New rider, questions on riding technique

[chomorro]

So i have been riding the fz6 for a week now and its A LOT easier to ride then my old zx6r. But im still having trouble areas.

When starting off at a light from a stop on flat ground or a hill I stall out occasionally. I have tried holding the front brake and letting the rear lift then letting the brake go and it works sometimes but others the bike starts bucking. Am i just not giving it enough gas? Im afraid of an accidental burn out, so i gradually increase gas but im not sure its working for me lol.

When going around 55-60mph I have tried ducking under the windshield to see if it will get rid of the wind noise. It actually gets much louder lol, what am i doing wrong?

Im also having trouble smoothly shifting. I shift around 4-6k rpm just put putting along and when i get back on the gas the bike slows dramatically like i was braking (but im not). If i give it more gas then it yanks forward quickly. Havent been able to find the smooth shift, if it even exists.

My bike also makes some very strong engine vibration over 7k at part throttle acceleration. Is this normal? Seems normal but its hard to tell, the engine is very loud at this point.

Whats trail braking?

Anyways i know i will learn this stuff eventually but thought i would ask the pros


2nd set of questions:

First off thanks on the tips about shifting. My shifting is getting smoother by the minute!!!!!

I encountered something new today on the way to work need some tips.

I came to a stop on a hill, i was the first person at the light. As soon as i stopped and put my foot down, half way down the light turned green. I had to put both feet down because the bike started rolling backwards and my toes couldnt hold it. I stalled out and then started and revved it pretty high and took off.

What are you supposed to do in that situation? Just get good enough to start on a hill before you get your bearings down? Im going to practice this tonight lol

3rd set of questions:

Newest questions:

When exiting a driveway to get onto a busy street turning right. Do you go to the middle of the driveway facing forward, then take off and turn the handle bars right? Take off and lean the bike right? Or go out the driveway from the left side of the right driveway lane at an angle to the right and take off sort of straight??

Next, when on the freeway and going around a 50mph bridge turn. Halfway in the turn traffic is stopped. What do you do?? Your not supposed to brake in turns correct? So do you let off the throttle slowly or rear brake slowly? but if its a quick stop because traffic is stopped, ummmmm what do you do?

Thanks for all the help, you guys are making my learning experience much easier, since none of my friends ride.......

Do you guys ever use the bike lane if your making a right turn at the next street?

What i meant is: Say traffic is at a halt at a stop light in front of you about 20 cars deep. You want to turn right at the red light. Do you guys use the bike lane to cruise down past all the stopped cars to turn right?? Or do you just wait in line until its your turn.

I ask because i was told you always split lanes on the drivers side. I dont split lanes yet but using the bike lane wold give you plenty of room in some instances on the right side.

 

[greg]

for hill starts i usually hold the rear brake down, slip the clutch, and give it a bit of power as i release the brake. it may take some time to get a feel for the bike

for changing up a gear, the trick is to change as quickly as possible to stop the revs dropping too much, it should take a split second.

you may also want to experiment with shifting a bit later and higher up in the revs, on a bike you don't generally try to change gear as soon as possible, unlike a car

as for the windnoise, you'll get used to it, that or get a better helmet or earplugs

 

[Jacobien]

What Greg said.

+ Don't be afraid of doing a burn out, unless you rev it past 6k or drop the clutch like a crazy. I have ridden the ZX6 and can tell you that the initial clutch bite vs the FZ6 is alot more severe. (I take no responsibility for you doing a burn out or crashing and indemnify myself completely by attaching this message in brackets)
+ Engine vibration above 7k = have a look at the service history or convert to fully synthetic oil.
+ The FZ6's smooth shifting starts at 4,5k, so keep it above that
+ When doing highway speeds, put your ass as far back as possible and then duck your head behind the screen, this area is like a sweet spot in the FZ6's airflow.

Good luck and enjoy your FZ6!

 

[DownrangeFuture]

Yeah, it's getting louder when you duck because you're moving your head down into the turbulent air coming off the windscreen. The FZ6's windscreen was designed to look good, not really to be functional.

Like they said up there, you need just enough brake to stop the bike from moving. No more than that (rear brake works better for this BTW). Ease the clutch out until the revs just start to drop and add gas. The bucking is probably because you nearly killed the engine, or because the revs were too high (but still bogging) for the speed and you dumped the clutch. Staying on the rear brake a hair longer will smooth that out some, but... With a new bike I'd start all over practicing your clutch work. Remember all those annoying slow speed drills in the MSF basic course? Do those.

BTW the figure 8 box is roughly the size of 1.5 parking spots (normal sized, not SUV super-sized), and the test box for it is about 1.25 spots. I'm sure one of our resident MSF guys could give you the actual feet measurements.

 

[chomorro]

Excellent advice thank you all for the help.

Now that I think about it. I don't think its engine vibration I think its just really loud engine noise and I'm not used to it yet.

 

[fazed_ya]

Use your clutch. Learn how to use the friction zone

 

[Erci]

Shifting will get smoother when your coordination gets better. You're feeling the braking effect because you are rolling off the throttle too early in relation to squeezing the clutch lever. These actions need to happen at the same time. When you get it right, there should be no engine braking at all when you're shifting up.
Next trick is to match the RPM to whatever gear you selected. The closer you match it the smoother the shift will feel. If you're not matching it all that well just yet, release the clutch slower between shifts to smooth things out.
Work on rev matching in general. Try it on downshifts.. ride at 4k rpm, downshift and give the throttle a quick blip and while RPMs are still up, ease out the clutch.
When you get really good at that, work on the same thing, but keep one or two fingers over front brake lever.
It'll make you a better rider over all.

Obviously try to practice all of the above on quiet roads.

Trail braking is dragging your brake(s) into turn. Gently dragging rear brake into turns works well on the street when it comes to controlling speed and minimizing the jerking effect of going from off-throttle to on-throttle.

 

[Motogiro]

When you get so free time. Lets get together for a little ride. We'll talk about these issues, ride and have some laughs.
The FZ6 is known to have a very short friction zone with regard to the clutch and can take a little getting used to. Keeping it lubricated also helps. One of our forum members (Chemiker) makes a cool little lube kit to lube all your cables.
Hook up with me soon. I'm in Mira Mesa area.

 

[chomorro]

Shifting will get smoother when your coordination gets better. You're feeling the braking effect because you are rolling off the throttle too early in relation to squeezing the clutch lever. These actions need to happen at the same time. When you get it right, there should be no engine braking at all when you're shifting up.
Next trick is to match the RPM to whatever gear you selected. The closer you match it the smoother the shift will feel. If you're not matching it all that well just yet, release the clutch slower between shifts to smooth things out.
Work on rev matching in general. Try it on downshifts.. ride at 4k rpm, downshift and give the throttle a quick blip and while RPMs are still up, ease out the clutch.
When you get really good at that, work on the same thing, but keep one or two fingers over front brake lever.
It'll make you a better rider over all.

Obviously try to practice all of the above on quiet roads.

Trail braking is dragging your brake(s) into turn. Gently dragging rear brake into turns works well on the street when it comes to controlling speed and minimizing the jerking effect of going from off-throttle to on-throttle.

Good explanation, im going to practice these techniques everyday after work until they get smoother.

 

[chomorro]

When you get so free time. Lets get together for a little ride. We'll talk about these issues, ride and have some laughs.
The FZ6 is known to have a very short friction zone with regard to the clutch and can take a little getting used to. Keeping it lubricated also helps. One of our forum members (Chemiker) makes a cool little lube kit to lube all your cables.
Hook up with me soon. I'm in Mira Mesa area.

I actually already ordered the cable kit two days ago .

Im looking forward to meeting up with you. I would like you to look at my wiring if you dont mind since your an electrical expert lol. I have all kind of wiring work going on under my seat from the previous owner and i think it needs to be cleaned up, but im not sure.

 

[Motogiro]

I actually already ordered the cable kit two days ago .

Im looking forward to meeting up with you. I would like you to look at my wiring if you dont mind since your an electrical expert lol. I have all kind of wiring work going on under my seat from the previous owner and i think it needs to be cleaned up, but im not sure.

Not a problem on looking at your wiring. Make a time and we'll hook up. Not today though cuz I'm booked.

 

[jmun]

Regarding your stalling- Do a forum search, I just got into riding so my troubleshooting skills are pretty shaky. My bike was stalling way too often to be attributed to my inexperience, turns out my idle from the dealership was set way to low. On occasion when I would pull in the clutch the idle would bounce right to 0 stalling out.
Easy knob to get to, 2 minutes all better,
Good Luck!!

 

[chomorro]

First off thanks on the tips about shifting. My shifting is getting smoother by the minute!!!!!

I encountered something new today on the way to work need some tips.

I came to a stop on a hill, i was the first person at the light. As soon as i stopped and put my foot down, half way down the light turned green. I had to put both feet down because the bike started rolling backwards and my toes couldnt hold it. I stalled out and then started and revved it pretty high and took off.

What are you supposed to do in that situation? Just get good enough to start on a hill before you get your bearings down? Im going to practice this tonight lol

 

[shuckle]

First off thanks on the tips about shifting. My shifting is getting smoother by the minute!!!!!

I encountered something new today on the way to work need some tips.

I came to a stop on a hill, i was the first person at the light. As soon as i stopped and put my foot down, half way down the light turned green. I had to put both feet down because the bike started rolling backwards and my toes couldnt hold it. I stalled out and then started and revved it pretty high and took off.

What are you supposed to do in that situation? Just get good enough to start on a hill before you get your bearings down? Im going to practice this tonight lol

Use both of your brakes. When you get to a stop, put your left foot down and keep your right foot on the rear brake.
When you are ready to get going, keep the rear brake on (so the bike doesn't roll backward) and start as normal, releasing the rear brake as the clutch engages and the bike starts moving forward. This will quickly become second nature.

 

[Erci]

Use both of your brakes. When you get to a stop, put your left foot down and keep your right foot on the rear brake.
When you are ready to get going, keep the rear brake on (so the bike doesn't roll backward) and start as normal, releasing the rear brake as the clutch engages and the bike starts moving forward. This will quickly become second nature.

^ Perfect!

 

[FizzySix]

Takeoff: You'll eventually get used to it. One mod that makes a difference is a 15-tooth front-sprocket, vs. the stock 16. Takes off with more authority, less finessing the clutch and throttle to get moving. Killernoodle (forum member) also makes/sells clutch slave levers that widen the friction zone and make the lever pull very smooth.

Smooth shifting, try this: "preload" the shifter (press upward gently but firmly) before you want to shift. Now quickly dip the throttle slightly, pull in a little on the clutch (here's where that narrow friction zone near the end of the lever travel comes in handy), and firmly click the shift lever up, all at the same time. Unlike your car, you don't need a full clutch pull and slow release with rev-matching, the bike just needs to have the transmission unloaded for a fraction of a second for the next gear to click into place, which is exactly what will happen. The throttle dip and clutch are really more of a smooth "twitch" than anything, just enough to loosen things up. Smooth as silk. Eventually you won't need the clutch at all for going from 2-6 :thumbup:

 

[windsor]

I tried the quick up shift and rolling on the throttle techniques today, made a huge difference in the smoothness of my shifting. Thanks!

 

[chomorro]

Newest questions:

When exiting a driveway to get onto a busy street turning right. Do you go to the middle of the driveway facing forward, then take off and turn the handle bars right? Take off and lean the bike right? Or go out the driveway from the left side of the right driveway lane at an angle to the right and take off sort of straight??

Next, when on the freeway and going around a 50mph bridge turn. Halfway in the turn traffic is stopped. What do you do?? Your not supposed to brake in turns correct? So do you let off the throttle slowly or rear brake slowly? but if its a quick stop because traffic is stopped, ummmmm what do you do?

Thanks for all the help, you guys are making my learning experience much easier, since none of my friends ride.......

 

[Erci]

Newest questions:

When exiting a driveway to get onto a busy street turning right. Do you go to the middle of the driveway facing forward, then take off and turn the handle bars right? Take off and lean the bike right? Or go out the driveway from the left side of the right driveway lane at an angle to the right and take off sort of straight??

Next, when on the freeway and going around a 50mph bridge turn. Halfway in the turn traffic is stopped. What do you do?? Your not supposed to brake in turns correct? So do you let off the throttle slowly or rear brake slowly? but if its a quick stop because traffic is stopped, ummmmm what do you do?

Thanks for all the help, you guys are making my learning experience much easier, since none of my friends ride.......

Driveway exit: don't angle the bike.. come to a stop nice and straight so you can get a good view of the road to your left as you're pulling out, instead of having to look over your shoulder.
This is another place where dragging rear brake from start can be very helpful. Once the road is clear, start moving straight and when you're nice and balanced do a quick countersteer move to dip the bike to the right, start rolling on the throttle and turn the bar to the right. I highly recommend practicing this in a parking lot and not at an actual road entrance from driveway. Very easy to set up. Just make a pretend stop sign line and a pretend lane width you are trying to enter. Practice starting in both directions.

The freeway question: you need to look ahead far enough to not have to make a quick stop when leaned over, but if you ARE in such a situation, do you best to reduce lean angle if situation permits. Once bike is upright you can apply maximum braking. If there is no option to straighten the bike up apply both brakes GENTLY.. if you're not leaned way over and road is in good shape, you won't low side. Just make sure the bike is fully straight before you come to full stop. Ideally though, you need to work on looking as far ahead as possible and setting reasonable entry and exit speed to avoid these situations.

You can also practice for it in a lot by going into a turn and then quickly straightening the bike up and applying maximum braking.

 

[chomorro]

Driveway exit: don't angle the bike.. come to a stop nice and straight so you can get a good view of the road to your left as you're pulling out, instead of having to look over your shoulder.
This is another place where dragging rear brake from start can be very helpful. Once the road is clear, start moving straight and when you're nice and balanced do a quick countersteer move to dip the bike to the right, start rolling on the throttle and turn the bar to the right. I highly recommend practicing this in a parking lot and not at an actual road entrance from driveway. Very easy to set up. Just make a pretend stop sign line and a pretend lane width you are trying to enter. Practice starting in both directions.

The freeway question: you need to look ahead far enough to not have to make a quick stop when leaned over, but if you ARE in such a situation, do you best to reduce lean angle if situation permits. Once bike is upright you can apply maximum braking. If there is no option to straighten the bike up apply both brakes GENTLY.. if you're not leaned way over and road is in good shape, you won't low side. Just make sure the bike is fully straight before you come to full stop. Ideally though, you need to work on looking as far ahead as possible and setting reasonable entry and exit speed to avoid these situations.

You can also practice for it in a lot by going into a turn and then quickly straightening the bike up and applying maximum braking.

Excellent advice. Im going to practice this all morning friday in a parking lot to get the hang of it.