OSO2K Setback Plate Install

afpreppie04

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I think you can do it yourself, it really is pretty easy. That was a great idea putting those 2 bends in it, I may do that myself now :D I kept the rod stock but it is at more of an angle, still works, but Hellgate's is prettier. If you decide to do it yourself and have questions just post up and I'm sure they'll get answered.
 

GConn

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I think you can do it yourself, it really is pretty easy. That was a great idea putting those 2 bends in it, I may do that myself now :D I kept the rod stock but it is at more of an angle, still works, but Hellgate's is prettier. If you decide to do it yourself and have questions just post up and I'm sure they'll get answered.

I don't know if this sounds stupid but I HAVE to ask:

For the less mechanically-inclined, can the rod stay beneath the frame somehow...is it impossible or just more difficult? I love the idea of moving the rear sets but I don't like leaving moving parts outside the frame. Thanks
 

afpreppie04

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The shift rod can stay behind the frame, but not easily. When you put the setback plates on it moves the rod out of the notch in the frame. That is why Hellgate, Mattcosta, and I used some washers to shim either the front or back. I think Oso2k got his behind the frame but there was welding involved. I was initially concerned about the rod being outside the frame too, but it hasn't been an issue in the month or so I've had it like that. Even though it is outside the frame it is still inside the actual rearset so it doesn't get in the way of your foot.

Here's how mine looks now, till I can use Hellgate's bending technique (although I don't have a fence handy....:D)

There was also someone on SBN working on a way to adapt another shift rod to work, but I don't think anything came of it.
 

GConn

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Thanks. Info is much appreciated. I was just wondering if I could bend the rod after it exits the notch and if that will work or not. But I guess I'll have to experiment when I have some extra time

The shift rod can stay behind the frame, but not easily. When you put the setback plates on it moves the rod out of the notch in the frame. That is why Hellgate, Mattcosta, and I used some washers to shim either the front or back. I think Oso2k got his behind the frame but there was welding involved. I was initially concerned about the rod being outside the frame too, but it hasn't been an issue in the month or so I've had it like that. Even though it is outside the frame it is still inside the actual rearset so it doesn't get in the way of your foot.

Here's how mine looks now, till I can use Hellgate's bending technique (although I don't have a fence handy....:D)

There was also someone on SBN working on a way to adapt another shift rod to work, but I don't think anything came of it.
 

Hellgate

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The good thing is the rod is very inexpensive. I ordered a replacement one for $4.95. When I do weekend tours I'll take the plates off and put the pegs back to the stock position. With the Corbin (lower than the stock seat) and the setback plates my 44 year old, three operation knees, are bent too much for long rides. For the track and squiding around they are fine.
 

oso2k

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I think Oso2k got his behind the frame but there was welding involved. I was initially concerned about the rod being outside the frame too, but it hasn't been an issue in the month or so I've had it like that. Even though it is outside the frame it is still inside the actual rearset so it doesn't get in the way of your foot.

I don't have my rod outside my frame but my customizer cut the shift peg assembly at the shift rod ball joint mount, flipped it, and rewelded it. The shift rod sits outside the frame.

9930d1225996449-fz6-rearset-set-back-plates-sale-shift-side.jpg
 

Hellgate

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Just a quick update. The setback plates worked great on the track. No problems at all. Smooth shifts and no peg dragging at all. These are an excellent solution for those who don't wish to shell out big dollars for rearsets.

This mod is a very good complement for those who have changed to a lower handle bar. With the rearsets your hips will rotate forward to match the forward lean that your upper body gets from the lower handlebars.
 

opds9091

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Someone please help. I was going to do the set-plates today. I went to LOWE'S, HOME-DEPOT, ACE and i could not find the hardware need to do the mod. I know that the brake side needs nothing, being that the original is reused. The new hardware is used for the shifter side. I can't find the BOLTS (4), NY-LOCKS NUTS (4) and the 8 WASHERS. Anyone have a clue where i can look, or can find them for me and i will send the money to you. I was so pumped to do this and now i can't.
The original hardware can't be used on the shifter side? Help, anyone..:spank:
 

Bagzter

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I've done ordered myself some, a more affordable option to expensive rear sets, theres a recession on you know!!:rolleyes:

many thanks to Louis.

Will post pics once they are on, hopefully the R1 style hugger would have arrived and will be fitted so i can kill 2 birds with one stone with dragging my camera out:thumbup:
 

Bagzter

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Someone please help. I was going to do the set-plates today. I went to LOWE'S, HOME-DEPOT, ACE and i could not find the hardware need to do the mod. I know that the brake side needs nothing, being that the original is reused. The new hardware is used for the shifter side. I can't find the BOLTS (4), NY-LOCKS NUTS (4) and the 8 WASHERS. Anyone have a clue where i can look, or can find them for me and i will send the money to you. I was so pumped to do this and now i can't.
The original hardware can't be used on the shifter side? Help, anyone..:spank:

any good auto parts shop, auto repair shop should carry the required nuts bolts etc. :thumbup:
 

Dennis in NH

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Someone please help. I was going to do the set-plates today. I went to LOWE'S, HOME-DEPOT, ACE and i could not find the hardware need to do the mod. I know that the brake side needs nothing, being that the original is reused. The new hardware is used for the shifter side. I can't find the BOLTS (4), NY-LOCKS NUTS (4) and the 8 WASHERS. Anyone have a clue where i can look, or can find them for me and i will send the money to you. I was so pumped to do this and now i can't.
The original hardware can't be used on the shifter side? Help, anyone..:spank:

I went to Ace Hardware and they had everything and I got stainless.

Dennis
 

Dennis in NH

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I got these installed and have had them a few hundred miles. So far, they seem pretty good. The plates seem to be quality stuff; very strong/stiff. Riding position feels more aggressive and I think hanging off feels better (totally subjective but still felt good). Oh, and now I have an interesting time :D getting the kick stand down because the rearset is in the way -- but in time, I'll adapt. Either way, it's easy to swap back if you don't like them -- plus, I find them to have a high value to price ratio. Thanks OSO2K!

I shimmed the shifter side setback plate (where it bolts to the bike) with 5 washers; I actually measured the OEM bolt to see how far it goes into the frame of the bike and it goes almost to the end with the 5 washers. I tried to do the shimming via the bolts that hold the rearset to the setback plate and that was not stable and flexed a lot (and make things feel like crap -- i.e., no way I'm doing that).

I put the shift rod on (it's at an angle but still works ok) and DID NOT have to bend it. Bending it would've made shift-rod/shifter-height adjustment a little tricky. I understand that the shift rod outside of frame leaves the shift rod open to damage in a left side tip over :eek:. However, the shift rod is near a crash bobbin and a rearset that sticks out more and I hope those will hit first. Either way, I ordered a new shift rod (crappy price of about $6.50 from a local dealer) anyway.

I used stainless steel from Ace Hardware. And although the original instructions calls for 3/8" bolts; you really need 5/16" as 3/8" WILL NOT FIT! For best results, just bring the setback plates with you to the hardware store and ensure the bolts fit before leaving :D.

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Dennis
 

Hellgate

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Looks great Dennis! Makes a big difference in position. when I used these during a track day I didn't drag peg once.

I'll update my post with the correct bolt size, thanks for posting that.
 

Dennis in NH

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Looks great Dennis! Makes a big difference in position. when I used these during a track day I didn't drag peg once.

I'll update my post with the correct bolt size, thanks for posting that.

And thank you for posting this as I never would've tried it or known the possibility exists without your instructions. It seemed at first such a difficult/complicated task only to find it was relatively simple although not without it's puzzles (e.g., shift rod placement).

Dennis
 

rickthefix

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I'm a little late on these posts, but am interested in a set of the set-back plates. If a template was available, I could make my own as well.
Also, where would the best place be to acquire some FZ1 handlebars & what year(s) would be the best for my 07 FZ6? Would there need to be any mod's for the FZ1 bars?
TIA,
Rick
 

oso2k

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I'm a little late on these posts, but am interested in a set of the set-back plates. If a template was available, I could make my own as well.
Also, where would the best place be to acquire some FZ1 handlebars & what year(s) would be the best for my 07 FZ6? Would there need to be any mod's for the FZ1 bars?
TIA,
Rick

Setback plates: I'll respond to your PM in a sec.

Handlebars: See my Compatibility Chart in my sig.
 

js25

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So I ordered a set from oso2k (thanks!) and just finished installing it. I was weak and couldn't bend the rod lol. So I had to use the shim method in the end. But it's all good. After messing with it for hours... I no longer cared if the rod touches a bit here or there. LOL. BTW did anyone notice that one end of the shift rod is M6, but other end that connects to the lever is some mysterious screw pattern?
 

ctbandit

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So I didn't have a proper vise and I had to improvise with some vise grips and some heavy machinery that i could vise grip the rod to. Let's just say it took me over 2 hrs of fiddling with the rod bend to get it to something workable (no shimming). They're on there now but my shift rod looks like ass. If I had to do it again I'd either spring for the ottimotto or skip the setback plates altogether. Just my experience. They do put you in a nice position, not too aggressive but better suited for the sporty ride.
 
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