Painting Wheels

[gwalker93]

Hey guys sorry if this is the wrong section for this, but I was wondering if any of you have had experience with painting wheels or have any knowledge about it that you could share with me.
I recently talked to my motorcycle mechanic about painting the wheels and he really isn't a pro about painting or anything but he told me to use 400 grain sand paper to completely strip the current paint off the wheels and clean it really well with alcohol removing all grease, dirt, etc. from the wheel and then you should be pretty close to being ready to paint if not ready to paint. He wasn't sure of the type of paint to use and neither do I. Any suggestions for that?
I have a 2005 fz6 and I want to re paint the black (current) wheels with black just to give it a cleaner look due to the paint chipping/corroding if you will. I don't really think it's chipping but I just thought it was just really dirty but I scrubbed the rims for a good while and it still spears to have a "weak" spot of paint, for a lack of better words lol. (mainly on the back rim)
Anyway I plan to repaint them in a few weeks and just wanted to hear your guys advise/input.
Thanks!
-Garrett


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[lawlberg]

Really kinda depends on how much you're looking to spend. However you go about it, you'll want to use a primer to get it to stick and then a couple of coats.

Do you have a pressurized sprayer setup? Are you going to be going with the rattle can approach? Have you thought about colors? Definitely going to want to use a good clear coat to top it off since you'll be cleaning them wheels often and probably scrubbing pretty hard. I'd say wheels are one of the harder things to paint since they get so cruddy with chain lube, road grit and brake dust.

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Duplicolor makes basic color paints formulated for wheels.

If you're using 400 grit paper, you're going to need filler primer. I'd start with 800 and a power sander. Maybe 600. Basically, unless the paint is peeling badly, or there are gouges or something, you don't need all the paint off. It just needs to not look glossy anymore.

If the wheels aren't torn up badly at all, and you just want another color, get a red scotchbrite bad (yes like the kitchen pad) and knock all the gloss off. Then clean with isopropyl or an actual paint prep spray, rub it with a tack cloth (to get any last stuck dirt/dust) and prime and paint. If you do go to metal, a self etching primer works wonders. Start with a very fine dusting of paint, called your tack coat, then go on a little thicker. But still stay really, really, really thin. It should take three coats or so to completely cover everything. Then put 2 more or so just to make sure you didn't miss a spot. And pay really close attention to recoat windows. Lacquer is whenever. Enamel is within 1 hour or after 7 days. If you don't put your clear on top of the color in 1 hour, seriously wait 7 days.

As far as paint kinds... Power coating or urethane are your best bets. Enamel is durable (and available in a rattle can) but very sensitive to chemicals. Chain cleaner would likely strip it instantly. Acrylic is too hard, and will chip easily, but is also available in a rattle can and doesn't mind chemicals.

Unfortuneately, powder coating requires special tools, and urethane isn't available in a rattle can because you have to mix it. So you'd need a dedicated sprayer. Sunbelt rentals will rent a sprayer for $60 a day or so, and you'll need it for two days.

Once the clear is on and cured, wet sand with 1500, then 2000, then use a medium cut buffing compound with an orbital polisher, and then some wet polishing compound. I'd wax after that, but that's just me. Oh and turtle brand buffing compound, polish and wax all the way. Works just as good as the expensive stuff. There's a reason they've been around forever.

 

[gwalker93]

Really kinda depends on how much you're looking to spend. However you go about it, you'll want to use a primer to get it to stick and then a couple of coats.

Do you have a pressurized sprayer setup? Are you going to be going with the rattle can approach? Have you thought about colors? Definitely going to want to use a good clear coat to top it off since you'll be cleaning them wheels often and probably scrubbing pretty hard. I'd say wheels are one of the harder things to paint since they get so cruddy with chain lube, road grit and brake dust.

Thanks for the response! I currently do not have a pressurized sprayer, but I have a fairly big compressor that I think should work... All I would need to do is buy a pressurized sprayer. I think?.?.
As far as that goes do you prefer the pressurized sprayer more or less and if so why? Same with the Rattle can prefer more or less?
And for colors I just want to re-paint it black.
-Garrett

 

[DownrangeFuture]

HVLP sprayers usually need a pretty high CFM rating and the air needs to be absolutely dry or it will ruin your paint. No oil, no moisture. Not even regular humidity moisture. So, really make sure your compressor meets all the requirements.

My only issue with rattle cans is that you can't get urethane, which is what you'll really want for your wheels. That's just because urethane doesn't air cure, you mix in a hardener and it will cure in a vacuum even. So, they can't put it in a rattle can. Other than that, the difference is minimal.

But like I said, duplicolor makes a paint for wheels. They have white, black, and clear I think. That's it. But it would be a little better for wheels than regular rattle can paint. But it's still a rattle can.

The hardest and most important part is prep. Make sure everything is absolutely clean, and anything not getting painted is removed or taped. Removed is better because tape can pull up your paint, and it can not mask properly, letting paint go under the tape.

 

[gwalker93]

Alright man thanks for the info ill try out the spray can because my comressor doesnt have a de-humidifyer. Ill let you guys know how it goes and ill post some pics of the before and after.