What tools?

[pulsar2]

Last evening I set out to change the oil and spent over an hour trying to remove the oil drain bolt(I had tightened it myself - with a breaker bar :spank. The only way forward was to get a 17mm socket and a breaker bar with extension. Out of desperation, I ran to the nearest Harbor freight to get the tools and I picked up more sockets than needed and some extension sets which were not really required.
And then came the problem of the stuck filter which I had remember I had hand tightened. This one got 2hrs of desperation, cursing and almost deciding to put a screwdriver into it before it loosened.

Although I seemed to have strengthened my hands by this exercise, I would prefer to have known what tools to use before I started any more DIY.

So for all the DIY ppl out here - please list list down what tools you use for regular activities - socket sizes, special tools and links if possible. We can then compile and sticky it?.

This would prevent major frustration during regular maintenance work.

 

[greg]

I have something like this, mine's a slightly different toolkit, but I bought extra spanners.

A decent set of sockets will last a long time.

 

[pulsar2]

I was looking for a bit more idiot proof list, like this :

Oil change :
Required tools : 17mm socket with extension for oil drain bolt. Oil filter wrench/socket for plain filters/XXmmsocket for KN filters.

The above is an example, we could fill up for each activity so that we know what is needed before the actual maintenance work. And if the list is available as a sticky, I guess looking up would be much easier than searching for that odd bolt/socket size with greasy hands.

 

[Motogiro]

A decent torque wrench comes to mind. You may need more than one for the torque range of what ever you're working on. You may end up breaking out the thread or cracking the pan when you use the wrong torque to tighten the oil drain plug. Many have done this to their bike.

When you say breaker bar what size breaker bar are you talking about?

There are torque charts to go by. As you become experienced as a wrencher you will learn the feel of a crush washer and when to stop tightening. Or pretty much any part you're working with as well as respect and adhere to critical torque specs. on internals.

Oil filter: Make sure mating surfaces are clean. Wipe new oil onto O ring. Install filter hand tight and then tighten 3/4 to 1 turn. After engine is filled with oi,l run it and check filter for leaks.

I greatly respect and encourage anyone who decides to learn and do their own work. In the long run it's better for everyone.

The best tool you have have is already in your possession.

 

[FinalImpact]

A decent torque wrench comes to mind. You may need more than one for the torque range of what ever you're working on. You may end up breaking out the thread or cracking the pan when you use the wrong torque to tighten the oil drain plug. Many have done this to their bike.

When you say breaker bar what size breaker bar are you talking about?

There are torque charts to go by. As you become experienced as a wrencher you will learn the feel of a crush washer and when to stop tightening. Or pretty much any part you're working with as well as respect and adhere to critical torque specs. on internals.

Oil filter: Make sure mating surfaces are clean. Wipe new oil onto O ring. Install filter hand tight and then tighten 3/4 to 1 turn. After engine is filled with oi,l run it and check filter for leaks.

I greatly respect and encourage anyone who decides to learn and do their own work. In the long run it's better for everyone.

The best tool you have have is already in your possession.

Yep, those are the basics that everyone should know. ALSO - ALWAYS confirm the O-ring came off with the last filter and is NOT stuck to the block!

PS - there is a list over here... Show us your "FZ" special tools
http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...s-your-fz-special-tools.html?highlight=tools,

 

[FloppyRunner]

For what its worth, I'd estimate three out of four times I need to drive a screw driver through the oil filter to get it off. When I put them on, I rarely get to 1 full turn. Maybe it's just my 12 year old girl arms, but my point is that there's nothing wrong with the screwdriver method, beyond it being a bit messy.

As for the plug, it could have been worse. You could have driven 50 miles to work only to remember when you see a very small puddle under your bike that you only finger-tightened the drain plug. Not that I speak from personal experience or anything...

 

[FinalImpact]

I stumbled upon an old thread this morning that has some relevance here.

Paste:

When the head of bolt stops turning, you better be paying attention.

Drain plug mission statement;
1, tight enough I don't fall out.
2, tight enough I don't leak.
3, loose enough I don't damage me or anything around me
4, loose enough I'll come out again.

This can be done with an 8" wrench.

Thanks Erci

Here's how you can figure out proper torque for any given bolt: tighten until the head snaps off and then back off a quarter turn :rof:

:spank: :spank: :spank:

I would opt for some large Channel locks over screw driver and or a simple band wrench.

This is the Ticket for our application: Lisle PN: 63600, goes to 2.5" = perfect for us
See pic: https://www.google.com/search?q=lis...-byASXkoGIDg&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAw&biw=1064&bih=670

 

[pulsar2]

When you say breaker bar what size breaker bar are you talking about?

Well, it was the biggest there(at a friend's place) - I thought since it was easy to get the bolt out - it would be less effort to torque the bolt back using the same thing. I thought by gently tightening - the torque would be fine Blah . Now I know what tool not to use to tighten stuff - breaker bar strictly only for loosening things.

 

[Motogiro]

Thanks Erci...Here's how you can figure out proper torque for any given bolt: tighten until the head snaps off and then back off a quarter turn :rof:

LMAO!:rof::rof::rof: