POD Lights - I am ready for my next mod

zamolxes

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Hi,

I am sure this has been discussed before but the search tool does not seem to be very efficient on the forum. So can you please help me out?

I am ready to order the following:

* R1 Pod Light Sockets (Motorcycle Parts, Motorcycle Accessories BikeBandit.com part #1486440-001, Yamaha Part # 5PW-84312-00-00)
* Amber 194 led bulbs from fleabay
SL-HPA-1.jpg


I have found the info to have them as running lights but I am wondering if I want them as turn signals and running lights in the same time, is it possible?


I know they will not blink faster as I have changed my tail light to the fancy led one with integrated signals and it does not blink faster as I have kept my signal lights original which fixed that problem to begin with.

As well, because I was contemplating to have my signal lights changed to leds as well, I already have the Customled relay I can install just in case.


Thanks a lot for your help and have a safe ride.
 

Jman

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You can get LED bulbs at Auto Zone or regular amber lamps.....FYI....not sure if they are in your area or not. I intend to run mine as running lights and blinkers one way or another.
 
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AdamDJ

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I think I can help out here.. The intergrated tail light doesnt blink fast because it already has built in resistors.. Atleast the ones I have seen for sale do.. So you will probably need a special turn signal relay meant for LED's

So you are going to wire these as running lights? and want them to double as turn signals.. You can do that with the help of whats called a NC relay.. NC means normally closed. Check out this diagram for an explination..

You need a 12v NC Relay.. Make sure you get a normally closed relay as most are normally open. This is very important, If you get the wrong relay it will not work at all.

You are going to wire a signal from either the tail light, or plate light, or running light.. Any light source that is always on when the bike is on. Tap into the positive wire from that source and Run that positive signal to to the relay and connect to the connector labeled 30. This is one half of the switch part of the relay and on a NC relay it is closed so the light will always be on. Attatch the positive wire from the pod to number 87 connection of the relay. The negative connection of the pod can be wired to any ground or neg you choose.

Now you want to tap into an exsiting set of turn signal wires.. Tap into the positive wire and run that to number 85 on the relay. Tap into the negative turn signal wire and run that to number 86 on the relay..

The way this works is your pod light will constantly receive power from the tail light or where ever you draw the signal from.. Since it is getting constant power it will always be on whenever the bike is on.. When you activate the turn signal it is going to open up the switch in the relay thus turning off your pod light. When the signal light is on, the pod light is off. When the signal turns back off the pod will turn back on.. I hope this all makes sense.. Let me know if you have any questions!
 

SANGER_A2

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I'm not completely sure what you already have or are planning. If you keep the stock 10w bulbs and use the LED bulbs in the podlights AS WELL AS THE FRONT STOCKERS and use the LEDs in the integrated tail light AS WELL AS THE REAR STOCKERS. As long as there is a load of 20 watts or higher they they will blink as normal, if you go below that, they will blink faster.

Putting too much load on the system will blow stuff up though!:) I used 23 watt bulbs in my indicators for a while and that melted a connector after a while.
 

zamolxes

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I'm not completely sure what you already have or are planning. If you keep the stock 10w bulbs and use the LED bulbs in the podlights AS WELL AS THE FRONT STOCKERS and use the LEDs in the integrated tail light AS WELL AS THE REAR STOCKERS. As long as there is a load of 20 watts or higher they they will blink as normal, if you go below that, they will blink faster.

Putting too much load on the system will blow stuff up though!:) I used 23 watt bulbs in my indicators for a while and that melted a connector after a while.




I was thinking about that actually and that is why I wanted to install the LED versions. I said that by having a tail LED light it already draws less then the bulb it was there before. Installing led pod lights should not draw a lot of electricity. Of course I did the dual light mod so that draws a lot of juice... but can I maybe replace my signal lights bulbs with leds one like soo?

1157.jpg


As I said earlier, I do have the main relay to bring back flashing rate to regular speeds.

Thanx
 

Iethius

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Just did mine two weeks ago, turned out great, planning to post a thread but have been very busy lately.
I learned a couple things.

You do not need a relay.
You can hook them up as running lights only.
You can make them only come on as blinkers.
Or you can make them running lights that alternate between running and blinkers.
I will put up a couple pics but hope to do an entire thread soon, I took lots of notes and pics.
 

Iethius

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I preferred to splice into the stock blinkers not the wiring harness.
This way if it got fouled up I could just get new blinkers.
Pods were $2.99 each, bulbs 17.95 pair.(Shucks)
Don't think I would use the same pods if I had to do it again, they were a little tricky to make tight.
Bulbs are good .
 
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AdamDJ

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Oh I think I see what you did there... I did the same thing with the side markers on my Infiniti.. You tapped into the + on the blinker and the + of the running light and it ends up getting its ground by running back thru the signal bulb.. There can be difficulties though if 1 or both of the bulbs are LED though..
 

Iethius

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Oh I think I see what you did there... I did the same thing with the side markers on my Infiniti.. You tapped into the + on the blinker and the + of the running light and it ends up getting its ground by running back thru the signal bulb.. There can be difficulties though if 1 or both of the bulbs are LED though..

What are some potential problems that you are aware of?

I am quite comfortable with relays, switches, etc. 12v 24v 110 220 480, ac to dc power supplies, programing motor drives, wiring schematics, etc, etc. I am just a cheap DIY guy. I do not have so many hours working on bikes, but the electrical principals are similar I believe.
I do not see a problem with the common ground, it is protected by a 10 amp fuse, giving it a separate ground wire seems redundant to me although I do not have any electrical degrees, just a DIY guy.
I only have about 10 hrs on this mod, if they melt out I will be sure to post it.

Any input from anyone would be taken sincerely, I know there are a lot of people who know more than me about this stuff.
I once lost a Dodge Charger to fire because of a bad ground, if that happened to my FZ6 I would be really sad.
 

AdamDJ

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What are some potential problems that you are aware of?

I am quite comfortable with relays, switches, etc. 12v 24v 110 220 480, ac to dc power supplies, programing motor drives, wiring schematics, etc, etc. I am just a cheap DIY guy. I do not have so many hours working on bikes, but the electrical principals are similar I believe.
I do not see a problem with the common ground, it is protected by a 10 amp fuse, giving it a separate ground wire seems redundant to me although I do not have any electrical degrees, just a DIY guy.
I only have about 10 hrs on this mod, if they melt out I will be sure to post it.

Any input from anyone would be taken sincerely, I know there are a lot of people who know more than me about this stuff.
I once lost a Dodge Charger to fire because of a bad ground, if that happened to my FZ6 I would be really sad.

ohhh, the problems I was alluding to dont involve power surges or blown fuses or melted harnesses or anything like that.. The way this mod works is when you wire into the positive of the running light and positive of the turn signal, your new light has to get a ground from somewhere.. It gets it by running down the pos wire, thru the bulb, and into the ground wire.. This isnt a problem at all but if your using LED bulbs they may not let the power thru since they are polarity specific.. The problem could be one of the components may not light up like its supposed to or when its supposed to.. Switching back to a regular bulb can fix it.. If it is working fine with LED's than your all good, nothing to worry about!
 
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Iethius

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ohhh, the problems I was alluding to dont involve power surges or blown fuses or melted harnesses or anything like that.. The way this mod works is when you wire into the positive of the running light and positive of the turn signal, your new light has to get a ground from somewhere.. It gets it by running down the pos wire, thru the bulb, and into the ground wire.. This isnt a problem at all but if your using LED bulbs they may not let the power thru since they are polarity specific.. The problem could be one of the components may not light up like its supposed to or when its supposed to.. Switching back to a regular bulb can fix it.. If it is working fine with LED's than your all good, nothing to worry about!

Not familiar with LEDS, must have been lucky and bought the good ones.
Thanks for the input, I am not so scarred of my Fazer going inferno now, thanks for the reply.
 

HaChayalBoded

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I preferred to splice into the stock blinkers not the wiring harness.
This way if it got fouled up I could just get new blinkers.
Pods were $2.99 each, bulbs 17.95 pair.(Shucks)
Don't think I would use the same pods if I had to do it again, they were a little tricky to make tight.
Bulbs are good .

Where did you find the pods for $2.99?
 
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