Only getting about 13.4v @ 2.5k rpms

[johnnyg]

So the last couple of weeks I've noticed that my headlights significantly dim in time with my blinkers, it's particularly noticeable at night. Sometimes it seems like my idle revs are bouncing in time with the blinkers too. I'd expect a little dimming, but I feel like the blinkers shouldn't be drawing that much juice?

Also not entirely sure if this is related but every now and then the engine will sputter a bit, it seems like it happens when I'm trying to maintain constant speed, and it's at specific gears/rpms, ie 4k in 6th gear. It's a little unnerving when I'm just trying to hold speed on the highway, or do a low speed turn through an intersection...

The only electrical related mods I've made are a 12v outlet to my Replay XD camera (which I unplugged for the tests below), and a Backoff XP brake light modulator (which I only added a few days ago, these symptoms predate it).

So I've poked around at this thread http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/53137-bike-sputters-1k-2k.html and this post http://www.600riders.com/forum/showpost.php?p=579412 but I'm at the limit of my diagnostic abilities...

When the key is switched off there's 12.8v across the battery terminals. It dips down to 11v when I switch the key on. Then it dips down to 8-10v while starting. When the engine is idling it's back around 12.8v, and then when I rev up to 2.5k-4k rpms the voltage only ever gets up to 13.4v, so that's low, right?

I also checked the RR plug, and got the expected .2-.3 ohms between the white stator wires, and no connectivity between each stator wire and the black ground wire.

Been lurking a while, you guys seem like smart fellas, any ideas?

 

[Marthy]

How old is the battery? It should charge 14.0 (fz6r)

8-10V at cranking is not much... if the battery is more than 2-3 yo, change it.

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[johnnyg]

Yeah not sure how old the battery is, I forget if the previous owner told me. Maybe that'll be the next step

 

[Motogiro]

Batteries can sulfate and not return to there designed voltage. This can keep a higher current requirement from the charging system because it will not allow the voltage to be reached this will naturally tax your charging system.

Charge the battery and have it load tested. Most load testers today do not actually load the battery but instead calculate what the dept of charge is and voltage for comparison verse time.

I agree the battery is probably bad but you should test it to be sure.

 

[johnnyg]

Any tips for load testing a battery? I had it on a tender all winter that's supposed to tell me if the battery is bad, but I don't know how good that test is, maybe when I have time this weekend I'll pull the battery and see what the tender says... It's a DelTran Battery Tender Junior

Also thanks bunches for the tips!

 

[FinalImpact]

Something else to consider;
Just because the voltage never comes above 13.5, it may be that your battery is so depleted that its taking all the current. A dead battery will show a low voltage from the a test at 3500 RPM. A fully charged battery will show a higher voltage as its not using the energy from the charging system. Its in a float state.

If it were mine this is what I'd do. Remove the battery, connect a headlamp to it and drain it to about 7.5 volts. No more. Charge it with a REAL charger at a rate of 1.5 amps for 5 ~ 7 hrs and then see how it does. This would partially de-sulfate it and now put it on your trickle charger to obtain float voltage ~ 14.3 volts or so ~ 6 hrs to completely top it off.

While the battery is out pull the main harness from the top of the battery and inspect all connections - pulling fuses too. Just to make sure nothing strange is going on.

 

[Motogiro]

Any tips for load testing a battery? I had it on a tender all winter that's supposed to tell me if the battery is bad, but I don't know how good that test is, maybe when I have time this weekend I'll pull the battery and see what the tender says... It's a DelTran Battery Tender Junior

Also thanks bunches for the tips!

Your DelTran should bring the battery to a full charge and go into maintain mode.

I don't have a spec. for load testing a motorcycle battery but here's a cheap one that I'll probably order this week.. 100 Amp Digital Battery Load and Charging Tester: BatteryMart.com

 

[Motogiro]

Something else to consider;
Just because the voltage never comes above 13.5, it may be that your battery is so depleted that its taking all the current. A dead battery will show a low voltage from the a test at 3500 RPM. A fully charged battery will show a higher voltage as its not using the energy from the charging system. Its in a float state.

If it were mine this is what I'd do. Remove the battery, connect a headlamp to it and drain it to about 7.5 volts. No more. Charge it with a REAL charger at a rate of 1.5 amps for 5 ~ 7 hrs and then see how it does. This would partially de-sulfate it and now put it on your trickle charger to obtain float voltage ~ 14.3 volts or so ~ 6 hrs to completely top it off.

While the battery is out pull the main harness from the top of the battery and inspect all connections - pulling fuses too. Just to make sure nothing strange is going on.

Zackly! ^^^^^^^^^^:rockon:

 

[agf]

Just replaced my battery and the supplier partially charged it. Had it on trickle for about 6 hours til it came up to float. boy it turns over the motor fast!!!
Just wondering if I put the old battery on "recovery" if that should bring it back to life at least as a spare in the cupboard just in case????

 

[Marthy]

Just replaced my battery and the supplier partially charged it. Had it on trickle for about 6 hours til it came up to float. boy it turns over the motor fast!!!
Just wondering if I put the old battery on "recovery" if that should bring it back to life at least as a spare in the cupboard just in case????

If it wasn't good enough now it won't get any better later... recycle.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

That cranking voltage is very low. After speaking with a Yuasa Tech, he preferred to see no less than 10 volts cranking. My highest voltage at 5,000 RPM was 13.95 volts or so...

*I did Randy's procedure about 2 months ago but didn't drain down to the depth of 7.5 volts but to 11.5 volts (as initiailly recommended). Battery still hooked up in the bike, HD fan blowing, battery temp monitored with a lazer temp gun monitoring.

I drained it down to 11.5 volts leaving ALL THE LIGHTS ON (engine off), took about 20 minutes while monitoring with a volt meter.

Recharged using a C-Tek charger (in automotive mode-3.3 amp). Battery was still in the bike-full tank). Seemed to help quite a bit, No dash light dimming until last week- just a little. I suspect a deeper discharge, would work better, just make sure your charger will recognize it (some won't when the battery is under a certain voltage)



After reading about the Optimate 6 desulfator / charger, I ended up buying one. This was before putting an actual old style, heating coil load tester on the battery.

Two days ago, (once I got my new air filter) and had the tank run almost empty, I pulled the battery (just over 3 years, 10,000 miles old) and load tested it.

It passed with flying colors (I have a brand new one waiting to be filled). 210 CCA, BTW...

Wether the Optimate, while hooked up helped, time will tell. Its should be noted for the Optimate, it will desulfate harder and deeper when DISCONNECTED from the bikes electronics (so it doesn't damage anything).

NOTE: I have handlebar riser / set backs which does NOT allow the tank to be just tilted back (it hits the set backs) so the tank has to be completly un-bolted, moved back an inch or so and then the rear bolt reinstalled with a "tank stick" (or removed all together). Much easier almost empty than full..

 

[agf]

If it wasn't good enough now it won't get any better later... recycle.

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thats the fairest and most pragmatic advice, I like your thinking

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your DelTran should bring the battery to a full charge and go into maintain mode.

I don't have a spec. for load testing a motorcycle battery but here's a cheap on that I'll probably order this week.. 100 Amp Digital Battery Load and Charging Tester: BatteryMart.com

The alternate one on that site, with the needle (vs digital) is what I have but a Schumacher brand:

Battery Load Tester: BatteryMart.com


For those un-familiar, there's a scale for the CCA for different sized batteries, "Good, weak, bad". Just look across at where the needle lands with the load on the battery (no more than 10 seconds). The load is actual heating coils, (and it WILL GET VERY HOT)..

(Double click to enlarge) 210 CCA is the standard size battery for the FZ6...

 

[FinalImpact]

FWIW: my bike is an 08 and it has the original battery in it. During the 4 months of winter I park it and leave it (no charging at all).

Cranking voltage:
After sitting for 30 days the cranking voltage dipped to ~9.0V. This is not ideal but par for the course with the age of the battery. Since I've been riding it cranks more swiftly so I should retest. In short, it would be wise to replace it for the start of 2015 riding season. Also - it was in the mid 40°F that day so that wasn't in its favor (9.0V cranking).

^^ Also after sitting for that 1 month the static no load voltage was 12.9V. Two years ago it was 12.99v after sitting for 3 months.

Just an observation but it seems there are allot of folks with fancy "hands free MAINTENANCE free" chargers that have the bulk of the battery issues??? :don'tknow::don'tknow:

 

[Marthy]

Heat here is a killer for batteries. In my cages I barely average 2-3 year. It work... until it just die. The last battery I change in my zuki was in for 2 years. I stop to the shop for 5 min and got back in the car... nothing. Not even a drrrrrrr from the solenoid.

On the 6R I was able to put about 3.5 years on it. But the last 4 months I had to bump start it once in a while.

If the V get too low during cranking the ECU won't have enough juice to function. On the FAtlantic, anything under 9V the car wasn't starting.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Heat here is a killer for batteries. In my cages I barely average 2-3 year. It work... until it just die. The last battery I change in my zuki was in for 2 years. I stop to the shop for 5 min and got back in the car... nothing. Not even a drrrrrrr from the solenoid.

On the 6R I was able to put about 3.5 years on it. But the last 4 months I had to bump start it once in a while.

If the V get too low during cranking the ECU won't have enough juice to function. On the FAtlantic, anything under 9V the car wasn't starting.

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My FJR went thru a new battery every THREE YEARS damn near to the day, (the heat from the Gen I didn't help any either).

I have to agree that with the heat down here, three years of year round riding, (and the battery atop the hot engine) takes it toll. There is no down time to speak of. Parking the bike several months of the year, in cooler (not freezing) weather will of course, let the battery last longer.

Prior to this battery, my FZ was still starting with a load voltage below 7 volts.

8 years is a long time! :thumbup:

 

[johnnyg]

Haha, took the battery to OReilly and their tester said the battery was bad after about 10 seconds, so I guess my next step is to pick up a new battery!

 

[johnnyg]

Finally had time tonight to put in a new Motobatt AGM MBT12B4 battery and I'm getting the expected voltages now, guess it's time for a test ride! :rockon:

Thanks team!

 

[FinalImpact]

Finally had time tonight to put in a new Motobatt AGM MBT12B4 battery and I'm getting the expected voltages now, guess it's time for a test ride! :rockon:

Thanks team!

After riding for a bit a favor please?!?

After sitting for at least an hour, take a voltage reading off the battery. Then turn the key on, and then fire it off and see how low a new battery gets when cranking.

Sitting V =
Key on V =
Cranking V =
Idle V =
2500 RPM V =

When ever you get around to it! tks

 

[agf]

New battery about 10 days ago
Sitting cold V 12.97
Key on V 12.65
Priming V 12.45
Cranking V 10.72
Cold idle V 14.05
2500-3000 rpm V 14.15~14.18


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