trailer tips?

[08-FZ6]

I am picking up a trailer from I guy I work with and plan on trailering my bike from VA to NY. I plan on following my wife on the bike maybe about half way and then throwing it on the trailer. (It is an 8 hour drive which is a lot longer than I have been on a bike in one sitting.) Does anybody have any advice on how to make sure my FZ is nice and secure on there? I plan on using ratchet straps but was just wondering if anyone had any tips/tricks.

 

[FZ1inNH]

Here's some in no specific order...

1. Use tie downs with carabiners or latch hooks on the end so they don't pop out
2. Don't compress the suspension more than 1.5"
3. Use a wheel chock if you can get one.
4. Make a chock out of wood if you cannot get one.
5. be sure the bike is close to centered over the axle of the trailer.
6. Use soft ties when attaching to the bike if possible.
7. Buy the heaviest straps you can afford (with the carabiners or snap hooks on both ends)
8. Check the straps every fill-up

 

[08-FZ6]

Here's some in no specific order...

1. Use tie downs with carabiners or latch hooks on the end so they don't pop out
2. Don't compress the suspension more than 1.5"
3. Use a wheel chock if you can get one.
4. Make a chock out of wood if you cannot get one.
5. be sure the bike is close to centered over the axle of the trailer.
6. Use soft ties when attaching to the bike if possible.
7. Buy the heaviest straps you can afford (with the carabiners or snap hooks on both ends)
8. Check the straps every fill-up

Thanks for the tips! Also, I will only be using the trailer for the bike so I thought about fabricating something on it, kind of like permanent chock blocks. I'm glad you mentioned the suspension, I didn't even think of that.

 

[FZ1inNH]

If you have time, order a chock from Harbor Freight. This is what I bought and love them!

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

[08-FZ6]

If you have time, order a chock from Harbor Freight. This is what I bought and love them!

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

That is perfect!!!! Thanks again!!! I am ordering one now.

 

[FZ1inNH]

That is perfect!!!! Thanks again!!! I am ordering one now.

Wish we'd heard about this last week. It was on sale $10 cheaper. Still a bargain at $39.95 though!

Here's some shots of mine in case you missed the previous thread about it.

View attachment 19292 View attachment 19293 View attachment 19294

View attachment 19295 View attachment 19296

 

[FZ1inNH]

BTW, the tie downs I bought at Home Depot. They create soft-ties on their own, are very heavy and thick, have snap hooks on each end and are ratcheting as well. Love them!!

 

[crobinson1324]

I would suggest the use of a handle bar strap as well. You can get one of these and your Yamaha dealer and use it with one of your straps. It provides two very solid anchor points on the front and dosent allow the straps to come into contact with your bike so it dosent scar the paint. It has been a while since I bought mine but I think it was $19.99 or something like that. Hope this helps, have a great trip and enjoy your new motorcycle!!!!

 

[Jim Karam]

Make sure the "rear" straps are also pulling a bit to the front so that they also are forcing the bike into the front wheel chock. I've attached a pic of my old Kendon trailer that does this by design. I also recommend that you simply attach your soft ties around the front wheel's lower triple. They will clear the body work without causing any loading on the handlebars.

 

[blchandl2]

I would suggest the use of a handle bar strap as well. You can get one of these and your Yamaha dealer and use it with one of your straps. It provides two very solid anchor points on the front and dosent allow the straps to come into contact with your bike so it dosent scar the paint. It has been a while since I bought mine but I think it was $19.99 or something like that. Hope this helps, have a great trip and enjoy your new motorcycle!!!!

I would recommend this type of handlebar strap vs. the Canyon Dancer type.

Cycle Cynch - Product - Cycle Cynch

It is more expensive but once you pay to replace your switchgear, you will wish you spent more on the strap. I know from experience, I had to replace the left switchgear on my FJR due to using the Canyon Dancer.

 

[Andz]

[*]Don't compress the suspension more than 1.5"

I always pull the straps down as far as the forks will go. Done this 5 years in a row for a trip of a thousand miles each way ten days apart with no suspension problems or seal weeping.

 

[DefyInertia]

a low gas tank will make loanding and unloading easier.

 

[npshultz]

Why trailer?

 

[FZ1inNH]

I always pull the straps down as far as the forks will go. Done this 5 years in a row for a trip of a thousand miles each way ten days apart with no suspension problems or seal weeping.

I'm going to strongly disagree with this statement. You want travel left in the suspension for when the trailer hits bad bumps. Pulling the straps tight just means that every bump will be transferred directly to the seals. Not what you want your traveling iron horse to experience.

This is also why you have closed hooks on each end. When the bike compresses on a really bad jolt, the hooks won't let go, just recover and be back to holding the bike.

 

[Andz]

I'm going to strongly disagree with this statement. You want travel left in the suspension for when the trailer hits bad bumps.

I was saying what works for me. There is still movement in the suspension.

 

[FZ1inNH]

I was saying what works for me. There is still movement in the suspension.

As am I... But I do have to ask... How much travel is left when you have the straps pulled "as far as the forks will go" though? You aren't concerned about he fork seals blowing with a solid jolt?

I'm not being an arse, just asking out of pure curiosity. Thanks!

 

[Andz]

As am I... But I do have to ask... How much travel is left when you have the straps pulled "as far as the forks will go" though? You aren't concerned about he fork seals blowing with a solid jolt?

I'm not being an arse, just asking out of pure curiosity. Thanks!

Okay I should have said I pull them as far as I can. Just cos I can't pull them further doesn't mean there is no travel left

I don't have ratchet straps, just pull down and there is a spring loaded clamp. Trailered over 10,000 miles like this and there isn't a hint of oil on the forks, and believe me the road to Cape Town is a bit bumpy in places!

 

[FZ1inNH]

Okay I should have said I pull them as far as I can. Just cos I can't pull them further doesn't mean there is no travel left

I don't have ratchet straps, just pull down and there is a spring loaded clamp. Trailered over 10,000 miles like this and there isn't a hint of oil on the forks, and believe me the road to Cape Town is a bit bumpy in places!

Ok... yes, with the ratcheting straps, a person needs to pay close attention to the suspension because the only gauge here is eyeball or measurement. The straps you pull can be gauged with your hands and unless you're a really strong person, you're not likely to fully compress the springs. With the ratchet straps, you can go until something let's go.

So a combined tip from both of us: Pull firmly but ratchet precisely!

 

[Cali rider]

Okay I should have said I pull them as far as I can. Just cos I can't pull them further doesn't mean there is no travel left

I don't have ratchet straps, just pull down and there is a spring loaded clamp. Trailered over 10,000 miles like this and there isn't a hint of oil on the forks, and believe me the road to Cape Town is a bit bumpy in places!

I agree with cinching the straps very tight, as I don't want the bike to move around. The suspension on the trailer will take care of the rough road.

As far as the seals being loaded, what's the problem? Pulled down tight, the pressure in the forks is maybe 30-40 PSI, and lip seals on a smooth surface such as the fork tube can probably handle 300 PSI before failure. They normally develop leaks from damage due to grit, NOT excessive pressure.

 

[Brooks]

If you can secure your bike without compressing the front or rear suspension you don't have to worry about blowing fork seals, shocks or damaging handlebars.. Use the Harbor Freight shock mentioned or a better chock such as the Baxley, AND one of these Tyre-down rear wheel ratchet straps here...KYA RACING

Let the bike ride on its own un-compressed suspension.