Spark plug change - One of them looks off

[teej21012]

I followed the sticky on spark plug changes in the How-To section and when I pulled off the #1 plug, it had some white stuffs around the socket part. All the rest looked the same (#2 was a bit darker on the threads).

All of them ready for burial

#4

#3

#2 (the black sheep)

and #1 (White Lightning is what I call him)

Am I good to go or does the black = rich, brown = good, white = lean thing apply here which means I also need to do a TB sync?

 

[FinalImpact]

Here is a thread about this topic that might be useful. Based upon the wear alone, I hope you intend to replace those plugs.

Don't exceed the suggested gap and follow this: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...tion-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html
Round #2, try THIS LINK! http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...tion-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html

PS - looks like some of the links to images have been broken recently read through it, it should make sense w/out them.

As for the White plug body, thats from trapped moisture. Make sure the drain is open on the left side of the head and that all of boot seals fit over the caps and head snugly to keep water out. Please read the thread.

Also, line them up like this; easier to compare:

Thanks [MENTION=25322]I JET[/MENTION] for the heads up on busted link!

IDK! The links are the same and busted! its a sticky in the Tech Section..... http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical
FAIL: links are being very strange tonight! http://www.600riders.com/forum/forum42/ << Notice the difference "fz6-technical" vs "forum42"

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As noted above, some water got in there and the aluminum head / plug corroded a little bit, (nothing major).

Most of that "white" on the #1 plug, WHERE the corrosion is on the head/plug, is on the outside of the ground strap, NOT inside, where its important.

The inside burn color looks a little dark, like the rest of the plugs. Is the air filter clean/not over oiled(causing richness)? That would cause the slight darkness to the plugs. The first picture, blown up, looks like either carbon or oil build up on the plug, definitly needing replacment. I don't know how many miles on those plugs. They should have a slight tan color to them if the engine is running with no issues.

You can see the other plugs posted above having different issues with the engine.

**I strongly suspect when you removed the #1 plug, that ground strap just bumped the edge of the spark plug hole (aluminum with some corrosion) and it just got transferred to the strap.. that white is nothing to worry about. ** (Same as if you put your finger in the hole, touched the head, then looked at your finger, it'd have some white corrosion on it).

A loose spark plug cap, as noted above, would cause some misfiring, adding to the carbon/crap build up on that one plug. I'd check that if you haven't already.

Next time you pull the plug caps, blow some air down the holes to clean any crap out. A little bit of di-lectric grease on the plug caps, where it meets the valve cover, makes snapping on easier and helps keep water out as as well. Just wipe off any excess once assembled so crap doesn't stick to it..

 

[teej21012]

I did change those for some fancy looking Iridium ones. Took about 2 hours and a scratched up arm/hand. Bike definitely runs a bit smoother now. Idle speed when warmed up was around 1k.

I will have to check the air filter to see if its oiled up. I replaced the OEM one with a K&N one about 2 years ago and haven't checked it out since.

This year, I plan on doing a whole once over of everything, all by me onesie. A bit intimidating but I think with your guy's help, I can do this! :rockon:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I did change those for some fancy looking Iridium ones. Took about 2 hours and a scratched up arm/hand. Bike definitely runs a bit smoother now. Idle speed when warmed up was around 1k.

I will have to check the air filter to see if its oiled up. I replaced the OEM one with a K&N one about 2 years ago and haven't checked it out since.

This year, I plan on doing a whole once over of everything, all by me onesie. A bit intimidating but I think with your guy's help, I can do this! :rockon:

Take your time and yes, there isn't much you can't do.

If that air filter is over oiled, it'll cause the engine to run rich (limiting air in) causing the non-tan plugs.

I personally (and I believe FI) both prefer the stock air filter.

I keep my idle as well at 1,000, but it is supposed to be at 1,300 RPM's or so. It helps with charging.

How many miles were on those old plugs? Just curious?

 

[teej21012]

If they are the stock ones (and I believe they are, I got the bike at 4k miles and it had 2 previous owners), it is sitting at 12,500 miles right now.

When it first started it was at 1500 RPM and as the bike warmed up, it went down to about 1k.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You should likely bump it up a little (I like mine at 1,000) but 1,300 is whats recommended.

My plugs were changed out to iridiums about the same mileage as yours but were considerably cleaner and tan (stock air filter).

I would definitly service or replace the air filter. :thumbup:

 

[teej21012]

Servicing the air filter is on my list. Using this as a guideline to figure out what all I need to do as well as anything extra I see on the forum that looks like fun.

 

[FinalImpact]

Quick question, what is your riding style and use or rpm range? That may also contribute to the darkness.

 

[teej21012]

I usually keep it around the powerband (6-8k). I like being able to get away from things at a moment's notice.