Stripped the block.. help!

driver145

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I bought a crappy torque wrench to put on my sliders. I thought it was torqued to 40lbs (left frame bolt). Rode about fifty miles and the slider was really loose. So I got the torque wrench and started out low... at 30lbs of torque. THE ENGINE WAS STILL HOT... I AM RETARTED. Now the place where the bolt goes, some part of the engine is stripped out. I do not know if I stripped it out when I first put it on or when the engine was hot... but the hot engine defintely made it worse. Any ideas about what I can do?

P.S. My bike only has about 150 miles on it.
 

JONAC

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I bought a crappy torque wrench to put on my sliders. I thought it was torqued to 40lbs (left frame bolt). Rode about fifty miles and the slider was really loose. So I got the torque wrench and started out low... at 30lbs of torque. THE ENGINE WAS STILL HOT... I AM RETARTED. Now the place where the bolt goes, some part of the engine is stripped out. I do not know if I stripped it out when I first put it on or when the engine was hot... but the hot engine defintely made it worse. Any ideas about what I can do?

P.S. My bike only has about 150 miles on it.

I'd put the old bolt back in try and convince your dealer it was like that when you bought it ;)

Sounds expensive .... Hope you get it sorted mate
 

driver145

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I talked to the service shop and they said they can drill it out and put a new thread in for like 70-150 dollars plus 35 dollars for pick up. I will just consider it a dumb*ss tax and be glad it wasn't worse.
 

Hellgate

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I bought a crappy torque wrench to put on my sliders. I thought it was torqued to 40lbs (left frame bolt). Rode about fifty miles and the slider was really loose. So I got the torque wrench and started out low... at 30lbs of torque. THE ENGINE WAS STILL HOT... I AM RETARTED. Now the place where the bolt goes, some part of the engine is stripped out. I do not know if I stripped it out when I first put it on or when the engine was hot... but the hot engine defintely made it worse. Any ideas about what I can do?

P.S. My bike only has about 150 miles on it.

Yes, try the dealer routine, "Gee I have no idea what happen???" If that doesn't work a "Timecert" may work, another option is a "Helicoil". Timecert is the better of the two.
 

DefyInertia

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Are you guys kidding about trying to rip off the dealer?

all these posts about misusing the torque wrenches scares the crap out of me,,i'll never use it

Just take 5 minutes to educate yourself before using it. I highly recommend you get one and get used to using it if you'll be doing your own wrenching. Too tight is not good and too loose, well. Don't forget your locktite.
 

Fred

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I think it was more directed at the people who suggested that you try to rip off the dealership.

Good on you for taking responsibility for your mistake and paying to have it fixed.

Those who think it's a good idea to try and blame the dealership for their mistakes should be ashamed of themselves.
 

Admin

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**** happens but it can be fixed.. Google helicoil....

Take it to the shop...and tell them the truth!!! they are not dumb... they will take care of it. Remember every school costs money and honesty is the best policy.....

:Sport:
 
R

Raid The Revenge

Are you sure the wrench wasn't measured in Inch-Pounds? Some cheap torque wrenches measure in inches of force, rather then foot.
 

tolgatt

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i thought jonac was kidding,,,so i agreed with him,,he probably was kidding,,im sure he will say that when he logs in..now i feel bad ,,,even though i was always the screwed one with the dealership relations , i would never try to go and lie them about a damage i gave to the bike..

about the torque wrench , i have no experience with them,,,never needed them,,i did took the zzr250 engine apart ,pistons , transmission ,everything and put it back without using a torque wrench in the past (1996) ...nothing happened...well ..i was lucky i guess....and young :) now i know the importance of it,,,,im taking the advice and i will go buy one and learn how to use it....still a little bit nervous though :D
 

Zebratounge

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480 inch pounds should have been correct. 1 foot pound =12 inch pounds.
Bolt may have been some China crap.
My nephew pulled the threads on His GSXR600 installing sliders. He used a Helicoil and some Loctite to fix it.
 

JONAC

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Yes my comment was a throw away one lol ;) British humour takes some getting used to I suppose ..... :D

I've always said that honesty is the key !!

One point to add though ...

I have done quite a lot of mods on my bike and am shocked at the amount of cheap nuts/bolts/screws etc used for its construction. Only yesterday I changed the clutch lever assembly and rounded off the clutch switch screw with little effort. GET A GRIP YAMAHA and start using decent manafactured products instead of the cheapest bidder from china !!

P.S ... I've slapped my hand for my out of character comment earlier ;)
 

Nelly

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dude, for aluminum... helicoil is your best friend and takes minutes to learn to use

Khyren
I have used helicoils before with excellent results. I have also used an over sized bolt on my ER-5 when I was a courier. Now I am not suggesting that this is an option for the FZ6, it did mean I wasn't stuck in Bradford though.
 

Hellgate

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Time Cert vs. Helicoil

Time Cert is the way to go vs. the Helicoil. A helicoil is just that a coil, kinda like a Slinky if you will. A Time Cert is solid in that it is cylinder that is threaded on the inside and the outside, it is solid, not a slinky. Both repairs require drilling the hole out larger and retapping the hole and then installing the coil, so you might as well use the better of the two. That bolt has a lot of stress and vibration that passes through it and the Time Cert will hold up to those stresses better.

I'm not an engineer but I slept at a Holiday Inn Express... :D
 

reiobard

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Time Cert is the way to go vs. the Helicoil. A helicoil is just that a coil, kinda like a Slinky if you will. A Time Cert is solid in that it is cylinder that is threaded on the inside and the outside, it is solid, not a slinky. Both repairs require drilling the hole out larger and retapping the hole and then installing the coil, so you might as well use the better of the two. That bolt has a lot of stress and vibration that passes through it and the Time Cert will hold up to those stresses better.

I'm not an engineer but I slept at a Holiday Inn Express... :D

now as much as i agree that the solid one might be better i would venture a guess that the coil is fine, i used on one a stripped spark plug on my old car and i never had an issue with the coil and i would imagine that a spark plug is under more strain that an engine mount.
 

Hellgate

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I would probably want to safety wire my drain plug after a retapping just to make myself feel better on those long trips and backroad blasts.

Not a bad idea. Does the club you track with require your bike to be safety wired? It's really not a bad idea and is easy to do and it looks kinda cool too.
 

JONAC

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then the bike no longer is a bike with the most bang for the buck....can't have it both ways.....take every fastener out of your bike, go buy higher quality ones....let us know how much coin you eventually shell out and we'll call yamaha and see if they think the bike will still sell at the new inflated price.

Magseal ... Have you joined this forum with the sole intention of arguing with any valid oppinion ? Or is it just aimed at me because I asked the moderator to close down your spam infested video link, for which I accept my inferior PC virus protection was to blame !!? :confused:

I'm sure there is a forum aimed at argumentative individuals out there ... or have you been banned from that ?? :)
 
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