Rear shock question.

[Carlos840]

Re the CC, I wasn't talking about a permanent install. Just bolt it on (no springs) for this kind of work, then remove when done.


If you have a garage, (you own), I ran a 4" x 4" beam across the roof trusses(at least four).

Drilled the 4x4 and put a 1/2" threaded dowel thru it (with a nut and washers on top). Punched thru the garage ceiling and installed a round threaded hook to the rod.

I could easily pick up the back of your bike (with some tie downs creatively placed) and run some additional ties to the handle bars to keep it from tipping.

Something to consider (if its possible on your end, cheap too)

Its strong enough (I have one on each side of my two car garage) that I've pulled a small block Chevy engine and transmission with it with a come-along.

I just ordered the gold valves and my shock!

I ended up going with an M-shock, made by shock-factory:

M Shocks

It's a one man operation, he was one of the founders of EMC, famous french shocks, and started Shock Factory a couple years ago.
They are still pretty new, but they have good reviews, and the price is very good!


Scott, i have just realised i have a place at home with strong trusses that should be useable to lift the rear of the bike safely.
Where would you attach the straps on the bike? Would you go under the sub frame? Through the grab handles? not sure what the best place would be!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott, i have just realised i have a place at home with strong trusses that should be useable to lift the rear of the bike safely.
Where would you attach the straps on the bike? Would you go under the sub frame? Through the grab handles? not sure what the best place would be!

For the rear, wrap the tie downs (soft strap part) around the sub frame by the rear pegs (or the rear peg steel "extensions" that are welded to the sub-frame-that area) for lifting. I would lift just enough to take care of business.

I'd run another set for stability at the outer ends of the handle bars

(Definitly NOT the grab bars).

 

[Carlos840]

For the rear, wrap the tie downs (soft strap part) around the sub frame by the rear pegs (or the rear peg steel "extensions" that are welded to the sub-frame-that area) for lifting. I would lift just enough to take care of business.

I'd run another set for stability at the outer ends of the handle bars

(Definitly NOT the grab bars).

Thanks, that's what i thought, but i wanted to be sure it would not rip my sub frame off!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks, that's what i thought, but i wanted to be sure it would not rip my sub frame off!

Naw, it's not going anywhere unless you un-bolt it...:thumbup:

 

[outasight20]

I'd use the ole milk crate under the header and let the front tire rest on the ground technique.

It won't be stable resting on the header so if your working in a garage, two well placed tie downs from the rafters to the handle bar / frame would be a good back up. Even attaching tie downs from the bars downward to something solid should keep the bike steady.

If you have a MC trailer, that would be even better. Tie the front bars down to the trailer as normal and jack the header closer to the rear, picking up the back tire/rear end...

Wouldn't you essentially be putting 450+ pounds on a milk crate this way? Sounds dangerous, not to mention the headers probably can't support the weight of the bike.

 

[Carlos840]

Wouldn't you essentially be putting 450+ pounds on a milk crate this way? Sounds dangerous, not to mention the headers probably can't support the weight of the bike.

The headers easily support the weight of the bike, many people, me included, have done it numerous time without anything going wrong.

Now, i would personally not use a milk crate, but a log or a jack works perfectly fine.

 

[greg]

FWIW I use an Abba stand, which mounts on the swing arm pivots, if you need to completely remove the swingarm then you can get mount holds that screw into the footrest bolt holes

another cheap solution is to use car axle stands under the pegs, though this isn't as secure. (best with rear sets I think)

and another is to use ratchet straps mounted from the ceiling to support the bike, best combined with the previous one IMO.

I use a big piece of wood under the headers, the service manual specifically states that they can be load bearing from what I recall

 

[FinalImpact]

Observation about bike weight on the header. Header has a rubber isolator biscuit that's likely getting dried out by now. Point: it may crush and fail spitting the rubber out later making a nasty vibration.

I have no issues supporting the nose for fork work as the center stand takes 85% of the bikes weight. Headers the other 15%.
Turning this around so the weight is on the nose and header places something like 60% or more on the header so ~ 250 to 275 lbs - depends on the how far back it is.

Grab handles are some kind of resin material. Good for quick load but I wouldn't hang it on them. As mentioned the passenger peg sub-frame would be good for tie straps.

I don't see the front pegs as an option with them folding.

Other wild ideas:
For shock work only - block the rear tire to the sub-frame. Just don't knock the block out.
Go raid a kids BMX for some pegs (used for grinding). Place one on each side of the swing arm pivot and run a long bolt through it. Set it on jack stands.

- just thinking out loud!

 

[Carlos840]

Hey,

Just wanted to update this thread a little.

After a bit of geeking around i decided to try to swap the shock using a front wheel chock and some jack stands.
What i did was get the motorcycle in the front wheel chock, then use my rear stand to lift the rear up on the swingarm.
I then used some jack stands under the rear sets, removed the rear stand, done, motorcycle up in the air, no tension on the swingarm.

Changing the shock was very easy, no need to remove the rear wheel like mentioned in the shop manual, just used vice grips on the sleeve, while shacking the swingarm up and down and it came out in 10 seconds.

If you want more info here is the thread:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...al-motorcycle-update.html?posted=1#post586312