R6 Cams

0l0dom0l0

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Been reading for ages, but still not found a definitive answer.

Do 5SL R6 cams bolt straight into the FZ6 head?

Thanks

Dom
 

Crashz28

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Just the cams yea bout 99% sure but you would be better off going with the whole R6 head and if you go that far just swap in the r6 motor!

Why gain just 3-4hp with the cams when you can get 6hp with the head swap or 15hp with the whole motor and fuel injection swap:thumbup: Look up my build thread the swap is not really that hard I could do it in a weekend if I had all the parts lined up
 

0l0dom0l0

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If I drop in the R6 cams, will I need to use the additional inlet valve spring from the R6 if I run a stock FZ6 red line?

Not sure if the spring will cope with the more aggressive profile.

I might be tempted to change the head, cams and head gasket. then as far as I can tell there are no other differences between the two engines, apart from the timing rotor and fuel fuel injection assembly.

There's little point in me swapping out the fuel injection and electronics. I've already got a power commander on the bike and the group injection will easily cope with the 10% or so more fuel the injectors need to flow to meet the requirements of the R6 head..

I can get a set of cams for £50 and that's probably the cheapest 5 bap money could ever buy ;)
 

fazil

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I've bougt a set of R6 cams from ebay one year ago. But still i had no time to install them. I also bought variable timing cam sprockets to advance the intake cam.

As i read in this forum long ago, some members have done this mod without any issues. Advancing the cam was done also. R6 cams are direct swap, no need to change valve springs.

Difference between the cam seen at first sight is, one of the R6 cams (i guess it was exhaust cam) have a timing ring on it, that FZ6 cams don't have. I gues it triggers ecu about cam timing.
 

0l0dom0l0

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Thanks you very much that's exactly what I needed to hear.

I also read that advancing the intake cam a couple of degrees gives a little more torque and hp overall.

I think my plan of action is to buy and install the cams. Get the bike on the bike on the dyno and see what the results are. If the power isn't starting to drop off near the Rev limiter then there's clearly more to go and I'll cross that bridge when it comes..

From what I read the R6 cams have gains right across the Rev range, do you know if this is the case?

And yes the difference between the two cam sets by eye is the ring. That's for the cam pposition sensor on the R6 which is needed by the ecu for the sequential fuel injection.

If I keep the standard ecu, this won't be needed ;)
 
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Crashz28

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Thanks you very much that's exactly what I needed to hear.

I also read that advancing the intake cam a couple of degrees gives a little more torque and hp overall.

I think my plan of action is to buy and install the cams. Get the bike on the bike on the dyno and see what the results are. If the power isn't starting to drop off near the Rev limiter then there's clearly more to go and I'll cross that bridge when it comes..

From what I read the R6 cams have gains right across the Rev range, do you know if this is the case?

And yes the difference between the two cam sets by eye is the ring. That's for the cam pposition sensor on the R6 which is needed by the ecu for the sequential fuel injection.

If I keep the standard ecu, this won't be needed ;)

You are correct you do not need that sensor if you keep the factory ecu!

Remember the r6 has almost or about 2,000 extra revs basicly the whole powerband gets shifted up 2k rpms but you get more power! Not sure you will see the power the factory throttle bodies are smaller than the r6 units
 

0l0dom0l0

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Remember the r6 has almost or about 2,000 extra revs basicly the whole powerband gets shifted up 2k rpms but you get more power! Not sure you will see the power the factory throttle bodies are smaller than the r6 units

I didn't think the throttle bodies were smaller? They fit straight into the R6 head?

But either way from what I remember reading the R6 cams gave more torque and power all through the rev range.

Not sure without doing it though.
 

iviyth0s

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I'm eager to see the turn out of this... (and also how much everything cost you, when all was said and done....not including dyno time rental)

Do you have an aftermarket exhaust??
 

Marthy

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If you're going to do all that do it right. I won't go blind with the R6's timing mark on the cam gear. Degree your cams with lobe center is the proper way to go. I don't know you very well but I could loan you my degree wheel and dial indicator for your project if you want. I used it to install the FZ6 cams on my 6R.
 

0l0dom0l0

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Currently the bike is running just over 95 hp at the wheel. Got a De cat pipe, scorpion exhaust (old style) power commander 3 usb and a quick shifter. Runs fantastic.

I want a smoother delivery though. 105 hp at the wheel would be perfect.

The swap will literally cost me £50 for the cams + whatever dyno time is needed to tune in the new cams.

Can I use the timing marks on the R6 cams as a starting point?
 

Crashz28

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I didn't think the throttle bodies were smaller? They fit straight into the R6 head?

But either way from what I remember reading the R6 cams gave more torque and power all through the rev range.

Not sure without doing it though.

The R6 has 38 or 40mm throttlebodies depending on the yr 05 had the largest for the update for more power which is the year I used! FZ6 had 36mm throttle bodies

The good thing about the R6 throttle bodies is the have a constant velocity slide in them to keep the throttle response good one of the main reasons I went ahead and swapped everything over on my bike!

The FZ6 computer will start and run a r6 motor but runs like crap and not sure if you can raise the rev limiter with the PC3 to take advantage of the cams!

The throttle bodies will swap the adapters to mount them on the head are the same I have gone between the 2!
 

yamihoe

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Sometimes people like the zingyness and peaky 2 stroke like powerband that is in a modern 600cc bike! Not sure why but I do!

I love how it screams but there just isnt the torque there.....You cannot beat the 1000cc bikes, 2x the torque is just amazing. Im sure we can spin a 20 valve to 15k ;)
 

Crashz28

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I love how it screams but there just isnt the torque there.....You cannot beat the 1000cc bikes, 2x the torque is just amazing. Im sure we can spin a 20 valve to 15k ;)

Some of the new literbikes are spining almost that high! I am a tall skinny bastard so the torque is not a big factor!

I used to have a 900RR with lots of motor work and some nitrous even when I went up to a 17t front sprocket from the 16t I could stand it up in 4th no problem! I just love the 600 class bikes I could have bought a zx14r when I got my 2013 ZX6R I could have rode out of the dealer on almost any bike there minus a few Ducs or BMWs lol!
 

Marthy

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The R6 has 38 or 40mm throttlebodies depending on the yr 05 had the largest for the update for more power which is the year I used! FZ6 had 36mm throttle bodies

The good thing about the R6 throttle bodies is the have a constant velocity slide in them to keep the throttle response good one of the main reasons I went ahead and swapped everything over on my bike!

The FZ6 computer will start and run a r6 motor but runs like crap and not sure if you can raise the rev limiter with the PC3 to take advantage of the cams!

The throttle bodies will swap the adapters to mount them on the head are the same I have gone between the 2!

That was the problem I had with the FZ6R and FZ6 cams, 12500 rev limiter. FZ6 cam lobe center are 105/105 stock. My best setting wad 102 on intake / 105 on exhaust. I did pick up an extra 7 hp on top or so. But the mid range was where I pick up the most. That was my whole point of saying to use a degree wheel. It time consuming but better do it right or not at all. Of course you can bang them in just whatever but that will give you whatever results.

102/104 end up to be the best numbers for the R1 cams in the FZ8 also. 1 degree doesn't seems much but its a world of difference.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

0l0dom0l0

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That was the problem I had with the FZ6R and FZ6 cams, 12500 rev limiter. FZ6 cam lobe center are 105/105 stock. My best setting wad 102 on intake / 105 on exhaust. I did pick up an extra 7 hp on top or so. But the mid range was where I pick up the most. That was my whole point of saying to use a degree wheel. It time consuming but better do it right or not at all. Of course you can bang them in just whatever but that will give you whatever results.

102/104 end up to be the best numbers for the R1 cams in the FZ8 also. 1 degree doesn't seems much but its a world of difference.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Very good info thank you. I do remember reading 2 degrees advance on the R6 cams in the FZ6 are the sweet spot. but I was reading that from a guy who's knowledge was being questioned lol.
.
Do you know what the standard R6 timing marks are? 105/105 as well?

Thanks for all the help so far everyone!
 

SweaterDude

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Sometimes people like the zingyness and peaky 2 stroke like powerband that is in a modern 600cc bike! Not sure why but I do!

and the handling of a shorter wheelbase... the FZ1 has really slow tip in and flick compared to the 6. although im sure that 190-55 tire would help with that (i think the stocker is a 190-50)
 

SweaterDude

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The R6 has 38 or 40mm throttlebodies depending on the yr 05 had the largest for the update for more power which is the year I used! FZ6 had 36mm throttle bodies

The good thing about the R6 throttle bodies is the have a constant velocity slide in them to keep the throttle response good one of the main reasons I went ahead and swapped everything over on my bike!

The FZ6 computer will start and run a r6 motor but runs like crap and not sure if you can raise the rev limiter with the PC3 to take advantage of the cams!

The throttle bodies will swap the adapters to mount them on the head are the same I have gone between the 2!

would it then also be possible to just put R6 TBs on the FZ without a head swap. just to get rid of the fuel cut choppiness? that would be a worthwhile mod if it doesnt need a re-map and such. i dont feel like losing gas mileage (and $500) over 2-3hp.
 
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