texcollect
Crotchety Old Fart
Mine should be here tomorrow. I'll let you know when it arrives.
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Sale on clear LED Tail Light $19.99!
- Thread starter Motogiro
- Start date
Mine should be here tomorrow. I'll let you know when it arrives.
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jerdman89
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I've seen it done and that is how I plan to wire mine up. I like the clean look of no additional blinkers better but I already have a nice set of LED blinkers and want the extra visibility. I should have it installed tomorrow.
My thoughts exactly. Make sure to let me know how it goes!
texcollect
Crotchety Old Fart
Box is 11 x 8.5 x 6 and weighs 1lb 2oz. Now can anyone tell me how to get the swap the tail lights out? I thought it was an easy job, just undo a couple of screws and off it pops, but methinks it's a little more involved than that
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I did a little search and from what I've read, it might be better to take the tail section off instead of fighting to get the tail lamp assembly off the bike. Then I think they used a hair dryer to heat the lens assembly and remove it where it attaches the the tail lamp body. The rest of the deal is self explanatory and then reverse to assemble. You might get yourself a little tube of silicone RTV to seal the lens around the edges to keep moisture out.
jerdman89
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Installing this thing is a royal pain in the @$$. I screwed the LED board to the silver ring then super glued the silver ring to the original reflector then hot glued it for good measure. I dremeled out a spot on the light socket to run the yellow signal wires threw. The tabs on the new lens are too long and I ended up snapping off one of them. The rest of them I chipped down with my pocket knife. Fighting the whole assemble in and out of the rear of the bike is your own battle you figure it out. Once I had the rear of the bike back on I ran the wiring soldered it in to my old quick disconnects from my Led blinkers and I was done. I would have taken lots of pictures but I broke my camera. The up side is it looked good when it was done and is nice and bright.
Jerdman89, thanks for the helpful hints. Sorry to hear about your camera, but you've got to borrow one and take some pics for us!
jerdman89
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I should be able to get some pictures and video up tomorrow using my dads camera.
SANGER_A2
Super Member
Shame I only just saw this. I have the same one in smoked. It's good, but the install is dreadful for newbies. Mine was hot-glued all over and it's lasted great for many miles and many months. Details here. I didn't trust the taps though. I made up plugs so I can unplug it whenever I need to and also I cut into my after-market indicators instead of the stock loom for convenience.
texcollect
Crotchety Old Fart
I consider a newbie and after an hour wrestling with mine last night I give up. For Sale 1 clear LED tail kit for an fz6. $19.99 and I'll pay shipping to the continental US.
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tjhess74
boo-yah!
This install isnt really that hard once you get a clear idea of what is needed to be done to accomplish it. this kit is not a simple 10 minute plug and play, but can realistically be finished in about 30 minutes if your mechanically inclined. PLEASE keep in mind, the previous owner did some tail modifications to my bike, so if you see something that doesnt match, use your best judgement.
for $20, this is a pretty good mod. i probably would be alittle peeved if i had paid the original $80. there are no instructions, so here is the way i did it. ymmv.
THE FOLLOWING IS TO REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION. if youve already done this, skip to the next section!
first, of course, remove the seat.
next, remove the small allen head bolt securing each side panel. once removed, pop off each side panel. there are two rubber grommet type fasteners, and depending when the last time they were removed was, they may take some pulling to get off.
now, go ahead and unplug the bulb from the taillight housing. you can leave the housing attached to the tail section, it will be removed later.
now remove the two philips head screws attaching the black moulding directly beneath the taillight and between the exhausts.
remove the four tail section mounting bolts. they are hex 12mm. there are two on top in front of the tail light...
and there is one on each side, normally hidden by the side panels. there is also a philips head screw on the bottom of each side that needs to be removed...fingers pointing to each...
now, pull out on the two sides of the tail section gently and lift up to give you some room for the next step. on the left side of the bike, on the backside of the tailsection, you will see a silver bracket that secures the taillight wire. it is secured with two philips head screws...go ahead and remove these.
you may finish lifting the tail section off of the bike now!
with the tailsection loose, you will need to seperate one side of the plastic facia panel from the actual tail section. this will allow the taillight assembly to be removed. there are two philips head screws on the under side of the tail section, remove them. now, on the left side of the tail section, gently use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the several small tabs securing the facia panel and lift one side of it away from the tail section (tabs are below the silver heat shielding, tail section is upside down in pic)
the facia panel should hang away from the tail section like so..
you may now remove the two philips head screws holding the taillight in place. carefully pull the taillight from its resting place (it may take some effort)
remove the taillight lense using a small flat blade screwdriver to carefully lift up on the mounting tabs.
TO INSTALL THE LED TAILLIGHT KIT (congrats if youve made it this far!)
the silver collar piece needs to be attached to the back of the led circuit board. the wires that are soldered in place are kindof in the way, but you can very carefully bend then out of the way. there are two holes in the circuit board that correspond with two tabs on the collar. the tabs also have holes in them for the screws. NOTE: the collar will NOT sit flush on the circuit board...dont try to make it do that!
you will use two of the philips head screws in the kit to attach the collar in place. from the led side with screws in place...
from the inside...
NOTE: i am NOT using the kits turn signals, just the tail/brake lights. i cut the turn signal wires off. if you do use them, they get placed into the recessed channels on the side of the collar and up and out of the holes at the top of the channels. this allows the collar to sit flush inside the reflector housing.
i could not think of how the manufacturer intended to keep the circuit board secured to the reflector housing, so i drilled a very small hole in the top of the taillight assembly with the led's collar in place. i then used another of the philips screws from the kit to hold it all together. it is very secure, so i am recommending this step (unless you can think of something i couldnt!)
you may now attach the kits clear lense. note that the two tabs shown (one on each side) below did not connect with the tabs on the taillight housing. the remaining tabs did attach and hold it very securely...enough so that i didnt bother to mess with these two tabs.
plug the light into the bike and make sure it works. if so, (and it should) reattach the taillight assembly to the tailsection and reverse all prior steps.
it was too cold to raise the garage door, so heres the best view you will get for now!
for $20, this is a pretty good mod. i probably would be alittle peeved if i had paid the original $80. there are no instructions, so here is the way i did it. ymmv.
THE FOLLOWING IS TO REMOVE THE TAIL SECTION. if youve already done this, skip to the next section!
first, of course, remove the seat.
next, remove the small allen head bolt securing each side panel. once removed, pop off each side panel. there are two rubber grommet type fasteners, and depending when the last time they were removed was, they may take some pulling to get off.
now, go ahead and unplug the bulb from the taillight housing. you can leave the housing attached to the tail section, it will be removed later.
now remove the two philips head screws attaching the black moulding directly beneath the taillight and between the exhausts.
remove the four tail section mounting bolts. they are hex 12mm. there are two on top in front of the tail light...
and there is one on each side, normally hidden by the side panels. there is also a philips head screw on the bottom of each side that needs to be removed...fingers pointing to each...
now, pull out on the two sides of the tail section gently and lift up to give you some room for the next step. on the left side of the bike, on the backside of the tailsection, you will see a silver bracket that secures the taillight wire. it is secured with two philips head screws...go ahead and remove these.
you may finish lifting the tail section off of the bike now!
with the tailsection loose, you will need to seperate one side of the plastic facia panel from the actual tail section. this will allow the taillight assembly to be removed. there are two philips head screws on the under side of the tail section, remove them. now, on the left side of the tail section, gently use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the several small tabs securing the facia panel and lift one side of it away from the tail section (tabs are below the silver heat shielding, tail section is upside down in pic)
the facia panel should hang away from the tail section like so..
you may now remove the two philips head screws holding the taillight in place. carefully pull the taillight from its resting place (it may take some effort)
remove the taillight lense using a small flat blade screwdriver to carefully lift up on the mounting tabs.
TO INSTALL THE LED TAILLIGHT KIT (congrats if youve made it this far!)
the silver collar piece needs to be attached to the back of the led circuit board. the wires that are soldered in place are kindof in the way, but you can very carefully bend then out of the way. there are two holes in the circuit board that correspond with two tabs on the collar. the tabs also have holes in them for the screws. NOTE: the collar will NOT sit flush on the circuit board...dont try to make it do that!
you will use two of the philips head screws in the kit to attach the collar in place. from the led side with screws in place...
from the inside...
NOTE: i am NOT using the kits turn signals, just the tail/brake lights. i cut the turn signal wires off. if you do use them, they get placed into the recessed channels on the side of the collar and up and out of the holes at the top of the channels. this allows the collar to sit flush inside the reflector housing.
i could not think of how the manufacturer intended to keep the circuit board secured to the reflector housing, so i drilled a very small hole in the top of the taillight assembly with the led's collar in place. i then used another of the philips screws from the kit to hold it all together. it is very secure, so i am recommending this step (unless you can think of something i couldnt!)
you may now attach the kits clear lense. note that the two tabs shown (one on each side) below did not connect with the tabs on the taillight housing. the remaining tabs did attach and hold it very securely...enough so that i didnt bother to mess with these two tabs.
plug the light into the bike and make sure it works. if so, (and it should) reattach the taillight assembly to the tailsection and reverse all prior steps.
it was too cold to raise the garage door, so heres the best view you will get for now!
Last edited:
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You can do it.....:rockon:
After you do you'll appreciate it much more and it will be loads better than your OEM tail light.
jerdman89
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thanks for posting up the install pics tjhess74 there a lot better than what I would have been able to put up. I'm still working on getting a video I want to get a daylight vid and work is making that difficult.
Dr.Landau
Junior Member
Install complete with a few left over parts.
Its really not that difficult and took about an hour.
These previous posts were helpful as I reached those WTF moments, just retrieved the images from my head and it slid right in.
The most memorable was "how the hell do you secure this in the reflector....drill and a lil screw, problem solved (THANKS).
I wound up accidentally snapping 2 tabs off the smoke lens, it still fit secure, but I decided against it altogether and kept the red one.
I also wired in the signals without the resistors and while it flashes a lil faster its still fine by me, I have a bad habit of using hand signals anyway. Goodbye rabbit ear rears!!!
What are the orange tabs for?
What are the "chrome" little E's for?
Anyone want a free workable smoked rear lens?
Its really not that difficult and took about an hour.
These previous posts were helpful as I reached those WTF moments, just retrieved the images from my head and it slid right in.
The most memorable was "how the hell do you secure this in the reflector....drill and a lil screw, problem solved (THANKS).
I wound up accidentally snapping 2 tabs off the smoke lens, it still fit secure, but I decided against it altogether and kept the red one.
I also wired in the signals without the resistors and while it flashes a lil faster its still fine by me, I have a bad habit of using hand signals anyway. Goodbye rabbit ear rears!!!
What are the orange tabs for?
What are the "chrome" little E's for?
Anyone want a free workable smoked rear lens?
tjhess74
boo-yah!
the tabs and 'e's are wire crimp connectors. the tab has a 'flap' on top. if you open it you will see a small slot. the 'e' fits into the slot 'e' side down. you then put your main (power donor) wire in the outer most portion of the body of the tab. the wire (the one providing power to the accessory) goes into the inner most slot (parallel to the donor wire and nearest the hinge). it can only enter the tab from one direction.
you then use a pair of pliers to squeeze the 'e' and it cuts into the wires insulation, thus making an electrical connection. you then take the top 'flap' and snap it over the tab's body, sealing the top of the 'e' so it doenst make contact with anything. the wires will look like this inside the orange connector(the 'e' is represented by the brackets)...
------[
------[-------
those type of crimp connectors have been around awhile, but a newer style called 'positap' is better for the wire and is easier to install. they are the blue barrell connectors in the second picture. super simple, no tools needed, twist on, twist off.
if im not mistaken, the white resistors can just go inline in your turn signal wires. it would be a very easy installment if you want your regular flash rate back.
you then use a pair of pliers to squeeze the 'e' and it cuts into the wires insulation, thus making an electrical connection. you then take the top 'flap' and snap it over the tab's body, sealing the top of the 'e' so it doenst make contact with anything. the wires will look like this inside the orange connector(the 'e' is represented by the brackets)...
------[
------[-------
those type of crimp connectors have been around awhile, but a newer style called 'positap' is better for the wire and is easier to install. they are the blue barrell connectors in the second picture. super simple, no tools needed, twist on, twist off.
if im not mistaken, the white resistors can just go inline in your turn signal wires. it would be a very easy installment if you want your regular flash rate back.
Last edited:
Dr.Landau
Junior Member
Thanks Tj...
Great explanation although now I really dont know why'd they send those with the kit. There are much simpler solutions/connectors out there.
I havent done any night riding lately, might consider resisting them.
Great explanation although now I really dont know why'd they send those with the kit. There are much simpler solutions/connectors out there.
I havent done any night riding lately, might consider resisting them.
Chaosratt
Senior Member
Just got mine in the other day finally. Will have to see if I cant get compare it to the ones I made (I couldn't pass up $20 for this with the clear lens!)
tjhess74
boo-yah!
thinking about adding one of these...
Flashing Module Instructions
its the single circuit brake light flasher. flashes very rapidly for a few seconds then goes solid. definate attention getter.
Flashing Module Instructions
its the single circuit brake light flasher. flashes very rapidly for a few seconds then goes solid. definate attention getter.
Chaosratt
Senior Member
Hm, Autolumination's stuff always seemed cheap to me. Heard nothing but compliants about how dim their LED modules were. Please correct me if I am mistaken, but thats what I've read/heard.
Theres a post running around the forums here of a plug 'n play brake light flasher that just sits between the brake light connectors, has its own harneses and such so no cutting into the stock wiring. IIRC it was about $50 which is a tad more than AL's, but it also had a few more features as well.
Theres a post running around the forums here of a plug 'n play brake light flasher that just sits between the brake light connectors, has its own harneses and such so no cutting into the stock wiring. IIRC it was about $50 which is a tad more than AL's, but it also had a few more features as well.
red06
Junior Member
still waiting on my tail , sliders , flushmounts , bolt LED lights, im rebuilding my whole bike thanks to a crash
