Tight Clutch

[keog]

Hi all, My FZ6S cluth seems very tight to pull and free's up a bit when I lubricate it but always gets tight again in a week or two. Has Anyone had this problem ?

 

[FrozenBiker]

Is your cable binding anywhere? I'd remove the cable from both ends, and inspect it for kinks.
Other than that, ya got me.. Replacement?

 

[keog]

I had the shop that sold the bike to me last August look at it and they said the cable looked perfect but they did not take it out of its sleeve. they lubed it up with an oiling attacment that gets pressure down the sleeve. It didnt work for too long either. If there is no other area to look at ( springs ) or pivot point, then ill have to replace the cable I suppose !

 

[FrozenBiker]

Sorry, what I meant was "disconnect the cable at both ends". It cannot be removed from the sheathing of course.

 

[keog]

Ok, Thanks ill do that and see how it feels and if its restricted of movement ill fit a new one.
Cheers

 

[hk_fz6_05]

I have the same thing. At the shop they tell me it's down to the cable fraying slightly in old age and a sign of needing replacement. Also told me newer cables are kevlar or some such that don't really benefit from lubing....don't know for certain about this, but they're usually on the money.

I'm still working up towards replacing mine.

 

[pookamatic]

Liking this no maintenance cable talk... opcorn:

I'd say if there are no kinks and everything is lubed up, replace the cable. I think it's only 30-40 dollars.

 

[FinalImpact]

The FSM says to use Engine Oil - 30wt IIRC. Mine lasts about 30 - 40 days and needs it again.

If it never gets too cold in your locale, greasing it with light teflon grease might be an alternative and may hold up longer. Please let us know if you try it. The problem is, getting it in there!

I use a small syringe and a flexible teflon tube that fits inside between the cable and housing so no disassembly is required.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Someone in another thread awile ago, posted the sleeve inside was moving, not the cable inside the sleeve. (The cable was seized/bound up with the sleeve).

All the lube in the world won't help that, the cable needs replacement. If you can see the inside of the sheath moving, its time for a new cable.


BTW, I use both cable specific spray (with the clamp on tool) or chain lube with graphite. Both work very well, I can go months without a re-spray.. Its the original cable, 15,400 miles, 2007.

If in doubt, IMO, just replace it...

 

[KingY]

I was once told by my local yamaha garage its a common thing with the FZ6S, due to the way the cable is routed it causes friction and the inner cable expands, they said it was a design fault and if not lubed frequently you will be replacing them often. My FZ6N doesn't seem to be as bad as my old S and i haven't lubed it once in over 10k miles. I tend to just replace the cable once a year

Then again my throttle cables also are acting up and my throttle requires death grip to turn it

 

[iSteve]

When I bought my FZ I picked up a spare clutch cable $26 just because I like having one just in case. I lubed the original twice then changed it at 15k miles. It only takes maybe 10 or 15 minutes and you can do a air filter while your at it.

The original was still working but the teflon liner was moving inside the casing I think because of the lube.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I was once told by my local yamaha garage its a common thing with the FZ6S, due to the way the cable is routed it causes friction and the inner cable expands, they said it was a design fault and if not lubed frequently you will be replacing them often. My FZ6N doesn't seem to be as bad as my old S and i haven't lubed it once in over 10k miles. I tend to just replace the cable once a year

Then again my throttle cables also are acting up and my throttle requires death grip to turn it

The only thing odd about the FZ clutch cable is at the lower end, just above the engine. Where it loops across, is somewhat low and lube tends to collect there. Pressure lubing also tends to loose a bunch at the mid-adjuster junction.

As you can see from my owners manual, chain lube or oil is recommended (maintainance) every 4,000 miles.

Going 10,000 miles, your clutch/throttle will be considerably harder and will wear (as you know) considerably faster..

 

[KingY]

The only thing odd about the FZ clutch cable is at the lower end, just above the engine. Where it loops across, is somewhat low and lube tends to collect there. Pressure lubing also tends to loose a bunch at the mid-adjuster junction.

As you can see from my owners manual, chain lube or oil is recommended (maintainance) every 4,000 miles.

Going 10,000 miles, your clutch/throttle will be considerably harder and will wear (as you know) considerably faster..

you don't need to tell me twice :BLAA:

I need to replace both throttle and clutch cable ready for the summer, the clutch i can do easily don't know if to tackle the throttle one either after reading some threads on here. might get mech to save me the hassle.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

you don't need to tell me twice :BLAA:

I need to replace both throttle and clutch cable ready for the summer, the clutch i can do easily don't know if to tackle the throttle one either after reading some threads on here. might get mech to save me the hassle.

If you can do the clutch cable, you can do the throttle cables...

 

[KingY]

im glad some one has faith in me lol, But its worth a shot, gonna order the parts and have a look. getting tired of hand cramps after a longer or spirited ride

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

im glad some one has faith in me lol, But its worth a shot, gonna order the parts and have a look. getting tired of hand cramps after a longer or spirited ride

You can see the bottom ends on the right side of the engine, by the frame. Its tight but the hardest part is just getting the lock nuts loose.

The throttle itself has (I believe) three different lenth screws holding it together. Once that housing is split, remove one cable at a time and replace it with the new one (the routing should actually be easier than the clutch as there aren't any retainers). I'd clean inside the throttle tube and bar as grit tends to build up in there. A little oil won't hurt either in there.

Just make sure that once adjusted, the return cable has a little slack (doesn't bind with the PULL cable).

Obviously, the top cable on the throttle is the pull cable, just look at the TB's, left side to make sure you hook up to the correct end of the TB "disk/pully".

 

[KingY]

yea i have had the throttle housing on the bars apart before to install my hand guards, the acerbis ones that mount where the bar end should be.

I will just follow the route, the only thing i worry is the adjusting part at the end with the cables down by the TB's

Mine deffo needs cleaning under the grip to.

+++ SIDE NOTE +++

I over did the fixing for the acerbid hand guard on the throttle side and this expanded my bars on the throttle side a tad, had to strip the grip and sand and file down the bar for a better fit so there will always be a tiny bit of drag on the grip, what oil do you recommend for under the throttle tube?

Sorry for long ass message

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

yea i have had the throttle housing on the bars apart before to install my hand guards, the acerbis ones that mount where the bar end should be.

I will just follow the route, the only thing i worry is the adjusting part at the end with the cables down by the TB's

Mine deffo needs cleaning under the grip to.

+++ SIDE NOTE +++

I over did the fixing for the acerbid hand guard on the throttle side and this expanded my bars on the throttle side a tad, had to strip the grip and sand and file down the bar for a better fit so there will always be a tiny bit of drag on the grip, what oil do you recommend for under the throttle tube?

Sorry for long ass message

10-30, is fine, just a little bit. The more you put down, the more it'll attract grit.

As for the adjustments, there's really no solid stop in the throttle assembly.

While installing it, before you close up, just adjust the cables so there's about the same amount if slack in both cables (you can feel the slop/tension at the bottom attachment point where both cables are visable).

The play on mine is roughly 1/8". I also have it adjusted so there's NO play, with the bars lock to lock and the cables don't pull the throttle open..

Keep in mind, down the road, the pull cable is going to stretch (with wear and tear) so leave yourself some room up top (turn the pull adjuster almost all the way in, leave a little in case you get it too tight).

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ more than anything if you could keep the bar end from rusting it would be fine. I personally WOULD NOT PLACE 30WT on the throttle tube. Use a dry telfon if anything.

Its just going to git grime ridden and bind with oil.

As for the throttle cables, it may take a few tries to get them adjusted proper. I would suggest NOT connecting the return at the TB at first and get the opening action working proper w/right amount of slack.

You'll want minimal fuel in the tank when you proceed.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think you'll find once the old cables are removed, its easier to install the lower, (at the trottle bodies) ends first (both of them). This is because the barrel ends and cable make a fairly sharp turn to get onto the TB "wheel/sprocket" and the space is very tight.

Using a needle nose pliers and gently getting the barrel end first with the least amount of twisting at the cable end is preferred.

Its considerably easier to attach the cables to the throttle tube after that.

The 04 manual doesn't address adjustment (at least I couldn't find it) but the 07-09 manual has you adjusting the pull cable first, then take up the slack with the return cable.

Its your call on the throttle tube. IMO, graphite would be too dry, again, I reiterate, I would put just a little oil on the tube (just enough to coat it).