Pod lights

novaks47

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Looks good! Keep us updated as to how long they last.

For some reason, I can get only about a month or two out of LED's in there before they start flickering, then they eventually just die. I got tired of removing the fairing inner pieces, so I just ripped it all out. lol I tried some regular bulbs, and they were pathetic. So dim that even at night with the headlight off, they were almost invisible.

If yours last, I'm just going to order whatever you got and try again.
 

FinalImpact

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Looks good! Keep us updated as to how long they last.

For some reason, I can get only about a month or two out of LED's in there before they start flickering, then they eventually just die. I got tired of removing the fairing inner pieces, so I just ripped it all out. lol I tried some regular bulbs, and they were pathetic. So dim that even at night with the headlight off, they were almost invisible.

If yours last, I'm just going to order whatever you got and try again.

About 3500 miles so far. . .
Hint the bag label says Don't use them in areas next to the head light! lol
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...FWLED-xHP5.htm

I suggest you order LEDs that have a specified lead for polarity. The ones that are not polarized have more stuff to go wrong and it costs more.
 

AURMEND

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Okay sorry guys for the big bump but i do not want to start a new thread for something small.

When drilling out and putting in the R1 Socket with work as a substitute for the R1 SocketT10 socket

Cons of using this vs R1 sockets?

thats all guys thanks!
 

Motogiro

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Okay sorry guys for the big bump but i do not want to start a new thread for something small.

When drilling out and putting in the R1 Socket with work as a substitute for the R1 SocketT10 socket

Cons of using this vs R1 sockets?

thats all guys thanks!

:welcome:to this awesome forum!

I don't have my FZ6 anymore but if those pods are set up to take the T-10 type socket there are plenty of LEDs that should fit. My SV10000s uses the T-10

I'm not positive but I thought motojoe122 had T-10 type in his pods...
 

AURMEND

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Haha Thanks! since it does have a smaller hole vs the r1 sockets i might try this and if it doesnt work ill drill bigger and get the r1 sockets.

Off topic side note: Im modifying stock exhaust that i acquired for $40. i have to see what i have available i might use 1.25 OD or 1.5 OD piping. Here's a drawing:
GhC0Ex4.jpg
 

motojoe122

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:welcome:to this awesome forum!

I don't have my FZ6 anymore but if those pods are set up to take the T-10 type socket there are plenty of LEDs that should fit. My SV10000s uses the T-10

I'm not positive but I thought motojoe122 had T-10 type in his pods...

Thats correct, Cliff. They are 1w, forward firing, T10. Bright as heck! I use them as my running lights/turn indicators.


1w vs. stock.
 

Nelly

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Pod lights is this another standard feature that the US models don't come as standard with?

Nelly
 

motojoe122

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So, would you say they're brighter than the stock front OEM turns?
Tks

I would say so. I learned a little bit more about lights as I messed with this, what I learned was that the lens is cut for incandescent bulbs. I tried a few fwd/side firing led's but they were not bright enough because of the lens. Thats how I ended up with the brightest fwd firing led that I could find. Actually, a forum member suggested them. I can't think right off hand who it was, I think it's in the thread I posted about the mod.
 

raja777m

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None - I did my own thing.
After I pulled the inner panels off the fairing to gain access and saw that only 2 12mm bolts hold the WHOLE FAIRING on, I disconnected the 2 wire harnesses on the left and removed the 2 bolts taking the whole thing inside! So much easier to work on! I'm guessing that took like 5 minutes or less! Seriously I spent more time staring at it than working on it.

Tools:
- OEM allen wrench
- 10 and 12 mm socket and ratchet. 10mm to check that your mirrors aren't falling off! :rolleyes:
- soldering iron
- a drill capable of holding 1/2" bit perhaps a 9/16" would do in a pinch (hole size is 0.550")
- lighter to heat shrink tubing

Materials:
Tape
Zip Ties
Solder
Pod lamp socket from Yamaha PN 5PW-84312-00-00
Connector to yamaha pod lamp (sorry no PN, I had one laying around that locked into it!)
194 lamp or equivalent LED (LED Products | Super Bright LEDs)


Steps:
1) remove inner panels L & R, 2 bolts each by gas tank
2) remove inner panel center section 6 bolts, remove panel
3) disconnect the 2 wiring harnesses, inner left panel
4) remove the two 12mm bolts holding the main support. The whole fairing comes off in 5min.
5) drill the pod lights out using 0.550" drill. Or drill to 0.5" and ream it over to 0.550"
6) insert yamaha pod lamp holder PN 5PW-84312-00-00 with 94 series incandescent lamps or LEDs. I used LEDs PN: WLED-xHP5: LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb - WLED-AHP5: Amber @5.95ea
7) Decide on use; running lights, blinkers, or runners that blink (see below)
8) splice in what you need and seal it all up with shrink tubing. I soldered mine on as I don't like the pinch type wire taps.

Hint - when drilling fire up the vacuum and try to suck the loose particles out or pull the main bulbs and vacuum them out. If these bits of plastic stick to a bulb they could cause it to crack and fail.


My choice was Running lights active with key.
I spliced into the turn signal indicators between the stalk and the connector.
Black = ground (-) & Blue +12V when key is on. I did not tamper with the harness in the fairing. The indicator stalks are easily replaced so I tapped into them.

That's about it. check all the screws in fairing for tightness and put it back together.

If you want them to blink ONLY and not be running lights, hook them to the Dark Green (+12 blinker Left) and the Chocolate Brown (+12 blinker Right). Black is still ground. Remember the front lights have three wires.
If you want them to blink AND act as running lights I suggest you install a two micro relays but others have been known to float the ground using the BLUE wire as (+) to the lamp and the L or R Green/Brown as a floating ground (must have incandescent bulbs in the front or rear for this to work. ALL LEDs and this will require 2 small relays.

Drilled the hole:
DSC_5031PodHoleDrilled.jpg


Wired the lights:
DSC_5041podwires.jpg


Installed the LED and plug:
DSC_5043Podwire.jpg


Bits:
For hitting the the middle and straying true to your hole, this center tap bit is where it's at! It's 0.500" so I needed that burr to ream it over just a tad.
DSC_5135Bits.jpg


Take it Off:
Pulling the whole fairing off is a breeze - don't hesitate, its very painless.
DSC_5036FairingCrop.jpg

I might sound greedy for more light,
can I use this 12 LED or 10 smd projectors for both DRL and blinker functionality?
Car VEHICLE H7 3528 SMD 120 LED White Fog Light Bulbs Lamp

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-bulb--10-smd-led-wedge-base-tower/1701/4011/

Thank You.
 
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FinalImpact

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I might sound greedy for more light,
can I use this 120 LED or 10 smd projectors for both DRL and blinker functionality?
Car VEHICLE H7 3528 SMD 120 LED White Fog Light Bulbs Lamp

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-bulb--10-smd-led-wedge-base-tower/1701/4011/

Thank You.

A loaded question....
It depends where you get your power from (turn lamps vs running lamps).
That said the second link shows 3watts / 0.22Amps for the 194 series 10 led.

Either power supply should be fine with the addition of these bulbs. Its just a bit more tricky to use them as DTRL AND Signal indicators.

The others link does not share any details (power in watts or Amps) and mounting them will require an H7 socket. You'll have to get creative in mounting something like that in there. Find out how much load (current) they draw as they may be ok in that regard but IDK!
 

Motogiro

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I might sound greedy for more light,
can I use this 120 LED or 10 smd projectors for both DRL and blinker functionality?
Car VEHICLE H7 3528 SMD 120 LED White Fog Light Bulbs Lamp

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-bulb--10-smd-led-wedge-base-tower/1701/4011/

Thank You.

Yes you could use those as directional indicators but you will need to use a relay set up to interrupt the DRL signal when you activate your directional indicators. Like these... Blinker Genie for Run and Turn with LED Signals on Motorcycles – Custom LED

A very important consideration is that they are close to the headlights and may be less visible because of reduced contrast of light.
 

raja777m

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I guess i have to do some homework with FinalImpact's and Motogiro's suggestions.
I'll try checking the amps for signal/directional lights whether the projector LED's gets enough power, else i'll purchase the relay to interrupt...DRL.
I guess these LED projectors should give enough light as, they are used as fog lamps by cagers(as seen in pics) and the stock headlights suck anyway.
Step by step, first BD43 and these pod lights, then in a month time, will switch to HIDs for the main lights..!
 

raja777m

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FinalImpact

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FWIW: headlights only come on when the engine is running. IIRC his electric blue has Dual Headlight mod also.... :thumbup:
 
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