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Yamihoe's valves

yamihoe

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So with 25,948 miles on the odo I had enough time, and beer, to do the valves.
trip 1-167.8 (miles on that tank)
trip 2- 1910.2 (miles on oil change)

the intake valves were to be between .005-.008"
the exhaust valves were to be between .009-.011"

Intake- cylinder 1-(.006,.007) 2-(.006,.006) 3-(.006,.007) 4-(.007,.006)
Exhaust- cylinder 1-(.011,.011) 2-(.010,.011) 3-(.011,.011) 4-(.011,.010)

The whole thing is a bit of a pita but not unmanageable or unachievable in a few hours. I did not need to replace any gaskets but I did take a dab of silicone and run it around everything for good measure.
I took a few pointers from-http://www.fz6r-forum.com/forum/f91/fz6r-valve-adjustment-24098/ .


I would highly discourage anyone from doing this themselves if they have any doubt in their mechanical abilities!!!!

if you get any kind of trash (dirt, debris, etc.) into your engine it is VERY BAD. I took it for a little ride to make sure there werent any leaks and to run everything thru the oil filter once more before changing the oil.

I took the time to put some fancy new lights on there as well :D:D

Unfortunately on my way to get oil and a filter from work my car decided to try and kill itself....so i grabbed oil, a filter, AND a whole new intake manifold....so that took up the rest of the night.


NOW TO RIDE MORE!!!!!!!:rockon:
 
Good advice on the "don't attempt if you're not sure of your mechanical abilities."

I am not, so I won't. :)

Cheers :iconbeer:
 
I am still very impressed that these bikes can be so solid on their valves. To have so few riders need any adjustment at the first 26k mile check is outstanding!
 
^^ + 1
Excellent use of a white board! I'll keep that in mind!

Now Class, this is plug #1, read it and tell me what it says compared to plug #4! :rolleyes:

So, why is the intake off that engine? Hopefully it was just a A-Freeze leak or something simple. . .
 
the intake is off of a 4.6L Mustang....they are known for the water crossover being weak...it had about a 8" split right across the front....it let go about 4,800 rpms in 3rd gear....steam started rollin up from the hood.....My friend Mike was sittin next to me....he just looked over and said "well you wanted that new 5.0 swap, right?" I just gave him the "eat sh!t and die" look. Fortunately it was just the manifold, runs like a champ now :thumbup:
 
the intake is off of a 4.6L Mustang....they are known for the water crossover being weak...it had about a 8" split right across the front....it let go about 4,800 rpms in 3rd gear....steam started rollin up from the hood.....My friend Mike was sittin next to me....he just looked over and said "well you wanted that new 5.0 swap, right?" I just gave him the "eat sh!t and die" look. Fortunately it was just the manifold, runs like a champ now :thumbup:

I've got 06 Mazda 6 with a Ford Duratec 3l V6 in it, the shear volume of plastic used on things for fuel and coolant is begging for disobedience! A plastic T with coolant to the throttle body gave it up and made a similar vapor cloud under the hood recent;y Why the used so many plastic parts is beyond me. It will take many cars to their grave ahead of schedule. . .
 
just wait till they come out with a plastic cylinder head :BLAA:

The Aluminum used by most American car companies to build heads is horrible and i've seen water jackets washed completly out.... so a plastic head would probably be better!! LMAO! :BLAA:
 
I didn't know if you would loose ALL the oil or just some. I've just done a oil change so don't want to waste all that new shiny, clean oil ;)
 
yes it did lose oil....in hindsight you can just take out that little plug on the side :thumbup:

Or if you are lazy enough (like me) you could just turn the rear wheel with a gear on and check the correct cam position for the adjustment from the cam lobes :Flash:
 
I wouldnt do that...wait till you need an oil change. Whenever you take the valve cover off there will inevitably be something that gets in there so its best to change your oil after a heat cycle when you get everything back together.....

I didnt lose all the oil....just a tad.
 
Or if you are lazy enough (like me) you could just turn the rear wheel with a gear on and check the correct cam position for the adjustment from the cam lobes :Flash:


This sounds like a great way to knock the bike off the stand. . . :(
 
Or if you are lazy enough (like me) you could just turn the rear wheel with a gear on and check the correct cam position for the adjustment from the cam lobes :Flash:

Wow. Wish I would of thought to do something simple like that. I have the 55,000mi check coming soon and will use your kung fu technique. Thank you.
 
This sounds like a great way to knock the bike off the stand. . . :(

With the bike on the center stand, the bike won't fall if you use both your hands to turn the rear wheel and the spark plugs are out. And Yamihoe, I didn't put any extra stuff (dirt, nuts, bolts) inside the engine and I had just replaced the oil ~1tkm ago. The main reason I avoided opening the timing cover is because I would have had to remove the frame sliders too, the Yamaha original ones get in the way for this job.

Of course I would as well recommend doing this as described in the manual, but it can be done without opening the timing cover, just as the throttle bodies do not need removal, contrary to what is described in the service manual.
 
the tb's dont NEED to be removed, BUT it makes things TONS easier just taking them loose and pushing them back a bit.

yes, spinning the rear wheel with the plugs out is much easier:thumbup:
 
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