Wiring GPS and USB socket on ignition loop

[OpKrop]

Hi all,

I'm really, really new to both motorcycling (LOVE IT!) and mechanical/garage stuff. I ran into a little problem where I could use some pointers:

I want to fit both a 12v connector for my TomTom Rider 400 and a dual socket usb-connector onto my bike (I kinda need them for my trip this summer to the Scottish Highlands ). I could take the easy road and just connect them to the battery. But I'd love to connect them to the ignition loop, so I cannot forget to leave my GPS on, plus the USB socket has a blue led-light that keeps burning when connected to the battery.

Where on my FZ6 (2006) can I hook up these wires? Is it the fuse box, or just onto a wire that goes to and from the headlights e.g.?

Any tips would help greatly.

Thanks in advance,

OpKrop

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Simply tap (I use Posi taps) into the front, directional RUNNING LIGHT wire.

It'll power off and on with the key and its up front (inside the fairing) so you can hide your wiring..


I have my GPS tapped into that wire and grounded to a power-block (you can use the -battery terminal or any other good ground)

I would also encourage the use of a BMW style outlet, NOT a cig lighter socket as they tend to come loose, The Powerlet
sockets are made for bikes.

The load is so light, a relay, something else to install (and potentially fail later) is really NOT needed. Just make sure that line is fused. I believe my line has a 3 amp fuse.

If your going to plug an air compressor, heated clothing etc, (much MORE load) yes, I'd go with a relay set up.

 

[patrickb37]

Another option would be to run them to the battery through a relay, and connect the relay solenoid to a switched +12V source. That way you won't increase the current load (significantly) on the switched +12V source. (switched +12V source like headlights may not have enough margin in current capacity)

 

[dbldutch02]

Another option would be to run them to the battery through a relay, and connect the relay solenoid to a switched +12V source. That way you won't increase the current load (significantly) on the switched +12V source. (switched +12V source like headlights may not have enough margin in current capacity)

^^what he said^^, that way you can give it dedicated wiring, with it's own fuse. It's pretty easy to pick up the trigger wire on the dimmed beam relay (in the left rear pod). That way the circuit only works when the engine is running.

And from hugely enjoyable experience in the Highlands, buy a map rather than just using satnav, it shows so much more and is easier to discuss in the pub - the locals can show you the next place to go - great way to travel

 

[TxAg2015]

+1 on Posi-taps. Every other way to tap into an existing wire always feels like a mistake.

If you want to go the relay route, a somewhat more expensive but really clean way to go is something like this: 3 Circuit
That one has room for 3 fused accessory circuits, but they have a 1 circuit version and some behemoth 8 circuit junction box as well.
I used this 3CS on my old Ninja 500 for heated grips, phone charger, and cruise control. Compared to trying wire in a relay and everything on your own (which I did at one point), it's much cleaner and easier. Saves a good bit of time on the install too. It is a little pricey though, so you might just want to do a relay yourself if you're trying to keep costs down. Good luck!

 

[FinalImpact]

This is a non-invasive quick easy access but I would limit current to two 10amp fuses max...

Bussman Fuse Block # BP/HHH-RP

It takes an ATM style fuse like those on the bike. Amazoo has them for $7.00 using PN above.

The wire feeding the tail light fuse is nearly twice the strand count (size) of the outbound wire to the brake light. It is a good choice for power IF DONE properly.
I used it to power the Bazzaz fuel controller and data logger. Hint that also heats a wide band O2 sensor... its been on there a year and no issues so far. Plus it fits under the pod. Just apply dielectric grease to the contacts as the lid for the original fuce will not close.

Another picture here too.
Or ..https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/BUSSMANN-Fuse-Tap-6CJE7


Edit: adding tag
JJD952 Electrical Fuse

 

[trepetti]

I had added some things and was unhappy with the growing rats nest. So I went for a Fuzeblock FZ1, about 90 bucks. I ran 1 pair of wires to the battery and used a PosiTap to connect to the low beam wire for switched power. It is light enough to use industrial Velcro inside the fairing, and it offers 6 connections each individually fused and switchable from always on to switched. I used the low beam wire to ensure that the motor was running when using the switched circuits. Could easily tap the running lights like Scott suggested if you only want the key on.