Tire change after-effects

[pulsar2]

I just got new tires(Metzeler Z8) installed at a dealership and started noticing a high pitched noise from the rear of the bike whenever I go over 55mph. Maybe its just my heightened sensitivity after letting someone work on the bike, but I felt the following things immediately after getting the tires changed -
- increased vibration at the handle
- felt a slight wobble initially, dont feel it much now
- slight rubbing noise of the front disk at low speeds
- a slightly rougher ride (maybe coz my older tires were inflated only around 30psi)
- a loud whining noise from the rear at speeds greater than 55mph

Just to be sure, I checked the following :
- Front tire pressure - 35psi
- Rear tire pressure - 45psi - immediately reduced it to around 38psi

After this, the ride is a bit less rough and there is no feeling of wobble. Then I checked the chain slack - It was like tight rope with the bike on side stand!!

I put it on center stand and see very less - maybe an inch of slack in the chain. I have increased the slack in the chain now to about 2inches, yet to see if the noise reduces.

So this is where I need some suggestions - just to gain some peace of mind after paying $126 at the dealership :
1. What else do I need to check to make sure the wheels have been put back the way they should?
2. The rubbing noise of the front wheel - what could be the reason (I did feel the front has become a bit spongy after this.. will change fluid and see)?
3. How to quickly check if the wheels are aligned and balanced properly?

On the hindsight, I should have stuck to my initial plan to remove the wheels myself, could have saved $60 and all the additional tinkering!! Laziness surely has its price :spank:

 

[Ssky0078]

I just had tires put on my bike and the tech mentioned about whine noises from either imbalanced wheel/tire or from the wheel bearings going out

I'm sure some of the more mechanically inclined guys here can give better advice.

 

[PhotoAl]

had the chain too tight one time and had the whine. Didn't get it fixed quck enough and wound up having to replace a bearing in the rear wheel. 2 inches sounds a little loose to me, check the manual to see what it should be. Experience showed me that the chain makes the least noise when closer the the max than closer to the min setting.

 

[Gelvatron]

when i did my rear chain a few weekends ago, i lubed everything inside the rear tire cleaned my rear pads and rotors and hit them with a little sandpaper to get the grooves out i swear i went from vibration city to 0 maybe its just me but if you live close ill let anyone ride it.

i swear it feels like im on a slip and slide no vibes at all, i suggest

1. lube the rear axle spacers and bearings
2. chain slack (45mm-55m roughly 1.75in-2.10in) i also use 2 inch and clean chain
3. clean rear rotor and pads ( use a little sand paper to take of glazing and wear rings)
4.swing arm lubed only if you tear down as far as i did

 

[dxh24]

Typical lame shop job... A bike mechanic should know chain slack specs... If check your front end, and the rear for that matter, to make sure your tire is centered, sounds like wobble and noise coming from either unbalanced tire or its not centered correctly.

 

[dxh24]

To check wheel balance- get the tire off the ground, spin it, if it doesn't spin smoothly and appears to have a heavy spot that wants to stay on the bottom, it's unbalanced...

To check center?(rear tire anyhow), quick and dirty way it to watch how your chain comes off your rear sprocket as you spin the wheel, if it comes off crooked or has less space between the inner chain link and the sprocket than the other side, it's off center. The precise way is to measure the distance per your manual instructions.

The brakes shouldn't be the issue if the were fine before the tire install. Bearings might be the issue but I think you'd have noticed before the install... My guess is improper tire install or a bum tire

 

[Motogiro]

Chain slack and wheel alignment would be my first look.

How many miles on your chain and sprockets worn components will cause noise.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

To check wheel balance- get the tire off the ground, spin it, if it doesn't spin smoothly and appears to have a heavy spot that wants to stay on the bottom, it's unbalanced...

To check center?(rear tire anyhow), quick and dirty way it to watch how your chain comes off your rear sprocket as you spin the wheel, if it comes off crooked or has less space between the inner chain link and the sprocket than the other side, it's off center. The precise way is to measure the distance per your manual instructions.

The brakes shouldn't be the issue if the were fine before the tire install. Bearings might be the issue but I think you'd have noticed before the install... My guess is improper tire install or a bum tire

Just to add to this, remove the brake calipers as they'll apply too much friction to get an accurate reading. I would also loosen up the axle. As posted above, if its out of balance, the heavy spot will keep rotating to the bottom...

I'm hoping that with the chain way too tight initially, it didn't damage the rear, sprocket hub bearing. That little bearing supports the entire sprocket hub (about $20.00). We just had a member replace his:

I'd pull the rear wheel off, remove the sprocket hub with the sprocket and feel the inner bearing.

Please read this thread, especially towards the end, very similar to your issues:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/48413-cct-safe-ride.html

 

[Tailgate]

I noticed that at least one shop around here includes wheel removal with tire change fees. Well, I'm actually glad that Cycle Gear tire change service only accepts wheels taken off by the owner because I don't end up having to second guess these kind of issues.

 

[ltdillard]

I just got the exact same tires. After re-install on the bike had the same symptoms. I re-did the "string align" method and found the rear was off a tad. I thought I had my chain slack about right, so I think my noise was strictly from mis-alignment of the rear tire. After the rework I had no more issues.

(not the right thread for this, but I found the "string align" method somewhat problematic as the front tire is more narrow than rear, so it was difficult to get enough clearance so there was actual space between the front edge of the rear tire, and the sting. I read to stick a pencil between tire and string on back edge or read tire, but that didn't give enough clearance. Ended up with some larger wooden dowel, but these additions seem to compromise the accuracy. Should be a better way!)

 

[pulsar2]

Thanks for all the inputs guys, I feel a bit more confident now to isolate the problem. I recently got the bike with about 4500miles on it, and it had been barely ridden over the last two years. Maybe nothing on the bike was properly lubricated during that time.

The chain slack is ok now, but I will get to test it out only later this week. Thanks Scott for pointing out the older thread, I feel it might be a similar problem. The tighter chain might have just made it worse with an already worn bearing.

Well, I'm actually glad that Cycle Gear tire change service only accepts wheels taken off by the owner because I don't end up having to second guess these kind of issues.

- I too wanted to go the same way, but then I didn't want to look like a mechanic/make the bike look like a wreck by tinkering with it every weekend. I have been working on it since I got it - changed battery thrice, engine oil/coolant change, changed indicators twice, changed the electronic relay for the indicator... and I am yet to change the brake fluid. Just for one weekend, I thought I will pay and get the work completed like regular people. Instead, I ended up adding one more DIY task to the list.

 

[pookamatic]

Just for one weekend, I thought I will pay and get the work completed like regular people. Instead, I ended up adding one more DIY task to the list.

Just when you think you're handing over your pride and joy to a "professional".... In reality, you giving your bike to a person who doesn't get paid a whole lot, possibly hates his job, and will treat your ride like any other pile of assembled parts that stand between him and quittin' time.

 

[dxh24]

Just when you think you're handing over your pride and joy to a "professional".... In reality, you giving your bike to a person who doesn't get paid a whole lot, possibly hates his job, and will treat your ride like any other pile of assembled parts that stand between him and quittin' time.

Well put, it seems a lot harder to find a good bike shop than it is a car shop, I'm still looking lol

 

[pulsar2]

Finally got around to ride this weekend to check on the noise and the chain slack - It think its fixed!! The noise is gone now and chain rolls freely without any tight spots :thumbup: .

Did a two-up also this weekend - maiden ride with my wife in the pillion. Perfect ride, great tires too. With the old tires, I didn't have any confidence tipping the bike through some simple turns. The new Z8s:thumbup::thumbup:, I was enjoying the curves even better - with a pillion!!!

 

[deeptekkie]

What everyone said plus as my old Dad used to say: Some tires just sing at certain speeds! My front Bridgestone does somewhat. (Check your tire pressures cold)

 

[pulsar2]

The wobble problem is finally solved after replacement of the destroyed front bearing. One of the front bearing was totally destroyed with a few crushed ball bearings and metallic debri floating between the wheel and the spacer. The other bearing showed signs of rust and metal dust on it. There was no grease/lubricant on both the bearings and they looked very dry. Because of the rust and debri, I couldn't pull them off the wheel even after WD40 wash and renting a bearing puller. Thought of creating a DIY picture walk-though of the bearing replacement... but had to run to the shop instead.

Here are the pictures after I pulled the wheel - notice the spacer scratched all over its length. I have replaced both the bearings now, and hopefully all is well.

 

[motojoe122]

Im not sure if it makes a difference, but I would smooth out that spacer or replace it.

 

[FinalImpact]

The wobble problem is finally solved after replacement of the destroyed front bearing. One of the front bearing was totally destroyed with a few crushed ball bearings and metallic debri floating between the wheel and the spacer. The other bearing showed signs of rust and metal dust on it. There was no grease/lubricant on both the bearings and they looked very dry. Because of the rust and debri, I couldn't pull them off the wheel even after WD40 wash and renting a bearing puller. Thought of creating a DIY picture walk-though of the bearing replacement... but had to run to the shop instead.

Here are the pictures after I pulled the wheel - notice the spacer scratched all over its length. I have replaced both the bearings now, and hopefully all is well.

WOW!
Glad this came out w/out an accident! As I mentioned in another thread, did you inspect the rear just in case the previous owner had this bike in the water? Grease typically is gone because it was degraded by water ingress. I would want to to know why this happened.
As for the spacer being marred up, it shouldn't hurt anything other than your eyes.

So did a shop remove and install the bearings?