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Ram Air Ideas Wanted

OK Fred, thanks!

I gotcha now. I was just thinking of the nozzling effect only. I understand nozzles and diffusers quite well now after getting out of thermo this semester. I just didnt fully understand the balancing act between velocity and pressure with in the intake of the motor and where each variable was needed.

Thanks for explaining that. As for the air box resinance, all I know about that stuff is the old school DTM cars. The ol' 190's and e30 M3's with the carbon air boxes... urg. Those are sick.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8fy9SzlHF8"]YouTube - the sound of dtm[/ame]

For those that dont know. That noise you are hearing is the carbon fiber intake resonating. Individual throttle boddies, carbon runners and collector. Notice the cars get quieter as they pass...

-bryan
 
Just woke up with another thought. If the honeycomb effect does reduce turbulance, it could be added at any point in our intake system. How gradually does our duct work have to taper up to sufficiently increase pressure? What if you put a section of tapered honeycomb directly in front of the air filter, such that the small end would connect to your duct work and the large end would butt up to the air filter, sealed to it around the outside. Would the cells taper individually enough to cause the desired air pressure increase? Would the honeycomb reduce the turbulance low enough to cancel some turbulance earlier in the duct work? If so, you could have more freedom with the path of your ducts, as long as the airflow did not get restricted. Would the same principle work at the other end of our system? Honeycomb at the scoop end might allow you to place the ram intakes in a more turbulent position. If anything you'll need it up there to keep the trash out of your duct work. One large bug might choke a ram air wind pipe to death. Also, I understand the concept of large scoop to small ductwork=high airspeed & low pressure, but would there come a point when the system is handling as much air as it can, and a larger scoop could not move the air any faster? Would it then only increase the pressure of the system(assuming that the air column was properly tapered up later)? This is what keeps me up at night.
 
Try something like this:
power_booster.jpg

:D
 
Brandon78 said:
Just woke up with another thought. If the honeycomb effect does reduce turbulance, it could be added at any point in our intake system. How gradually does our duct work have to taper up to sufficiently increase pressure? What if you put a section of tapered honeycomb directly in front of the air filter, such that the small end would connect to your duct work and the large end would butt up to the air filter, sealed to it around the outside. Would the cells taper individually enough to cause the desired air pressure increase? Would the honeycomb reduce the turbulance low enough to cancel some turbulance earlier in the duct work? If so, you could have more freedom with the path of your ducts, as long as the airflow did not get restricted. Would the same principle work at the other end of our system? Honeycomb at the scoop end might allow you to place the ram intakes in a more turbulent position. If anything you'll need it up there to keep the trash out of your duct work. One large bug might choke a ram air wind pipe to death. Also, I understand the concept of large scoop to small ductwork=high airspeed & low pressure, but would there come a point when the system is handling as much air as it can, and a larger scoop could not move the air any faster? Would it then only increase the pressure of the system(assuming that the air column was properly tapered up later)? This is what keeps me up at night.
Click to expand...


I have no clue. In theory it might work, but the only way to see if it does work with some models. Using some CAD work and some flow-models, it could be checked.

You want the ducts to be as straight as possible with as few bends as possible. If there are any, they need to be as sweeping as possible. Even with the diffusers, the air will change between them. The air will slow down as it touches the sides. This will cause flow changs as well. The air in the center of the pipe is always faster than the air touching the sides of the pipe. Things like this have to be considered when doing this. There are special programs out there to help model these systems. At school we have them on your computers, however I have no idea how to use them.

-bryan
 
a wrecked 07 fz6 came in the shop today for a damage estimate.the front cowl is damaged enough to be scrapped, but not enough to be repaired and fitted for bug catchers! it will take close to 3 months for the process of the repair work to be finalized before its mine to cut up. so this adds another component to the PUZZLE!
 
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there was a honeycomb section to the intake on my 2.0 turbo dsm right at the mass air flow sensor which was just after the air filter. not sure if it was there for the maf to work properly or for the turbulence to be taken out of the system for better flow going to the turbo. either way it was there for a reason and it may be best to put some kind of honeycomb after the air filter on the fz6 as the filter may cause a lot of turbulence. maybe attach some honeycomb screen to the bottom of the filter if possible. just a thought.
 
tum226 said:
there was a honeycomb section to the intake on my 2.0 turbo dsm right at the mass air flow sensor which was just after the air filter. not sure if it was there for the maf to work properly or for the turbulence to be taken out of the system for better flow going to the turbo. either way it was there for a reason and it may be best to put some kind of honeycomb after the air filter on the fz6 as the filter may cause a lot of turbulence. maybe attach some honeycomb screen to the bottom of the filter if possible. just a thought.
Click to expand...


I think that would be kinda hard to do. The only place I can see where it could go is inside in intake runners themselves. However, from what I have gathered from some flow bench guys ,the rounded ends on the runners in the airbox, do that job pretty well. If you notice, next time you open your airbox, the rounded rubber tips on the intake tubes. This allows for a smoother air flow into each runner and eliminates the turbulence of the air. The same thing is done by using clay on the heads when attached to a flow bench. It is my understanding that the honeycomb you are refering to not only protects the resistors in the MAF as well as diffuse the air.

-bryan
 
well so far it seems that it would take extensive mods to the tank or the frame for only a monitary gain in performance.its just not worth the trouble.i appreciate everyone who tossed this idea around.there are alot of intelegent members in this forum. So thanks again ,and "Keep the shiny side up,and the rubber side down"
 
Oh yeah, the gains are minimal and can't be recorded on a dyno, but the project would be fun and...you could claim that it "feels like 10% more power". Afterall the butt dyno never lies. :rolleyes:
 
I will say I am 100% sure that the screen in front of the mass air flow sensor does in fact work. I have an 89 Mustang GT, when it was stock I put a Pro-M 75mm meter on it without a screen and the car did not run right. I screened the sensor and it smoothed idle quality, throttle response, it worked wonders. That being said, on our bikes, wouldn't the air filter smooth the air as it entered through the intake box and into the throttle bodies due to the close proximity? I maybe wrong with that, but it would make sense to me.
 
Yeah the screen helped control the turbulance,smoothing the air flow allowing the sensor to work properly .there doesnt seem to be a feasible way to put a ram air system on the our bikes without major mods.I like my bike the way it is. Im lookin for a used Busa to cure my need for RIDCULOUS speed. I will keep my fz though I like the riding posisition thats why I bought it.
 
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No way would I throw a 50 shot on it. I don't know how you would supplement that much fuel to compensate. I wouldnt throw more than 25 on it. You figure, ram air on a motorcycle adds 5-10hp at speed?
 
after I had my FZ for a while, I was interested in making a ram air intake.
My idea was to take the end of a leaf blower(I know:confused:)
Look at the parts diagram and you'll see that the tip of the leaf blower is flat and I though that it would mate up well with the gap between the tank and the frame. Also the tube was smooth on the inside and transitioned easily from circular to the flat, wide exit that would mate with the frame/tank gap if properly sealed.
After much contemplation, I scrapped the idea as HP gains were not assured.
I have read about a CO2 system that chills fuel and intake temp.
Practicality on a bike is iffy, but it will work.
 
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