Revving the engine?

[Kingwu]

I was told last night that reving the the motorcycle in high to somewhat- RPMs while it is idling and not in motion is not good for the motorcycle. Can anyone give me their input and the reasoning behind it?

 

[rsmith2072]

You will hear a lot of different opinions on everything. Some are true some are false and some come from a bit of truth(such as this one).

I have been on 2 wheels since I was 8 years old. That's 22 years of riding every style of bike there is. I have always loved to hear my engine and have always reved up. I personally have never had a problem.

Here's what can go wrong:
Your engine is built for high revs while under stress(in gear). So reving high RPM's in neutral can cause the engine to spend easier than built for. Which could effect valve adjustment. Which in time needs adjusted anyways.

This is just my opinion but rev up all you want. Just don't hold it down and let it bounce off the rev.

 

[trepetti]

You will hear a lot of different opinions on everything. Some are true some are false and some come from a bit of truth(such as this one).

I have been on 2 wheels since I was 8 years old. That's 22 years of riding every style of bike there is. I have always loved to hear my engine and have always reved up. I personally have never had a problem.

Here's what can go wrong:
Your engine is built for high revs while under stress(in gear). So reving high RPM's in neutral can cause the engine to spend easier than built for. Which could effect valve adjustment. Which in time needs adjusted anyways.

This is just my opinion but rev up all you want. Just don't hold it down and let it bounce off the rev.

+1 on the above......but more importantly, what was the reasoning behind the thought that revving the engine was bad?

I often find that more people repeat than understand. :spank:

 

[Kingwu]

You will hear a lot of different opinions on everything. Some are true some are false and some come from a bit of truth(such as this one).

I have been on 2 wheels since I was 8 years old. That's 22 years of riding every style of bike there is. I have always loved to hear my engine and have always reved up. I personally have never had a problem.

Here's what can go wrong:
Your engine is built for high revs while under stress(in gear). So reving high RPM's in neutral can cause the engine to spend easier than built for. Which could effect valve adjustment. Which in time needs adjusted anyways.

This is just my opinion but rev up all you want. Just don't hold it down and let it bounce off the rev.

Awesome. I probably just won't rev that high as you stated in your last sentence then. I love to hear it rev(even with my stock mufflers:thumbup

+1 on the above......but more importantly, what was the reasoning behind the thought that revving the engine was bad?

I often find that more people repeat than understand. :spank:

I wasn't given a reason, I was just told it was.

 

[trepetti]

Wise man once said 'Beware of experts without explanations'. Oops sorry. I said that. [emoji1]

 

[major tom]

I would not rev or zing the motor cold. It's designed to operate at running temps. Wait until internal temps stabilizes. Pistons to cylinder clearances. It is Japanese so it is as idiot proof as possible, still?

 

[thisisbenji]

Revving is probably fine, just don't go riding around bouncing off the rev limiter. People won't think you look cool, they'll just point and laugh.

 

[lawlberg]

I would not rev or zing the motor cold. It's designed to operate at running temps. Wait until internal temps stabilizes. Pistons to cylinder clearances. It is Japanese so it is as idiot proof as possible, still?

THIS!

Otherwise, rev it all you want if that tickles your fancy, though to be honest, aside from the occasional blip, people will probably think you're a bit of a Dbag.

 

[Kingwu]

Revving is probably fine, just don't go riding around bouncing off the rev limiter. People won't think you look cool, they'll just point and laugh.

THIS!

Otherwise, rev it all you want if that tickles your fancy, though to be honest, aside from the occasional blip, people will probably think you're a bit of a Dbag.

Haha, I wasn't revving it on the streets. I went into my garage last night and started it up because I didn't ride it that day my brother came in and said he read online that it wasn't good to rev high when idling.
I sometimes rev it up when I start it after going into the store, idk why, I just feel it warms up my motorcycle better(plus I love the sound)

 

[iSteve]

[youtubevid]Gs_FIIFugpU[/youtubevid]

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ I didn't watch that video but if it ends in a balls of flames, that's when the rod went through the block and hot oil hit the header! You be judge of "how good this is" for your engine! lol

I may run mine to the limit but its always brought up to temp by light loads at lower RPM's first and done so over time. like dragging you out of bed and throwing you into a triathlon. Pretty uncool and likely you won't be successful if sleeping one moment and running WOT the next.

As stated; New, tight, cold engines need to be brought to operating temp (fluids too) so the ALL components are up to operating temp. Ripping on them when cold, they may not have sufficient clearances is bad news. This often removes metal due to contact (oil is supposed to stop actual contact) and/or transfer metal that otherwise would not have contacted had the engine been allowed to warm gradually.

Those rare occasions where we see ROD failures with ALL copper showing in the bearings journal - I lay odds it had to do with how they were treated when cold.

As for Rev'ing for the sake of being d'bg; engines were designed to produce power. The power is meant to to be used. A quick zing is one thing, holding high static no load Rev's often times leads to stretched rods and broken wrists pins or damage to the piston wrist pin boss. Not to mention 50 other things that can and do go wrong despite engineering efforts.

Under load the engine vacuum drops, this adds fuel, retards timing, keeps combustion burn temperatures in check. Static rev's advance the timing to its fullest (on all but the best engineered equipment) and often times run super lean (more air then fuel) as the design inputs simply don't account for all conditions like being a D'bg for example.

Rev limiters can only do so much to protect an engine. Under load they chop the fuel and sometimes the spark too to reduce over-rev. This alone may not stop it from over-rev and subsequent mechanical damage. That said, there are mechanical limits that can not be exceeded.
For example - valve float. When the valve moves a rate that is faster than the CAMSHAFTS profile or the SPRINGS rate to keep the VALVE in CONTACT with the CAM, its considered "float". Float, drops valves as it pops keepers off the springs, creatures oscillations the springs can't dampen, this leads to coil bind as harmonic resonance over come the spring and it fails. Some scenarios will go directly to coil bind on the spring due to high RPM because the springs stacking the coils which also pops the keeper off.
When the spring fails AND/OR the keeper comes off the valve, the valve drops into the cylinder, the piston hits it and the shows over.

The over-rev here is just one condition. Prolonged static rev's do other crazy things like pump the oil to the top of the engine (its under pressure to get there via a pump) but ours relies on gravity for it return and be re-used. What happens if it doesn't get back in time? We are talking gravity and what if that oil is cold? The sump runs dry and with no oil pressure the rods squirt out the side after the bearings bind to the crankshaft, then the bearings spin and puke out the side.

I could go on with mechanical issues brought on by sustained static rev's but its just stupid. There is no point well unless you hate. If you hate and want something damaged, there ya go!

Someone will ask, well can't all of these things happen while using it for its intended purpose? Yes, some can and some do. However, your odds of inducing structural fatigue go WAY up from doing this. And the thing is, it can be a latent failure too. Meaning it happens later and perhaps not under such adverse conditions.

If anyone has some specific questions I've seen allot of things happen over the years.

 

[Kingwu]

[youtubevid]Gs_FIIFugpU[/youtubevid]

^^ I didn't watch that video but if it ends in a balls of flames, that's when the rod went through the block and hot oil hit the header! You be judge of "how good this is" for your engine! lol

I may run mine to the limit but its always brought up to temp by light loads at lower RPM's first and done so over time. like dragging you out of bed and throwing you into a triathlon. Pretty uncool and likely you won't be successful if sleeping one moment and running WOT the next.

As stated; New, tight, cold engines need to be brought to operating temp (fluids too) so the ALL components are up to operating temp. Ripping on them when cold, they may not have sufficient clearances is bad news. This often removes metal due to contact (oil is supposed to stop actual contact) and/or transfer metal that otherwise would not have contacted had the engine been allowed to warm gradually.

Those rare occasions where we see ROD failures with ALL copper showing in the bearings journal - I lay odds it had to do with how they were treated when cold.

As for Rev'ing for the sake of being d'bg; engines were designed to produce power. The power is meant to to be used. A quick zing is one thing, holding high static no load Rev's often times leads to stretched rods and broken wrists pins or damage to the piston wrist pin boss. Not to mention 50 other things that can and do go wrong despite engineering efforts.

Under load the engine vacuum drops, this adds fuel, retards timing, keeps combustion burn temperatures in check. Static rev's advance the timing to its fullest (on all but the best engineered equipment) and often times run super lean (more air then fuel) as the design inputs simply don't account for all conditions like being a D'bg for example.

Rev limiters can only do so much to protect an engine. Under load they chop the fuel and sometimes the spark too to reduce over-rev. This alone may not stop it from over-rev and subsequent mechanical damage. That said, there are mechanical limits that can not be exceeded.
For example - valve float. When the valve moves a rate that is faster than the CAMSHAFTS profile or the SPRINGS rate to keep the VALVE in CONTACT with the CAM, its considered "float". Float, drops valves as it pops keepers off the springs, creatures oscillations the springs can't dampen, this leads to coil bind as harmonic resonance over come the spring and it fails. Some scenarios will go directly to coil bind on the spring due to high RPM because the springs stacking the coils which also pops the keeper off.
When the spring fails AND/OR the keeper comes off the valve, the valve drops into the cylinder, the piston hits it and the shows over.

The over-rev here is just one condition. Prolonged static rev's do other crazy things like pump the oil to the top of the engine (its under pressure to get there via a pump) but ours relies on gravity for it return and be re-used. What happens if it doesn't get back in time? We are talking gravity and what if that oil is cold? The sump runs dry and with no oil pressure the rods squirt out the side after the bearings bind to the crankshaft, then the bearings spin and puke out the side.

I could go on with mechanical issues brought on by sustained static rev's but its just stupid. There is no point well unless you hate. If you hate and want something damaged, there ya go!

Someone will ask, well can't all of these things happen while using it for its intended purpose? Yes, some can and some do. However, your odds of inducing structural fatigue go WAY up from doing this. And the thing is, it can be a latent failure too. Meaning it happens later and perhaps not under such adverse conditions.

If anyone has some specific questions I've seen allot of things happen over the years.

Holy ****, you know your stuff. So, would you recommend rev-matching? I was doing this earlier, going from 3rd to 2nd to slow down instead of hitting my brakes.

 

[Carlos840]

Holy ****, you know your stuff. So, would you recommend rev-matching? I was doing this earlier, going from 3rd to 2nd to slow down instead of hitting my brakes.

Rev matching has little to do with slowing down.

The point of it is that you get less engine braking, and slow down less when downshifting, more importantly you minimize the chance of locking your rear wheel. Slowing down should still be done with the brakes.
Personally i really don't think throttle blipping is something a rider in his first week of riding should focus on.
There are a lot of things you should be doing before you start doing that.

 

[trepetti]

There is one thing I can think of where revving in neutral is not good, and that is reving it just before you select 1st gear. Revving the engine in neutral just gets all all the gears in the transmission spinning faster. When you elect 1st, the 'driven' 1st gear comes to a stop, causing a clunk proportionate to the speed of the gear. When you rev the engine in neutral just before you select 1st, the gears speed up, so bringing it to a stop generates a bigger clunk and puts unneeded stress on the dog clutches.

So if you DO rev the engine in neutral, let it settle down to idle speed before selecting 1st gear.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

[youtubevid]Gs_FIIFugpU[/youtubevid]

Love it, LOL!!!!:thumbup:


Several folks here looking for engines with rods thrown thru the case. Hummmm

 

[rsmith2072]

As I stated before I love to rev my engine. I rev my engine only for my personal satisfaction. I love to hear the sound of the exhaust. When I rev it's usually on a back road away from traffic. I only do it when the bike is warm and when my clutch is pulled in. I also don't do it a lot. When I do rev its only a short double tap that never reaches more than 8000 rpm's. I love my bike and want it to be in the best shape as possible so I would never have a revin match. I also wouldn't suggest any one else having a revin match. But to each his own and as long as you are having fun and can afford it then go ahead.

 

[kenh]

Awesome. I probably just won't rev that high as you stated in your last sentence then. I love to hear it rev(even with my stock mufflers:thumbup

I agree with your love of the exhaust sound. These engines are high tech in their design and many more parts moving at very high rates of speed especially in the upper RPM range. Besides not revving the engine cold, I let it come up to temp before I ride. The engine and it's internals will be much happier.

P.S. I sometimes sneak out to garage in the dead of winter to fire it up just to listen to the engine for a while. With all trees defoliated the sound really resonates through the neighborhood. :Flip: Seriously, if you want to truly enjoy the engine, replace your stock exhaust. You will have an even bigger smile on your face. Blah

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 ^^^. Replace it with some aftermarket pipes and then you'll REALLY like it.

You won't have to rev it half as much either as it won't sound like sewing machine anymore


I like the sound of mine so much with the open Scorps, its very rare I listen to my helmet stereo anymore. The engine/pipes are literally soothing..

 

[Kingwu]

+1 ^^^. Replace it with some aftermarket pipes and then you'll REALLY like it.

You won't have to rev it half as much either as it won't sound like sewing macine anymore


I like the sound of mine so much with the open Scorps, its very rare I listen to my helmet stereo anymore. The engine/pipes are literally soothing..

Got a video?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Got a video?

Sorry, no I don't.

There's should be plenty of sound bites on the forum. Sounds (at least from the sound bites I've heard, alot like Two Bro's).

I've never heard a Two Bro's exhaust on an FZ live either..

Kinda goes bruuuuuuu, brrrruuuuuu(gear shift), BRRRUUUUUUU!!!!, (to 10,000RPM), bruuu (Po Po up ahead)!