FZ6 Rearset Set Back Plates For Sale

oso2k

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As some of you may know, I had some custom set back plates fabbed up by my local shop (see Pic 1). The goal is to get the rearset far enough away from the ground to make racing around a more comfortable (no scrapping pegs or peg feelers or toes, have feet in a better position so that weight shifting is easier). Well, as happy as I was with their function, they weren't very pretty and kind of stuck out like a sore thumb on my project track bike (See Pic 2 and Pic 3). And I had promised to many of you, that I would try my best to get a quote to have them fabbed up nice and pretty. Some of you have even offered to help me get them fabbed up. I went & finally took my set back plates to a local fabrication shop. Now I have pretty sets to offer to all my friends here. :D BTW, these compare (cost-wise) very favorably to Rizoma Rearsets which go for over $400 USD and sell used for well over $200 USD. The pricing is below as is the quoted drawing. The set back is about 1.75" and the rise 1.375".

***EDIT-20170814***
SOLD OUT, FOREVER. Thanks to everyone who shared this journey. :D

**NEW DESIGN**
Clear Anodized Set Back Plates (Silver in color)
$-- USD (Shipping included)

Black Anodized Set Back Plates
$-- USD (Shipping included)

Add $5 for shipping outside of the US 48.
==============

Thanks to hellgate, mattcosta7, afpreppie for coming up with the new official install method.

**************

A quick word about how the new design works. All aluminum Left-to-right (Pic 4 is of the left Set Back Plate), the first 2 vertical holes receive the OEM bolts and washers and mount to the frame mount holes. The next hole (just below the weight saving cut-out trapezoid) is for the stabilizer peg that protrude from the frame (normally, this peg is received by the rearset assembly). The next 2 smaller, vertical holes are threaded to receive bolts (8mm, 1.25 pitch) and will form the new mount points for the rearset assembly. The last hole is actually a marker for a stabilizer pin to be pressed into the Set Back Plate (same function as the peg from the frame). You will need to modify your shifter rod to site outside the frame to use these Set Back Plates but there have been quite a few people who have already done this. This is usually done to flip their shift pattern to "GP Style Shifting" (1 Up, 5 Down). I have my rod modified but I still have "Standard Shifting" (1 Down, 5 Up).

You'll need the following hardware to mount them: 4 qty 8mm x 25mm x 1.25 pitch bolts (or the OEM rearset bolts maybe minus the washers, dunno; these mount at the frame), 4 qty 8mm x 30mm x 1.25 pitch bolts for the rearset mounting to the set back plates, and 4 qty 8mm nuts & washers for the back side of the set back plate. Fit is tight and the stabilizer dowel is a little tall in the set back plate. You can fit it w/o grinding it down. I used 8mm x 50mm x 1.25 pitch on the rearset mount and they're a little long but I wanted to see how much clearance you might have. I'd recommend not going any longer than 8mm x 45mm x 1.25 if you have to buy a longer bolt. The lower one is pretty close to the chain.

Please also follow Hellgate's or mattcosta7/afrpreppie's install method. It's very simple and at worst requires a bend in the OEM shift rod in a simple vise.
Hellgate's method http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/10334-oso2k-setback-plate-install.html

mattcosta7/afrpreppie's http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/9480-setback-plates-installed-gp-shift-swap.html

IMG_2171.jpg
 
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oso2k

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I got these coming and a track day at the end of March. I was promised to have these in "a little over two weeks" this past Tuesday. I think people will be happy when they see them. The shop I went to makes Spacecraft parts for JPL/NASA (I work for JPL in IT). They made several things that are on the Mars Rovers (but most of that was titanium).

BTW, I have 3 black sets reserved for the following people:
mattvanzand@sbn
hellgate@sbn
vokal389

If this ratio keeps up, I'll make the order 6:14 (silver:black) and drop the price of the black to $67.50...so if you know anybody interested in a set of black, get them to pick up a set. Shipping is also gonna be lower but I don't know how much yet.
 

Hellgate

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Hey Louis,

Thanks again for coordianting this, I know it takes a lot of work and time.

Quick question. The brake side is clear cut on how it goes together, how about the shifter side? Will I need a longer actuator rod and a different clamp assembly for the shift rod? Or will the stock one work? I would prefer to keep the stock shifting pattern and not have to go GP style...I too much of a 'tard to change at this point in my life!

Thanks again! :thumbup:
 

oso2k

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Hey Louis,

Thanks again for coordianting this, I know it takes a lot of work and time.

Quick question. The brake side is clear cut on how it goes together, how about the shifter side? Will I need a longer actuator rod and a different clamp assembly for the shift rod? Or will the stock one work? I would prefer to keep the stock shifting pattern and not have to go GP style...I too much of a 'tard to change at this point in my life!

Thanks again! :thumbup:

Here's a pic of my shifter peg and rod. OEM rod looks fine. My customizer flipped the rod/peg hinge though and then rewelded so that the rod runs outside the frame. To be honest, I don't know if that is actually necessary. My gut feeling is that it isn't. I think you can get away with just flipping the peg rod mount from inside to outside. I'll look Ron Ayers and then report back.
 

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Here's a pic of my shifter peg and rod. OEM rod looks fine. My customizer flipped the rod/peg hinge though and then rewelded so that the rod runs outside the frame. To be honest, I don't know if that is actually necessary. My gut feeling is that it isn't. I think you can get away with just flipping the peg rod mount from inside to outside. I'll look Ron Ayers and then report back.

I looks like there are two ball bearings (at the engine and at the pedal). Looks like you can unscrew the clamp at the engine shift rod, unscrew the rod from the clamp and the pedal, flip the clamp, screw the rod back to the clamp and pedal, and screw the clamp back to the engine shift rod.
 

oso2k

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Got a message earlier that a prototype was ready.

Here are some pics of the test fit...he was pretty close but he's changing the design slightly to better use the support already in the frame and in the peg assembly. I also asked about making some aluminum pegs (hinges "preflipped". He said he'll do that once I gets these plates done. I might get another prototype next week.

Gawd these suckers were light. The original steel ones were a little more than a couple pounds each. These felt like less than a pound each (maybe even a half pound).
 

Hellgate

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Got a message earlier that a prototype was ready.

Here are some pics of the test fit...he was pretty close but he's changing the design slightly to better use the support already in the frame and in the peg assembly. I also asked about making some aluminum pegs (hinges "preflipped". He said he'll do that once I gets these plates done. I might get another prototype next week.

Gawd these suckers were light. The original steel ones were a little more than a couple pounds each. These felt like less than a pound each (maybe even a half pound).

Very cool! Another question, yeah I know..., it is possible to mount the rear sets to the inside of the bracket instead of to the outside? That would eliminate the "stacking" of the parts and keep the actuator rods in line. What do you think?
 

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Very cool! Another question, yeah I know..., it is possible to mount the rear sets to the inside of the bracket instead of to the outside? That would eliminate the "stacking" of the parts and keep the actuator rods in line. What do you think?

That may be possible. But then you lose the extra stability that the pressed dowel gives you. I also don't know what clearance issues there may be in having them places there. I'm concerned about the swingarm if they mounted on the inside.
 

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Well, I took delivery of a second prototype on Saturday. A couple more minor changes. However, I'm getting 13 black sets and 7 silver sets in about a week to a week & a half. wavex, be ready to test. ;) I'm also working getting the a "flipped" shifter pedal fabbed up. If they're inexpensive enough, I'll roll it into the cost of the set back plates. But I'm expecting them to cost $10-$15. In any case, they would be shipped for free along with your set back plates.
 

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Current orders pending for these set back plates.

Silver:
oso2k
pitts@SBN
redoliander@SBN

Black:
mattvanzand@SBN
hellgate@SBN
vokal389
wavex@SBN
killbane83@SBN
 

oso2k

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I got a call from the fab shop yesterday and they were able to fab up 18 sets with the material they bought for the job (2 less than I ordered). 12 will be black, 6 will be silver. AFAIK, they black ones got sent to the anodizer yesteday so technically, the silver ones should be ready....Hmm. Let me see if I can go pick them up.
 

oso2k

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Current orders pending for these set back plates.

Silver:
oso2k
pitts@SBN
redoliander@SBN
jcmathis@SBN

Black:
mattvanzand@SBN
hellgate@SBN
vokal389
wavex@SBN
killbane83@SBN
 

oso2k

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They're done! I'm going to pick them up right now! I'll post pics this afternoon.

Again, here are my current tentative buyers.

Silver:
oso2k@SBN
pitts@SBN
redoliander@SBN
jcmathis@SBN
kimbo59@SBN

Black:
mattvanzand@SBN
hellgate@SBN
vokal389
wavex@SBN
killbane83@SBN
 

oso2k

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BTW, all told it's $75 shipped to you. When you're ready to pay, send me a PM and I'll send you back my PayPal address.
 

oso2k

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Here's a few pics of my set back plates installed. After inspecting every set, some of them have some minor scratches on them. :/ Doesn't affect their form or function. Most of those that do have scratches, they're at least on the backside. Those that have scratches on front side, their marks are barely noticeable once they're mounted. I'll be selling those sets which are cleanest first. So first come, first served. The sets I installed on my bike have a slight purplish tint to them that you can sort of see in the pic. They're the only set that came out that way. A fab buddy said that there may have been some diechem (sp? - sounds like die-chem as in chemical) leftover. I don't mind; they still look great place the pegs right where I want them. And they are the only sets that have that purplish tint.

Basically, I'm selling these as-is. If everybody who has told me they want them actually buys them, I'll sell out of the silver and there will be just a few left over of the black. 2 black sets are already on their way and I'm gonna locally deliver 2 more black sets. wavex, Poutanen@SBN, vokal389, and Hellgate have agreed to help me figure out the shift rod issue.

You'll need the following hardware to mount them: 4 qty 8mm x 25mm x 1.25 pitch bolts (or the OEM rearset bolts maybe minus the washers, dunno; these mount at the frame), 4 qty 8mm x 30mm x 1.25 pitch bolts for the rearset mounting to the set back plates, and 4 qty 8mm nuts & washers for the back side of the set back plate. Fit is tight and the stabilizer dowel is a little tall in the set back plate. You can fit it w/o grinding it down. I used 8mm x 50mm x 1.25 pitch on the rearset mount and they're a little long but I wanted to see how much clearance you might have. I'd recommend not going any longer than 8mm x 45mm x 1.25 if you have to buy a longer bolt. The lower one is pretty close to the chain.
 

oso2k

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So 4 set back plate sets have been sold off and I have mine installed (10 black pairs left, 3 silver pairs left). These people have told me they had an interest at one point or another but have not paid.

Silver:
pitts@SBN
jcmathis@SBN
kimbo59@SBN

Black:
mattvanzand@SBN
vokal389
killbane83@SBN
 
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