stripped battery cover bolt

[thisisdylan]

the left bolt on my battery cover just spins in place. it's about a 1/4 inch unscrewed and i can't tighten or loosen it. i think the threads may have come loose from whatever is holding it in place, and it is spinning with the bolt.

i've tried applying leverage to the bolt from below while unscrewing, and holding the threads still with pliers as i unscrew, but i can't get this bolt to move at all.
my clutch cable install is going to be a bit more difficult if i can't get the airbox and battery out of the way.
any thoughts?

 

[Motogiro]

:welcome: to the forum!
If you have an impact wrench and can get constant upward pressure on the head you may get it loose otherwise take the head off and see if you can then figure out what is happening with it. It may be one of those thread inserts nuts and it's spun loose in its bore.

 

[thisisdylan]

thanks, happy to be a member. lots of good knowledge here.

and yeah it seems like the threaded bushing is spinning around with it. tried holding it still with pliers, but hasn't worked yet. i dont have an impact wrench, but i could probably rent one.
i've been considering cutting the head off, but it's in a very tight place. i really wouldn't mind zip tying it at all, but i need this thing out for the cable install.

 

[Motogiro]

thanks, happy to be a member. lots of good knowledge here.

and yeah it seems like the threaded bushing is spinning around with it. tried holding it still with pliers, but hasn't worked yet. i dont have an impact wrench, but i could probably rent one.
i've been considering cutting the head off, but it's in a very tight place. i really wouldn't mind zip tying it at all, but i need this thing out for the cable install.

If you can wait til next week ride down to San Diego and we'll get it squared away! Lol!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As Cliff pointed out, putting pressure UNDER the head of the bolt (a smaller open end wrench) with lots of pressure should force (with turning) it out..

If you put a vise grip on the head of the bolt, then drill it out starting with a small bit, then working up. Once the heads gone, the retainer battery "top" can come off. A dremel with a cutting head (covering up everything else so metal/dremel dust doesn't get everywhere will work too...

I believe (as I recall) it bolts into a solid piece of metal, not one of those slip on clips. And that bolt, (again as I re-call) is a "shouldered" bolt so it doesn't squish the plastic cover.

The threads are likely torn up any way, A M6 Helicoil kit can be had for about $28 to repair the threads...Very easy to use.
Amazon.com: Helicoil 5546-6 M6 x 1 Metric Coarse Thread Repair Kit: Automotive


**BTW, there is one, plastic zip tie retainer for the clutch cable on the inside of the left side of the frame. It is tight but you can CUT IT OFF (W/O issue). The clutch cable can now be pulled out without pulling the air filter box, battery, etc. Saves 3/4 of the work and the cable isn't going anywhere. Mines been cut off for roughly 5 years

 

[thisisdylan]

If you can wait til next week ride down to San Diego and we'll get it squared away! Lol!

old cable is already out, so i'm not going anywhere till the new one's in. unless i feel like riding with it outside the frame..

As Cliff pointed out, putting pressure UNDER the head of the bolt (a smaller open end wrench) with lots of pressure should force (with turning) it out..

yeah i gave that a shot. i put plenty of force under the bolt, and it didn't budge, so that's why i think the threads are just spinning with the bolt.

If you put a vise grip on the head of the bolt, then drill it out starting with a small bit, then working up. Once the heads gone, the retainer battery "top" can come off. A dremel with a cutting head (covering up everything else so metal/dremel dust doesn't get everywhere will work too...

I believe (as I recall) it bolts into a solid piece of metal, not one of those slip on clips. And that bolt, (again as I re-call) is a "shouldered" bolt so it doesn't squish the plastic cover.

The threads are likely torn up any way, A M6 Helicoil kit can be had for about $28 to repair the threads...Very easy to use.
Amazon.com: Helicoil 5546-6 M6 x 1 Metric Coarse Thread Repair Kit: Automotive


**BTW, there is one, plastic zip tie retainer for the clutch cable on the inside of the left side of the frame. It is tight but you can CUT IT OFF (W/O issue). The clutch cable can now be pulled out without pulling the air filter box, battery, etc. Saves 3/4 of the work and the cable isn't going anywhere. Mines been cut off for roughly 5 years

i think i'll rent a dremel or find some piano wire saw to get the head off and not bother with rethreading. keeping it zip tied will be fine for now. and i already got rid of that retainer for the cable, it seemed pointless.

 

[thisisdylan]

got the new clutch cable today. i was going to install it as best as i could, then ride to my buddy's to cut off the bolt and install it properly.

i ripped a fuel pump wire when moving the tank around. anyone know a part number for this green plug coming off the fuel pump? i can't find it on partzilla on the electrical or fuel pump diagrams. there are already bullet connectors for the two wires attaching to the wire harness, so i really just need a plug with some wires.

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2006 FZ-6 - FZS6V ELECTRICAL 2 Diagram

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Those wires are NOT stock, someones changed them out already.. Their way heavier than stock..

Here's a site with connectors but I don't think you'll find it there; Honda - Kawasaki Motorcycle Turn Signal Connectors

If you can't save that end, (pulling those wires out is NOT un-common), check the F/S section or post a WTB. Bikes are being parted out all the time..

BTW, that plug is part of the wiring harness, not available separately from Yamaha....


What it should look like;

 

[thisisdylan]

Those wires are NOT stock, someones changed them out already.. Their way heavier than stock..

Here's a site with connectors but I don't think you'll find it there; Honda - Kawasaki Motorcycle Turn Signal Connectors

If you can't save that end, (pulling those wires out is NOT un-common), check the F/S section or post a WTB. Bikes are being parted out all the time..

BTW, that plug is part of the wiring harness, not available separately from Yamaha....


What it should look like;

yeah someone before made the same mistake. the ground and power cables are spliced into the harness with bullet connectors. i was actually able to ride it a bit today though. the fuel pump didn't die once and clutch is now super smooth. just need to get the battery and airbox out of the way to tuck it into the frame properly.

thanks for the link, i'll keep it for the future. since yamaha doesn't sell this part individually i think i will try to get this thing soldered for now and find someone with an old wiring harness. hopefully they will let me just cut off this plug.