No Start, Fuel Pump Won't Prime?

[FZSexy]

Hi Guys and Girls :welcome:

I will try to make this short as possible. My bike has had minor starting issues from the time I bought it two years ago. The fuel pump always primed but sometimes I would have to open the throttle to get it started, and occasionally it would start from cold and just shut off. Always gets on the road and runs beautifully, however.

Around two months ago it began to bog down occasionally, though. It could happen in any gear and speed, but more so in lower gear and accelerating somewhat aggressively. However at higher speeds of 80-90mph with steady throttle it has bogged down somewhat, as if the throttle had been closed or fuel was not reaching where it should. IOW I could feel the bike "lurch and jerk" and feel and see the bike lose speed. But I would let up on the throttle a bit, give it a bit more gas, and things got back to normal. I am not sure if my throttle input had anything to do with that. At around 5000-6000rpm yesterday it bogged down a couple times and i engaged the clutch. Rpms dropped to normal, but the bike did not stall. The bike has stalled in traffic a few times over the last couple months, though. I would pull over and turn the ignition on and off a few times and the bike would start and ride normally.

Last few weeks when experiencing the issue the fuel pump will not initially prime, though. Sometimes several tries until it does. Yesterday morning when i got to work the bike stalled when i entered the driveway. I clutched in and restarted it. After work a rode a mile, shut the bike off for a few minutes, got back on, and the bike stalled three or more times within a mile, fuel pump not priming for most of the attempted restarts. When it did restart it started well most of the time. Finally it would just "click" a bit when attempting to start it and when it did start it would die a second or two later. Now, a day later, the fuel pump will not prime from cold, period. THAT has never happened before.

The bike goes to the shop tomorrow and I do not want to go in completely cold, as I am not mechanically or technically inclined when it comes to bikes. So I come here to ask what should the shop look for? Or perhaps what should I ask them to look for or suspect, and what should I expect them to check first? I would think the fuel system, but who knows? What about faulty kill switches and what not?

The bike recently underwent a full service with new OEM battery, sans valve adjustment. Which I doubt is the culprit as its having other symptoms and rides and runs very well.

Thanks for the advisement, everyone!! :rockon:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like your RED KILL SWITCH has a bad connection in it. (which is NOT un-common at all). Its the same as pushing the switch off, no fuel pump, intermediate connection... Do you use it often?

You can bypass it to test it, here's a link and some pic's:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty-2.html?highlight=kill+switch (post #14 specifically)


Re the ride-ability issue, sounds like a dirty fuel system.. You might try some Yamaha RING FREE. Very popular in the marine world, works extremely well IME with the boat and ALL my gas powered machines(FZ ALWAYS has it in it): Its mixed at 1oz per 10 gallons but I'll run it at twice that for very dirty systems without issues. It will take a couple of tanks running it. Its NOT cheap, about $22.00 for a small bottle but lasts quite awhile and IME, is way better than Seafoam or Techtron..

If the spark plugs have NOT been changed within spec's, CHANGE THEM. I just had similar issues with my Yamaha OB engine, NEW spark plugs fixed what I thought was going to be a major issue...

Purchase at a Yamaha marine dealer or cheaper on-line if you shop about. Amazon had some good deals on it..

https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/details/ring-free-plus?b=Search&d=34

 

[FinalImpact]

First off; charge that newer battery before taking it in and check that its connections are tight.

Agree that the kill switch is suspect but it doesn't explain the past issues. In 25,000 miles i think mine has stalled (turned itself off) once. Every other time its me turning the key Off!

Q? At say 20, 30, & 40 mph what RPM are you at **most typically**....
What is the warm idle speed?
How many miles on the plugs and have you ever tried fuel from a different source? Many don't agree on this but IMO NOT ALL fuel burns as well and produces reliable operation for all vehicles!

Lastly; what do you about the bikes past? Who maintained it?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just re-reading the first part of your post.

When the bike is started dead cold, are the RPM's approx 2-300 ABOVE regular operating temp????

Warm idle should be roughly 1,300, expect 1,500 or so starting cold.

 

[FZSexy]

thanks guys. i been working so long i never made it back!

however i did research a little more AFTER i made this thread and came across an older one with the kill switch issue and a little "test" to perform by rocking the switch back and forth

long story short....it was the switch. i played with it and it was obviously affecting start up. after running the bike for three minutes i touched the switch and the bike died. i would turn on the ignition and the fuel pump would not prime. i would "rock" the switch midway through the "prime time" and the fuel pump would begin to prime. release my finger from the switch and the pump would cease to prime. stuff like that

the tow cost more than the repair. my mechanic said the wiring and things were badly corroded.he rewired things, soldered, pretty much rebuilt it he said. sort of. said i def won't have this sort of prob again, but don't get the bike wet

$69. not bad imo. because riding truly is priceless

thanks guys!!:thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

thanks guys. i been working so long i never made it back!

however i did research a little more AFTER i made this thread and came across an older one with the kill switch issue and a little "test" to perform by rocking the switch back and forth

long story short....it was the switch. i played with it and it was obviously affecting start up. after running the bike for three minutes i touched the switch and the bike died. i would turn on the ignition and the fuel pump would not prime. i would "rock" the switch midway through the "prime time" and the fuel pump would begin to prime. release my finger from the switch and the pump would cease to prime. stuff like that

the tow cost more than the repair. my mechanic said the wiring and things were badly corroded.he rewired things, soldered, pretty much rebuilt it he said. sort of. said i def won't have this sort of prob again,[B] but don't get the bike wet[/B]

$69. not bad imo. because riding truly is priceless

thanks guys!!:thumbup:

Glad you got it fixed but;

I don't know what: "DON'T GET THE BIKE WET" is about. That switch has rarely been fixed, a full replacement is the normal fix for it.

If he soldiered up/repaired some other wiring, that's fine, BUT it should be heat shrunk, sealed, etc.

IMO, NOT to get the bike wet, DOES NOT CUT IT,. Should you be on the interstate, get caught by a passing shower, is the engine going to die in rush hour traffic? (NOT good).


Did you read the link in post #2? It addressed the RED KILL SWITCH and symptoms specifically.


And BTW, if you can break the habit, USE THE KEY, not the kill switch(except for emergencies) ...

 

[FZSexy]

Glad you got it fixed but;

I don't know what: "DON'T GET THE BIKE WET" is about. That switch has rarely been fixed, a full replacement is the normal fix for it.

If he soldiered up/repaired some other wiring, that's fine, BUT it should be heat shrunk, sealed, etc.

IMO, NOT to get the bike wet, DOES NOT CUT IT,. Should you be on the interstate, get caught by a passing shower, is the engine going to die in rush hour traffic? (NOT good).


Did you read the link in post #2? It addressed the RED KILL SWITCH and symptoms specifically.


And BTW, if you can break the habit, USE THE KEY, not the kill switch(except for emergencies) ...

i never use the kill switch, i don't like it. always the key. and the guy always says don't get the bike wet. he is not a fan of getting bikes wet if you don't have to. he says not to ride in the rain, too. he says it can cause some problems / issues

i trust his fix. if the bike runs, it runs i figure. he could have replaced it or some other, but he did not. so lets hope its good

 

[payneib]

the guy always says don't get the bike wet. he is not a fan of getting bikes wet if you don't have to. he says not to ride in the rain, too. he says it can cause some problems / issues

He instantly discredits himself as a bike mechanic with that.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The only thing that I can agree with, with your mechanics thinking, is water, can cause corrosion to metal/wiring connectors, etc, over time.

To NOT ride in the rain (or get stuck in the rain) is silly...

With that said, any electrical connectors, light bulb sockets, battery terminals, etc, I'll put dielectric grease on the connector, bulb end, etc. It keeps moisture out (corrosion too) and will eliminate virtually most (if not all) contact issues.

Re the rest of the bike, washing. waxing, general maintenance, preventive maintenance, goes a LONG way to longevity...



Or, you could always put the bike in storage, up on blocks, cover it and it'll last forever!!!! JK but true..

 

[FZSexy]

He instantly discredits himself as a bike mechanic with that.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

well, i doubt that. he rides thousands of miles every year through all kinds of wet and fixes his bikes on the side of the road in the Peruvian jungles. or Alaskan wilderness. or where ever the hell he goes?

anywho, he just isn't a big fan of getting things wet unless need be. "avoid it if you can" he says. and why not? if you can. in fact he is one of the most knowledgeable people i've ever met when it comes to all kinds of bikes. my bike is running great, no issues with his fix whatsoever. or his "advice"