New to fz6 need help

[Topher]

Hey guys brand new to motorcycles just got my hands on a 2005 Yamaha FZ6 with 6000 miles on it it hadn't been written a whole lot within the last couple years so I'm having to work on it before I can ride it worked on cars my whole life but this is my first motorcycle. The issue I'm having is the motorcycle starts but I don't think the clutch is engaging as soon as I go to put the motorcycle in first it jerks and then shuts down I can start the motorcycle in first but it moves under its own power even if the clutch is depressed not quite sure where to start I was told the FZ6 did not have clutch fluid it uses the engine oil for that is that correct? Would just tightening the clutch cable fix this? Help please

 

[Motogiro]

welcome to this great forum!

Sounds like the cable may be very stretched. The clutch cable comes with 2 sleeves and there is and adjustment in between the sleeves. as well as at the clutch hand lever and at the clutch actuator lever. These three adjustments should be checked and determine whether the cable is in good enough condition for it's task. The middle adjustment is locate under the tank, tucked away between the airbox and the frame.
I'm sure some of our other tech savvy members will chime in with their knowledge and experience.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Welcome to the forum!

On the right side(as you sit on the bike), you'll see a short lever move when you pull in the clutch lever (or at least it should).

Does that lever move? As noted above you do need the cable adjusted correctly. There should be maybe a little over 5 mm's
free play at the lever.

Just to confirm, its NOT electrical, (clutch safety switch), can you put the bike on the centerstand. Then pull in the clutch, and shift into first
(obviously be very careful doing this) and let the clutch out. Does the engine continue to run (and rear wheel rotate)?

You can also, with the engine off, remove the oil filler cap, look into the engine, pull in the clutch lever and SHOULD see (be able to slightly move) the clutch plates, that they are indeed disengaging...

Something fairly common on the FJR's, not so much here, but the clutch plates, while wet with engine oil, sometimes dry out and stick together. With your bike sitting for so long, the plates could have dried out. The "FIX" for the FJR is to actually remove the fiber plates and soak them in oil. I don't think that's been needed for the FZ6. Ie, After checking the above, change the engine oil with motorcycle specific oil.

It does sound like your clutch is dragging, not fully releasing. Lubing the cable can ONLY help. Yes, its a low mileage bike but the lube (if any) in the cable is probably ELEVEN YEARS OLD and gummed up. That doesn't help the clutch fully release
with limited clutch cable movement..

Please post back what you find..

 

[FinalImpact]

Not enough info but it sounds like plates bonded together. So the lever may pull, the exposed basket hat may move but if the fiber plates are bonded to the steel discs, the clutch does not disengage like mentioned above.

Three fixes come to mind before pulling it apart assuming this is not safety switch related.
Idle to warm it and exercise the clutch repeatedly.
When warm, engine off, hold the clutch in and rock it back and forth until you break the bond.
Ride it holding the clutch in while going up slight inclines. This will require rev matching and depending on where you live comes with risk. One being you dump the bike making a simple turn and not being able to use the clutch.

As said above, on the center stand and with the side stand UP, will it start in gear with the clutch in. If it does, it sounds like discs are bounded and need freed up.

 

[Motogiro]

Another thought is contaminated oil. The friction clearances with a clutch are very tight. I've experienced tight clutch disk clearances from dirty oil when the engine was cold. The oil was near change time but had changed properties and was noticeable when the oil was cold. I changed it and it's never done it again.

 

[Topher]

Good morning guys thanks for replying. So Just as a start when I first got the bike from my friend I drained the gas and the oil completely and changed the filters and put in new fluid and filter before I even started the bike. I do plan to do another quick oil change after about 500 miles or so just to make sure all the crap is out. The shop I went to gave me Suzuki 4 cycle motorcycle engine oil 10w-40 so that's what's in it now. So this morning I put the bike on the center stand and retried all my trouble shooting tips. The bike started on the center stand and shifted into first gear no problem then second and third and so on. However the back tire kept spinning no matter if the clutch was depressed or not. The "actuator" over the oil fill cap does move when I squeeze the clutch in. So is there a way to lube the clutch cable or just shoot wd-40 down the line? Thanks for the help guys

 

[FinalImpact]

So, it starts in gear as long as the clutch is pulled in, yes.
It remains running if in gear clutch in or out, yes.
The clutch lever has strong tension when squeezed but this action does not disconnect the engine from the transmission, true?

All of that implies the steel and fiber friction discs are bonded together.

This happen on both dry and oiled clutches and can be freed by driving them. It just depends if you can get to an open area safely and then drive it without wrecking.

The option is tear it down and pry the discs apart. This often results in damage and subsequent steel and friction replacement.

What are your skills as a rider and is it an option to haul it to a large parking lot or dead end street?
Basically you need a straight stretch where you ride it while holding the clutch in and get on and off the throttle repeatedly. Best choice is on a long straightaway.

** Again this comes with risk** but if good with the throttle you slip into N and come to stop, turn around, push off and drop it into gear. Tho you could easily start it in gear and go. It could break free in minutes and you fix it. It could be very easy!!!
Or it could end badly... just saying!
Be careful!

 

[Topher]

Thanks for all the help guys. Just as an fyi When I first got the bike two weeks ago I emptied out the old gas, oil, and filters and replaced the gas and oil with new. The oil was Suzuki 10w 40 motorcycle oil is what the shop I went to recommended. So this morning I went out and put the bike up on the center stand started it up and put it into first shifted right in and kept running the only problem was the back tire was spinning in first and the clutch was fully depressed. It should be like a car right clutch depressed means the chain should not be giving power to the chain? it shifted no problem went from 1 to 4 without shutting off. So from this I think the clutch is not engaging would I be correct? Stupid question how does one oil the clutch cable properly wd-40? finally the piece the clutch is connected to above the oil fill cap was moving when the clutch was pulled. Thanks for the help guys

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The clutch IS ENGAGED when the lever is released, same as a car.

Re lubing the cable, Don't use WD40, its NOT a lubricant.

Disconnect it at the upper perch (turn in the adjuster for cable play), then pull out the cable with the slots aligned.

You can either drip oil down the cable (as the manual shows), but that's kinda messy and takes forever. If you don't have the proper tool, better than nothing.
If you have a small medical needle and syringe, you can fill that with oil , put it down the sheath and force oil(30 wt is fine) it in..

This tool, clamps around the cable, you use cable lube and it FORCES lube into the cable. Look around, maybe $10.00



If your somewhat mechanically inclined, it's not hard to get the plates out and soak them in oil. There are some markings, (addressed in the shop manual), that need to be aligned but the clutch soak (preferably over night) would definitely get them un-stuck(if they are). You could have a warped plate(not likely) but you can tell without a visual.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________
10:40a, update- Just an FYI and something easy to check.

I just measured the total movement on the "arm / lever" on the engine end of the the clutch cable.

The CENTER of the pin(that attaches the cable to the arm), WITH play, moves a total of approx 5/8" activating the clutch lever at the perch.

Make sure your getting close to that, so we can narrow it down..



.

 

[FinalImpact]

An alternate safer option to break the bond.
Roll bike up to an immovable wall.
Place it in 2nd gear and apply the rear brake firmly.
Make sure bike is straight into wall and bars are straight.
Key on, clutch held inward, hit the starter button a couple times and see if it breaks free.

I say 2nd or 3rd as you do not want it to start or as stated earlier, this could end badly...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates????