Suddenly a strange engine rattle noise

I dont have to split the case to change the oil pup chain. i took the clutch out and the top drive gear is on the back. is it normal for the chain to be so slack?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUDzhUiZftY

That's what I posted in post #56, along with a link stating that.

And I wouldn't think the chain should be that loose but there's no spec's listed for slack limits...

Your already that deep, a new chain is under $10.00.

IMHO, I'd just replace it for piece of mind. If it lets loose while at speed, you'll have a whole lot more problems with no oil pressure, no water pump and a piece of chain flopping around the cases while running..
 
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Thanks i did read that and check out the link i was relieved about the case but very surprised that i can take out the clutch basket without taking out the sump or chain guide i see no traces of impact on any teeth or scratches on any casings but a tiny amount of play an the clutch basket, so chain and guide plus might as well change the clutch baring at the same time. then see how it goes.
:thumbup:
thanks for your help
 
have now changed water pump chain and guides, clutch plates and baring, tried thick and thin oil, taken off sump checked for shrapnel and found nothing new.
the only thing i still notice is that when i drain the oil fully and refill the noise is gone for a short time then it comes back. so no change:confused:
 
have now changed water pump chain and guides, clutch plates and baring, tried thick and thin oil, taken off sump checked for shrapnel and found nothing new.
the only thing i still notice is that when i drain the oil fully and refill the noise is gone for a short time then it comes back. so no change:confused:

I still think the problem is with either the cam tensioner loosing is charge or the timing is off. Pop the valve cover and the side cover (where the crank trigger is) and double check all timing mark to make sure they line up. The crank "T" mark should be line up with the mark on the case (might have to clean up the old gasket) and on the cams the line should be flush with the edge of the head.

The chain should be tight. Turn the engine by hand with a wrench (remove spark plugs) and try to feel if something is rubbing.

Note: I listen to the video again... the noise get louder on deceleration or when you're not loading the engine. So pretty much on decel you pick up the slack of the timing chain...

If you just pop the timing chain side cover, check if the chain is tight.
 
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The timing chain is really tight no sign of slack i cant get the timing any more accurate than it is, it lines up 99.99%. there are no marks on the piston tops or valve edges the tensioner is new. I am currently stumped. the noise is only when i close throttle or decelerate. i cant find any signs of damage to anything except the clutch plate that i changed. i will pull off the covers again and re check the timing this will be the forth time. i find it strange that the sound is gone after a full oil drain and re fill for a short time.
 
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My FZ6 has been making clicks,rattles and knocks since I bought it 17k miles ago. Stills runs like a clock.

Can you post a video or audio clip of the sound your bike is making, may help track down the noise instead of people just throwing out guesses. May even be a exhaust leak.
 
okay.. so I got back my back months later after I posted this thread and meanwhile I got my self an Yamaha FZR1000 -91. Got to say I love that bike! :rockon:

The mechanics had i replace the engine so got an almost new engine for just the insurance fee of $100USD. I'm sorry but not sure what the exact problem was, but believe it had to do with bad/injured gasket and more.. not sure what even caused that as I can't say that i've been running on high RPMs etc..

So the bike is in the garage and waiting for the snow and ice to leave this year and we will be back on track! :thumbup:
 
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