New to maintenance: are my rear brake pads supposed to be touching like this?

[phario]

This is from a 2011 FZ6 S2. I noticed that the rear brake pads rub against the disk. I can hear the rubbing when the bike is moved in neutral, but it generally rolls OK. I think that I've been riding it like this for at least a few weeks.

Is this a problem? I'd like to remove the brake pads and calipers to clean them out. I'm not sure whether this is a simple process or a complicated one. Is it just a matter of removing the brake caliper first via two bolts and then a single bolt to the master cylinder, and then I can get at the pads? Anything to be careful about?

Same question for the front brake caliper.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

This is from a 2011 FZ6 S2. I noticed that the rear brake pads rub against the disk. I can hear the rubbing when the bike is moved in neutral, but it generally rolls OK. I think that I've been riding it like this for at least a few weeks.

Is this a problem? I'd like to remove the brake pads and calipers to clean them out. I'm not sure whether this is a simple process or a complicated one. Is it just a matter of removing the brake caliper first via two bolts and then a single bolt to the master cylinder, and then I can get at the pads? Anything to be careful about?

Same question for the front brake caliper.

This forum is generally for the 04-09 FZ' as they changed a bit in 2010.

You rear brake looks the same as the earlier models. There will be some rubbing with all pads and discs.

To see if its dragging excessively, go for a ride, 10-15 minutes, maybe 50 MPH and stop with the FRONT BRAKES ONLY.
Carefully feel the rear disc. it should barely be warm to cool. If its HOT, its dragging and needs maintenance.

Same procedure for the front.. You appear to have plenty of brake material on the one pad(what we can see), but is kinda nasty).

That rear brake, the TWO main bolts allow the assembly to "float" and center itself. You should clean those bolts and the orifices they go in and re-grease with
brake specific grease.

There is a pin at the rear of the pads that keep them in place.

If you pull the caliper off, gently rock the caliper and lift it off.

Once its off, clean any grit off the piston with brake cleaner and a tooth brush. You can pump the piston
out some with the rear brake lever (not to far) t clean further grit. Don't push the piston back in if that piston is nasty/dirty.

I'd suggest looking up your bike on say Partzilla and look up the specific parts your working on. Even without the manual, the parts break down
give you a very good idea of what's where, assembly, etc..

General info: 2011 FZ6R - FZ6RAO Yamaha Motorcycle Parts

Rear brake: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2011 FZ6R - FZ6RAO REAR BRAKE CALIPER Diagram

Ft brake: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2011 FZ6R - FZ6RAO FRONT BRAKE CALIPER Diagram _very similar as the rear, floating but has TWO PISTONS per each disc..

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

What brake pads you are using?

Sent from my LG-H990 using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

Disc brakes are most effective once bedded and the pads are brushing the rotor with minimal contact. Like above close enough to make instant contact when the brakes are applied but fee enough space wise they do not drag and create friction.

Short story is they appear to be touching but induce minimal friction thus making no heat so to speak.

Two common caliper types are fixed calipers with opposing pistons and floating calipers with a single sided piston.

S2 have both. The front a fixed caliper the rear a floating caliper. The S1 bikes have only floating calipers.

Cleaning: brake cleaner and wide shoe string work great. Apply some hydraulic pressure (caliper off, pads removed), circle the piston as if doing a shoe shine pulling the lace back and forth to clean the debris from the piston(s). If all is well, the piston usually pushes back in by hand. Reassemble and bleed the brakes installing fresh fluid from a new container.

 

[phario]

Many thanks to everybody. I did confirm with the local mechanic that the brakes were rubbing as normal in the rear (but he indicated that it was slightly rubbing excessively in the front, but not worryingly so; so I did clean it out).

One thing that the mechanic confirmed was that the disc brake rubbing was by design. The explained that, due to the travel of the brake lever, if the brake was not rubbing, you would not activate the breaks until well near bottoming out on the levers. I'm not sure that's a satisfactory answer, but at least it some answer. I had wondered why motorcycle brakes are not like bicycle brakes, where the pad does not make contact with the wheel until braking.