Someone talk this guy into making a fuel cut eliminator for us :)

[chomorro]

I just signed up for the FZ1 forums and i was browsing around. They have an awesome product called an Ivans Fuel Cut Eliminator. I would definitely pay the $200 bucks for it right now LOL.

Here is the info Ivan's Performance Products

Can someone with a professional voice and authority ask him to make this product for us :thumbup:

ORRRRRR an electrical genius figure out how to retro fit it to our bikes :rockon:

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

Maybe if we can show enough support on the forum they would consider it? Ive been interested in this since I first heard about it. I would easily pay $200 for it. The only thing I miss about carbs is how smooth the fuel delivery is. The FZ is so jerky compared to my old carbed bikes, and it would be nice to smooth it out.

 

[chomorro]

Oh and if your wondering why i need someone to ask them instead of myself. They do not have an email address, only a phone number. So if they asked me anything technical or even the most basics of motorcycle questions. I would probably fail the test ahhahaha.

 

[skooter65]

They are a very down-to-earth company to deal with. I have had a few questions with my "new" 2001 FZ1 project and they have been more than willing to chat; even with my lack of knowledge of the bike.

Give him a call..we are all waiting :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

As stated to get the most out of this type of thing, one needs to do the ignition advance too but for the $ this might not be a bad option if it takes away 60% of the transition suckiness. . .

There's another thread with a link for remapping the stock ECM to do the same thing but it all leads to $$$$$ and this place. . . | Performance ECU Reflashing Remapping & Tuning Company – ECUnleashed Tuning Technology it's near double the cost but they do seem to have the FZ fuel/ignition map already.

 

[Gothenburg]

This has been brought up before. See if any of these are of interest to you. There is some very good advice in these:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/track-tech-riding-techniques/31819-off-throttle-responce-07-fz6.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/28475-ivans-performance-fuel-cut-eliminator-no-fz6-version.html#post293205

And this a product that might help:

G2 Tamer Throttle Tube

I have never had this problem, so I have no insight on the subject. I'd tighten your throttle cable a bit, and try to learn to stay on the throttle just a bit instead of completely backing off it in turns. That helps a LOT. Also, get back on the gas early to preload your suspension through the turn to prepare it for more power out of the turn.

Read that first thread especially if you haven't already. :thumbup:

Best of luck

 

[chomorro]

Its not the twisty turns where its a pain for me. Its my daily stop and go commute to work lol. I have to constantly let off the throttle completely and then get on it while riding in traffic.

 

[chomorro]

This has been brought up before. See if any of these are of interest to you. There is some very good advice in these:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/track-tech-riding-techniques/31819-off-throttle-responce-07-fz6.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/28475-ivans-performance-fuel-cut-eliminator-no-fz6-version.html#post293205

And this a product that might help:

G2 Tamer Throttle Tube

I have never had this problem, so I have no insight on the subject. I'd tighten your throttle cable a bit, and try to learn to stay on the throttle just a bit instead of completely backing off it in turns. That helps a LOT. Also, get back on the gas early to preload your suspension through the turn to prepare it for more power out of the turn.

Read that first thread especially if you haven't already. :thumbup:

Best of luck

Hmmm i wonder if that throttle tube works



After reading this http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/g2-throttle-tamer/

And understanding how it works im seriously considering picking one up. Anyone else here use one?

 

[Hellgate]

If you have a power commander try adding about 7 to 10 points of trim at the zero% to 10% throttle positions, it can help with fuel cut. You only need to add into the rpm range where you are typically apexing, maybe 6,000+, depending on how you ride.

 

[chomorro]

If you have a power commander try adding about 7 to 10 points of trim at the zero% to 10% throttle positions, it can help with fuel cut. You only need to add into the rpm range where you are typically apexing, maybe 6,000+, depending on how you ride.

No power commander for me yet. One day :rockon:

 

[camilolo]

Has anyone used this?

NITRO X FUEL COMMANDER

NITRO X FUEL COMMANDER GET POWER FOR: FZ6, FAZER 600 | eBay


don't know what's the differnece between this and power commander. All what I know is this is much cheaper.

 

[Hellgate]

Or get your ECU reflashed. I had my FZ1 done, amazing. Or get a PIC mircontroller and program it yourself. PIC microcontroller - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[wrlomas]

I would buy one of these for sure, I have been carburated my whole life. I miss the response of big bore flat slides. I have learned how to deal with the fuel injection but it gets a little jerky in the twistys at times.

 

[DefyInertia]

Hmmm i wonder if that throttle tube works



After reading this G2 Throttle Tamer - webBikeWorld

And understanding how it works im seriously considering picking one up. Anyone else here use one?

$80???

Think you could modify the stock cam to have similar shape?

 

[mikw73]

I'd love a FCE for the FZ6. Fuel cut is much more noticeable at altitude, since the FI system doesn't compensate for thinner air. I haven't ridden an '07-on model, though. The O2 sensor might be used by the ECU to help with that. In the '06 and before at least, the switch from zero gas (not throttle off, but the fuel cut-dictated zero gas at any throttle setting below what the ECU knows will generate power) to throttle on, even in a moderate turn really affects the way I can take turns in mountains. I live at ~1000 feet, but frequently ride at 3K-6K feet. I have to be very cautious rolling on throttle in any reasonably sharp turn at speed at 4000 feet or more. And above 7K rpm it is much more pronounced. Usually I just slow down more than I want before the turn, roll on early or even before the turn to get the fuel cut response out of the way and take slack out of the chain, then put power to the wheel as I approach apex. It's a safe, but not exciting way to ride. It is impossible to roll on throttle perfectly smoothly because of the fuel cut, and with the exaggerated hop you get at altitude and high rpm in a sharp lean, I don't feel OK about the chassis jumping and changing the line in a turn. The throttle tamer will make the throttle less twitchy at low throttle settings--good for making a twitchy clutch easier to work with, but it will not change at all the dramatic change in fuel delivery that happens at roll-on because of the fuel cut. I've checked the chain tension, it's OK. Throttle cables have almost zero slack. Might even be zero. I got pretty good at that. So I've done all the non-electronic methods I know to ameliorate. Short of installing carburetors. Would appreciate suggestions, though. I've got a PC-III, but I'm having trouble getting it working right. I thought it would eliminate throttle cut, and it seems to help, but mine seems to run way too rich at high rpm. Bike stalls and smells like gas, won't start for 20 minutes. But that's another story. If I had a FCE I'd be happy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hmmm i wonder if that throttle tube works



After reading this G2 Throttle Tamer - webBikeWorld

And understanding how it works im seriously considering picking one up. Anyone else here use one?

Numerous posts on an FJR forum indicate it does indeed work and guys like them, especially the Gen II bikes.

 

[mikw73]

Numerous posts on an FJR forum indicate it does indeed work and guys like them, especially the Gen II bikes.

I've ordered one, and I think it may help me be smoother shifting and clutching in first and second. I don't think it will do anything about the fuel cut, though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[chomorro]

I've ordered one, and I think it may help me be smoother shifting and clutching in first and second. I don't think it will do anything about the fuel cut, though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep us updated!!!

 

[FinalImpact]

Or get your ECU reflashed. I had my FZ1 done, amazing. Or get a PIC mircontroller and program it yourself. PIC microcontroller - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

You're gonna have to be pretty sharp on this if you build from scratch. Need the comms protocol, check sum, hex registers, hex values of those registers, then knowing the mapping of protected areas that should never be changed and then the things you need to change. . . list goes on and on. . .

Not to mention building the whole circuit to talk to the ECM. It's not impossible but it'd take some time and resources.

I run this on the auto put its for polling only and not flashing. AutoTap at OBD-II - On-Board Diagnostic System


Here is some light reading to help you sleep. . . It'll give us a clue as to what we may encounter. . .


{paste} from OBDII Information Page

Interested in rolling your own diagnostics software?
Multiplex-Engineering sells inexpensive ($70-80) OBDII interfaces for GM (VPW), Ford (PWM), and Chrysler (ISO). They will sell you the converter box, and provide you with the protocol document that allows you to talk to their box. The only thing you'll need to provide (heh heh) is the SAE paperwork that tells you what to request and how to decode it. They don't actually provide you with any OBDII docs, just how to talk to their box. As a side note, this is the same interface that the Palm based OBDII software that you see popping up everywhere (like at AESwave.com, labscopes scan tools and accessories for diagnostic test equipment! ) is using. However, each M-E box has their own 'hardware address' that you must poll with the serial port message, and although I have not asked, I'd bet that they dedicate a hardware address to each Palm software vendor. For example, AESWave's software is looking for a M-E device at address 0x80. The M-E device I bought has address 0x55, so it doesn't reply to the AESwave software query (this was performed with software downloaded from their web site for free, a Palm IIIxe in its factory cradle, and some serial port sniffing software - no rocket science to figure this out). The M-E device sure is slick, though, and if I were wanting to write a diagnostics software package for my vehicle, I'd start with one of their interfaces. I met Paul Bowen (the owner of M-E) at SEMA this past year, he's a really nice guy, knows his OBDII!

NEW! Hey, check this out. These guys over at Scantool.net have an affordable OBDII reader! It's based on the Elm electronics chip (below), but looks like a rolled together and ready to go package. Looks nice. If you want to save a few bux to scan your computer, this looks like a much easier solution than trying to piece together parts. This looks to be the LEAST EXPENSIVE turnkey OBDII solution going these days. Check 'em out.

Want to build your own hardware interface and write your own software?
Well, here's a couple of links that are very interesting to anyone wanting to 'dig in deep' to OBDII. This is an OBDII interface chip, that's based on a Microchip PIC. It's pretty cheap (about $10), so with some support circuitry, you could climb in to this hardware for looks like about $25-$30. Then you need to write a scan tool (or use Hyperterminal). I've not obtained any of these chips. The PDF file is VERY interesting reading, though, and definitely worth a look if you're "in to that sort of thing".
Elm Electronics PIC based Interfaces
Elm GM VPW PIC .PDF Datasheet

Technically, WHY won't an AKM OBDI interface allow laptop to vehicle communications with an OBDII vehicle?
This is a pretty deep question, for those who don't have the stomach to get technical, you can probably just skip the rest of this page. However, here is the answer.

First, for an introduction to GM OBDII, read the Intel Whitepaper that describes the 10.4 kbps Variable Pulse Width (VPW). This shows how 1's, 0's, and the voltage level of the datastream are formed. Worthwhile reading, Adobe Acrobat .PDF format.
Intel J1850 Whitepaper

OBDI is *simple* compared to OBDII. An OBDI ALDL datastream operates at 8192 baud, with an RS232-like 8-none-1 encoding. All you need is a voltage to voltage converter (a la AKM interface cable) to translate the 5 volt ALDL bus wire to the RS232 compliant Transmit and Receive. That's it - voltage to voltage conversion. The rest is all software.

Now, for OBDII. GM OBDII has two modes - 1X - which is 10.4 kbps, and 4X - which is 41.6 kbps. OBDII Scan tools (AutoTap, Ease Diagnostics, M-E, etc) *only* operate at 10.4 kbps. That is GM's standard diagnostic bit data rate. Now, it sounds like being a kbps, that it might be RS232 compatible? Nope. GM uses Variable Pulse Width (see the Intel docs for more info). A logical low short pulse is a "zero", a logical low long pulse is a "one". A logical high short pulse is a "one", a logical high long pulse is a "zero". So, to send a byte of data, there is a voltage transition for every bit - high, low, high, low, high, low ad infinitum. The width of the pulse determines whether it's a 1 or a 0. Now, with RS232, you can have two 1's next to each other, and the voltage state of the two bits will not change between the two of them (I believe a 0 in RS232 is the range of +3 to +12 Volts, and a 1 in RS232 is -3 to -12 Volts) - so you can have (+V) (+V) (+V) (-V) (+V) (+V) being a valid sequence of 6 bits in RS232. Also, the OBDII data wire is transitioning between +12V and 0V (or thereabouts). So, due to the variable pulsewidth, you *must* have some sort of translator microprocessor between an OBDII data bus and an RS232 device.

The 41.6 kbps (4X) mode is used for reading from and writing to the flash memory. It's also known as programming / high speed mode. If a chip or cable can't do 4X mode, it can't be used to program a PCM. Period. My friends at Carputing designed their own cable to do this. It has to be capable of switching from 1X to 4X and back again. It took them a good deal of design time to hammer it out, but it works slick. To date, the guys at Carputing.com are the only ones who have a working, publicly available, <$1000 programming cable for OBDII, but it ONLY works with their software, and it ONLY works on LT1/LT4 and LS1 vehicles, and they are not giving away the keys to the castle. However, I know of another cable coming... Keep your eyes peeled this spring.

Now, for the exception to the rule. A member of the GMECM Mailing List wrote a quick and dirty DOS based utility to extract trouble codes from an OBDII vehicle - using the handshake lines of the RS232 port and 'bit banging'. Essentially, he samples the RS232 port to measure the time interval between pulses, and determines whether or not it's a 1 or a 0. And in sending messages to the OBDII bus, he does a similar timing procedure. However, he requires a rather quick computer to do the sampling (he uses a 500 MHz PIII - I could not get it to scan on a P1 133MHz machine). Although this is a novel approach, it's prone to errors and dropped bits, so I'd never use it for programming. But it supposedly works for getting trouble codes (I've never gotten it to work, even on my desktop Athlon 600).

Hopefully I've made it a little clearer why, technically, the AKM OBDI cable (voltage to voltage converter) can't be used to hook a laptop to a GM OBDII datastream - the variable pulse width aspect. That's the killer - a VPW OBDII datastream is completely, utterly, not RS232 compatible.

 

[Hellgate]

Or on your Power Commander add 10 points of trim at 0% and 2% TP from about 4,500 up to 9,000 rpm. This fools your fuel injectors into keep spraying even if you cut your throttle. Just disconnect your 02 sensor.

And again, a reflash is the best deal. Not only is fuel cut solved, but you don't need a Power Commander and you get a better timing table.