this when bleeding my rear brake and I believe that's why some fluid went back into the brake bleeder and leaked all over my driveway. (The rear brake & bike are ok now.) :thumbup:

Don't make the same (messy) mistake I did

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have always used a MityVac vacuum pump, it makes it much easier to do by yourself, and at around $30, not too big of an investment. It is no different than doing it on a car.

If you have issues getting a firm lever after bleeding, remove the caliper and move it around in your hand as you bleed it, this helps get trapped air out. Other than that, it is a pretty straight forward procedure, and a easy mod. Enjoy!!!!:cheer:

+1 on this. If still somewhat mushy, I'll also do a standard bleed (lever squeezed, bleed at bottom too) in addition to the Mity vac.

 

[Hellgate]

As others have said Mity Vac is great. Once I fill the line with the MV and get good feel in the lever I then change to the traditional method of bleeding to firm the lever the rest of the way.

I hope your wife heels up quickly.

 

[bergj1986]

I replaced both my front and rear brake lines with Galfer lines yesterday. Used about half of the small bottle of DOT4 brake fluid. Still have plenty left over.