Morimoto H1 Mini Stage III Projector Retrofit

outasight20

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I recently did this mod and wrote it up for one of my classes. the tutorial follows.

Bi-Xenon Projector Retrofit on a 2005 Yamaha FZ



The purpose of this tutorial is to guide you through the replacement of the stock 2005 Yamaha FZ6 headlights with a Morimoto Mini H1 Bi-Xenon Projection system. The information presented is specific to this installation; however, many of the steps are similar for other Japanese sport bikes.

Time to complete: 4-8 hours.




Required Materials

Purchased Kit:
Morimoto Bi-Xenon Mini Stage III Kit (H1)

Tools:
Metric Allen Wrench (4mm)
Metric Socket Wrenches (8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm)
Flathead screwdriver
Philips Screwdrivers (#1, #2)
Wire Cutters
Needle nosed pliers

Equipment and Supplies:
Soldering iron and solder
Dremel tool with cone sanding attachment
Paper Towels
All-purpose cleaner
Electrical Tape
Loctite
Double Sided tape
Zip Ties
Oven and oven mitts


A. Removing Front Fairing

1) Using a four mm Allen wrench, remove the right and left inner fairing panels (three bolts each).
2) Turn handlebars full lock to the left, exposing the two 14mm bolts holding the fairing to the frame by the speedometer bracket. Remove these bolts.
3) Disconnect the wiring harness on the left hand side of the fairing (two plugs).
4) Lift and pull front fairing away from the rest of the motorcycle.

B. Extracting Headlight Unit from Fairing

1) Take off windshield by removing the five #2 Philips head screws located below the mirror boots (four) and underneath the front of the headlights (one).
2) Remove the four 10 mm nuts holding the two mirrors to the fairing. Pull off mirrors.
3) Remove two #1 Philips head screws located near mirror mounting holes.
4) Remove two #2 Philips head screws holding speedometer to top of upper fairing.
5) Remove four #2 Philips head screws holding speedometer bracket to fairing. Pull off speedometer bracket and carefully disconnect wiring behind speedometer (two plugs).
6) Unplug stock headlights and remove rubber boots behind stock bulbs on back of headlight unit.
7) Undo clips and remove both stock bulbs.
8) Remove five #2 Philips head screws holding headlight unit to upper fairing.
9) Carefully pull headlight unit out of upper fairin

C. Removing Lens Covers

1) Clean outside of headlight unit with paper towel and spray cleaner.
2) Heat oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit.
3) Place cleaned headlight unit into oven for 20 minutes.
4) Carefully remove headlight unit using oven mitts.
5) Working quickly but carefully, work a flat head screwdriver around each lens cover, slowly prying cover off while unclipping tabs as you go around.
6) Repeat for other lens cover.
7) Place removed lenses aside, glue-side up.


D. Mounting Projectors

1) Locate the two projector units, along with the two “mini Gatling gun” shrouds.
2) Using the four supplied Philips head screws, mount the shroud to each projector unit.

3) Remove metal bulb holder from back of projector units by removing the three small Philips head screws on the threaded end of the unit.
4) Identify the correct metal adapter plate (H4 or H7) for each projector and test fit it. They may require a little bit of sanding with a Dremel tool to fit correctly.
5) Place the large silicone washer onto the end of the projector, then install it through the front of the reflector.
6) Place the small silicone washer onto the threads of the projector behind the reflector, followed by the adapter plate.
7) Apply Loctite to metal retaining nut, and carefully begin threading it onto the back of the projector.
8) As the retaining nut begins to tighten (needle nose pliers fit it perfectly and act as a makeshift wrench), start putting pressure onto the front lens of the projector, pressing it into the reflector housing and compressing the silicone washers as you continue tightening the retaining nut.


9) Mounting of the projectors is now complete. Clean the lens and reflector and rid the housing of dust and debris.



E. Re-installation of Lens Covers


1) Place completed reflector unit and two lens covers back into the 200 degree oven for about 15 minutes.
2) Working quickly, press the lens covers back into place, making sure all clips are re-attached; allow to cool for several minutes while keeping pressure on the lenses
3) Re-install metal bulb holder to back of projector units using the three small Philips head screws.
4) Carefully remove protective case and foam from HID bulbs and install bulbs into each projector (taking care to not touch the glass with your fingers).
5) Using supplied spring clip, secure each bulb into its projector.

F. Re-assembly of Front Fairing

1) Mount headlight unit back into front fairing with five screws.
2) Re-install rubber boots on back of HID bulb.
3) Re-install speedometer mount (connecting wiring harness), mirrors, and windshield.
4) Mount the ballasts with double sided tape on the inside of the fairings, or use desired method of attachment.
5) Connect Bulbs to ballasts.


G. Connecting Wire Harness to Battery

1) Lift up gas tank to expose battery by removing the two screws at the front of the tank and pivoting it upwards (A piece of string can be used to hold it from falling down).
2) Connect positive terminal from wiring harness to positive side of battery.
3) Connect negative terminal from wiring harness to negative side of battery.
4) Pass remaining wires through hole in frame below handlebars to route the wires correctly.
5) Lower tank and secure with two screws.

H. Mounting Fairing and Connecting Wiring

1) Reinstall the fairing on the front of the frame and secure with two 14mm bolts. Reconnect stock wiring harness to fairing plugs (two plugs).
2) Connect Morimoto wiring harness to two ballasts and the left hand side light socket (H7 side). This will power your bulbs.
3) Hook up the right hand side light socket (H4) to the two high beam control wires coming from the projectors in parallel. When you activate the high beams, the power will energize the coil and flip up the electromechanical shields.
4) Organize excess wiring and bunch up with zip ties neatly.
5) Test projectors by turning motorcycle on. They should both light up on low beams. Check to make sure high beams work as well. If the high beams do not work, it is possible the polarity of the high beam control wires is backwards.
6) If everything is working correctly, it is time to aim your projectors. If not, check to make sure there is power getting to the Morimoto harness’ relay and that all of your fairing plugs are connected correctly.
7) To aim the projectors, place the motorcycle on a flat surface and move as close to a perpendicular wall as possible. Mark the cutoff line on the low beam with a piece of tape. Move the motorcycle back 25’ and then adjust the height adjustment nut (10mm) until the height of both low-beams is 2.1” below the original tape line. You are done aiming.
8) Reinstall inner fairing panels and mirror boots. Check to make sure no wires are loose, dangling, or kinked.
 

DavesFZ

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I can't believe nobody commented on this yet. Good work.

did you happen to take pictures throughout this process? The write up is excellent, but it feels like it is incomplete without a few pics roused in there.
 

outasight20

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I did take some pictures, however they really wouldn't be that helpful IMO. When you have all of the parts in front of you, the steps are pretty straight forward and easy to follow. Thanks though!
 

ElectroNick

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Expert guide, just yesterday finished the same convertion on my S2 '08. I have posted a similar guide ading a couple of things and missing some other :D ... allhough... i have 2 questions
1) S1 and S2 have opposite OEM bulbs? Cause my H4 is on the left hand and H7 on the right one by riding position.
2) i might have missed the step (H,3) cause i isolated my H7- black with green stripes wire so now i dont have low beam.

From what i can imagine i must not hook up that black/green H7 low beam wire with the possitive wires on each of the solenoids of the projectors. That would lead to activate high beam by just turning on the bike:eek:.

So where should i hook the low beam wire in order to have low beam? hook it up with one of the 3 wires on H4 plug maybe?

Ty in advance for your time
 

Lucif-R

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1) S1 and S2 have opposite OEM bulbs? Cause my H4 is on the left hand and H7 on the right one by riding position.

As far as I see from his details he is from Worcester, which is in the UK, and you are not. They drive on the other side, so the light setup is mirrored ( kind of ) as well. :)

Goooood nice detailed post, and pictures are always good :) since it is straight forward to you, and not for others. ( lack of reply may come because there are several other posts with the same topic, same retrofit lights )
 

tazakos

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hi there,

i am a little confused about the choices in buing the morimotos.
There are so many options.

The Retrofit Source Inc

wire harness and bulbs. Which are the choices for a fz6 s2?

any ideas?

thanks
 
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Motogiro

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tazakos

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i read this my friend...he bought H1 ok, but when attempting to purchase a morimoto stage three it asks you to state the wire harness you want...
check the choices on the scroll menu bellow:


upload pictures
 

Motogiro

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i read this my friend...he bought H1 ok, but when attempting to purchase a morimoto stage three it asks you to state the wire harness you want...
check the choices on the scroll menu bellow:


upload pictures


The one you have chosen H4/9003 should be the one you want.

If the FZ6 that comes with a fairing does not have the low beam cut off and the switching is not standard for the H4 set up.

Are you doing a single lamp conversion?
 
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FinalImpact

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Do you have the pictures showing how to remove all and headlight housing unit? Thanks!

What do you need to know?

Pop the inner fairings
Unplug the two harnesses on the left.
Turn bars left, remove 12mm nut at the bottom of the fairing stay (just above lower triple).
Hold Fairing assembly and remove the top 12mm nut, and slide the bolts out.

Set it down and begin pulling the mole out...
picture.php


PS - you need to bake it for 3 ~ 4" at 200°F to separate the lens from the body. Then its best to use NEW butyl rope to reseal it.
 

Motogiro

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:needpics:

also, is 3" chineese bi-xenon projectors (like boneman's fazer) not as same results as morimoto?

detail:Boneman's FZ6 Site - Bi-Xenon HID Projectors

Don't know if they are the same quality components but they look similar. I liked what Boneman did by blacking out the reflectors while he had the lens off and there is no need for the reflector with projectors anyway. If you paint your reflectors use a scuff pad to dull the chrome finish so that you get better adhesion for the paint. :)
 

Motogiro

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no i want dual bi-xenon end result.

thats why i start the whole thing in the 1st place ;)

Please note, and I don't know if this will make a difference with the harness you plan on buying but, the wire that powers the low beam filament does not stop supplying voltage when the high beam is turned on. This is what the H4 harness will expect on a standard H4 plug. The OEM circuit does not switch the low beam off because the H4 in the FZ6 faired version does not use the low beam filament in the H4. It only operates the high beam filament in the H4 lamp unless modified by bd43 or Motogiro headlight mods.

If I were wiring the OEM faired FZ6 I would not use a harness at all.

Power to the ballasts would be to the positive + terminal of the battery.

The black with green tracer wire on your headlamp plug will be used for the turn on signal.

Black with the yellow wire would be your high beam signal that will flip the high beam shutters.

All grounds can go to the black headlamp wire.

Remember the headlamp signals don't come on till the engine has been started.
 
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tazakos

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thanks for the clarifications my friend. It seems i need to read more before i choose...many options. will decide soon and post what and how. thanks again.:thumbup:
 

PhotoAl

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I have thought about doing this mod for years. What is everyone's opinion about visibility of the bike. I'm talking about others seeing the bike. It is easier to seethe bike, harder or about the same? Thinking daytime more than at night.

Reason I'm asking is some of the new cars with LED headlights son't have as big of a light source - it is bright but in the daytime I'm thinking a small bright light may not be as good.
 

Motogiro

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I have thought about doing this mod for years. What is everyone's opinion about visibility of the bike. I'm talking about others seeing the bike. It is easier to seethe bike, harder or about the same? Thinking daytime more than at night.

Reason I'm asking is some of the new cars with LED headlights son't have as big of a light source - it is bright but in the daytime I'm thinking a small bright light may not be as good.

Any projector light with the high beam cutoff will do wonders for forward visibility and visibility to traffic. They should be the best improvement for headlamps.

I'll be going over to the new Cree LED type headlight soon because I believe they will work great on my SV1000s headlamps and they will be more economically feasible for my budget.
 

Motogiro

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[MENTION=26453]tazakos[/MENTION]

Here is a circuit to control your HID set up. Depending on whether you have Halos added or maybe have only low beams, you will or will not use those hookups.

This will cover the standard OEM wiring on the fairing version of the FZ6. If you are hooking up to a factory naked version of the FZ6 this circuit will be modified slightly.

Using this for your control does 2 things. One is it gives you a better understanding of your setup with easier servicing and trouble shooting and two you can save a few bucks. :)
 
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