Problem: Rear Wheel Drive Hub - Stripped Nuts

[cuskoski]

Okay, so I went to replace my chain and sprockets this weekend. Chain comes off fine, replaced the front sprocket fine. But when I went to pull off the rear sprocket, I found that five of the six nuts just spin around the bolts. Watching carefully confirms that the nuts are spinning, but the bolts are not.

So, first impulse was to replace the whole drive hub. That looked a little pricey, so I went through some other options. What I came up with was to hit the bolts with a chisel and twist them out like a screw. Pretty standard bolt removal tactic. But before I tried it, I checked the price on replacements (which I probably have to order anyway). And, wow, nine bucks a set for what amounts to a bolt, washer, and nut. So, I think maybe I can get the parts at the local Ace Hardware store. They are listed as a stud bolt, self locking nut, and plate washer. Should be easy enough, but my problem is this: Do these bolts have some kind of special thread or sealant used to fit them to the drive hub? Basically, if I pull these things out, will I be able to get standard stud bolts in there, or if I get the Yamaha OEM ones, will they go in without some additional part I don't know about?

I'm running a 2007 Yamaha FZ6 with somewhere around 45,000 miles on last time I checked. Also, I'm really rough on my chains. Its my only transport and, since I'm in Western Washington state, if I lubed the chain every time it rained, I'd follow up by buying stock in chain lube companies. Any suggestions?

 

[Motogiro]

Ouch!. Off the top of my head I remember [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] talking about torque specifications on those bolts/nuts that were grossly in error. Do not torque to a spec until you have confirmed the correct spec. which may be incorrect in the manual. If your nut is turning on a stationary stud, it sound as if they're stripped. This may be due to being torqued to an incorrect specification. Of course anything out of the norm, especially on a bike is not safe!

Next, I would not rely on a hardware store for parts in a driveline. Parts are designed with properties for strength or even sheer depending on application. You will be good if you can remove the spocket and replace the OEM studs, washers and lock nuts, I believe you will have the best solution from this point forward. I'm hoping the clutch hub threads are not damaged.
There are a few OEM part suppliers.
I get my OEM parts from here: https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/50045b88f8700209bc794132/rear-wheel

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

IMO, take a dremel (or similar) to the nuts and try NOT to ruin the studs. They may not be stripped.

If their holding tight IN THE HUB, (hub is good), yes you can replace them as needed.

The shop manual calls for over 72' lbs on those nuts.

There's been an in depth discussion on that # being too high. Sounds like someone took it up to 72 and you just discovered the consequences of it.

As the Yamaha nuts are self locking (and you can see they work well!), Last sprocket change I did, I stopped at 60' lbs (DRY THREADS) . It's not going anywhere...

As Motogiro posted, use OEM parts.

BTW, the manual doesn't call for any loctite. If I had to replace a stud in the carrier, I'd probably use a spot of RED Loctite on the carrier threads.

 

[Motogiro]

Also, Here is a link to a thread that relates to this question. http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...led-studs.html?highlight=torque+specification

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates?

 

[FinalImpact]

Splitting the nut is a good choice for removal. It has been my experience that grime and a very aggressive self locking nut tends to damage the threads on the way off.

Then if not cleaned and all oil and grease removed, the threads get pulled as 72 ft/lbs is too much w a trace of lube present.

When I swapped sprockets adding teeth I cleaned and lubed the stud/nuts before removal. Threads on both parts are fine.

Then I thoroughly cleaned nuts and studs, fitted sprocket and torqued nuts to spec in 3 stages using criss cross pattern.

As for the studs, they are fine pitch for the nut and course pitch into the hub. I'd use only blue medium locker on them and even that is likely not required as the lock nut will keep the assembly together. That said, the studs may come out on the next sprocket change if the lock nuts grab the studs.

If you go with a non-OEM stud, make sure its at least a 10.9 or 12.9 grade.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates????

 

[cuskoski]

Sorta-not-really-Update: well, I listened and decided not to get parts from Ace Hardware. I was going to have to order the parts online and needed the bike the next day, so I just put the wheel back on to get moving (old sprocket is pretty much fine and clearly not going anywhere). Then, I put the brake caliper back on and noticed that my brake pads are pretty much shot. Grrrr... those and all the shims go on the parts list. Get the brakes back in place and go to put the new chain on. Amazon apparently decided to send me the version of the chain that uses rivets instead of the clip style that I always use. So. Now I borrow a friend's car to go to the local overpriced motorcycle shop to buy a riviting tool. Turns out they had one, but it ran around 95 bucks. And I need the bike the next day. So, my 130 dollar job of changing my chain has turned into a 400 dollar job because the service manual was wrong. Fun.

Well, I got the chain on, ordered the parts, got the a lot faster than I thought I would (thanks, yamahapartshouse.com !), and am now waiting to figure out how to crack the nuts without breaking the bolts and, ideally, not have to spend money on more tools.

At least it runs...